FD Oil Change R1200 RT or GS

[gjnockie]

I have been reading with much interest the posts concerning the changing of the FD oil in the so called sealed for life FD units.

 

I wonder.. why not drive the bike to heat up the oil and then suck it out? With a good suction pump you should be able to get most of it out?

 

It just seems easier than taking half the bike apart.

 

I used to do this on cars in the 60's since most rear wheel drive cars did not have drains on rear end.

 

Your thoughts and comments would be appreciated.

 

Gjnockie

2005 R1200 RT

Boynton Beach Florida

[Lawman]

I have been reading with much interest the posts concerning the changing of the FD oil in the so called sealed for life FD units.

 

I wonder.. why not drive the bike to heat up the oil and then suck it out? With a good suction pump you should be able to get most of it out?

 

It just seems easier than taking half the bike apart.

 

I used to do this on cars in the 60's since most rear wheel drive cars did not have drains on rear end.

 

Your thoughts and comments would be appreciated.

 

Gjnockie

2005 R1200 RT

Boynton Beach Florida

 

If you do it that way you'll probably miss getting all the torx tools out.

[steve.foote]

That's a pretty good idea, Gjnockie. It's possible that there is not enough clearance between the ring gear and the FD housing to get a tube down to the bottom. But, if there is clearance, I can't see any reason why it wouldn't work. It sure would make it a lot easier.

[Jim VonBaden]

That's a pretty good idea, Gjnockie. It's possible that there is not enough clearance between the ring gear and the FD housing to get a tube down to the bottom. But, if there is clearance, I can't see any reason why it wouldn't work. It sure would make it a lot easier.

 

Judging by the very slow fill rate, I suspect you would have a hard time getting a tube in far enough.

 

It has even been suggested that you heat the oil before trying to fill the FD. It took me 20 minutes, about, to fill my FD with just .22 liters.

 

Jim

[IanW]

I think you will find the normal oil level is above the plug so filling from this plug is not possible. I used a "A" frame and a block and tackle to raise the bike to almost verticle (after removing the amall front mudguard) and drained the oil.

It is then a simple matter of removing the muffler and rear wheel and replacing the oil with a syringe through the speedo sensor hole.

Ian

[Jim VonBaden]

I think you will find the normal oil level is above the plug so filling from this plug is not possible. I used a "A" frame and a block and tackle to raise the bike to almost verticle (after removing the amall front mudguard) and drained the oil.

It is then a simple matter of removing the muffler and rear wheel and replacing the oil with a syringe through the speedo sensor hole.

Ian

 

Wow, sounds like a scarey way to do it, and one the average person couldn't do at home with regular tools.

 

Notice in this picture that the oil is coming out, and I had not swung the swing arm down yet.

 

 

Jim

[MarcS]

Why would you do it like this, vs, Jim vonBaden's method?

[IanW]

Why would you do it like this, vs, Jim vonBaden's method?

The brakes and final drive do not need to be touched, it is not as scarry as it sounds if you have the normal gear you would use for removing a car engine, it takes two people, one just holds the bike by the handlebars while it is up.

Ian

[IanW]

Why would you do it like this, vs, Jim vonBaden's method?

When I think a little more the bike may not have to be raised very far in the rear to fill it with the correct amount of oil.

Ian