Cost of Mounting Auxiliary Lights

[Jon_M]

Can anyone compare prices on light installation?

 

I just bought a set of PIAA 1100X lights and a pair of Martin Fabrication caliper mounts. I plan to have the kit installed when I take the bike in for the 6000 service. Anyone care to estimate how many hours of shop time it should take to do the installation? Does the 6000 service involve removing and replacing any of the plastic that would also have to be taken off to install the lights? Obviously, I'm trying to save a few bucks by having the two jobs done at the same time, but am I deluding myself?

 

Total outlay so far is is $159 for the lights (ebay) and $75 for the brackets (director from manufacturer). Still to be purchased is the autoswitch for controlling the lights with the turn-signal toggle. What should I expect to pay for that?

 

Jon

[EffBee]

Having it done as part of a service will save you a little money. But remember, a good technician can R&R the tupperware in 15-20 minutes, so the savings isn't going to be that much.

 

What you'll pay depends on the quality of work you want done. Does your light kit come with a harness specifically designed for your bike (some of the PIAA kits sold by Cycle Gadgets do come that way), or will any custom wiring have to be done by the technician at the dealership? Will existing wiring plugs and ends have to be cut off and new connectors installed? Will those connectors have to be insulated for safety? How carefully are the wires to be routed? Details take time. Time is money. You also state that you're going to use an AutoSwitch. Will this require tapping into the electrical harness or perhaps into one of the handlebar switches itself? Again, time/money.

 

The lights themselves will have to be installed, then adjusted., both vertically and horizontally. Having them at the right height does you no good if they're both pointing toward the curb.

 

Don't hold me to it, I would GUESS you're probably looking at somewhere in the 3-hour range, perhaps a bit less, perhaps more. Deduct a little time for Tupperware that's already removed for your service and you'd save a little there. That's my $.02. And it's worth exactly that. Of course, if you want to do it yourself, you could plan on spending most of a Saturday on it. I bet you'd do a very nice job, too. We usually do when we're working on our own motorcycle and we have all day to contemplate each succeeding step in an installation.

 

Back in the day (I've got a '99RT), I had a full Service 2 done, new tires installed, and two sets of driving lights installed. The driving light labor was about $350 of a total $1100 bill. I choked a bit, even though it was pretty much exactly what the estimate had been that I'd agreed to. But those lights have served me faithfully for more than 6 years. In all, it was money well spent.

[Jon_M]

Thanks for the helpful and detailed reply. They main point that I see is that, while pairing the installation with a scheduled service is efficient, it won't actually simplify the installation all that much. I got a good price on the lights and will pay what I have to for the labor of getting them working. I could do it myself, given enough time and patience, but the thought of disassembly and reassembly of all that shiny plastic makes me hesitate.

[Rags]

You have to take tupperware off for caliper lights?

[Jim VonBaden]

You have to take tupperware off for caliper lights?

 

Yes, unless you intend to duct tape the wires to the outside of your tupperware.

 

Jim

[EffBee]

You have to take tupperware off for caliper lights?

 

Actually, it isn't the lights that are the issue, but the fact that he wants to use an AutoSwitch. These can sometimes be tapped into a wiring harness that is best accessed under the nose of the fairing. To remove the nose of the fairing, it is necessary to remove both side panels first.

[TonyT607]

I just installed my PIAA 1100X's on my ST. I would have preferred to mount them on the body of the bike somewhere rather than exposing them to the ups and downs of the front wheel, but not too many options on the ST. I bought the 1100X Automotive kit ($150 new on ebay vs $250 for the M/C specific kit from any M/C accessory house). I ordered a PIAA M/C (waterproof) switch for $20 from CBT Imports and when I told them what I was doing they were nice anough to throw in (free)the motorcycle specific brackets to replace the cheesy plastic car mouting brackets.

 

I was going to order the Martin Fab brackets but when I took a look at the bike I noticed the small T-20 screw holding the plastic piece that supports the front fender on the lower fork tube. I went to Sears hardware an found a set of longer socket head cap screws (in black steel) with the diameter and thread as the BMW screws. Using a rubber-backed steel washer, I simply bolted the PIAA M/C bracket into the hole where the plastic fender piece is mounted. Cost of parts = $0.90. For wiring, I ran the wires to the lights down the right side of the bike, along the snorkel. Did not remove the tupperware. I used a coat hanger to fish the wires through, and then secured them to the snorkel with zip ties.

 

I did not use the PIAA harness, I had a pre-installed custom harness from Eastern Beaver for my other gadgets with pre-wried connections for the lights, realy, and switch.

 

I still need to clean up the wires a bit near the lights, but it other wise looks pretty good. The lights have very short pigtails. I used crimp connectors covered them with heat shrink wrap. The PIAA switch is double-sided taped to the right switch housing, forward of the kill switich.

 

[Jon_M]

Actually, it isn't the lights that are the issue, but the fact that he wants to use an AutoSwitch.

What if I use the little push-button switch that is supplied with the PIAA kit? I checked out the AutoSwitch from Cycle Gadgets and decided that it's overkill. The push-button will do me just fine. I don't object to paying for a proper installation, but if it is a simple DIY with the supplied PIAA parts, I might give it a shot.

[TonyT607]

Jon, if you bought the M/C kit vs the car kit you're fine. The difference with the switch is that the car switch isn't waterproof. The M/C switch is covered in a rubber membrane. It is an easy DIY job. If you got your lights on ebay like I did, and it came with the supplied harness from PIAA, you will probably have a lot of left over wire - those kits come with long leads. To keep things clean and simple I'd recommend cutting down the cables once you know what length you'll need. For reconnecting them a great splicing solution are the Posi Lock connectors. They require no soldering or crimping, and hold very tight. You can also undo them at will. They make a waterproof version known as Posi Seal. Well equipped NAPA stores will carry them separately or in a little kit with diffeernt sizes. If you aren't familiar with them go to easternbeaver.com and take a look at them there. I would also cover your connectors and splices with shrink wrap tubing (Radio Shack).

 

One more thing: to extend bulb life, goop dielectric grease all over the litle pins on the back of the bulbs, and also into the little holes they go into. This will retard/prevent corrosion which will weaken the pin and cause it to break. You can get that stuff at NAPA or any auto parts store in the electrical aisle.

 

Don't ask me how i know.......

[Rags]

Actually, it isn't the lights that are the issue, but the fact that he wants to use an AutoSwitch.

What if I use the little push-button switch that is supplied with the PIAA kit? I checked out the AutoSwitch from Cycle Gadgets and decided that it's overkill. The push-button will do me just fine. I don't object to paying for a proper installation, but if it is a simple DIY with the supplied PIAA parts, I might give it a shot.

 

Pretty easy.... That switch is great, you can tape it (double stick foam) onto the horn housing near your left hand. No holes required. I'm using that switch for my Trailtech HIDs.

[Ziggy]

It may not have been designed for external mounting, but I've had the PIAA switch for my 1100s velcroed near the clutch lever base for over 5 years / 50,000+ miles with no problems. It's seen it's share of rain, and it gets wet with the rest of the bike when I wash it. (YMMV)

[wolcott]

Wal-mart carries the posi-lock connectors and posi-seal connectors (more waterproof). Man, those things are neat. I consider myself an electrical novice, yet i was able to mount 2 Hella FF50's, the harness for them, an autoswitch wired to the turn signal cancel button, and an Eastern Beaver headlamp relay wiring harness which really threw some battery voltage to the headlight. Thanks to Alex-Global Rider, and Jim from Eastern Beaver. If I can do it, you can do it, so why not give it a shot?