popov1100 Posted November 7, 2006 Share Posted November 7, 2006 Hi everyone, I'm new on this forum, I'm french, and i'm sorry, my english is not very good. I've got a little web site about bmw motorcycle http://popov1100.ath.cx:85 but today i need some help my R1100GS was stolen at 162000km (100 000miles) so i've bought a brocken engine french police R1100RT this is a 1998 r1100rt picture here : http://popov1100.dyndns.org/cpg/thumbnails.php?album=30 the 1998 motor was rebuild with some 1995 parts cylinders cylinders head (with big valves) barrels and camshafts. all this 1995 parts came from and 44000km R1100GS motor. so I've go an R1100RT bike with R1100GS motor. r1100rt have differents throttle body than r1100gs, the angle is not the same 5° for GS, 10° for RT this RT have not catalytic, and not lambda, there is CO Potentiometers but here is my probleme : when i do 0=0 procedure every things works fine, but the idle is near 1800rpm the bypass screw are inefective, close or open this is the same. the tps is set to .370mV no error for the motronic the co is set à 2%, the bike is un-ridable.... if i do an other 0=0 procedure, but instead of .370mV, i set the idle position when the tps is at .230mV, then the idle is near 1100/1200 rpm the bypass screw are effective. 1/2 turn open give 1100rpm 1 turn open give 1200rpm but then the co pot is not fully effective, the co jump from .5% to 2.6% without any values beteen. (i'm thinking my co pot is deffective, i've ask for a new one to my dealer) but the question is : what value in mV shall we use to do 0=0 precedure on R1100GS is it .370mV too. or shall I put a good idle rpm about 1100 with stop screw and bypass screww à 1.5 turn and after ty idle is set, move tps to .370mV without moving the two stop screw ? is it clear ? i hope you understand my problems regards JMD Link to comment
popov1100 Posted November 7, 2006 Author Share Posted November 7, 2006 of course the spark are new, the coil is good, the fuel pump is good and the filter is new Link to comment
ShovelStrokeEd Posted November 7, 2006 Share Posted November 7, 2006 Welcome, I'm not a guru by any means but you are not far off the track here. You should just get the idle speed you need with the stop screws and then set the TPS voltage by loosening the screws holding the TPS and turning that to get the 0.370 volts. When you have done that, you can now attempt to adjust the CO pot. You may find yours is OK or it needs replacement as you indicated. I wouldn't worry too much about an absolute value for the CO, adjust for best driveability although, the world will thank you if you can bring it into specification. Link to comment
ninermatt Posted November 7, 2006 Share Posted November 7, 2006 Honestly,It sounds more like a vacuum leak than a Motronic issue Link to comment
popov1100 Posted November 7, 2006 Author Share Posted November 7, 2006 yes, i've thinked about it the intake manifold are new well mounted, and not leaky i've tested with "start pilot" sprayed on the two manifold i've all ready test for a leaky cylinder head. with crack detection spray. no problem http://popov1100.dyndns.org/cpg//displayimage.php?pos=-3227 i've think the main problem is caused by the difference idle angle between GS and RT throttle body (5° and 10°) does anyone make 0=0 procedure on a R1100GS ? Link to comment
popov1100 Posted November 7, 2006 Author Share Posted November 7, 2006 Welcome, I'm not a guru by any means but you are not far off the track here. You should just get the idle speed you need with the stop screws and then set the TPS voltage by loosening the screws holding the TPS and turning that to get the 0.370 volts. When you have done that, you can now attempt to adjust the CO pot. You may find yours is OK or it needs replacement as you indicated. I wouldn't worry too much about an absolute value for the CO, adjust for best driveability although, the world will thank you if you can bring it into specification. thanks for you advice, i'll try this towmorrow, i'll have the new co potentiometer i'll try to tune it about 2% (generaly this give best drivability). if is's not perfect, i'll set the tps at 0.370mV with out touch stop screw Link to comment
bmwmick Posted November 7, 2006 Share Posted November 7, 2006 JMD, Your English is just fine. I have basically the same engine (08/95 but it's an R1100RT,no CAT and no CO Pot). I would suggest you remove the CO Pot for now. 2% CO is a good value to set it at, after you do the 0=0. You can measure the CO Pot with an Ohmmeter to see if the value of resistance changes in a linear fashion. If so, it's good. I would go back and close the Idle Bleed screws fully, close the throttle plates and start over. With the left side throttle stop screw 'just' touching, loosen the TPS and set it to 0.010V (make sure all the slack is out of the TPS junction in a clockwise direction)and then open the left throttle plate till you see 0.370 between pins 1&4. Next, set the right throttle plate to about the same opening and start the engine and warm it up. With a TwinMax or Carb Stix attached, set the RIGHT side to match the left but do not change the left throttle stop. The idle will be low at this point but you don't care, yet. After you have the throttle plates balanced left to right, use the idle air bleed screws to get 1,100 RPM. After you are all done and happy with the idle, you can reattach the CO POT and adjust for 2% CO. You 'may' have to adjust the bleed screws to keep it around 1,100 RPM. I've done a LOT of 0=0's but never with a CO pot attached. Mick Tucson Link to comment
popov1100 Posted November 7, 2006 Author Share Posted November 7, 2006 JMD, Your English is just fine. thanks I have basically the same engine (08/95 but it's an R1100RT,no CAT and no CO Pot). not exactly the same, cylinder are the same, cylinder head are the same, too but pistons and camshaft are differents (GS one) throttle body are differents to.... but i've got RT throttle body. I would suggest you remove the CO Pot for now. 2% CO is a good value to set it at, after you do the 0=0. You can measure the CO Pot with an Ohmmeter to see if the value of resistance changes in a linear fashion. If so, it's good. I would go back and close the Idle Bleed screws fully, close the throttle plates and start over. With the left side throttle stop screw 'just' touching, loosen the TPS and set it to 0.010V (make sure all the slack is out of the TPS junction in a clockwise direction)and then open the left throttle plate till you see 0.370 between pins 1&4. 0.370 mV between the rear pin and the battery ground; it is the same i think ;-) Next, set the right throttle plate to about the same opening and start the engine and warm it up. With a TwinMax or Carb Stix attached, set the RIGHT side to match the left but do not change the left throttle stop. yes, i've got a twinmax The idle will be low at this point but you don't care, yet. After you have the throttle plates balanced left to right, use the idle air bleed screws to get 1,100 RPM. After you are all done and happy with the idle, you can reattach the CO POT and adjust for 2% CO. You 'may' have to adjust the bleed screws to keep it around 1,100 RPM. I've done a LOT of 0=0's but never with a CO pot attached. Mick Tucson do you ever done 0=0 on R1100GS ? ok, i'll try this procedure without the CO potentiometer. thanks for this indication Link to comment
popov1100 Posted November 7, 2006 Author Share Posted November 7, 2006 what do you think of this http://www.ibmwr.org/r-tech/oilheads/t-screw.shtml particulary step 10 !!! 1800tr idle speed ? Link to comment
Isatis_4CH92 Posted November 7, 2006 Share Posted November 7, 2006 Popov, old fart! Isn't that enough that you polluted each and every french BMW forum with your RT-P problem. Now you jump over the Pont and start annoying people here. Isn't there any place in this world where I can get some peace of mind? BTW Popov did an outstanding job on his Frankenstein RT-P. I would just screw the stop screw down until idle is perfect (and balanced) and then leaving everything else alone, rotate the TPS until I get again 385 mV. Link to comment
popov1100 Posted November 7, 2006 Author Share Posted November 7, 2006 it's look like the bmw world is very small... happy to see your here. i'll do that, soon, i'm waiting for a new co potentiometer, to be sure (easy to test with the CO analyser). finaly, when Willy (my R1100RT) works fine, i'll be a motronic guru too Link to comment
bmwmick Posted November 8, 2006 Share Posted November 8, 2006 do you ever done 0=0 on R1100GS ? ok, i'll try this procedure without the CO potentiometer. thanks for this indication Yes, I've done the 0=0 on several R1100GS's Mick Link to comment
popov1100 Posted November 8, 2006 Author Share Posted November 8, 2006 ok, thanks for this advice i'll try this soon. and i'll tell you the issu Link to comment
John Moylan Posted November 8, 2006 Share Posted November 8, 2006 Stop the lights !! Is that your garage, here? If so, never mind the RT - is that the wheel of a Yamaha GTS1000 I see behind it? If so, I think that's infinately more interesting that than any 0-0 problem ! Oh, I like the 911 too, btw.........and the Duc on the lift......... Isn't it terrible to be an anorak? Link to comment
popov1100 Posted November 8, 2006 Author Share Posted November 8, 2006 pff, it's not exactly a 911, it's a 993 it's a GTS too and the ducati, is a multistrada with a 999 engine a little proto (not ended) but, this is not my garage , this is a very good friend of mine but i can do mechanic in his garage when ever i want there is a lot of good tool, and a fuch dyno. Link to comment
popov1100 Posted November 9, 2006 Author Share Posted November 9, 2006 hi yesterday evening i've done a new 0=0 1.5 turn bypass screw openned the idle run stabilized to 1100 rpm (when engine is warm) then i've read 194mV at the TPS this value seem good for my r1100rt throttle body 10° opening -> standart value 370 to 400mV 5° opening -> 194mV closed -> 8mV i'dont no if the tps is lineary, but this work after this, without touch the stop screw, i've manualy set tps to 350mV all the procedure was done without CO potentiometer a test ride is good, engine is very confortable to ride, no problem (without co pot). now i'll put the CO potentiometer en set CO value to 2% thanks every body for your advice Link to comment
popov1100 Posted April 24, 2007 Author Share Posted April 24, 2007 the bike run now perfectly. the tps was changed too. CO pot + TPS failure no motronic error Link to comment
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