going to try an at home clutch replacement......

[KER]

i have heard wonders about this spline lube dvd that has been made, anyone has a place where i can buy one if they are still available. Is there any "special" tools that are needed, ie: clutch alignment tool? as far as getting then new parts, is there one place that is easier to get them from or is the local dealer the best? thanks for the info, im looking forward into doing this.

[SWB]

Ted is still selling them, as of about 2 weeks ago, when I last checked.

 

Ted's Spline Lube DVD

[Hedge36]

Most of the shops will loan you the proper clutch alignment tool (they really do differ between models), have beer in the trunk to bribe them.

 

Make sure you have your Honda moly paste ahead of time - seems to be a shortage lately.

 

We can probably rattle off a list of parts, and since they're likely in stock at Chicago BMW you'd get them in pretty short order and likely save a bit of coin. I'd recommend doing at least the front pivot bearings while you've got it all apart, too.

 

BTW, I'll buy the DVD off you when you're done with it.

[DEF]

i have heard wonders about this spline lube dvd that has been made, anyone has a place where i can buy one if they are still available. Is there any "special" tools that are needed, ie: clutch alignment tool? as far as getting then new parts, is there one place that is easier to get them from or is the local dealer the best? thanks for the info, im looking forward into doing this.

 

Spline lube is intuitive. The important things are, use the right grease (a GL-2 grease fortified with moly...Honda Molypaste 60 is the choice of most savvy owners and BMW techs). Also, phasing the U-joints is critical. Understand this portion of the reassembly and perform it diligently.

 

Finally, torques are important as is the use of Loctite.

 

Now, clutch replacement, that is a somewhat different story.

Use new fasteners on the clutch replacement. Make sure of your alignment when reinstalling the tranmission.

 

I would recommend the BMW CD for your model. I believe one will cover both your bikes.

 

Are you truly in need of a clutch replacement? The clutch on my my '01 GS with 30,000 miles is like new.

[Hedge36]

Are you truly in need of a clutch replacement? The clutch on my my '01 GS with 30,000 miles is like new.

 

RT-P, likely 60K+? Clutch or not, you can bet he needs a spline lube. But I know what you mean - my '00 GS clutch was pristine at 35K.

[matanuska]

Ditto to all the previous recommendations. My only additional $0.02 would be to make sure to get the parts in your hands before actually starting the work. Since your only doing clutch work, all of the parts should be readily available from most suppliers (like Chicago BMW) but no need to have the bike apart only to find out something is out of stock on your order and delivery time from BMW is running 4 weeks.

 

In addition to the standard clutch parts, you can replace the clutch slave and pushrod as one of those “might as well as long as you’re in there” things. As mentioned, rear Paralever bearings are a good idea too. However, these bearings are standard tapered roller bearings and the inner races can be easily pushed out by hand for inspection. Many times, the rough feeling in these bearings is due to grime and old grease so a thorough cleaning and re-greasing might save you the $60 for a new set. I only mention this because I ordered and installed a new set when I did my clutch but after inspecting, I could have probably reused the old ones. Still, nice to have a new set for the piece of mind. It’s up to you.

[Boffin]

 

Are you truly in need of a clutch replacement? The clutch on my my '01 GS with 30,000 miles is like new.

 

I wore my clutch out in 30K, due mostly to bad technique on downshifts, slipping the clutch out to decelerate the bike instead of upping the revs.

 

Andy

[Hedge36]

Still, nice to have a new set for the piece of mind. It’s up to you.

 

Just as nice to have the perfectly good "old" set sitting on your shelf just in case

 

BTW, nice flag

[DEF]

Are you truly in need of a clutch replacement? The clutch on my my '01 GS with 30,000 miles is like new.

 

RT-P, likely 60K+? Clutch or not, you can bet he needs a spline lube. But I know what you mean - my '00 GS clutch was pristine at 35K.

 

Lubing the clutch spline is worth the price of admission or, the time to do the teardown youeself. Properly used, BMW dry clutches will last 100,000 miles....hence my question....used improperly?...well, Andy said it.........20,000 miles and they're shot.

[KER]

just to give some more information, we actually have 4 bikes in need of new clutches. Two of them are '01 RT-P's, one with 40k, one with 65k, and the last one is a '00 with 88k miles. the '00 has some slipping at high torque and for sure needs to be replaced. The one with 65k has a very long throw on the clutch before is starts to catch and is also starting to slip a little. The one with 40k hasn't slipped yet but has a very long through and feels like is going to give out shortly. My '02 1150RT-P also seems to be getting a little sloppy but does not slip at all and doesnt feel like its going to for a while, and I'm at 40k myself. I was going to start with the 88k mile bike and see how hard it would be to do the replacement and go from there. All of these bikes are used as funeral escort bikes and are ridden very hard, hence the 40k mile clutch replacement.

 

I was also looking at replacing the clutch bearing and possible the clutch neutral switch at the same time, and for sure lubing the splines before I'm done. Ideally we are hoping to save a couple thousand dollars by doing this ourselves and also getting the experience of doing it. Thanks for all your input everyone, dont stop the comments, thanks!

BTW i already ordered the spline lube DVD and am eagerly waiting to view it.

[Hedge36]

just to give some more information, we actually have 4 bikes in need of new clutches. Two of them are '01 RT-P's, one with 40k, one with 65k, and the last one is a '00 with 88k miles. the '00 has some slipping at high torque and for sure needs to be replaced. The one with 65k has a very long throw on the clutch before is starts to catch and is also starting to slip a little. The one with 40k hasn't slipped yet but has a very long through and feels like is going to give out shortly. My '02 1150RT-P also seems to be getting a little sloppy but does not slip at all and doesnt feel like its going to for a while, and I'm at 40k myself. I was going to start with the 88k mile bike and see how hard it would be to do the replacement and go from there. All of these bikes are used as funeral escort bikes and are ridden very hard, hence the 40k mile clutch replacement.

 

I was also looking at replacing the clutch bearing and possible the clutch neutral switch at the same time, and for sure lubing the splines before I'm done. Ideally we are hoping to save a couple thousand dollars by doing this ourselves and also getting the experience of doing it. Thanks for all your input everyone, dont stop the comments, thanks!

BTW i already ordered the spline lube DVD and am eagerly waiting to view it.

 

Oh, it's YOU guys

[K11RS]

Are you truly in need of a clutch replacement? The clutch on my my '01 GS with 30,000 miles is like new.

 

RT-P, likely 60K+? Clutch or not, you can bet he needs a spline lube. But I know what you mean - my '00 GS clutch was pristine at 35K.

 

I'm wondering the same; my '02 1150RT (30K) clutch has begun slipping when accelerating in 5th or 6th(E) gear. And the engagement seems to be pretty drawn out when starting also. Are these all the indicators needed to start down the new clutch path? Thanks Jeff

[RFW]

Properly used, BMW dry clutches will last 100,000 miles

...or more. My '86 K100RT has the original clutch in it, and at nearly 200,000km (well over 100,000 miles) it measures just below "new" thickness.