Question on tire markings

[WildR1150RT]

I was visiting a diffrent board and saw this question, No one could give the man a answer so I figured I would post it here-

 

"Time to change tires. My original rear BT-020 that came with the R1200RT are toast after less than 5K stick to the road miles. Now it's time to replace them. I browsed around tire sellers and discovered that there are BT-020s and there are BT-020 OEMs. Can someone explain why there are two different classifications, one listed in the charts as OEM, one listed in the charts without the OEM designation, each has the same tread, same size, but different price. "

 

Any answers would be appriciated..

[Guest]

I was visiting a diffrent board and saw this question, No one could give the man a answer so I figured I would post it here-

 

"Time to change tires. My original rear BT-020 that came with the R1200RT are toast after less than 5K stick to the road miles. Now it's time to replace them. I browsed around tire sellers and discovered that there are BT-020s and there are BT-020 OEMs. Can someone explain why there are two different classifications, one listed in the charts as OEM, one listed in the charts without the OEM designation, each has the same tread, same size, but different price. "

 

Any answers would be appriciated..

 

I've run into this before on other bikes. Generally, the OEM version of a tire is modified specifically for the OEM. In my experience, they last longer than the non-OEM tire.

[csapp05]

I know in the Porsche world OEM tires are sized and weighed to Porsche specs, and generally the tires (marked N1, N2, etc) are more expensive because they confirm to all the specifications (overall diameter, sidewall width, ply rating and load rating, etc) with precise tolerances. Check the speed ratings as well! If I remember right they were $20-$25 more per tire...