Redbrick Posted November 3, 2006 Share Posted November 3, 2006 Where to mount the block on a 1200RT and which brand of block to buy ? Will run Gerbings and Motolites only ...Not and electronic farkles (yet, anyway)......Done the search in archives....Any new comments appreciated.... Phil......Redbrick Link to comment
JR356 Posted November 3, 2006 Share Posted November 3, 2006 Hi, If only running those two items,consider doing without the block,just wire directly to battery,you won't get any canbus faults. Blue Seas fuseblock,Touratech canbus helper or Centech AP-1 fuse panel are your 3 main options,if you go with a fusepanel. Can't help with mounting options on your RT,I ride an 05 GS. JR356 Link to comment
Rocket_Cowboy Posted November 3, 2006 Share Posted November 3, 2006 I've used the Bluesea block on my previous bike, and will be adding a Bluesea block to my RT next week if all goes well. I think the Centech is a little smaller, but I've got experience with the Bluesea so I'll just keep using what's worked. Link to comment
ericfoerster Posted November 3, 2006 Share Posted November 3, 2006 I second the motion on the Blue Sea fuse block I like the size as it is very easy to work with and the fuses are easy to see and replace as needed. Link to comment
Mike05 Posted November 3, 2006 Share Posted November 3, 2006 I'll be adding a Centech AP-1 to my R1200RT this month. Also, Angel (from this board) has the Bluesea fuse block. Together we're planning to do some "add-on" wiring, as in fuse block(s), routing the wires and anything else that comes up. I'm setting up for GPS, V1 Radar Detector & lights. Have the manual so tupperware & gas tank are coming off to do it right. Big thanks to Limecreek & Ken for getting me to the point I'd even try this. Angel knows his way around this stuff so you won't have to rely on my limited knowledge. Anyone wants to join in is welcome; I live in the Dallas area. Haven't set a specific date yet. Mike05 Link to comment
Limecreek Posted November 3, 2006 Share Posted November 3, 2006 I have a Blue Sea under the seat. It powers, Gerbings, PIAAs, and auxillary socket. And..I have a Centech in the tankbag. It powers, V1, XM Roady, 276C. Link to comment
Ken H. Posted November 3, 2006 Share Posted November 3, 2006 Eric, Greg, Clearly you don't have enough electrical farkles on those bikes yet. Your Blue Sea blocks are way too empty. Get with the program! Link to comment
Rocket_Cowboy Posted November 3, 2006 Share Posted November 3, 2006 Anyone wants to join in is welcome; I live in the Dallas area. Haven't set a specific date yet. Definitely interested! I haven't started taking bodywork off and what not yet, so happy to help and learn all at the same time. Link to comment
Albert Posted November 3, 2006 Share Posted November 3, 2006 Ken, I salute you!! You have indeed obviously earned the moniker "King of Bling". Link to comment
Limecreek Posted November 3, 2006 Share Posted November 3, 2006 Ken they have special cessation programs for just this kind of thing. Let me know if you need their number...it's completely confidential. Link to comment
Marty Hill Posted November 3, 2006 Share Posted November 3, 2006 The only problem with Ken's bike is when he rides thru a small town...all the lights dim till he leaves. Link to comment
Jim VonBaden Posted November 3, 2006 Share Posted November 3, 2006 I have a Blue Seas on my 12GS currently, but am going with the Centech now. It is much smaller, and easier to fit in the lack of space on the GS. We are having an electrical tech day on the 11th in Thurmont, MD, about 70 miles north of DC, specifically for the wiring of the 12GS/RT/can bus bikes. click here for information Jim Link to comment
Albert Posted November 7, 2006 Share Posted November 7, 2006 Ken, I am planning on getting a little more electrified this winter so I'm wondering about your setup. I'm assuming you power the fuse block with some sort of relay? Can you elaborate a little on which one you used and where you pull keyed power from? Thanks in advance. Link to comment
Ken H. Posted November 8, 2006 Share Posted November 8, 2006 Here's the complete schematic for my add ons. The fuse block is always powered. Items that I want to be powered on regardless of the bike's state, are connected directly to it. As are the connectors for our heated clothing, because the "auto power off" so to speak when you get off the bike. (Either because you remembered to disconnect the cord as you walk away, or even if you didn't! ) The aux. lights also power directly from there as they have their own relay that triggers them on from the low beam circuit. (Unless I then cancel them with the aux. latch off circuit shown.) Similar with the Stabel compact air horn. It has power always to it from the fuse block, but has its own relay from the bike's horn circuit. Other items that I want to power on and off from the bike are connected to a Touratech TPS-15 that is triggered on and off from the rear aux. socket wire. These items come on when the bike starts and go off at the end of the time-out period for the aux. socket when the bike is shut down. The heated seats are powered via the fuse block but their separate relay is triggered from the TPS-15. I had to do it this way as the total rating of the TPS-15 is 15 Amps and the two heated seats plus the other stuff is over that. Link to comment
jstone Posted November 11, 2006 Share Posted November 11, 2006 About to install the AP1 after a very cold ride from MI to Potosi Falling Leaf - the Gerbing worked for 14 minutes then quit on my 05R1200RT. Can I disconnect the wires on my rear BMW plug and go direct to the AP1 for future Gerbing use? I'm worried about the cambus and its reaction to any changes I make,I don't know where the aft plug is connected to the cambus system yet, but it doesn't carry enough amps to do much of anything. Link to comment
Limecreek Posted November 11, 2006 Share Posted November 11, 2006 Connecting your rear socket directly to the battery will solve your Gerbing problem. As a bonus the modification enables the use of a standard battery charger. Link to comment
Ken H. Posted November 11, 2006 Share Posted November 11, 2006 It will work fine, the bike CAN-BUS system will never know it's gone. But personally I don't like the idea of running heated clothing through accessory plugs in general. They are often not up to the current requirements long term. Better to directly wire the Gerbing connector in my opinion. Link to comment
jstone Posted November 12, 2006 Share Posted November 12, 2006 Thanks for the feedback - about to check the Gerbing site to find out how many amps the jacket draws before I proceed, although I've spent the $60 to get the AP1 and hope to use it - I believe the fuses can be upgraded. Found it: Specifications Heat GHC High Density Heat Source 12-volts DC Current 6.4 amps Watts 77 watts Surface Temp 135°F +/- 5°F at 32°F Link to comment
Jim VonBaden Posted November 13, 2006 Share Posted November 13, 2006 It will work fine, the bike CAN-BUS system will never know it's gone. But personally I don't like the idea of running heated clothing through accessory plugs in general. They are often not up to the current requirements long term. Better to directly wire the Gerbing connector in my opinion. Agreed! We just had a tech day in which 6 hexheads a cruiser and a K1200GT got fuse blocks, and we added a total of 6 sets of driving lights as well. No issues at all. Jim Link to comment
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