Replacing Alt Belt

[mmarsh]

First question from a newbe. Has anyone got a simple step by step on Alternator belt replacement.

[John Ranalletta]

From IBMWR Oilhead manual:

 

Change Alternator Belt

Tools Parts

T-handle hex – 4mm alternator belt

socket – 13mm

ratchet

wrench – 13mm

torque wrench

 

• Remove the four bolts holding the black plastic alternator belt cover at the front
  of the engine, 4mm T-handle hex.
  
• Remove the cover by sliding it straight down.
  
• Loosen the 2 nuts and 1 bolt, 13mm, that hold the alternator – one is on top
  
• Remove the old belt. (Some bikes have a pipe that traps the belt – loosen it
  
• Install the new belt being sure it is properly seated.
• BMW calls for a tensioning torque of 5.9 ft.lb. (8 Nm) on the adjuster bolt on
  
• Once the belt is under proper tension, tighten the 2 nuts and 1 bolt, 13mm, to
  
• Check the belt for proper tension (see above) and proper seating alignment.

[KMG_365]

G'Day, Mal and welcome to the forum!

 

John's got it almost all there. What the IBMWR.org tutorial fails to tell you is that you first need to take off the Left (port) side Tupperware (body panel) as well as the port side "shark fin" (small body panel piece that serves as an attachment point for the larger Tupperware piece) before you'll be able to get the alternator belt cover out. Also, mine slides down and out to the left side rather than straight down.

 

Be aware that BMW recommends re-tensioning a newly installed belt 10,000 kilometers after being installed--one time only--then it should last until being replaced at ~60,000 kilometers (if it will last that long! ).

[mmarsh]

Thanks for the help guys. Perhaps you can answer this as well. Can it be replaced with a standard type (not BMW) belt?

[Jim Moore]

I'm told these belts will fit. I've never tried them.

 

4 04 0024 5 Goodyear Gatorback poly v belt

 

5 04 024 0 Dayco Poly Cog Belt

 

K 04 023 3 Carquest Poly V belt

[Mudman]

Be aware that BMW recommends re-tensioning a newly installed belt 10,000 kilometers after being installed--one time only--then it should last until being replaced at ~60,000 kilometers (if it will last that long! ).

 

One added comment;

 

The 6000 mile(10000 km) re-adjustment only applies to the R1150 series. The R1100 series are still only adjusted at the time of installation

[Stan Walker]

The 6000 mile(10000 km) re-adjustment only applies to the R1150 series. The R1100 series are still only adjusted at the time of installation

 

Still, it's the same belt as the first couple of years of the R1150RT's, same basic engine, almost the same power. Almost the same electrical loading. Seems like the same rules should apply to both.

 

And as a happy owner of both an R1100RT and an R1150RT, I do apply the same rules. I install the belt and ignore it for the next 36,000 miles (R1100RT rules). So far all my belts (2 on each bike) have gone the full distance with no apparent sign of problems when they were removed.

 

And yes Mr Mudman, I'm once again NOT doing it the official BMW way. I'm such a bad person, I can't hardly stand myself......

 

Stan

[Mudman]

"And yes Mr Mudman, I'm once again NOT doing it the official BMW way. I'm such a bad person, I can't hardly stand myself...... "

 

It's OK Stan, you will get over it

 

Everyone else:

My comment was based on a BMW TSB that was issued in late 2002 as I recall. That added task was added to the service checklist shortly after.

 

Sorry I offended you with my previous post, Stan

[Stan Walker]

Sorry I offended you with my previous post, Stan

 

I wasn't offended, just like to show that there is life outside of BMW's rules....

 

Stan

 

Stan

[Mudman]

That's cool, I can live with that

[wolcott]

Excuse the hijack- on an R1100RT on the side of the road without resorting to the "spin the belt on technique' where you press the belt against the bottom pulley with a tool and then have to have to get a passerby to stop to thumb the starter for you- Can you get by with just one 13 mm combo wrench, (2) 13 combo wrenches, or do you need one 13 mm combo wrench and a 3/8 ratchet with a 13 mm socket? I thought I read you can use the tire iron to adjust belt tension. If mine every breaks on highway and I'm by myself I don't know if a good samaritan will stop to thumb the starter to crank that belt on while i am holding tool against belt on bottom pulley. Thanks.

[LDHack]

I broke my R1150RT belt at 36k on the FL Turnpike. I rode direct to an exit and did the work in a parking lot of a garage. With the BMW tool kit, plus a borrowed socket, I failed to get the top bolt loosened. It requires a longer combination wrench than the tool kit provides, and a socket doesn't fit behind the front suspension. I reverted to the use the starter method, and did it solo with minimal problems. That belt has done fine, with plenty of miles on it.

 

The hardest issue is removing the front cover, without removing the tupperwear. It is possible, but difficult and risky - requiring some twisting of the cover to get it out and back in place. I did succeed at changing my belt without removing the tupperwear.

 

I just changed the belt again, in my garage, and you do need a longer box wrench, plus a socket with an extension. The BMW tool kit won't do it. I think an on the road repair will be a use the starter to spin on the belt method, almost exclusively. It's not bad doing it solo.

[ESokoloff]

So far all my belts (2 on each bike) have gone the full distance with no apparent sign of problems when they were removed.

 

 

Hey Stan, what kind of electrical load do you have on your bikes?

[Francis]

Under regular circumsatances how do you tension the belt to the "proper" tension and what is that "proper" tension?

 

Can you also review the "starter" method...please?

 

Thanks,

Francis

[ESokoloff]

This "starter" method has me concerned as it could leave the belt to tight but some times you do what you have to.

 

Best to check & re-tension as needed as soon as possible.

[wolcott]

The "starter" method (using the starter button to spin the motor while you are pressing on the alternator belt against the bottom pulley" was described by Jamie in a thread called "alternator belts...Jamie". Do search by putting his username KMG_365. somebody correct me if this is not right thread.

[Stan Walker]

Hey Stan, what kind of electrical load do you have on your bikes?

 

While I do have driving lights mounted, I seldom actually use them. I also have a 100 W high beam bulb fitted. I don't run the aux lights, or the fogs, or the high beam in the daytime. And I don't ride a lot at night. I do have some add on additional led tail/brake lights.

 

So my electrical loads are low. About the only other additional electrical loads are the GPS and the V1 and only on tour. Occasional use of a heated vest if the weather is really cold, again only on tour.

 

Stan

[ESokoloff]

So for the record, you consume the minimum amount of electrons(for the most part) & get the BMW rated belt life with no retensioning needed between Changes.

I think your example may indicate that electron conservation reduces belt maintenance.

[Stan Walker]

yeah, what you said.......

 

Stan

[ESokoloff]

yeah, what you said.......

 

Stan

 

No further questions your Honor, the Prosecution rests its case

[beemerboy]

I replaced my alternator belt just prior to leaving for Gunnison. I was shocked to find my belt in such poor condition at 29.5K miles on the clock.

 

The belt was missing about 70% of its internal ribbing and had about a 4" split along one segment. Here's a photo, sorry it's not better quality.

 

If nothing else I hope this spurs R bike owners to check their belts. There's no way mine would have lasted until the 36K mark and it was a lot easier to replace it in the comfort of my garage than on the side of the road!

[wolcott]

Randy: You are in Co. which hardly qualifies as a scorching hot place like Nevada, AZ., N.M., TX, etc. That is one nasty-looking belt! I have never seen a time limit reference in regards to alternator belts. You know like on cars- they say even if you are an lil old lady who only drives twice a week you should change any belts, hoses, timing belts, at certain time intervals even if you don't rack up hardly any mileage. I have heard everything from 4-6 years on rubber parts depending upon the part. I checked my closely with a strong 3d maglite at 20k and it looked fine. Now, I have a new one in side case, but I find myself asking "why didn't you just change it, you dummy, when you had the tupperware off?" Maybe we should just change them at 4 years or 24k mileage, whichever comes first. Of course, it is the same with throttle cables- someone will say they have 50k on original belt and cables and no need to change them if they look alright.

[beemerboy]

Randy: You are in Co. which hardly qualifies as a scorching hot place like Nevada, AZ., N.M., TX, etc. That is one nasty-looking belt!

 

I was thinking the same thing although most of my long trips have been to AZ, UT, NM, TX, and the southeast. Co isn't that hot and I only run XM radio as an accessory. What gives??

 

I checked my closely with a strong 3d maglite at 20k and it looked fine. Now, I have a new one in side case, but I find myself asking "why didn't you just change it, you dummy, when you had the tupperware off?"

 

I started carrying a spare belt around the 20K mark and while I had no clue as to how to go about a roadside belt replacement I figured I could handle anything because I was a Boy Scout.

 

 

Maybe we should just change them at 4 years or 24k mileage, whichever comes first. Of course, it is the same with throttle cables- someone will say they have 50k on original belt and cables and no need to change them if they look alright.

 

Good point. I will monitor all cables and plan on inspecting the belt more often. I'm ashamed to admit I'd never inspected it before and had I used the pulley to adjust my timing mark while doing the valve adjust I'd have noticed the problem sooner.