azkaisr Posted February 17, 2007 Share Posted February 17, 2007 Hey all: I have been working on replacing a broken fuel connector and have managed to get all the way through the process of just now having to take out the make end from the hose. Have it clamped upstream and the clamp loosened. For the life of me I am having issues getting the connector loose from the hose. Any tips? PICTURE IS PRIOR TO LOOSENING THE CLAMP Link to comment
hyperion Posted February 17, 2007 Share Posted February 17, 2007 After taking off the bands I had to use a pair of channel locks and crush the barb ends inside the hose. Just make sure to get all of the pieces of plastic out of the hose. I did talk to a couple of dealer techs and they said pretty much the same thing was how they remove them. Link to comment
azkaisr Posted February 17, 2007 Author Share Posted February 17, 2007 Bike is back together and running like a champ! I know you were all concerned Kaisr Link to comment
girlierider Posted February 19, 2007 Share Posted February 19, 2007 My SO just did the quick connects on his LT. Here's what he did: Take a small screwdriver and tweak the hose clamp so it will rotate. Squirt some liquid wrench or WD-40 under it and slide it away from the quick disconnect. Take a smaller screwdriver and insert it between the hose and the QD. Work it in so the end of the screwdriver is as far up in the hose toward the end of the QD hose barb. Squirt in some WD-40 and remove the screwdriver. Take a pair of pliers and rotate the lubed QD in the hose. Pull the QD out. Link to comment
Trinity Posted February 19, 2007 Share Posted February 19, 2007 Excellent suggestion to lube them first. I had to replace one recently and one side broke off flush with the end of the hose. Not being able to budge it with needle nose pliers, I ended up crushing it with pliers and carefully removing the pieces with some handy dandy locking forceps. Link to comment
girlierider Posted February 22, 2007 Share Posted February 22, 2007 He replaced the QD's with metal ones, orderd from MSC Industrial Supply, Part numbers: 88080486 5/16" Hose Barb Shutoff Insert 88080445 5/16" Hose Barb Body (o-rings are included, buy 2 of each) These look just like the OEM plastic ones but you'll really have to try hard to break them. The only problem is they are NOT cheap. The 2 pairs ended up being almost $100 total. Link to comment
Don_Eilenberger Posted February 22, 2007 Share Posted February 22, 2007 I've got these on order also - I know some time ago someone posted a link to source viton O rings for these (and probably the stock plastic) fittings. The cost was WAY less than BMW's cost per O ring. Anyone happen to have that link handy? TIA.. Link to comment
Carnadero Posted February 24, 2007 Share Posted February 24, 2007 Anyone happen to have that link handy? I bought ten -011 Viton o-rings from Marco Rubber for a buck apiece.... Link to comment
Don_Eilenberger Posted February 24, 2007 Share Posted February 24, 2007 Anyone happen to have that link handy? I bought ten -011 Viton o-rings from Marco Rubber for a buck apiece.... And Marco Rubber is? And the size? TIA.. Link to comment
cgdR Posted February 25, 2007 Share Posted February 25, 2007 http://www.mcmaster.com/ 5012K672 Acetal Quick-Disconnect Tube Coupling, Socket For 5/16"TUBE ID,1/4"COUPLER,SHUT-OFF Valve 5012K712 Acetal Quick-Disconnect Tube Coupling, Plug For 5/16"TUBE Id, 1/4"COUPLER, Shut-Off 9464K16 Viton O-Ring, AS568A Dash Number 011 Link to comment
Don_Eilenberger Posted February 26, 2007 Share Posted February 26, 2007 Thanks. Exactly what I needed.. Link to comment
stubble! Posted March 4, 2007 Share Posted March 4, 2007 Thanks for the info here. The MMC disconnects look good. I now have a 100-pack of the o-rings that I am willing to share, all I ask is that you send a SASE. PM for my address. Link to comment
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