KMG_365 Posted October 21, 2003 Share Posted October 21, 2003 It just occurred to me that perhaps I should have posted a walk-through on removing the tank first--since both the brake bleeds posted so far require the tank be removed. First, take the Tupperware off. I did not take any pictures of this step, but we'll walk you through it and I think you'll see that it is pretty self explanitory. The 1150RT now only uses two sized screws: short and long. The extra long screws on the 1100's dash are gone. There are three long ones into the footpeg plates on each side, and one long one behind each of the mirror pods (that's a total of eight). The rest are all short. As long as you don't put any of the long ones in the tank (DANGER!), you'll be fine. Remove the side bags and then the black plastic fairing panels. Be careful of the plastic post on the side of the plastic fairing panels, it can snap off if you're not a bit careful here. For the port side with the lifting handle, pull up part-way on the handle as you pull the top of the panel away and work the panel up and off gently. Try a dab of grease or vaseline on the post and/or the rubber grommet to make it easier next time (when re-installing, I wrap index and middle fingers around the panel on either side of the back of the grommet then press in on the front of the panel directly over the post with my thumb). The side mirrors are held on by three posts that insert into metal flanges (with wire ring clips) which grab and hold the posts. The mirrors are removed by standing next to the bike, facing the mirror pod, and holding the underside of the mirror in your fore-hand and striking straight forward sharply on the top-outside edge with the heel of your aft-hand (the first time is weird, but you get used to the technique quickly). The turn signal bulb/socket is a 1/3-CCW turn and pull to remove. Four short screws hold the belly pan--notice the two front tabs and the two side tabs (you'll need that info for re-installation). Don't forget the two screws above the cylinder heads, the two deep inside behind the header pipes and the one in the nose cone on each side. For these screws a 3mm hex power bit and a long (6") 1/4" hex extension will be well worth the investment. If you can't find a 3mm power bit, try the killer UnRally sponsor: Cycle Gadgets! Lastly, there is one plastic, beveled and notched, 1/4-turn screw on the trailing edge of each large T-ware panel. Turn this screw 1/4 turn and pull the rear of the panel away. Grab the panel at the rear of the tank with one hand and at the front of the tank with the other. Lift the top edge of the panel up and off of the ridge on the trim piece running down the middle of the tank. Then grab the panel at the nose (or above the cylinder) with one hand and at the rear of the tank with the other, tilt the front of the panel down freeing the tab that inserts into the nose cone, then pull the whole panel away to the side. Now you can remove the tank. You did run the fuel way down or siphon it out first, right? It'll save your back, and if you're doing the fuel filter swap too, well . . . . Remember I told you it was a good idea to drain the tank. Remove the bolt at the rear of the tank and catch the nut on the back side. Unplug the two vent lines. it is a good idea to mark one on either side of the connector or leave one male and one female so you don't get them mixed up. Remove the two quick disconnect fuel line connectors by depressing the silver button fully, and pulling apart. You'll notice these go in opposite directions also, so you can't mix them up. Remove the wiring harness connector by squeezing the tabs on the sides and wiggling side to side untill free. Remove the conical plastic covered nut on the inside of the radio/glovebox with a 9mm box-end wrench. Remove the (3mm hex) screw at the rear, top of the glovebox. Remove the (4mm) bolt at the rear, bottom. Remove the (4mm) bolt at the front of the glovebox, which also secures the air intake scoop. Here's a detail shot of the clip/nut this bolt inserts into (it will slip down the cable and you'll be looking for it later ). Remove the (3mm) screw tucked back on the inside of the glovebox. Release the sparkplug wire from the clip on the air intake scoop. Pull the air scoop away from the bike. Pull the glovebox away from the bike. What? You've still got a radio in there? (Whatever for? ) Then you might use a large zip tie or two to support its weight and hang it from the frame so as not to damage the wires. Lift up on the rear of the tank first and then pull the tank back and up to remove it. (no pic, sorry ) Note how the two slots in the molded tank slide onto the rubber bumpers on either side of the frame. Be sure not to dislodge these bumpers while doing work on the bike with the tank off. Set the tank on an old towel or dropcloth. It should look something like this: You're done! If your bike's got some miles on it, or if you notice an oily film on the starboard side on top of the engine, or especially if someone has replaced the throttle cables (like at a Tech Daze ), take a look at the breather hose and verify that it is undamaged. We found Leslie's was missing its clamp at the airbox and had a rather large hole near that end. This is the same breather hose responsible for dumping all that oil back into your airbox from all those times you over-filled your oil before you learned how to check the level properly! And it'll make a mess on your engine if it's leaking. Make sure you check that airbox drain on the port side, rear, underneath the airbox. It is a 1/3 turn and pull (just like the oil filler plug, but upside down, of course), but have a styrofoam coffee cup or similar handy when you pull it out. I've seen folks, who've been thinking their bike's using a lot of oil, drain over 6 ounces (almost 200ml!) of oil out of the airbox. This oil/air mixture is not that good for the motor if it gets re-aspirated into the intake. Coming soon: Changing the Fuel Filter! ( ooooh . . . . aaaaaaaah . . . . ) Link to comment
RichEdwards Posted October 21, 2003 Share Posted October 21, 2003 Great walk-thru and excellent for those ignorant about such things (like me!) Link to comment
David Posted October 21, 2003 Share Posted October 21, 2003 Goodness gracious! We are going to have to start calling you Mr. Goodwrench! Good work. We'll add them all to FAQ, if that's okay with you. Link to comment
brinkjm Posted October 21, 2003 Share Posted October 21, 2003 Remove the (3mm hex) screw at the rear, top of the glovebox. Nice DUCT TAPE. Jamie and Leslie - Wonderfully detailed descriptions and excellent photographs. This is good stuff, much better than the factory service manual! Do you guys want second jobs writing technical manuals for emission testing equipment? Thank you for taking the time to document these procedures so that many more can learn. We've got to make sure this stuff gets in the R-Bike Archives to preserve it for future generations! Link to comment
Mark Tuttle Posted October 21, 2003 Share Posted October 21, 2003 Jamie and Leslie, your series of "walk throughs" with the photos have been terrific. Thanks for taking the time to document the procedures. David, I'm probably naive, but is it feasible to turn articles like this into PDFs so that the inquisitive yet mechanically challenged can download them and print them? Starting, of course, with how to stuff a million t-shirts into ziplock bags Link to comment
fnyrt Posted October 21, 2003 Share Posted October 21, 2003 I created a pdf with it but even zipped it is too big to post (409k) Link to comment
Zip Posted October 21, 2003 Share Posted October 21, 2003 David, I'm probably naive, but is it feasible to turn articles like this into PDFs so that the inquisitive yet mechanically challenged can download them and print them? Starting, of course, with how to stuff a million t-shirts into ziplock bags You can do that now. You don't need a downloadable pdf or other type file. Drag your mouse over the text and pictures to highlight all, hit "edit" "copy," then open a new Word document, and paste it all into the document. Save the document for future reference. I've been doing that with all these helpful articles. The color pictures show up in the documents, too, and of course you can print the articles anytime you want. take care, Link to comment
Tub Posted October 21, 2003 Share Posted October 21, 2003 Jamie If you ever put these articles on a CD, I would gladly purchase a copy of the CD. Great work! Tub Link to comment
JerryMather Posted October 21, 2003 Share Posted October 21, 2003 Jamie- Are you coming with your camera to shot pictures of my spline lube during the Tech Day also? Link to comment
Mark Tuttle Posted October 21, 2003 Share Posted October 21, 2003 David, I'm probably naive, but is it feasible to turn articles like this into PDFs so that the inquisitive yet mechanically challenged can download them and print them? Starting, of course, with how to stuff a million t-shirts into ziplock bags You can do that now. You don't need a downloadable pdf or other type file. Drag your mouse over the text and pictures to highlight all, hit "edit" "copy," then open a new Word document, and paste it all into the document. Save the document for future reference. I've been doing that with all these helpful articles. The color pictures show up in the documents, too, and of course you can print the articles anytime you want. take care, When I've tried that I get all of the text and none of the pictures. Link to comment
Sean Posted October 21, 2003 Share Posted October 21, 2003 Remove the wiring harness connector by squeezing the tabs on the sides and wiggling side to side untill free. Jamie, Let me suggest one addendum, to keep this accurate with what many of us do: "Remove the wiring harness connector by squeezing the tabs on the sides and wiggling side to side untill free. When it doesn't come apart, wiggle it harder, until the plastic backing breaks and/or the metal tab gets all bent up. Once the connector is free, Dremel off that stupid metal tab." I think at least half of us end up breaking this tab just trying to get this darn connector apart! Jamie, VERY NICE WORK on the documentation! You're providing a wealth of knowledge to everyone here. Link to comment
russell_bynum Posted October 21, 2003 Share Posted October 21, 2003 Once the connector is free, Dremel off that stupid metal tab BTDT. I was actually considering some sort of mild explosive until I remembered the Dremel with the cutoff wheel. Link to comment
Stan Compton Posted October 21, 2003 Share Posted October 21, 2003 Jamie and Leslie, Your procedures with pictures is about the best information I have found on this board. Please don't stop producing these. I know it must take a lot of time, but it is sooooo helpful to all of us. Link to comment
Ralph Posted October 22, 2003 Share Posted October 22, 2003 Thanks for the pictures & walk through. BTW...Is that BMW authorized Duck tape? Will it void your warranty? Link to comment
brinkjm Posted October 22, 2003 Share Posted October 22, 2003 I use only OEM BMW Duck Tape on my duck... <--------- See Avitar BTW...Is that BMW authorized Duck tape? Link to comment
RayG Posted April 13, 2005 Share Posted April 13, 2005 Had to remove my battery today. I knew I had one more fastener behind the mirror to remove the left panel but was not sure how to remove without breaking it. Thanks very much for the procedure. Link to comment
Reddog99 Posted April 13, 2005 Share Posted April 13, 2005 Great pics & walk-thru Jamie. But did you know that it's unnecessary to remove the glovebox & forward air scoop? It'll save a little work to just leave that stuff on the tank. Pat Link to comment
Mark K Posted April 14, 2005 Share Posted April 14, 2005 Fantastic step-by-step and just in time! I planned on attempting this very operation over the weekend. What an asset this board is!! Link to comment
KMG_365 Posted April 14, 2005 Author Share Posted April 14, 2005 . . . did you know that it's unnecessary to remove the glovebox & forward air scoop? It'll save a little work to just leave that stuff on the tank. Hi Pat! No, I didn't know about that at that time (boy, I haven't seen this thread in awhile! ). Personally, we have our radio boxes stuffed with the Kenwood bike-to-bike radios and the wiring needs to be disconnected to separate the two. I also didn't know then that you don't have to fully remove the bolt at the front of the rear air scoop (it's got a slot at the front that just slides out ). There are so many things I've learned since posting these early walk-throughs. I really should re-do them as some of the great info added by others as responses to the threads might be lost when the threads auto-delete. Link to comment
philbytx Posted April 14, 2005 Share Posted April 14, 2005 Jamie and Leslie...You are the BEST ...THANK YOU Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.