Of Parrots and the Pacific-A CA Ride Tale with Pix

[AdventurePoser]

First, there was the bad news: I didn’t get the job promotion I was shooting for. Then, there was the good news. Not getting the job (which in retrospect was a dubious promotion) suddenly freed up a week. With The Lovely Flame’s permission, I eagerly packed up my Y2K Honda VFR and decided to head north, hoping the record-breaking heat would abate soon.

 

Not wanting to wait any longer, I made last Monday my departure time. Decked out in leathers and a Joe Rocket 4.0 mesh textile jacket, I hopped on the bike, thumbed the started and listened for the Viffer’s familiar growl….all was well. And, I even made a good start, leaving Glendora around 0630. This was good, because the temps in the eastern Sierra were still pushing 100+, and I am a sissy.

 

Riding the VFR on a tour is a big change from the RT. Everything on the Viffer is right now: acceleration, steering, suspension feel, everything seems quicker and crisper. And, a bit more crowded for my 6-3 frame. I figured my knees would either get used to this new seating position or they’d fall off. As it turns out, both came true. I did get more used to the riding position, but there were times….ouch! Fun and pain at the same time!

 

Anyway, I blitzed up CA 395 intent on being in Bishop, CA by 1100. I settled into the ride, enjoying the beginnings of the Sierra’s, and watching the desert gradually give up it’s stranglehold on the land.

I thought about Death Valley, and realized it would have to wait for a later time!

Soon, there was water, trees, and temps that were marginally better.

I stopped in Bishop for gas. “Mister isn’t it hot riding that motorcycle?” the clerk at the station asked. “Yes,” I replied, “But it’s a dry heat.” She looked quizzically at me. Well, maybe it was more of a “you’re an idiot look for being out there,” look. I couldn’t tell. But, she was right. It was hot in Bishop, now nearing 105 degrees. I saw some bikes parked at the local McDonald’s, so what the heck, I figured I’d stop in, have a cold drink and talk to some brother bikers.

 

I walked in, pulled off my helmet, and got my food and drink. Have you noticed that McDonald’s is pouring advertising bucks into hawking salads, yogurt, and other “healthy” food? Even McD’s is surrendering to the latte sippin’, SUV drivin’, So Cal yuppie mentality. Not me. I am a hold out. I ambled up to the counter and bravely asked for a quarter pounder, no cheese, medium fries, and an extra large drink. Hey, I ride a motorcycle and paraglide. I should worry about my cholesterol?? Please.

 

The riders in the McD’s were all on rented Harley Davidson’s. They’d flown out from New York, rented the bikes in San Fran, and were touring CA for two weeks. They were really having a good time, it seemed. As I was sinking my teeth into my quarter pounder, one of the Hell’s dentists (or possibly attorneys-the polished nails were giving him away…)spoke up and said, “Man it is hot out there.”

 

“Yes, but it’s a dry heat,” I responded. I kill me, I was thinking. We chatted for a few minutes. They got to telling me about their ride and bikes. For nearly all of them, this two week tour every year was their sum total of motorcycle experience. None of them owned bikes back in NY, yet all of them certainly looked like Harley riders. In fact, they all, women and men, looked like a Harley store exploded on ‘em. I wanted to ask if they were wearing HD underwear….but thought better of it,. In a fight, I knew I coulda taken the women, but the dentists would’ve caused me some problem. Plus, I didn’t want to dirty up my new JR jacket, etc, etc…So, onward to Lake Tahoe!

 

Leaving Bishop, the Viffer and I accelerated briskly up the Sherwin Grade, and on toward, Mono Lake.

Purely beautiful riding here…to the west, jagged mountains, to the east, dry deserts with huge thunder heads forming. The scenery could not have gotten much better, plus it was cooler. The VFR seemed to like it too, as I watched the engine temp gradually slide down from 238 to a more manageable 221….we stopped for a few pix, and sailed into Lee Vining, home of the World’s Greatest Bakery, which was closed. Dang.

 

CA 89 is a beautiful highway, so I hung a left off US 395, and up shifted into the first set of twisties I’d see on this ride. This was fun, keeping the revs up on the VFR; “kissing the mirror” on the downhill side and winding out of the apexes was exhilarating.

All too soon, however, the twisties gave way to California’s smallest county, Alpine. And what a speed trap its main town, Markleeville, appeared to be. There was a deputy posted, radar lit, at each end of town. At 20 mph, I hoped I wasn’t attracting too much attention.

 

Giving the town some space, I lit the afterburners again for Lake Tahoe.

The south shore is disappointing. Suburban sprawl, fast food joints, and mega-traffic made me feel right at home. Fortunately, Sugar Pine State Park, my camping place for the evening was 12 miles, straight north….I pulled in, grabbed a camping spot, and went into relaxation mode.

 

One of the great things about moto touring is meeting people. I’d already met the HD riders, now it was the folks in the campsite next to me. The VFR seemed to be a conversation starter…

 

“Say, hot enough for ya?”

“Yes, but it’s a dry heat.” I just crack myself up.

 

Well, one thing led to another, and soon I was drinking wine with these folks. Pedro was a social worker, God Bless him, and Margarita is an elementary school principal. We traded war stories into the late evening, under a crystal night sky.

 

0630 came early. Shaking off the last vestiges of the previous night, I broke camp, packed up, and drank a cup of coffee with my new found friends. Then, with a wave I was out of there, making a track for CA 89 north and Mt. Lassen. The ride on 89 north is the best of the northeastern Sierra. Quiet towns like Sierraville, Quincy, and Graegle slip by effortlessly as the Viffer growls pleasantly. There are miles and miles of meadows and forests, and little to interrupt the reverie of the ride except for the occasional deer and construction work.

 

In fact, on CA 89, I saw the only deer I was to see on the entire ride, a doe and two fawns. They ambled out onto the roadway a hundred yards or so in front of me. Plenty of time for me to downshift and stop completely! Thanks, little deer! Construction work was another story. There was a fair amount of it. After about the third stop, I perfected a system where I’d just down shift and lane split to the front of the line. Then, I’d ask the sign control person it I could just wait in the shade on the other side of his flag. This technique worked perfectly, most of the time….

 

Cal Trans Lady: Hey! What are you doing?

Me: I’m coming up to the front of the line?

She: Why?

Me: So I am not behind all these logging trucks and RVs when you let us go.

She: Oh

Me: Thanks!

She: Say, aren’t you hot today?

Me: Yes, but it’s a dry heat! In fact, it’s so hot, in the last town I saw a dog chasing a cat, and they were both walking….Jeez, I’m funny.

 

Anyway, the road opened up, and occasionally I’d see glimpses of Mt. Lassen thru the trees. Eagerly I looked forward to being there, ‘cause it had to be MUCH cooler!

And soon I was. After paying my ten dollars to get into the Mt. Lassen National Volcanic Park, I rode thru endless meadows, incredible twisties, and up to the summit at 8100’. Here, life was grand. The views and snow were extraordinary, and the weather was superb. I hung out here for a couple of hours, knowing that I would soon be descending into the hottest section of the central valley, Red Bluff, CA.

 

CA 36 is a motorcyclists’ road. Dipping and twisting for 50 miles, it eventually drops you into Red Bluff, a pleasant little community of 20,000 right on Interstate 5. Lots of motels and restaurants, I pulled into a Motel Six near the freeway. I was fried. My eyeballs and lips felt scorched. I was exhausted. And this was with me guzzling nearly 140 oz of water during those fifty miles. The thermometer outside the motel read 116 degrees. I raced into the lobby, where a blast of cold air jolted me into life. “Want a room?” she asked.

“Absolutely, “ I responded.

“Hey, isn’t it too hot to be riding a bike out there?”

“Yes, but it’s a dry heat.” I said, keeping my sense of humor.

 

Grabbing my room key, I pulled the gear off the bike and patted its gas tank, thanking it for getting me to Red Bluff in the heat. I raced up the stairs, dove into the room and peeled my soggy clothes off. Dialing the shower to Full Chill, I stood under the energizing water, vowing to not go outside until the sun went down. At 2100 hrs, it was still 103 degrees, but at least it was dark!

 

That night, I oiled the Viffer’s chain, checked the oil, and gave the whole bike a once over. The Viffer looked good! Bug splattered, but well. That night I fell asleep dreaming about CA 36 west bound to the coast. 140 miles of twisty tarmac culminating at Eureka, where the forecasters said it would be 58 degrees tomorrow. Perfect, I thought…

 

After a waffle and coffee at Perko’s, I decided to ride all the way to Brookings Oregon today. Bill Iffert, “Tank” on the BMW Sporttouring Board, had kindly offered me floor space and dinner that evening. Who could resist that offer? So, it was off and running…

 

What can I say about CA 36? It is arguably one of the best motorcycling roads around. Nearly 140 miles of twists and turns, clean pavement, and no traffic made it so. It took me a few hours to do this piece of road. I started out fast, but ended up slowing down a bit to take a few pix and to think about the vast loneliness of the road. In fact, in over three hours here, I saw only three cars and one logging truck. Very sweet!

 

All good things end, and so did CA 36 just south of Eureka. Now I donned layers. It was chilly here! Foggy, windy, and temps barely scratching 60 made me think of winter in sunny So Cal. In Eureka I stopped to drink some coffee and oil my chain at the local Kawasaki dealership. A very friendly place, they had a few very nice KTMs and Vee Stroms as well.

 

Soon I was northbound again on CA 101. Here, you enter major tourist country. Redwood decorations, and giant trees you can drive thru, it is a tourists’ delight. Being as I’ve sampled most of these wares in times past I merely throttled down for the obligatory 25 mph zones thru each little town, speeding up as I went past.

Soon, I found myself at the “Hungry Clam” in Brookings. I dialed up Bill, and in no time at all he was at the restaurant. We had dinner and headed up to his house.

What to say about Bill? I guess I’d say that he is a man who is instantly your friend. With eyes that twinkle with a mirthful grin, he is honest, outspoken and caring. He loves his R 1150RT just about as much as he loves people. And, he is a rider! His 04 RT has about 64K on it. I hope you will look Bill up if you find yourself in Brookings, OR. You will leave richer for knowing him!

 

In the morning I followed Bill over to his work. Bill, among other things, does maintenance for a local doctor. But, maintenance doesn’t do justice to Bill’s responsibilities. He helps the doctor build and maintain a giant salt water reef in the doctor’s rec room. Bill also cares for a substantial number of parrots, including Hyacinthine Macaws, that they are breeding.. Bill is an amazing man, who spends his days doing incredible work!

 

Still, with all the cool stuff going on here, there were miles to ride, and places to see. So, I shook Bill’s hand, and headed out into the early morning fog. My plan was to visit Pelican Bay, the maximum security prison near Crescent City.

 

First things first. I spotted a coffee place where a couple of deputies where sitting outside. I grabbed a cup and sat down. Both Del Norte Sheriff’s deputies were interested in the VFR, so I told them a bit about my ride. Interestingly enough, one of them knew a guy I worked with on the PD. Small world! I decided to ask about Pelican Bay.

 

Me: Say, how do you get to Pelican Bay? I mean besides killing an inmate at another correctional facility or being a drug king pin?

Deputy: Oh, you just want to visit?

 

So, I went and saw it. Riding for miles through incredible forest past beautiful homes led me to an opening in the forest and the prison. I took a few pix and rode off. Bill told me I’d have little goose bumps when I left, and I did. I guess it was because I COULD leave, and I had a beautiful motorcycle to make my escape. The other thing I thought about was whether or not I’d really want to live around Pelican Bay. There were incredible homes, but I’m not so sure I’d want to live so close to the Baddest of the Bad!

 

Now it was time to head south. Today, I’d put on some miles, riding from Crescent City to Santa Rosa, near San Francisco. The riding was varied. First thing was to take in the “Avenue of the Giants” which is a scenic byway that runs parallel to US 101. This is a must-do ride if you want to see redwood trees. It’s cooler under the redwoods too! Exiting the Avenue, it was back on US 101 for a short, fast ride to Leggett.

 

Leggett is the start of CA 1, one of the most picturesque routes on the planet. This is a very rugged coastline, with almost no services until you reach Fort Bragg. It’s a great place to ride. When I got to Fort Bragg, it seemed too early to stop, so it was onto CA 20 to Willits. Another delightful 30+ miles of twisties. At least I’d finally rounded out my tires!

 

I pulled into Willits, and was back in the heat, though the temps seemed to be on the decline, which was good. Not one person asked me if it was too hot, which disappointed me greatly…spent another restful night at a M6 and left early for So Cal.

 

Now, my ride was nearly done. I thought about how lucky I was to be able to travel the state by motorcycle. How lucky I was to be healthy, and to have a supportive wife who would say, “Go ahead and ride, honey. It’s ok by me!” I reflected on these things as I wound my way down into Santa Cruz, Moss Landing, and Atascadero.

 

The next day, I packed up early. There were mixed emotions. I was glad to be heading home today, but a little sad too. I missed The Flame very much, but the pull of the road is so strong! I wanted to be home with my family, but hmmm….I wonder what’s on the other side of that mountain???

 

Here are a few final pix of my travels in no particular order:

 

 

 

 

 

May all your rides be safe,

 

Steve in Sol Cal

[Firefight911]

Steve,

 

Absolutely wonderful tale. Very articulate and very well written. I felt as though I was right there with you!

 

I, too, have the same emotions as you when out on the road. My wife, thank the Lord, is supportive as well but I do miss her so when away!

 

Thanks for such a great tale!

[bakerzdosen]

I just crack myself up

Well, you cracked me up too if it's any consolation.

 

Wonderful report. Thanks for sharing and posting pics.

 

Oh, and Bill (Tank), that is a beautiful marine tank. I know what kind of work goes into one of those.

[GelStra]

So were you THAT upset that I couldn't make it for coffee Sunday night that you had to ride the whole friggin' state? (Jeez, I crack myself up! )

Great ride, Doctor. Glad we got to go with you. At least, thanks for taking us along!

Now, about that coffee.....

[BamaRider]

Having just returned from many of the same roads I can relate. Thanks for the memories.

[Marty Hill]

Steve,

 

Wonderful, always look forward to your posts. hope to see you in torrey (for a few minutes).

 

Hi to J and the girls.

[Shawnee Bill]

Steve,

 

Nice pictures, nice ride, but uhhh, wasn't it hot?

 

Next time I'm in Lee Vining I'll go north instead of west.

[Joel]

Steve,

 

Wonderful, always look forward to your posts. hope to see you in torrey (for a few minutes).

 

+1.

 

And another 1 for good measure!

 

What a great tale.

 

I hope being passed over for the "dubious promotion" turns out to be a blessing in disguise. As far as I can tell from your tale, it sure seems to have been -- in the short term anyway.

 

One more thing, I just gotta ask. Was it hot enough for ya?

[SageRider]

Great report and photos...

and what a wonderful "dry" sense of humor.

[jgrant]

Nice write up!

[Carnadero]

I thought about Death Valley, and realized it would have to wait for a later time!

104.....is that temperature or distance?

[Dances_With_Wiener_Dogs]

Thanks Steve! All of it beautiful. I have been wanting to visit Bill down there in OR, but never have made the time. Thanks for giving us pics of lots of wonderful places!

[Why_Fly]

That was a great ride report. I usually just look at the pics but your write up was entertaining. Thanks

[AdventurePoser]

Thanks, everybody, for your kind words. As far as Death Valley's temperature vs. miles, I WISH it was only 104 degrees...

 

Cheers,

Steve

[AdventurePoser]

Being back at work today, and talking to the "big guy" at Downtown, so to speak, I believe this position would not have been best for me. Still, you have to stay out there, applying, interviewing, etc, etc, for professional growth.

 

I wish I could just make money riding my motorcycle. It would be so much easier! (And fun)

 

Cheers,

Steve

[ericfoerster]

Great ride tale Steve! Thanks for sharing that

 

I wish I could just make money riding my motorcycle. It would be so much easier! (And fun)

 

Me too

[tobyzusa]

I'm just glad it was a dry heat .

[AdventurePoser]

I'm just glad it was a dry heat .

 

Kinda like in TX, huh?

 

You who ride in the South, and you know who you are, are riding gods IMHO. There's hot, then there's HOT, and then there's friggin' HOT...plus humidity.

 

cheers,

 

Steve in So Cal

[JB-BMW]

Another great Steve Carr trip report!

 

Thanks for sharing.

 

Did you miss your Roadcrafter??

[AdventurePoser]

Another great Steve Carr trip report!

 

Thanks for sharing.

 

Did you miss your Roadcrafter??

 

On the coast where I was freezing my butt off, yes. In the Eastern Sierra, not at all.

 

I actually found this combo pretty good for touring. Oxtar boots, HJC leather pants, and Joe Rocket 4.0 jacket. When I got chilly I added the zip in liner. When it got really chilly, I threw on a capilene sweater underneath the liner.

 

When it was hot, the jacket did fine with a long sleeve cotton tee shirt underneath....

 

cheers,

Steve

[roydog007]

Very Nice Ride tale, wish I could have joined you my friend, I did for about two minutes here. Work sucks

[Tank]

Wow, What an incredable write up Steve, thank you for the kind words, though you forgot to mention that i'm very good looking and single....(I just crack myself up). The fog you woke up to burned off about 1:30 pm and the temp climbed to a staggering 74*, which caused me to remove my sweatshirt. You seemed to have had the best of the coast, that it offers, according to the pictures. You squessed a classic loop out of the week. Good show.

Thanks for the visit and i'll look for you in Torry.

[AdventurePoser]

Bill,

 

I meant every word of it. Meeting you enriched my life. Thanks also for the tour of "The Ranch." Awesome.

 

For me, the ride continued very chilly down past Eureka. I stopped for coffee in Crescent City and a local native complained of the "hot spell." Hmmm. Where I sit, 62 degrees is called "winter."

 

Steve

PS-You where right about the goosebumps leaving Pelican Bay.

See you next time, and thank the doc for his generosity in allowing my to see his place.

[Mike O]

Steve,

 

Wonderful story. I always enjoy reading them and the photos always captured and inserted at the right points.

 

I ambled up to the counter and bravely asked for a quarter pounder, no cheese, medium fries, and an extra large drink. Hey, I ride a motorcycle and paraglide. I should worry about my cholesterol?? Please.

 

I love the logic! (you must be watching your weight; no cheese!)

 

Regards,

 

Mike O

[gottago]

Loved the ride report and pics.

We've tried to get up to Lassen a few times and always ran into snow. Amazed at the amount still up there in July. Especially liked the pillion in the one pic.

We are in agreement of your opinion of Tank. Met him at DVD and enjoyed his spirit tremendously. Very interesting fella.

[Dennis Andress]

Thanks for the great ride tale Steve. Now, more than ever, I want to spend some time in Northern California.

[ESokoloff]

Well done Steve or perhaps you only managed to cook your self to medium well

Great tale & remember every thing happens for a reason

Say, wasn't it hot on that motorcycle

[AdventurePoser]

Well done Steve or perhaps you only managed to cook your self to medium well

Great tale & remember every thing happens for a reason

Say, wasn't it hot on that motorcycle

 

Yes, but.....

 

Steve

[bart_vanreeth]

Steve, great story & pics ! Thanks...

[JonathanE]

Nice write up Steve. It sure makes it tough to stay home.

 

If you were camping at Sugar Pine Point on Monday the 24th, I was less than a mile away in Tahoma. In fact, I think Monday was the day that we went Mt. Biking up in the hills above the camp ground. It's a small world, but still big enough to ride around in.

[dhb]

Thanks, Steve. Your pix and tale almost enough to make me want to be there, but as Eric knows, heat is NOT my thing. That said, it looks like you made the most of the heat wave and even got to the snow in Lassen. Good on ya.

Take care,

Dave

[AdventurePoser]

Thanks, Steve. Your pix and tale almost enough to make me want to be there, but as Eric knows, heat is NOT my thing. That said, it looks like you made the most of the heat wave and even got to the snow in Lassen. Good on ya.

Take care,

Dave

 

Believe me, that kind of heat (110+) is not my thing either...

 

I think the Sierra's are amazing. On the eastern side you ride from the desert straight up into the mountains, while on the western side you ride for 30-50 miles through gradually rising foothills before getting to the big stuff...Even here, CA 36 was an awesome road.

 

I'd like to come back and do it again. Even this week would be manageable as the heat wave broke and moved east!

 

Steve

[BrianT]

Great write up. Thanks for posting so I can live vicariously through your travels since mine seem to be limited lately. What fun.

[azkaisr]

Thanks for sharing!

 

Kaisr

[AdventurePoser]

Brian,

 

He'll be riding before you know it!

 

I remember when my boys were toddlers. Seemed they would never grow fast enough for me to have some serious fun with them.

 

Unfortunately, the time does go by too quickly...my younger son is now telling me his dream motorcycle is a new GS. It seems like yesterday that he was peddling one of those three wheel trikes around the house!

 

Cheers,

Steve in So Cal