Jump to content

Clack clack clack warm engine


cabbage

Recommended Posts

I've just done a valve clearance and rocker end float adjustment(1100rt)

 

When cold the bike starts and (after the 2 or 3 second clatter from the LHS cam chain)runs whisper quiet. The sound is exquisite.

 

When the bike is at normal operating temp it develops a clack clack clack sound. Bike still runs fine. Do they all do this?

 

Would the cam chain tensioner modification cure this noise?

 

Cabbage

Link to comment
Rich06FJR1300

usually the tensioner is just on startup (takes time for the oil to reach it)..if its clacking, not sure if you're using the right grade of oil? i know when mine gets really hot, you hear the valve train as the oil is basically water (but this is when the RT is in traffic on a hot day)...i use 15w50 synthetic (mobil 1)....if it was regular oil i would probably be using 20W50 in summer and 10w40 in winter.

Link to comment
SAAB93driver

I had this problem on my R1150RS since new but only when engine was warm and idleing. I changed to the new style cam tensioner and the noise is gone.

Link to comment
Would the cam chain tensioner modification cure this noise?

 

Hi

 

I also have a 1100RT and I have done the left hand cam mod only because of the warm start up clatter (it’s a BMW) however mine also sounds noisy when warm so doing the mod only cures the start up clatter

 

I have yet to do the rocker end float & valve clearances I have been told that changing the oil to 15w/50 semi synthetic car oil may help as it used in turbo charged engines and is more efficient at removing heat and as the engine is oil/air cooled this make sense

 

Also change the spark plugs to BRISK this makes a huge difference to the running

 

Hope this helps

Link to comment

I just began experiencing the the same issue on the right cylinder. Noticed it on my way back from a cross country trip, and just figured it was valve train noise. So, I did the adjustment today and just like the original poster I have the exact same symptoms. Tried to stop by the dealer today to maybe have a tech listen to it, but they closed at 3pm. Little worried to continue riding until I can sort out the issue. Biks is a '97 1100RT with 97650 on the clock and it just recently started doing this.

 

Any input would be appreciated! Cheers

Link to comment
duckbubbles
I just began experiencing the the same issue on the right cylinder. Noticed it on my way back from a cross country trip, and just figured it was valve train noise. So, I did the adjustment today and just like the original poster I have the exact same symptoms. Tried to stop by the dealer today to maybe have a tech listen to it, but they closed at 3pm. Little worried to continue riding until I can sort out the issue. Biks is a '97 1100RT with 97650 on the clock and it just recently started doing this.

 

With the valve cover off and the cylinder on TDC/compression, valves unloaded, try to move the rocker arm up and down. Any more than about .005 inch of up and down play and you are probably hearing the rocker arm moving up and down while it is running. It's a pretty easy fix, it doesn't involve any parts.

 

Frank

Link to comment

The valve and rocker clearances are spot on.

 

I'm running fully synth 5/40 oil and the outside temperature has been v hot for the uk. 80s and 90s not unusual.

 

Would a change to 20/50 make such a difference? Has anybody actually eliminated this noise by swapping oil grades?

 

As a natural born worrier I'm having thoughts of big end problems, timing chains, and all number of other disasters.

 

I need somebody to calm my worried brow and make it all better. If that doesn't happen I shall be forced to go to the fridge and crack a tinny or four. Then you'll all be sorry.

 

Cabbage

Link to comment
Would a change to 20/50 make such a difference? Has anybody actually eliminated this noise by swapping oil grades?
FWIW I recently changed from a 5W-40 to 15W-50 as the summer heated up here and I can't tell the slightest difference in engine noise between the two.

 

It should be noted that oilheads/hexheads make a lot of 'clackity' noises by their nature and most are nothing to worry about, rather just a characteristic of the breed. Unless the noise is very objectionable or growing steadily worse I wouldn't tend to worry about it.

Link to comment
Mine does that occasionally on the right side. It is the pully/shaft/butterfly on the TB.

 

Yeah, I forgot about that one. Try putting pressure on the twistgrip, to just, but only just, open the throttle. If that stops the clacking it is the throttle butterflys rattling at tickover on the slow intake pulses.

Also, does pulling in the clutch stop it? The gearbox has a lot of free play in the dogs and can knock at low rpm in neutral - improved with an anal valve/tbs sync and a slightly raised tickover.

 

Andy

Link to comment

It makes me feel better to know that I'm not alone. I adjusted my valves yesterday thinking I could get away from all that clatter. On start up it sounds fine but when she warms up it all comes back. I recently went to all synthetic and I'm going back to the dinosour stuff to see if it helps. I'm tired of people looking at me and wondering if I hear "that" sound!

Link to comment

Andy

 

I tried pulling the clutch lever...no difference. I haven't tried the throttle test yet. I'll do it next time the engine is fully warm.

 

Cheers

 

Cabbage

Link to comment

Just a problem I had with my 96R1100RT. A clicking sound started all of a sudden one time in between servises espically when engine was warm. I just Put it down to valves need ajusting and and never get too concerned about a clicking tappet as i used to maintain if its clicking your valve is closing fully. How wrong I was it turned out to be a siezed push rod for one exaust valve on right side. The Clicking was cam passing by siezed and bent push rod. Clicking noise became more pronounced when warm for some reason. crazy.gif

Link to comment

Will check the end play on the rocker arm, but the sound is at all RPMs and rises with the engine at all throttle openings. So, I doub't it's the throttle plate, or even the rocker end play. A siezed push rod, might be the culprit, but wouldn't the bike begin running poorly? I had been running Belray 20-50 semi-syn, and switched to Red Line 20-50 full-syn on this last service.

Link to comment

Yes it did run less than its best but was putting it down to other things eg poor fuel the valve clearance that I was going to take care off at next servis but never in a million years a sezied push rod dopeslap.gif

Link to comment

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...