Does throttle block need lubing

[bmweerman]

Quick question---

 

While I have got this sucker apart

 

Any kind of lube need to go in here before I put the new throttle cable in?

 

[russell_bynum]

You definitely don't want to use anything that would attract dirt, so a normal grease/oil is out.

 

I dunno...maybe try some of that graphite lube that they use on locks?

[John Dickens]

I used one of the aerosol dry lubricants on mine.

 

http://www.profiproducts.com/profidrylube.html

 

It doesn't leave any liquid or sticky residue.

[Ken H.]

The Bowden box is designed to run dry. As mentioned, I'd be worried about dirt adhesion to any lube causing more problems in the open assembly than it would solve.

[Wooster]

While I'm loathe to offer suggestions counter to the King of Bling (never strike the King unless to ...), I believe there is need for some lube/grease where the fast idle cable enters the box. On my '98 RT, the fast idle cable will stick until I actuate the box's wheel via twist grip; a knowledgable friend asserts I need to lube the plastic ramp where the fast idle cable enters the box. Being lazy, I simply quit using the fast idle lever (until I get more pressing reasons to access box).

 

Wooster, Prince of Procrastination

[GordonB]

IMHO it's the dirt that causes it to stick and fray. Not to mention the Box 'wears'. It's a chep replacement about $20?, why not replace it while you are in there?

[snod]

I have used dry powder type graphite lock lube on mine. 3 times in 115k. The first time I took it appart at about 30k, the fast idle slider was hanging up in the box. That is why I decided to use the graphite. I have had no problems since that disassembly and lube. I cleaned (blow out with air) and lubed again at about 60k, and again last winter at 95k.

[wolcott]

Shortly after buying my '98 RT in the summer of '05, the fast idle lever came out approx. 2" or so and would not retract. I think this was before I had even joined this newsgroup. The Haynes's manual that came with my RT recommended all new throttle cables at 18K. Not knowing any better -(I now know some of you go up to 50K with original cables, though that might be tempting the gods.), I ordered all new throttle cables (3) and a fast idle cable. The mechanic that worked on my bike supposedly had been working on BMW's for over 15 years or so. He recommended that the bowden box (dist. box) be changed, as it was good insurance for the $24 they charged me. If I knew then, what I know now, I would have just changed out the box and the fast idle cable. The mechanic also did not like my valve adjustment and insisted it was not done right- he said he could tell by the sound of the engine. All together it was over a $400 hit with the parts,cables & box installed, TBS, and valve adjustment. It was also my introduction into the expensive world of BMW bikes. Hell, I could even have ridden it like that- I did not know the bike would start with the choke cable hanging out some. Rereading Snod's reply I could probably have taken out box, lubed with some graphite, and readjusted the fast idle cable- or even just replaced the box- only 18K miles on cables at the time.

[E30TECH]

Quick question---

 

While I have got this sucker apart

 

Any kind of lube need to go in here before I put the new throttle cable in?

 

 

I'm not sure about the lube, but I would get that plastic bag out of the sucker.

 

Sorry

[JohnBeaven]

I'm not sure about the lube, but I would get that plastic bag out of the sucker.

Aahh. There is always one in every bunch....

[KDeline]

The Bowden box is designed to run dry. As mentioned, I'd be worried about dirt adhesion to any lube causing more problems in the open assembly than it would solve.

 

I agree with the King..........