Ohlins Installation R1200RT Part 2

[Limecreek]

Part 2—ESA Front Shock Removal and Ohlin Shock Installation

 

 

The front shock removal and installation is a little bit more involved and should take you about an hour and a half from start to finish. The Ohlins front shock is much larger than the stock shock so take your time and do not get frustrated as you attempt to maneuver the Ohlin shock into place—it’s a tight fit.

 

Gather your tools:

 

• Torx T-35, T-45, T-50, T-20, T-15 and the T-50 key out of your BMW kit

• 3/8 Drive Ratchet

• Ratchet extension – short one will do

• 15mm socket

• 15 mm offset wrench

• 6 mm hex wrench

• 5 mm hex wrench

• Torque wrench

• Tie clippers

• Blue loctite

• Torch (if smoking cigar)

• Cutter (if smoking cigar)

• Scissor jack

• Short board

• Flashlight

 

Read the BMW manual prior to attempting the installation on your own and refer to it as needed during the process. If you have any doubt as to your ability, spend the money and take it to your dealer or better still, suck up to one of your buddies that does this stuff in his or her sleep and ask them to do you a favor.

 

 

Ok, here we go:

 

Removing the Front ESA Shock

 

1. Remove the seat.

2. Remove the right side fairing—upper and lower.

3. Remove the tank bag rail.

4. Remove the fuel tank cover—and yes you can get this off without removing the left fairing.

 

5. Remove the storage bin or radio compartment. All the screws are on the right hand side.

 

6. Remove the alternator belt cover on the front of the engine.

 

7. Remove the air box snorkel. Unclip at the air box and pull away from the grommet. Careful not to damage it.

 

8. Loosen the brake line on the right side of the steering head—needed for slack.

 

9. Locate the ESA cable leading from the front shock.

10. Clip the zip tie holding it to the frame.

11. Trace the cable all the way up to the plug and disconnect the plug being careful to squeeze the plug while pulling it apart. Pull the plug and not the wires.

 

12. Locate the nut at the top of the shock just in front of the fuel tank. You do not need to pull the tank back to expose the nut on the R1200RT.

 

13. Use a 5 mm hex wrench and a 15 mm offset wrench to remove the nut. The hex wrench will keep the shock from spinning when you start to remove the nut.

 

14. Pull the washer and rubber buffer from the top of the shock and save then for use on the Ohlins shock.

 

15. Caution--Use a spotter to hold the bike during this step. Use a scissor jack to lift the weight off the front wheel. Slip the jack below the engine and use a board between the jack and the engine and raise it slowly. The use of a proper lift is the preferred method, but I don’t have one and used a scissor lift. Be careful! The bike could topple over if you lift it high enough to raise it off the center stand. Don’t drop your bike!

 

16. Remove the lower bolt. You’ll need a T-50 torx and a ratchet.

 

17. You need to lift the bike just high enough to remove the front shock.

18. Once the shock is out remove the spacer and lower rubber buffer for use on the Ohlins shock.

 

Installing the Ohlins Front Shock

 

1. Install the rubber buffer and spacer on the threaded stud at the top of the shock. Sorry, picture out of focus, but you get the idea.

 

2. There isn’t much clearance so you’ll need to raise the front wheel off the ground to get the new shock in place.

3. Use your bike spotter and be careful. The RT could fall over if you are using a scissor jack to lift the motorcycle.

4. Install the upper rubber buffer, and washer.

5. Blue loctite the threads and hand tighten the nut for now.

6. Install the bolt at the bottom of the shock. BMW want you to install a new bolt. I didn’t but will at a later date.

7. You may need to raise or lower the jack to align the lower bolt.

8. Torque the lower bolt to 40Nm.

9. Lower the motorcycle and remove the scissor jacket.

10. Tighten the upper nut to 35 Nm.

 

11. Install the alternator belt guard—this is a tighter fit with the new shock—keep shoving.

12. Install the brake line screw on the right side of the steering head.

13. Install the storage box.

14. Install the snorkel. Lube the grommet for easier installation.

15. Install the fuel tank cover.

16. Install the upper and lower fairings.

17. Install the tank bag rail.

18. Install the seat.

 

The Ohlin shock set for the R1200RT has preload and rebound adjustments only. Compression damping adjustment is not offered. If you are shopping for a set of aftermarket shocks you may want to take this into consideration.

 

The front shock is an Ohlins BM 503 and the rear shock is an Ohlins BM 504. Delivered cost is $1,224 for the set; much less than the replacement cost of ESA.

 

That’s it. Now you are ready to set the sag—I guess we will call that Part 3. I’ll publish that soon.

[Limecreek]

Follow-up....

 

I just got back in from adjusting the Ohlins. The rear wheel hop I was getting from the ESA rear shock is gone. The vague front end feel and slight wobble when banked over in a turn with the ESA suspension is gone. The ride is plush but firm. I could feel the hard edges of most bumps with ESA --the Ohlins smoothed those out.

 

I finally have the RT I was looking for.

[Whip]

Can you meet me in Pennsylvania...and help me dial in the Wilbers???....or just be around when I get back...

 

Whip

[Marty Hill]

Follow-up....

 

I just got back in from adjusting the Ohlins. The rear wheel hop I was getting from the ESA rear shock is gone. The vague front end feel and slight wobble when banked over in a turn with the ESA suspension is gone. The ride is plush but firm. I could feel the hard edges of most bumps with ESA --the Ohlins smoothed those out.

 

I finally have the RT I was looking for.

 

Great news...really happy for you.

Not sked hill country in oct.

[Limecreek]

Anytime....

[Tool Man]

Follow-up....

 

I just got back in from adjusting the Ohlins. The rear wheel hop I was getting from the ESA rear shock is gone. The vague front end feel and slight wobble when banked over in a turn with the ESA suspension is gone. The ride is plush but firm. I could feel the hard edges of most bumps with ESA --the Ohlins smoothed those out.

 

I finally have the RT I was looking for.

 

You've just proven what I've said all along. The ESA gimmic...well maybe wrong choice of words... is just that and a waste of money. Every one who has PM'd me about suspension set up's is dissconteted with the ESA system. To incorporate a remote adjustable suspension system that WORKS....cost's a bundle. Save the $$$, buy an RT of your choice and ditch the still remaining poor excuse for shocks for something that really works.

 

I've been harsh on BMW's choice of suspension since owning one and joining this forum. Why, because they're junk in my opinion, nothing more than springs holding the bike above ground. Once changed out to suspenders that work and dialed in, not a bad scooter in deed.

[Whip]

Follow-up....

 

I just got back in from adjusting the Ohlins. The rear wheel hop I was getting from the ESA rear shock is gone. The vague front end feel and slight wobble when banked over in a turn with the ESA suspension is gone. The ride is plush but firm. I could feel the hard edges of most bumps with ESA --the Ohlins smoothed those out.

 

I finally have the RT I was looking for.

 

You've just proven what I've said all along. The ESA gimmic...well maybe wrong choice of words... is just that and a waste of money. Every one who has PM'd me about suspension set up's is dissconteted with the ESA system. To incorporate a remote adjustable suspension system that WORKS....cost's a bundle. Save the $$$, buy an RT of your choice and ditch the still remaining poor excuse for shocks for something that really works.

 

I've been harsh on BMW's choice of suspension since owning one and joining this forum. Why, because they're junk in my opinion, nothing more than springs holding the bike above ground. Once changed out to suspenders that work and dialed in, not a bad scooter in deed.

 

 

Now ya tell me....and I thought we were friends????

 

Whip

[duckbubbles]

Hi, Greg-

 

Glad your Ohlins installation went well.

Just put the Wilbers on my ST. One difference right off from the pictures you posted- the front shock preload adjustment rings are on the bottom of the shock on the Ohlins, and look like they are accessable without major drama. The adjustment rings on the Wilbers are on the top and I don't see any way to get the wrench in there and make an adjustment. I don't want to take a hammer to them either. I need to make at least two turns to make the sag as I want it. May just bite the bullet and remove it and make the adjustment. Labor intensive, but not marring the rings.

 

By the way- is your bike doing anything like faults on the display with the ESA removed/disabled?

 

See ya around,

Frank

[Whip]

I just put Wilbers on my RT...the tool that came with it was too big...but I found a tool from a GS tool bag with a shorter handle that worked perfect.....

[Limecreek]

You've just proven what I've said all along. The ESA gimmic...well maybe wrong choice of words... is just that and a waste of money. Every one who has PM'd me about suspension set up's is dissconteted with the ESA system. To incorporate a remote adjustable suspension system that WORKS....cost's a bundle. Save the $$$, buy an RT of your choice and ditch the still remaining poor excuse for shocks for something that really works.

 

I couldn't argree with you more.

 

I ride solo and precise handling and ride quality come first. Handling and ride quality trade offs for the convenience of on the fly adjustability is too steep to be acceptable. And then there is the cost--you can purchase a set of Ohlins for the cost of the rear ESA shock.

 

One thing I didn't mention about the Ohlins set-up--the sag was in spec front and back, right out of the box and I only had to take out 4 clicks of rebound front and rear to dial in the suspension.

[Limecreek]

By the way- is your bike doing anything like faults on the display with the ESA removed/disabled?

 

Nada--all is well.

 

 

[duckbubbles]

One thing I didn't mention about the Ohlins set-up--the sag was in spec front and back, right out of the box and I only had to take out 4 clicks of rebound front and rear to dial in the suspension.

 

The Wilbers are set up at 33-34% of total travel sag. I like to run closer to 25% for a taughter ride. I'll give up a little comfort for better handling when pushing it. I am pulling the shock back off this morning, just wanted to check the board for any late breaking news.

 

Frank

[mrzoom]

Nice step by step

For once I made a good decision about buying a bike.

I bought a 2005 last July before the ESA problems were surfacing and I had the chice of 2 bikes same color only diff was ESA. I went with the non-ESA as I knew I was going to install Ohlins anyway and no one at BMW could tell me if disconnecting the ESA would cause fault codes etc.

After seeing your install I believe that my front intall problem was due to a little longer top stud that made getting the shock into the top hole rather hard.

My results were similar. No sag adjustments were needed and the improvements in ride, handling were well worth the price.

Oh ya, about that rug??

[Fran]

Installed my Ohlins last weekend, the installation guideline presented here was of great help. Thank you! Still trying to figure out where to mount the pre-load adjuster. My bike is an 05 non ESA equipped so I had no concerns about the wiring. I found by leaving the rear wheel off I could jack the front high enough without the centerstand lifting, thus providing ample room to install the front shock. Totally transformed the bike, no longer does the front end dive under braking, or full throttle acceleration runs. Well worth the price of admission, and by far less expensive then a pair of Ohlins front forks for a Ducati.

Fran

[lawnchairboy]

thanks for the great post.

[John in VA]

Thanks to Limecreek for this great write-up and photos!

 

I've been meaning to add my two cents after doing this install a few weeks ago. After some frustration with the front shock just not fitting, I put everything back together and tried again the following weekend. The problem was I couldn't get the front wheel/wishbone low enough to fit the bottom mount in. I removed the rear wheel and carefully jacked under the engine to tilt the bike back on its center stand (with a block under the rear axle for safety). This allowed the front suspension to hang low enough to slip the new shock in easily.

 

I also found that it's not necessary to remove the alternator belt cover; the shock can easily be maneuvered in from the front, not up through the wishbone (which is what I originally inferred from the instructions, but the Ohlins spring is too fat for that).

 

For some reason, installing Ohlins on my oilhead RT was a breeze compared the the hexhead, at least in the front. But all the work was well worth the effort -- I got rid of the ESA-gimmick suspension and now have a better-than-new hexhead RT. What a difference!

[r2d2]

what sort of riding are rt riders doing where it is possible to appreciate the value of ohlins?

 

ohlins are excellent suspension components and make a huge difference to the dynamics of a motorcycle in terms of its roadholding and handling. however, this huge difference wouldnt be apparent during the sort of riding the rest of the rt motorcycle chassis and drive train deliver comfortably. surely the oem choice of suspension and tyres on a bmw should be good enough in terms of all the compromises necessary to satisfy a buyer looking at this type of motorcycle? if it was an r1 or gsx that would spend time at track days the expense and hassle would be worth it.

 

having returned from a transcontinental trip last week and ferrying various family members around the city this week i know i would never have adjusted either the preload or the damping to meet the different daily needs the rt had to face. would the ohlins have been better on a few of the hiway ramps with the bike fully loaded and a passenger on board? only if they had been correctly adjusted. the esa meanwhile was sweet as a nut to set up (which is exactly why it is there i guess).

 

most people dont take the trouble to check and adjust tyre pressures for differing loads - suspension? nah, doubt it.

 

esa seems like a good solution for an rt

[John in VA]

what sort of riding are rt riders doing where it is possible to appreciate the value of ohlins?

 

It doesn't take a racerboy to appreciate superior shocks -- and I'm no racerboy. Any roadway that is not a glass-smooth, well-maintained race track is improved by Ohlins -- and that's where they're appreciated most. The main benefit is much better damping under all conditions and loads. The huge size and width of the springs may also be a factor. There are familiar roads in my area with curves with broken or irregular pavement that I've been riding for years, and there is simply no comparing the stock shocks to Ohlins for control, stability and comfort -- whether blasting through or just meandering along. It was as true with my 2000 RT as it is with my 2006 RT. Change out to Ohlins and it's like night and day. To me, better shocks are even more important when really loaded down. The rear doesn't skip out over bumps or get mushy when leaned over for a typical curve. The front tracks true and steps over bumps and ripples instead of pogo-ing over them and making the whole bike frame shudder, and it doesn't dive so much loaded down.

 

To each his/her own, but it's hard to describe; you just have to try it to know.

[Kbasa]

what sort of riding are rt riders doing where it is possible to appreciate the value of ohlins?

 

 

I've got Ohlins on two of our bikes and the best way I can describe them is as having more "bandwidth". They have an ability to smooth small bumps, but also absorb and damp chassis movements over larger bumps.

 

The best way to describe it is that you feel as if you are moving in a straight line through space and the bike's suspension is reaching down to hold the road for you.

 

The benefits for this aren't limited to sport riding. This kind of smooth, controlled ride makes for far less fatigue when riding and more safety. It would be simple to doubt the safety claim, but remember, the purpose of an effectively tuned suspension is to keep the wheels on the ground. When they're on the ground, you can turn, brake and accelerate. Consider the downhill, chatter bumped decreasing radius corner. This is a point where excellently compliant and controlled suspension will keep the wheels on the ground and you off of it.

 

Good suspension, which I don't believe comes with the RT as stock, can completely transform a bike, no matter what manner you'd like to use it.

 

Good suspension, properly set up, requires little adjustment during normal use. The remote preload adjusters that come with Ohlins are for changing the sag of the suspension when carrying a passenger or a load. Rebound damping, once set, is rarely fiddled with again.

 

I bought a standard suspension on my RT, knowing that in 15K miles, I'd be getting rid of the stock shocks for something better. When I was told that a new rear shock was upwards of $1500 (ESA), I knew the right choice would be to upgrade later.

 

That's happening next week.

[r2d2]

what sort of riding are rt riders doing where it is possible to appreciate the value of ohlins?

 

To each his/her own, but it's hard to describe; you just have to try it to know.

 

agree

 

you guys enjoy, a well set up ohlins equipped bike is a lot of fun

[NMSharpy]

thanks Gregory am getting ready to install the Ohlins on my R12ST and this will help immensely dont have the esa so maybe it will go a little easier. Again thanks for the rumnning commentary and pictures

[Limecreek]

Kyle Racing recieved my Ohlins today for rebuild and I expect them back in a week or so. The suggested rebuild interval is 25K miles. My set started showing signs of fatigue around 23K miles, so off they went.

 

I replaced my ESA shocks with Ohlins two years ago. At that time I suggested the use of a proper lift to remove and install the front shock versus the sissor lift method I documented. I took my own advice and purchaed a used lift for $100. Using the lift in conjunction with a sissor lift under the front axle is absolutely the way to go. I had complete control of the bike as I lowered the Telelever far enough to extact the strut.

 

 

Use the lift and the sissor jack to extract the strut from the bike with complete control.

 

 

I decided to install the front and rear ESA shocks temporarily as a precaution while I wait for the Ohlins to return. Without a front shock the front end of the bike does not have anything to hold it up.

[bobbybob]

Greg, was it necessary to remove the front wheel? I installed Ohlins on my R12RT some months back and I thought I left the wheel installed...? Or maybe my memory is worse than I think!

Also, is the center stand touching the floor at all--can't really tell from the pic? (whats the going rate for a rebuild these days?)

[John in VA]

Greg, was it necessary to remove the front wheel? I installed Ohlins on my R12RT some months back and I thought I left the wheel installed...?

 

I didn't take the front wheel off when I installed Ohlins on my old 11RT or on my 12RT.

[Limecreek]

This time around I removed the front wheel. With the front wheel off I didn't need to lift the bike off the center stand--using the lift to hold up the front of the bike and letting the telelever down with the sissor jack.

[bobbybob]

Gregory,

This is probably pretty obvious, but how did you know it was time for a rebuild? Did you just "run out of clicks" or what? I now have 8K miles on my new Ohlins and today I had to add a click to front and rear to get it back to where it was a few months ago--starting to get a little "springy".

 

[Ray R]

I finished installing the front Ohlins on my RT today (did rear yesterday) and got to go out for my first ride. WOW! What a difference. I know I'm cornering faster and more confident than before with the stock shocks.

 

When folks said shocks were the best bang for the buck on the RT, I had my doubts. But I doubt no longer. I'm in love with the RT all over again. It's the bike I had hoped for when I shelled out my hard earned dough a year ago.

[John in VA]

WOW! What a difference. I know I'm cornering faster and more confident than before with the stock shocks.

 

With good shocks, tires actually stay on the pavement and the ride is vastly improved. BMW should be ashamed of resorting to gimmicky ESA to cover up their stock shocks. They don't do that for their cars.

[Ray R]

Not that it really matters, but I didn't have the ESA. At least I saved a few bucks there when I originally bought the bike. After reading all the crap about BMW stock shocks, I knew I was going to change them anyway. And not having the ESA made removing the stock shocks easier too.

[OH Bob]

Greg,

I have an '07 R12RT with ESA and can't thank you enough for your terrific tutorial on the installation of Ohlins shocks, especially the front one!

 

I discovered a great time-saving tip that I believe future installers (of aftermarket shocks) should consider.

 

Last night, after successfully completing the installation of the rear Ohlins shock, I re-read the posts following your great tutorial and hitch-hiked on some ideas presented by previous posters. I really didn't want to take the alternator cover off in order to replace the front shock, and since I had recently replaced the rear wheel and mounted the hydraulic pre-load adjuster I really didn't want to halve to remove the rear wheel either.

 

Bottom line: After securing the center stand to the front crossover exhaust pipe with a suitable tie down strap, with the assistance of a fellow enthusiast, we rocked the bike to one side and placed a small 2x4 under one center stand foot, then did the same procedure to the other center stand foot, so that both feet were supported by a 2x4. By so doing, we were able to remove the front ESA shock and replace it with the Ohlins, after merely jacking up the front portion of the engine! In fact, we kissed the rear tire from the rear with another 2x4, just for additional stability.

 

Again, Greg, your initial post provided the enabler for me to even contemplate this on my own. Thanx so very much!

 

 

[Limecreek]

Greg,

I have an '07 R12RT with ESA and can't thank you enough for your terrific tutorial on the installation of Ohlins shocks, especially the front one!

 

I discovered a great time-saving tip that I believe future installers (of aftermarket shocks) should consider.

 

Last night, after successfully completing the installation of the rear Ohlins shock, I re-read the posts following your great tutorial and hitch-hiked on some ideas presented by previous posters. I really didn't want to take the alternator cover off in order to replace the front shock, and since I had recently replaced the rear wheel and mounted the hydraulic pre-load adjuster I really didn't want to halve to remove the rear wheel either.

 

Bottom line: After securing the center stand to the front crossover exhaust pipe with a suitable tie down strap, with the assistance of a fellow enthusiast, we rocked the bike to one side and placed a small 2x4 under one center stand foot, then did the same procedure to the other center stand foot, so that both feet were supported by a 2x4. By so doing, we were able to remove the front ESA shock and replace it with the Ohlins, after merely jacking up the front portion of the engine! In fact, we kissed the rear tire from the rear with another 2x4, just for additional stability.

 

Again, Greg, your initial post provided the enabler for me to even contemplate this on my own. Thanx so very much!

 

 

Funny you should post this. I helped a local BMWST owner install a new set of Wilbers on his R12RT today and based on your suggestion we decided to skip the alternator cover removal. Mark didn't have any problem at all getting the front shock in position with the alternator cover in place. I must point out that we jacked up the bike with both wheels well off the ground and with 3 men balancing the bike on the bike lift while Mark found home with the front shock.

 

One other key learning today; the lower bolt for the rear shock put up a fight. We just couldn't get it to thread all the way into the swingarm. There was quite a bit of threadlocker on the swingarm threads, preventing the bolt from completely seating itself. Mark and I clean the new bolt of threadlocker and then chased the swingarm threads with a tap---problem solved.

 

There is always something more to learn.