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K12RS Oil/filter/fluid change - how?


hcmiller92

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For whatever reason, I'm unable to dig anything up that talks about the procedure for changing the oil, filter and tranny fluid on the K12RS. I know it requires removal of Tupperware. Whenever I do a search, I get about 250 unresponsive results. Can someone kindly point me to a good thread on the subject? I've had the bike 10 days and want to do the maintenance myself.

 

Thank you!

 

Curt

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Glad you found Pirate's "how to"...IMHO, it's an excellent summary. I recommend ordering a couple of oil change kits (BMW filter + o-rings + crush washers) from Bob's BMW...saved me about 40% (even after shipping) over what my local dealer was charging. wink.gif While you're ordering, you also might want to order a few extra fairing fasteners + nylon washers. Those bad boys have a tendency to drop into black holes in the garage universe. <DAMHIKT>

 

As far as the tranny fluid change, it's super easy, but the drain plug is a difficult to find size (about 14mm hex as I recall). You can find it in a set of 3 at your local Autozone for under $10. It's not Snap-on quality, but hopefully you won't be needing it THAT often.

 

One further tip is to switch tranny fluid to Red Line Heavy Duty shock proof (if you haven't already made the switch to synthetic). It made a night-and-day positive difference in the way the K-bike shifted. ("...like buttah'...")

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Glad you found Pirate's "how to"...IMHO, it's an excellent summary. I recommend ordering a couple of oil change kits (BMW filter + o-rings + crush washers) from Bob's BMW...saved me about 40% (even after shipping) over what my local dealer was charging. wink.gif While you're ordering, you also might want to order a few extra fairing fasteners + nylon washers. Those bad boys have a tendency to drop into black holes in the garage universe. <DAMHIKT>

 

As far as the tranny fluid change, it's super easy, but the drain plug is a difficult to find size (about 14mm hex as I recall). You can find it in a set of 3 at your local Autozone for under $10. It's not Snap-on quality, but hopefully you won't be needing it THAT often.

 

One further tip is to switch tranny fluid to Red Line Heavy Duty shock proof (if you haven't already made the switch to synthetic). It made a night-and-day positive difference in the way the K-bike shifted. ("...like buttah'...")

 

Thanks, Byron for the great tips. I'll order up the parts at your suggestion.

 

I'm all for synthetics...been using them for years. I read, though, that with the K-bikes there's concern that using synthetic in the engine will exacerbate the engine's propensity for leaking out the seals. Is this really an issue? confused.gif

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Curt,

 

Next month we're moving to Saratoga and by next spring I hope to host a tech days. We'll try to cover more good stuff. The oil change isn't so bad but the big trick is having the right tool for the filter.

 

Never heard of synthetic making the seals break down. They leak without outside help sometimes.

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One further tip is to switch tranny fluid to Red Line Heavy Duty shock proof (if you haven't already made the switch to synthetic). It made a night-and-day positive difference in the way the K-bike shifted. ("...like buttah'...")

 

Went to their website. I assume this is the lube: "Heavy ShockProof™." (They also have SuperLight and Lightweight) Can this also be used in the final drive? Looks like a good product and so do their synthetic engine oils. Where do you get them?

 

Curt

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I'm all for synthetics...been using them for years. I read, though, that with the K-bikes there's concern that using synthetic in the engine will exacerbate the engine's propensity for leaking out the seals. Is this really an issue?

 

Pure Myth.

 

It still hangs on from the time of the introduction of synthetic oils. It never did "break down" oil seals, but many vehicles developed oil leaks. That's because oils like the first Mobile 1 were 5W-30 engine oil, and actually, way, way, thinner "naturally" than that (closer to 0W). It was thin enough to get through the old seals in existing vehicles. New vehicles and heavier weight oils, and no problem. Today even in vehicles with old seals, it's still no problem because seal technolgy has changed across those 40 years.

 

If a BMW leaks oil it's because the seal failed or was installed incorrectly - not because synthetic oil was used.

 

BMW likes us to use 10W-40 to 20W-50 in the engine (synthetic or not), and approximately 90W in the transmission and rear drive unit. I've used Mobile 1 of those weights in the engine, but now use Shell Rotela 5W-40 in all my motorcycles. I only use BMW's synthetic 90W-140 (or 70W-140, I forget which they call it) in gear boxes and final drives since it's commonly available, more expensive than some and less expensive than others, and as good or better than everything else, and again, in all my motorcycles.

 

No oil leaks in any of them. 500,000 miles, no leaks.

 

Even in the BMW's grin.gif

 

Pure Myth.

 

Best wishes.

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<snip>

I've used Mobile 1 of those weights in the engine, but now use Shell Rotela 5W-40 in all my motorcycles. I only use BMW's synthetic 90W-140 (or 70W-140, I forget which they call it) in gear boxes and final drives since it's commonly available, more expensive than some and less expensive than others, and as good or better than everything else, and again, in all my motorcycles.

 

No oil leaks in any of them. 500,000 miles, no leaks.

 

Even in the BMW's grin.gif

 

Pure Myth.

 

Best wishes.

 

Thanks, Dick, for your comments. I believe I will switch over to synthetic. In my Japanese bikes I was using Mobil 1 15-50. I just changed the oil im my K12RS to Rotella 15-40, not realizing the 5-40 was synthetic. Now I know better. The only concern I have is that it's SAE40 at the top end, and some people said it won't protect the engine over 86 degrees ambient temp.

 

I'm a bit confused by the forgoing because in a liquid-cooled bike, regardless of ambient temp, the cooling system will keep the oil at a certain temp anyway. My engine temp will remain the same whether it's 40 degrees out or 100, controlled by the thermostat. I also understand that the viscosity indexers in Rotella keep the 40 at 40, whereas with other brands, the top end might fall considerably. Is the SAE40 top end of Rotella of concern to you? I see you live in CA and must experience highh temps.

 

Thank you,

Curt

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