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Any tips on smooth clutch engagement?


Kroref

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Im looking for tips on trying to get rid of the jerk when engaging the hydraulic clutch in the lower gears. I've tried pre loading the shift lever before shifting and diffrent variations of letting out the clutch lever but can not seem to consistently get a smooth engagement. Any suggestions?

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ShovelStrokeEd

Ahhh, smooth shifting. Always a good way to spend a weekend.

 

The BMW clutch, unlike the one on your HD, has a very narrow band from slightly engaged to fully engaged and therin lies the rub.

 

The transmission requires that your movement at your foot be quick and positive to shift without sounding like a tin garbage can 1/2 full of rocks rolling down a hill. The clutch, OTOH requires a very smooth, yet positive, move to allow easy engagement. The light flywheel effect on the boxer motor just makes things all the worse.

 

OK, so how do you get those smooth shifts that won't spill your latte in the cup holder hanging off your left bar?

 

First, don't pull the clutch all the way to the bar. It is not needed and provides too much "free play" in the engagement process. You may wish to consider adjusting the wheel on your clutch lever so that you have to pull right to the bar to get full disengagement as your hand has the best control and the most strength when it is nearest to a fist.

 

Second, don't back off the throttle so much. You need only the merest flick of off throttle to accomplish a shift. No need to go all the way off and then find the point at which you really need to be for perfect engagement of the next gear. See the comment about "free play" above.

 

In fact, as a start to your gradual improvement, I would suggest you eliminate one of the two controls altogether. Either learn to shift without the clutch which will quickly teach you how little you need to back off the gas or learn to shift without backing off the throttle at all which will teach you how little clutch lever movement is actually needed. From there, you will quickly learn to combine the two techniques and you can arrive at your destination unstained by spilled beverage and proceed down the road in the stately fashion you first imagined when you bought a BMW.

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As always, I like what Ed had to say. His advise has proved to be solid every time.

If I may, allow me to add this.

You haven't stated how long you've had your RT, so I'll assume not very. It may help for you to practice shifting with the fast idle lever (choke) up on the first notch. This way, the butterflies won't slam shut when you crack the throttle for a shift. Once you start to get a feel for all the movements required during a shift, you can eliminate the fast idle, & progress on to normal operation.

Hope this helps.

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I noticed your other bike was an H-D. If you ride your Harley like my brother rides his you probably short shift more often than not. In other words, you don't ever really wind the rpms on up toward redline before you shift. The H-D motor handles this just fine but the boxer likes to be revved. I wind it up to 4/4.5k (or higher) before I shift most of the time and with the great advice above I think in time you will get the hang of it. Good Luck

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Thank you for the feedback, it makes sense. I have a ride Sunday morning down to the border and will diligently apply your suggestions.

I've had the RT about two months and been shifting that old HD 3 speed hand shift/foot clutch so long (20+) I'm having to learn all over again. dopeslap.gif

Thanks again!

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I've had the RT about two months and been shifting that old HD 3 speed hand shift/foot clutch so long (20+) I'm having to learn all over again. dopeslap.gif

Thanks again!

Holy cow, a suicide clutch?!? eek.gif

Please forgive me for for telling you how to shift a motorcycle. dopeslap.gif

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I noticed your other bike was an H-D. If you ride your Harley like my brother rides his you probably short shift more often than not. In other words, you don't ever really wind the rpms on up toward redline before you shift. The H-D motor handles this just fine but the boxer likes to be revved. I wind it up to 4/4.5k (or higher) before I shift most of the time and with the great advice above I think in time you will get the hang of it. Good Luck

 

This is almost verbatim what a BMW mechanic told me. He said the boxers 'like to rev'.

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ShovelStrokeEd

Just a little addendum in support of the revs thing.

 

Your HD has a red line of about 5000 RPM, maybe a little higher. The red zone on the BMW tach is up around 8000 RPM. Just work the percentages and you'll see that if you were shifting the HD at around 2500, you should be shifting the Beemer at 4000 or so but that is really more about getting the transmission to shift at all without crunches and grinds. Avoiding helmet knocking and having your feet come up off the pegs as your head hovers over the passenger area is more about clutch and throttle control.

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The hand-shift-foot-clutch thing wasn't "suicide" from the factory. The foot-clutch was spring-loaded but balanced with another spring-the hot rodders of the day would remove the balancing spring and then they were just like a clutch pedal in a car. Stock-you could dis-engage the clutch and put your foot on the ground for balance;modified-if you took your foot off of the suicide clutch,then the clutch would engage and away you went. The nice part on the stock setup was you could partially engage the clutch so it would sorta slip and you could control your speed with your right hand and you still had both feet to paddle the ground-if needed during slippery conditions. The other fun thing was the front brake lever was on the left handlebar so everyone thought that was the clutch lever and that you had no front brake. All in all-I'm glad I'm riding my RT now instead of my old tank-shifter.

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Just got back from the ride and just wanted to thank you guys again for your input. Using everyones suggestions, My shift engagement improved dramaticly. I figure that with another couple 300 mile practice runs I should be able to utilize that "shiftin smooooth" latte cup holder. thumbsup.gif

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