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Am I missing anything on my 18,000mi checkup?


Willie

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Well, I went down the list and think I hit what I needed to. Bled ABS and clutch and inspected pads. Changed fluid in final drive, tranny, and engine with new filter. Adjusted valves and did TBS. Inspected airfilter and plugs, but didn't replace. They looked good. Should I still replace anyway. They were done at the 12k checkup. General inspection of bike, tires, cables, ETC. Even did the left side cam chain tensioner upgrade. No noisy startup and the bike sounds a bit throatier. I did want to find out what to grease the sidestand with and the proper way of doing it. I have to put it up and down the whole way with my foot. It's not moving too slick anymore. Am I missing anything. Should I lube the throttle and starter lever cables? Should I schedule something with the dealer to read any codes that might pop up or should I let that go. Bike is running good except for a possible defective tire on the front. I still have a slight vibration up front, so Metzler is sending me a new front Z6 to try. Thanks for the help, Terry

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Terry,

The cables should only be lubed at the ends around the ferrules. The cables from BMW are Teflon lined and are known to get more quickly worn and less smooth if you use lube in the cable (dirt magnet and incompatibility of the Teflon and some cable lubes).

On the side and center stands I have used spray on lithium grease that uses a carrying vehicle that allows penetration and then evaporates leaving the thicker grease. NAPA and other auto stores can supply this. If the grease doesn't help there is probably crud built up so the best course is disassembly, cleaning, lubrication, and re-assembly. Be sure to torque the critical fasteners and use thread locker if called for in the repair manual.

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John Dickens
Terry,

 

On the side and center stands I have used spray on lithium grease that uses a carrying vehicle that allows penetration and then evaporates leaving the thicker grease. NAPA and other auto stores can supply this. If the grease doesn't help there is probably crud built up so the best course is disassembly, cleaning, lubrication, and re-assembly. thumbsup.gif

 

I use aerosol chain lube for the stands. It is thin enough to penetrate into the pivot points then the solvent evaporates leaving the grease behind.

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ShovelStrokeEd

What John said.

 

On the Blackbird and VFR, of course, side stand lube is a byproduct of the daily maintenance. grin.gif

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Should I schedule something with the dealer to read any codes that might pop up or should I let that go

 

I would. Your dealer shouldn't charge any more the 15-20 mins for a simple code readout.

 

You mentioned you changed the gearbox and final drive oil. Did that not get done at the 12k service? If not, good job doing it. If so, you really only need to change those fluids every 12k. No harm in doing it early, just would save you a little time and $.

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I find a hi temp lube spray for side stand and centre stand works better as both may build up head from exaust system I myself use 3in1 copper spray grease works a treat.

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Rich06FJR1300

but this removes the spring from the tensioner, hence its not a chain tensioner anymore correct? so is this method putting the tension all on the right side of the cam chain?

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It still puts tension on the chain. I'm not sure which one it is, but either the spring is internal now or its hydraulic. Now its alot quieter. Some people say it helps tension the chain better and helps with valve timing and help stabalize idle, but I'm not sure if I noticed anything along those lines. I may have done something, but after doing a much needed tune up on the bike, I won't be able to tell anyway. I guess basically what it does is stays pumped up all the time, so unlike the old design, there is no clatter upon startup till it gets oil and pumps up. Only took a few minutes to do and $60, so I figured, what the heck. The chain lube did the trick. Thanks, Terry

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