2001 BMW R1100 RT Transmission R&R (what else should I do??)

[SWB]

Transmission is out for repair. I'm planning the rest of my repair work while I've got the bike apart. Any suggestions?

 

 

Major in progress:

 

Transmission

Clutch (will replace housing and plates only if scoring, cracks or other damage apparent)

Replace Cables and Bowden box (throttle, th. advance, clutch)

Throwout Bearing (a.k.a. "piston" under 'clutch control" Diag 21_0082, P/N 23 13 1 464 167)

Right footrest plate (fractured; still looking for an affordable used one)

Idle position switch (what about Gear indicator switch; very expensive, but mounted with the idle position switch) plus shaft seal.

Fuel pressure regulator (crushed fuel lines)

 

Minor:

Fuel filter (annual maint).

Throttle bodies - LBB screw, plus all three "O" rings on each

GS intake manifold and cat plug upgrade

Poly V Belt (annual/60K)

Front bearings (58K, plus maybe a bit of play)

Left Cam Chain Tensioner upgrade

 

Other:

Rear/Final drive: Discussing this in a separate thread

Oil, Air Filter, brake R&R and bleed already done

Final drive and Transmission service (oh well) done 1K miles ago.

 

I noticed that the fuel regulator I bought a year ago has two "tabs" with what appear to be twin mounting bolt holes on the fitting that connects to the TB's. Can those tabs simply be broken off and used for the R1100RT model, or is this regulator for an R1150RT, and not interchangable?

 

Drive splines are good on all fittings (3 sets); transmission drive splines were a bit dry, but no rust or corrosion.

 

Feels like I'm missing something; advice appreciated.

 

Thanks.

[Ken H.]

Throwout Bearing (a.k.a. "piston" under 'clutch control" Diag 21_0082, P/N 23 13 1 464 167)

??? This is a R1100RT-P correct? I though all R1100xx had a cable clutch?

I noticed that the fuel regulator I bought a year ago has two "tabs" with what appear to be twin mounting bolt holes on the fitting that connects to the TB's. Can those tabs simply be broken off and used for the R1100RT model, or is this regulator for an R1150RT, and not interchangeable?

If memory serves me correctly (and it may not!) the R1150xx only has a single tab & bolt on each side also.

[Steve W.]

Repair HES harness with teflon insulated wire.

Cheers

Steve

[SageRider]

To my recollection, rarely if ever has the actual gear indicator switch failed. When there have been problems with this circuit, it has been the connector contact at/near the RID.

The Neutral switch (idle switch) on the other hand is a consistant switch contamination issue. The circuit design is such that if the closed switch resistance increases just slightly from 0, neutral will no longer be indicated.

Contact cleaner (that doesn't harm plastic) can be used to improve the switch performance, but I don't know how long that will be effective as when I did my experiment the switch was already off the bike.

I would replace the neutral switch, but only replace the gear indicator switch if there was obvious physical damage or corrosion.