A Motorcycle Get Away in British Columbia

[MotoNews]

Published in: Rides

Ride Report from an RN During COVID

Amid the chaos of the COVID19 pandemic, I needed to find the quiet serenity that comes on two wheels. As a nurse educator in a trauma-based tertiary hospital, I’m deep in the trenches, responsible for disseminating information and implementing health regulations to frontline workers. Inundated with fear from global news, increasing numbers of the infected, lack of resources, and a palpable universal panic as the world began to shut down, I needed to be away from it all for a while.

We decided to take a few well-earned days off and head to the north end of Vancouver Island to explore the remote roads. Cognizant of the risks, we intended to take social distancing to another level, bypassing small communities to avoid jeopardizing anyone.

Bike prep complete, camera batteries charged, emergency gear packed, I threw a couple of days of clothes into my Mosko Moto Reckless 40L system and we were off. After three hours we landed in Campbell River, our temporary home base, and checked into one of the few hotels still operating. I had mixed feelings about the “stay home” direction relentlessly hammered into us and the public’s perception of what that meant. With no clear order to stay home, we were not quarantined, nor were we shut in. Everyone was expected to show up for work where required, purchase groceries, and attend to personal matters, so why was there so much rancor among people when it came to getting out to exercise and taking care of one’s well-being? The risk of injury and need for emergency workers is no higher riding a bike on logging roads than driving to a store in heavy traffic. I knew there might be some backlash from those who took the meaning of “stay home” literally, but being medically versed, I knew that recharging mentally and physically could be done safely.

It was a surreal time to travel, as the Provincial Government had just ordered the closure of all provincial parks, which would influence some of the sights we wished to see. Everywhere we went, we found red-tape barriers and large “CLOSED” signs. As much as it was a source of frustration, it was not surprising given the knee-jerk reactions happening globally; it was all new, and it was all very frightening.

However, I did find it strange that although we were in an isolated area of the island, we did not pass a soul as we ventured along some backroads, yet there were roped-off trails and closed boat launches. At the time, it made little sense to restrict outdoor recreation and similar activities that could be done with minimal-to-no interaction with others. All this prevented us from enjoying walks or merely soaking up the natural forests that make up British Columbia’s many parks. Ironically, in urban areas, the stores were packed, gas stations lined up, and people jammed into any location that provided peace and tranquility. But despite park restrictions, there was a bright side—no tourist traffic meant the solitude to explore the areas north of Strathcona Provincial Park, the oldest provincial park in British Columbia and the largest on Vancouver Island, with some of the highest peaks of the island.

On our first day, we headed along Highway 28 and passed a closed lodge complete with a bear statue wearing gloves and a mask, a telling sign of things to come. Once the tree-lined road opened up, we were awestruck by Buttle Lake and the surrounding snow-capped mountains. “Stunning” doesn’t quite describe the stark contrast of turquoise blue water and white peaks. The road provided some gentle curves, and along its 14 miles, we found a few areas to pull off to capture some images. The serenity of the sights and the resplendent scenery calmed the pent-up disquiet and stress gathered since the onset of COVID19.

The next day, we hit Highway 28 again but crossed upper Campbell River and followed it, heading west and passing through the small town of Gold River. Located close to the geographic center of Vancouver Island, it’s considered part of the “North Island,” even though it is technically on the island’s west coast. Gold River was a prototypical logging, pulp, and paper industry community but since the mill closed in 1998, the village has attempted to increase its tourism. The idyllic setting among picturesque mountains, lakes, rivers, ocean, and forests, along with sport fishing tourism, has become its primary economic support.

Gold River also serves as a historical point, being the closest village to the famous Yuquot, otherwise known as the “Friendly Cove,” where British explorer Captain James Cook first set ashore in April 1778 and met the Mowachaht’s Chief, Maquinna. It was surreal to stand in the same location in April 2020, some 242 years later.

Ray and I decided to make a run to the end of Highway 28, south of Gold River, and were rewarded with incredible waterfalls en route, definitely worth a stop if you are heading that way. At its terminus, Muchalat Inlet, Nootka Sound is the quintessential marine access to a remote village. Interestingly, there are many villages scattered throughout British Columbia that remain only accessible by boat or plane. Complete with Nootka Air floatplanes, an old mill, boat jetty, and a mermaid, this charming site welcomed us. I could not help but reach out for that gold nugget offered by the mermaid statue and was captivated by a plaque commemorating Luna, the Killer Whale, believed to be a powerful symbol of prosperity and long life for the aboriginal people of Canada’s west coast. Legends say that the souls of fishermen reincarnate as Orca whales, and in the intriguing case of an Orca they called “Luna,” the Mowachaht-Muchalat people believed this true.

In 2001 Luna, also known as “L98” or “Tsux’iit,” was seen in Nootka Sound as far inland as the marina at Gold River. Just days before he first appeared, a long-term, well-respected chief of the Mowachaht-Muchalat passed away. It’s said this chief told his people that he fully expected to return as a killer whale, and legend has it that Luna was the chief.

Luna soon became a celebrity, even garnering international attention with his playful and curious behavior among the lumber tugboats and recreational watercraft on Nootka Sound. He also engaged people, including young children, on the Gold River dock. Luna made Gold River an international attraction from early 2002 through March 2006, when he was tragically killed in a collision with a tugboat propeller. The community still acknowledges how Luna unified them through historical and cultural ties with the Killer Whales.

In terms of riding, the route back to Campbell River would be our most exciting. Venturing off road between Gold River and Woss, we spent almost the entire day for what should have been a straightforward route north, and ended with a wrong turn. We took that glorious opportunity to ride the logging tributaries and take photos, surrounded by the natural beauty of the mountains, lakes, and rivers unencumbered by traffic and crowds. This was a blessing that gave me an ear-to-ear grin that wouldn’t stop. Ray and I crossed multiple bridges and found ourselves forging through dual-track paths. It was as magnificent as it was peaceful. One can easily get lost in the vastness of this off-road heaven, and we did.

Each turn took us deeper into the thick of the forest and the shadow of the mountains. It was a nature lover’s haven, a photographer’s delight, and a dual-sport rider’s dream. Luckily, we are passionate for all three.

The freedom to be without a mask, to escape the pressures of a society in the throes of chaos and the unknown, made it a much-needed release for me. I do not doubt that Ray also feels the pandemic’s impact and our “new normal” that includes the ramifications of my job. He, too, was deserving of this respite. In my opinion, society often forgets the need to take care of the whole self, including our emotional and mental well-being. Thankfully, with support from my spouse and the sanctuary of an Africa Twin Adventure Sports, I received the reprieve needed to prepare for the pandemic battle once again. The fight against COVID19 is lingering into 2021, and this short trip became essential to feeling rested, rejuvenated, and ready to tackle it once again.

An adventure motorcycle is an incredible partner to explore with, and this beautiful island was all I needed. Throttle therapy is indeed a “thing”!

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Cheryl Jones is a Registered Nurse and mother of three who has discovered a passion for adventure riding. She has traveled through Europe, Africa and most recently part of Asia on two wheels. An avid photographer, Cheryl enjoys the candid capture and a love for writing. You can find Cheryl on Instagram beastrider_111 or beastrider_11.

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