Left combination switch failing - cruise control malfunction, 2011 R1200RT, 57K mi.

[pwillikers]

The cruise control on my '11 R12RT has begun to fail.  It is fine in the morning cold but as the day's heat builds, the malfunctions start. The cruise shuts itself off, then it won't set the speed, etc.  It is a classic presentation of a failed combination switch.

 

I called BMW Customer Service.  They say this bike had it replaced in 2015 so I'm not eligible for another replacement.

I called the local dealer, Ride Now Austin, and got essentially the same story.  You're on your own.

 

May I pick your brains on how to best proceed?

 

Has anyone successfully "rewired" the insides of this switch with actual wires as opposed to the printed circuit?

 

If I ultimately have to replace it, is there a way to tell if the replacement part is the latest version (which is purported to have a forever fix)?

 

These things are shockingly expensive.

[dirtrider]

24 minutes ago, pwillikers said:

The cruise control on my '11 R12RT has begun to fail.  It is fine in the morning cold but as the day's heat builds, the malfunctions start. The cruise shuts itself off, then it won't set the speed, etc.  It is a classic presentation of a failed combination switch.

 

I called BMW Customer Service.  They say this bike had it replaced in 2015 so I'm not eligible for another replacement.

I called the local dealer, Ride Now Austin, and got essentially the same story.  You're on your own.

 

May I pick your brains on how to best proceed?

 

Has anyone successfully "rewired" the insides of this switch with actual wires as opposed to the printed circuit?

 

If I ultimately have to replace it, is there a way to tell if the replacement part is the latest version (which is purported to have a forever fix)?

 

These things are shockingly expensive.

Evening pwillikers

 

You could rewire it to new switch's. Are you sure that it is the combination switch? The heat thing does sort of point that way but it could be something like the clutch switch acting up with heat also.  

 

Can you get a GS-911 on it to verify what actually is the failure? 

 

Or try running cruise control test. 

 

With the ignition switch OFF, switch on the cruise control.

 

Then)- Press and hold the SET button to the SET position, then turn on the Ignition switch (SET LIGHT should come on) 

 

Next)- Release the SET button (LIGHT THEN GOES OFF), move to RESET position (Resume) position (LIGHT SHOULD BE ON) 

 

Next)- Release the button (LIGHT SHOULD BE OFF) 

 

Next)- Switch OFF the cruise control switch (LIGHT SHOULD BE ON)

 

Next)- Switch the cruise control switch back to on (LIGHT SHOULD BE OFF) 

 

Next)- Close throttle (all the way past normal). (LIGHT SHOULD BE ON), release throttle. (LIGHT GOES OFF)

 

Next)- Pull clutch lever (LIGHT ON), release clutch lever (LIGHT OFF) 

 

Next)- Pull front brake lever (LIGHT ON), release lever (LIGHT OFF) 

 

Next)- Push foot brake pedal (LIGHT ON), hold for 5 seconds (LIGHT SHOULD GO OFF), release foot brake pedal (LIGHT SHOULD BE ON)

 

Next)- Rotate rear wheel (LIGHT SHOULD GO OFF/ON) 

 

Last)-  Switch off ignition. 

[pwillikers]

Thank you D.R.

 

I read many of the relevant posts herein and my symptoms seemed to point pretty clearly to a bad combination switch.

 

I have performed the C.C. tests you recommended.  It fails the first test (and all subsequent tests). 

C.C. in on position, Set lever held forward in set position, turn on ignition, SET light does not come on.  I don't know how to interpret this result.

 

Given that the C.C. operation is perfect when it's cold, do I have to induce a failed state prior to performing the GS-911 diagnostic tests to achieve illustrative results or is the above result sufficient?

 

I have a GS-911 (and Motoscan).   I am unaware of GS-911 C.C. diagnostics and I couldn't find any C.C. tests in the GS-911 windows application.  Any pointers would be helpful.

 

You are a tremendous resource to all who frequent this website.

[dirtrider]

22 hours ago, pwillikers said:

 

 

I have performed the C.C. tests you recommended.  It fails the first test (and all subsequent tests). 

C.C. in on position, Set lever held forward in set position, turn on ignition, SET light does not come on.  I don't know how to interpret this result.

 

 

Evening pwillikers

 

Does it pass the first test when cold & operating OK?  It should!

 

You don't have an add-on or strange rear tail/brake light do you? 

 

 

[pwillikers]

I've performed the C.C. test multiple times.  While failing on the first test repeatedly, even when cold, it now passes all tests repeatedly. 

 

I pulled the switch apart to see if I could identify and repair a cracked trace to the C.C. SET button.  The inside of my left combination switch, which was replaced in 2015, looks very different from the pictures of the internals of the switches posted on the web documenting where ambitious folks had attempted rewiring their switches.

 

From this I infer that I have a newer (newest?) version of the switch.  Is there any way to identify the actual part number of the switch I have which is pictured above?  REALOEM shows one active part number and five deprecated part numbers.    I don't consider this switch to be repairable and, if faulty, must be entirely replaced.   The most recent part number, 61318550033, is $706.25   UGH.            

 

I do have an accessory tail/brake/turn signal license plate frame LED contraption installed by the previous owner.   I left it installed after I purchased the bike for no good reason.  It has caused no problems for the last 15K miles so I kind of doubt it's the problem but in any case, I'll wait for the failure to reappear and disconnect the contraption entirely to see if it's the culprit.  (D.R., thanks for that rather obscure pointer).

[dirtrider]

1 hour ago, pwillikers said:

I've performed the C.C. test multiple times.  While failing on the first test repeatedly, even when cold, it now passes all tests repeatedly. 

 

I pulled the switch apart to see if I could identify and repair a cracked trace to the C.C. SET button.  The inside of my left combination switch, which was replaced in 2015, looks very different from the pictures of the internals of the switches posted on the web documenting where ambitious folks had attempted rewiring their switches.

 

From this I infer that I have a newer (newest?) version of the switch.  Is there any way to identify the actual part number of the switch I have which is pictured above?  REALOEM shows one active part number and five deprecated part numbers.    I don't consider this switch to be repairable and, if faulty, must be entirely replaced.   The most recent part number, 61318550033, is $706.25   UGH.            

 

I do have an accessory tail/brake/turn signal license plate frame LED contraption installed by the previous owner.   I left it installed after I purchased the bike for no good reason.  It has caused no problems for the last 15K miles so I kind of doubt it's the problem but in any case, I'll wait for the failure to reappear and disconnect the contraption entirely to see if it's the culprit.  (D.R., thanks for that rather obscure pointer).

Evening  pwillikers

 

I have seen a couple of cruise control issues in the past caused by add-on rear lighting. They wouldn't pass the cruise control test until the rear aftermarket lighting was disconnected. I never tracked down what problem is was causing I just disconnected it & told the owner to find a different system.

 

I can't help you with the latest updated switches as I am on the road today with no access to my information. 

 

A lot of the later switches went to foil type switches, those are usually the ones that worked cold but not hot (like out in the sun hot). 

[pwillikers]

Thank you D.R.,

 

I'm very interested to know if you are able to provide any clarity concerning the differences between these two parts, numbered:  61318550033 and 61318546209.  Are they substantially the same, apparently new and improved, technology, as pictured above?  If so, there would be more latitude procuring a replacement.  

 

Owning this bike would be much less enjoyable absent your sage guidance.  Thanks again for your excellent service to this community.  :-)

[Indy Dave]

@pwillikers  I thought I would share this possible fix. I had this same issue on my camhead - that also had the switch cluster replaced under the recall. It's been a few years since I had this issue and I found a used cluster and replaced mine, all good now.

 

BUT . . . I have this guys bike here at the house for some work, and I notice what he's done - and I'm sure this would have worked on mine. I recall the cruise would go back to working if I pressed the on/off switch back to off and then firmly back to on...... and it would set until if would just shut off. The point being that the switch would re-activate, and then vibration or a bump breaks the signal and Poof! off it goes. There are of course other inputs that could be causing the fault you have, but this will cost nothing to try.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[pwillikers]

Thank you Indy Dave,

 

I believe (hope) that BMW's five iterations of this part, the left combination switch,  have ultimately fixed the cracking trace issues suffered by earlier iterations of this part where several of the switches functions, not just the C.C. on/off function, were failing.  And, that I have a most recent iteration installed.  Thus far, my only issue with this switch has been the C.C. on/off operation.  And, I agree with you that the C.C. on/off button inside switch is most likely the problem hence, the safety wire repair proves effective.  For reference, it is the cylindrical orange button, angled upwards in the left of the picture I posted above. 

 

I have pretty good access to the button when the switch is opened up.  I temporarily "shimmed" the top of the button with the tip of a small screwdriver and moved the C.C. switch on and off.  This had the effect of depressing the button farther in its travel than it would in normal operation.  This seems to have (temporarily) improved the operation.  The C.C. now turns on and off reliably and passes the C.C. test suggested by D.R.

 

I'm considering prying inside the C.C. on/off button's orange rubber cover and saturating the inner workings with electrical contact cleaner.  And/or gluing a permanent "shim" to the top of the button,  And/or shorting the two C.C. on/off circuit traces together on the printed circuit thereby having the C.C. permanently "on".   I'll also try the safety wire "repair" (but probably with a zip tie) as a temporary roadside repair the next time it fails which should give a strong indication that the failure lies solely with the C.C. on/off button and nowhere else.

 

In any case, lots of things to try.   I wouldn't embark on any of these shenanigans if the switch didn't cost $700+.

[Hati]

9 hours ago, pwillikers said:

I'm considering prying inside the C.C. on/off button's orange rubber cover and saturating the inner workings with electrical contact cleaner. 

 

That is not the problem you are having. Sounds like the CC switch simply does not push the button far enough so the contact inside is not made. What you need is increase the button's thickness to duplicate the screwdriver under it. You can do that with glue that hardens from UV light. Couple of drops at the time UV treated can easily create enough extra thickness to reliably press the switch.

 

I would not pull off the orange hat, you will have new problems to fix in all likelihood.  

[pwillikers]

SOLVED: Occam's Razor rules the day.

 

After convincing myself that the C.C. on/off button in the left combination switch was causing my C.C.'s misbehavior, I decided I'd replace the entire switch as opposed to dissembling and attempting to repair it. I was able to source a replacement switch from ebay.

 

The four wire electrical connector for the C.C. handlebar switch is under the front of the fuel tank. I pulled the relevant body parts and lifted the front of the tank to put an eyeball on the C.C. connector. As I manually traced the wire towards the connector, the slightest touch caused the male/female halves of the connector to come apart. The C.C. connector was not, and apparently had not been, fully seated, probably since the combination switch was replaced under warranty in 2015.

 

I cleaned the contacts, reassembled everything (using the original combination switch) and went for a ride. The C.C. is performing flawlessly. I've not put in enough miles to conclusively declare it fixed but, I am 90% confident it is fixed.

 

"The simplest explanation is usually the best one."