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New to me R1100RT


thecatholicdad

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thecatholicdad

Hey all! 

 

First time post here.  I have a new to me 1996 R1100RT with 106k miles.  Anybody know if there is a way to check and confirm if the dreaded "hall sensor" has been replaced?  

 

Are the rumors true that these will ALL eventually fail and USUALLY do at about 100k miles?  

 

Thanks everybody for your insight.  This is my first BMW.  Seems like it was babied.  I would love to coax into many more miles.  

 

Thanks!

 

Nic

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Michaelr11

It’s not the sensors, it’s the wires. The original sensor plate used wiring that wasn’t rated for a high temperature environment. The insulation on the individual wires dried out and became brittle, cracking and falling off. This is usually mostly at the end closest to the plate, next to the motor. The damage is hidden under a sheath that covers the wires. Sometimes the wires at the connector also show the cracking and gaps. The connection is under the gas tank right side.  Every 1100RT, R, RS, GS came with these wires and all will fail. The change in the wire came early in the 1150 series.

 

If the wire cable is covered by a tight white sheath, you’re in luck. It was rewired, probably by GSAddict who is an expert at the repair. It may have been replaced by a complete replacement. Closer examination will be required.

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Lowndes

Hey Nick!!

 

WELCOME to the forum!!

 

An EXCELLENT CHOICE if I do say so.  Maybe the most beautiful bike ever made, the R1100RT (and 1150RT). 

 

Looks like you've done (at least some*) of your due diligence on these bikes.  Did you perchance get any maintenance records or know where it was serviced during that 106K??

 

If it has 106K on the clock I'd bet the house the HES has been replaced already.  Mine left at about 30K ('99 R1100RT) several years ago. Left me stranded about a mile from the house, but there was a half mile up hill, so I called in my Roadside Assistance insurance number and eventually got a rollback to take me home.  At least there weren't 100 of my closest friends and their wives waiting on me in the parking lot anxiously waiting on the caterer, all laughing, pointing at me and taking pictures as I arrived last for the day on a rollback and unloaded with a totally spent clutch on my K1300.  

 

It might be able to tell WHERE the HES was purchased (or rebuilt by) by looking at the wiring.  As Michael says above, it's the wiring insulation that falls apart.  Look at these pics to see exactly what he is talking about. https://goo.gl/photos/xriJRtXqd1mHDmZ78  Before and after pics. Look at your wires (it ain't easy getting to them, they're under the tank).

 

image.thumb.png.5c7579a69afb9405051a94098ac64b6c.png  image.thumb.png.7ce8fd332824f534820dff7db7e0a7bc.png

 

 

 

I had mine re-wired by a guy in Canada, Reto Camenisch, or "GSAddict".  Did a superb job as you can see.  A telltale is the clear spaghetti insulation at the terminations.  There are also DIY owners that have fixed it.  And several aftermarket vendors that sell "new" HES units with heat resistant wiring and insulation, EME and Beemer Boneyard.  

 

* Did you find out about the OEM brake lines and the OEM fuel hoses inside the tank??  I'd bet the TB's could use a really good cleaning, too.  The tiny passages to and from the BBS are prone to getting fouled by the black deposits.    https://goo.gl/photos/zvAQ7QXAtYvEgNQQA

 

image.thumb.png.601badce54465ceb17dca090617ee413.png

 

Also, we need pics.  "Or it didn't happen."

 

 

Lowndes

 

image.png

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Miguel!

Another thing to consider is removing the charcoal fuel canister. See Chris Harris’ YouTube video on why and got to do this. Very simple DIY

 

Miguel, 2001 R100RT, 121k miles

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9Mary7
10 hours ago, Lowndes said:

100 of my closest friends and their wives waiting on me in the parking lot anxiously waiting on the caterer, all laughing, pointing at me and taking pictures as I arrived last for the day on a rollback and unloaded with a totally spent clutch on my K1300.  

Good Times these^^^^^:wave:

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thecatholicdad

This is really fantastic information!  Thank you everyone! 

 

My Clymer's manual is on the way, so I may be able to eventually answer my own question....  but is there any chance that there would be a way to visually inspect the hall effect sensor wiring with an endoscope? 

 

I know it's "under the tank" but what do you think?  Could it be done without taking everything apart?

 

I'd love to hear your thoughts and thanks in advance!

 

https://www.amazon.com/Lighted-Borescope-Camera-Semi-Rigid-Adjustable/dp/B0BR7MKHF9/ref=sr_1_1?crid=2K022PXXV1SUC&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.4llxT4G50GBtE2WH-lyPRrQjO_5MhNoXuSi3KsSuwvCBp_ZsKMnYkB7FWgAm342l31Micym-v3mDm9sSfJriFqNhW6BsqpoDLtPc_lpIcJuJPq0zleFWjVqrnD_64gvdbZCIRQhTr7peQeMaPS6kmCAyzjSobpZDZ7bY5LtDyaxknwSghdf0mRU_JpkqdqTQNStftxSCvZlG_DMeIRcwD37_1kAgE5d7moO69RXWlvg.NNrsTiPAEVXI667kaFAnTB8dKrYHa-2ey4OnQN9fFFI&dib_tag=se&keywords=endoscope%2Bcamera%2Biphone%2B13%2Bsemirigid&qid=1718050033&sprefix=endoscope%2Bcamera%2Biphone%2B13%2Bsemirigid%2Caps%2C184&sr=8-1&th=1  

 

image.thumb.png.650a1f2c5ee7285a06370281fb827dec.png

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dirtrider
7 minutes ago, thecatholicdad said:

This is really fantastic information!  Thank you everyone! 

 

My Clymer's manual is on the way, so I may be able to eventually answer my own question....  but is there any chance that there would be a way to visually inspect the hall effect sensor wiring with an endoscope? 

 

I know it's "under the tank" but what do you think?  Could it be done without taking everything apart?

 

I'd love to hear your thoughts and thanks in advance!

 

 

 

Evening thecatholicdad

 

There are a lot of IF's on this one. 

 

It depends on how the HES connector is oriented, if the factory rubber connector cover is still in tact & in place,  if you can actually see enough to make any sort of decision, and IF the small area you could actually see contains the bad parts of the HES wiring. 

 

My suggestion is take whatever money you intend to spend on an endoscope & just put that money towards a new HES, or having your HES rewired.  

 

 

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Dad, my 1100RT had bad wires, broke down in the rain (the wet is a problem with bad wires) on the NY Thruway. The GS Addict rewired mine maybe 20,000 miles ago, all is well. I thought the whole HES is accessible from the engine front cover... Dave

 

ps, what color RT?

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Redfoxx

My guess also is that you will be in the fuel tank sooner than later. I have the r1150RT,  You can likely have the tank off in 30 minutes. Most of the time is the 50 screws to get down to the tank.

 

Once the tupperware off, you will be able to check battery, fuel hoses, throttle body sync, plugs, valves, tank- hoses, filter,   tigers, bears and elephants. 

You will find a laundry list of stuff to check and or replace, while the fairing is off. 

Once your done under there you then get to ride. 

 

Red Fox

 

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Red is right, you probably should take the tank off, give her a new fuel filter and inside tank hoses, put new stainless brake lines on her (with a good complete fluid flush including the abs block). Im getting ready to replace the final drive pivot bearings, yours might need those also. New alternator belt (you will have it off anyway if you pull the HES). Great bikes, my 96 has 133k! Dave

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Redfoxx
2 hours ago, Dave P said:

Red is right, you probably should take the tank off, give her a new fuel filter and inside tank hoses, put new stainless brake lines on her (with a good complete fluid flush including the abs block). Im getting ready to replace the final drive pivot bearings, yours might need those also. New alternator belt (you will have it off anyway if you pull the HES). Great bikes, my 96 has 133k! Dave

Dave,

Bought my RT and I did about $1500 maintenance to it. I had to do tires too. in 8 months I think i took tupperware off to do maintenance 6 times. I should should bought it all at once and did it all at once.   I found complete brake line set for $60 on the net they where Galfers or my $'s would have been higher. 

 

RF

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Red- you know how it is- you but a new toy and want to go play with it. Who wants to (do the right thing) and take it apart and wrench on it for 2 months? That's why we take the plastic off 6 times!  D

IMG_0887.jpeg

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Redfoxx
5 hours ago, Dave P said:

Red- you know how it is- you but a new toy and want to go play with it. Who wants to (do the right thing) and take it apart and wrench on it for 2 months? That's why we take the plastic off 6 times!  D

IMG_0887.jpeg

exactly it the weather was nice in February, no salt and no 6 feet of snow like the year before. It is surprising how the list grows when you buy a 20 year old unknown, do it all, check it all. I had charcoal through the whole full system 

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