1995 R1100RS new purchase. Brake ABS bleeding question.

[P1k1968]

Just bought a lovely 95 R1100RS off of the original owner.  Non functioning front brakes, scored cylinder.

I replaced the brake cylinder and am bleeding the brakes.  The previous stressed a couple of different times NOT to mess with the ABS bleeders.  I have been making progress bleeding conventionally thru the caliper bleeders.  I am prepared to carry on this way, if it will ultimately work.

 

The ABS is flashing alternately, and as far as I can figure, this maybe related to battery voltage, or a system error.  Not sure how to diagnose the problem.

 

I rode it for a half hour before the front brake became too soft to be safe, and refilled/re-bled the system.  The brake feel is much better, but there is still some air in there, as constant pressure will eventually bring the lever to the bar.

 

So....

Should I keep at it with the conventional bleed?

Should I reverse bleed it with some kind of large syringe?

Why would the previous owner be so adamant not to touch the abs bleeders, what's the danger?

How to get more information on the abs fault?

What's the point of the ABS switch on the left side of the fairing?

 

Thanks,

Andy

 

[dirtrider]

3 hours ago, P1k1968 said:

Just bought a lovely 95 R1100RS off of the original owner.  Non functioning front brakes, scored cylinder.

I replaced the brake cylinder and am bleeding the brakes.  The previous stressed a couple of different times NOT to mess with the ABS bleeders.  I have been making progress bleeding conventionally thru the caliper bleeders.  I am prepared to carry on this way, if it will ultimately work.

 

The ABS is flashing alternately, and as far as I can figure, this maybe related to battery voltage, or a system error.  Not sure how to diagnose the problem.

 

I rode it for a half hour before the front brake became too soft to be safe, and refilled/re-bled the system.  The brake feel is much better, but there is still some air in there, as constant pressure will eventually bring the lever to the bar.

 

So....

Should I keep at it with the conventional bleed?

Should I reverse bleed it with some kind of large syringe?

Why would the previous owner be so adamant not to touch the abs bleeders, what's the danger?

How to get more information on the abs fault?

What's the point of the ABS switch on the left side of the fairing?

 

Thanks,

Andy

 

Afternoon Andy

 

You probably need to start by bench bleeding the front master cylinder. That most likely has a lot of air trapped in it so bleeding that out through the bottom is very/very difficult. 

 

To do that, fill the front master cylinder reservoir then slowly work the hand lever only about 1" or so (just enough to get air to back up through the take-up port hole in the bottom of the reservoir (do not pull the lever full stroke).

 

Once you get to the point that no air comes up from the bottom of the reservoir at lever release then move on to bleed at the calipers using a full stroke & catch container.  Put a hose on the front caliper bleeder then terminate that hose in the catch container UNDER  the fluid in the catch container (hose end must be below fluid level in the catch container). The hose ending below fluid level acts like check valve allowing full lever pumping with no need to close the bleed screw. 

 

Then with the caliper bleeder open start pumping the hand lever (get a lot of continuous fluid flow), caution: do not run the reservoir out of fluid.

 

That should give you a decent lever feel but you will probably still have some air trapped in the ABS module. You will probably have to bleed at the ABS module bleeders to get all the air out. 

 

As for the flashing ABS lights. EXACTLY when do they go from flashing together to flashing alternately? At key ON, or during engine cranking, or at first brake usage? This hopefully will tell where to start looking for the problem.

 

 

 

  

 

 

[P1k1968]

As soon as the ignition key is turned on, the abs lights are alternately flashing.

[dirtrider]

1 minute ago, P1k1968 said:

As soon as the ignition key is turned on, the abs lights are alternately flashing.

Afternoon Andy

 

Then first bleed the system.

 

Then try an ABS reset__   

 

 

First, find the diagnostic connector (located under the seat). 

 

Then, insert one end of a wire into the middle socket of that connector. 

 

Then, ground the other end of that wire to a (clean) metal part of frame or good ground area (make sure it stays grounded). 

 

Next, turn on ignition switch. You should now see the warning lights flash alternately.  

 

Next, hold ABS button down for a long 8 seconds (possibly slightly longer). The bottom ABS light should stay on, and the top light should be off. 

 

Then, release the ABS button. If you have successfully reset the ABS system then both ABS lights will come on. If you have failed to hold button for 8 seconds, or your ground is not good, then the top ABS light will probably stay off.

 

Remove grounding wire.

 

If that doesn't help then we will have to dig in farther (possibly stuck ABS pump pistons) or wiring issue or ????
 

[Michaelr11]

6 hours ago, P1k1968 said:

The ABS is flashing alternately, and as far as I can figure, this maybe related to battery voltage, or a system error.  Not sure how to diagnose the problem.

DR is giving you good advice. On your 1100RS, lovely bike btw, the ABS2 system should flash both lights together when the key is first turned on. If the lights flash alternately at key on, you have a captured fault code. You have to perform the reset to clear that fault code.  Low battery voltage when you press the start button is the only fault code that clears when you turn off the key. It appears right after you start the bike and before you try to roll away. You can try one other thing. After you bleed enough to get a reasonably good lever feel, pump it to get firm pressure and then put enough rubber bands on the lever and grip to hold the front lever firmly. Leave it like that overnight.

 

Where are you located?

 

[P1k1968]

I am near Lancaster PA.

tried the reset, no difference.  Well the lights did flash together while riding right after the reset, they did not go out as I built up speed.  But started flashing alternately as soon as restarted it.  I did a short test ride, lost about half of the reservoir. No obvious leaks no time to re bleed tonight. As soon as power on they are flashing alternately, and stay that way the whole time.

 

while doing the reset they always flash intermittently, never get the solid lower light on.

[dirtrider]

11 hours ago, P1k1968 said:

I am near Lancaster PA.

tried the reset, no difference.  Well the lights did flash together while riding right after the reset, they did not go out as I built up speed.  But started flashing alternately as soon as restarted it.  I did a short test ride, lost about half of the reservoir. No obvious leaks no time to re bleed tonight. As soon as power on they are flashing alternately, and stay that way the whole time.

 

while doing the reset they always flash intermittently, never get the solid lower light on.

Morning Andy

 

If the lights start flashing alternately at key on that is usually a faulty ABS module, if they only start flashing alternately at engine cranking then that is usually either a low cranking voltage issue or an internal ABS module issue. In your case you did a hot engine restart  & still got the alternately flashing lights so in most cases that doesn't point to a low cranking voltage issue but it isn't totally eliminated either.  

 

Do another reset, then ride it, then JUST turn the key on, do not start engine__ What are the lights doing???? 

 

If that motorcycle was stored or sat for long while you could easily have a stuck piston or pistons inside the ABS module. That could also explain the loss of 1/2 reservoir of fluid as those cylinders can store a lot of fluid if a piston moves down. (your ABS-2  system uses a rotating shaft, clutches & movable displacement pistons to provide ABS function). It's an old (rather crude) SLOW reacting ABS system. 

 

Personally I would just remove the ABS system,  that gives more predictable braking, a LOT less future issues,  easier to bleed, less weight up high where it matters. 

 

I don't know what the laws are in your area as far as safety inspections go but the 1100RS was available without ABS so if it is all removed & re-plumbed properly then they probably wouldn't even know that it was supposed to have ABS. 

 

Removing the ABS-2 system on the BMW 1100 is very easy as it only takes a short piece of brake pipe for the rear, or just buying a longer rear brake hose (if you have an aftermarket rear brake hose it might already be long enough as is).  The front can usually just use the stock hoses by flipping the hose junction block.

 

If you are above average in mechanical ability you can also remove & disassemble the ABS  module then clean it out & sometimes restore function but in (my opinion) it isn't worth the bother as even at it's best that ABS-2 system is slow, unpredictable, tends to release the front brake when you don't want it to, & doesn't work worth a hoot on very slippery road surfaces. 

 

You can also just mask the dash lights & ride it without active ABS but that leaves the weight, complexity, & visible remains (if your state has safety inspections). 

 

If you have access to an old analog 12v DC  voltmeter you can try to grab the ABS faults but that is kind of iffy & the fault code list is short as it only checks for a few main faults. Those COULD be the issue or issues, or could just be set because of a non-related issue causing one of those to set. 

 

In your case it doesn't even seem to be working long enough, or correct enough, to set a useful or meaningful fault. 

 

 

My somewhat educated guess from past experiences is that you probably have a stuck piston or pistons inside the ABS module. 

 

You can call ModuleMasters as they can probably repair it but at a cost that probably isn't worth the bother. 

  

 

 

[P1k1968]

I think you are probably right regarding a mechanical issue with the ABS unit.  

The alternating lights are on as soon as power is on, they have only briefly flashed together after a reset but they did not go out at all even 

when I was up to 40mph.  Once I turned off the engine and restarted it, they were back to alternate flashing.

 

I used about a half reservoir of fluid while doing a short 10 mile ride last night.  I will look into removing the system.

 

Andy

[dirtrider]

5 minutes ago, P1k1968 said:

I think you are probably right regarding a mechanical issue with the ABS unit.  

The alternating lights are on as soon as power is on, they have only briefly flashed together after a reset but they did not go out at all even 

when I was up to 40mph.  Once I turned off the engine and restarted it, they were back to alternate flashing.

 

I used about a half reservoir of fluid while doing a short 10 mile ride last night.  I will look into removing the system.

 

Andy

Morning Andy

 

You need to pay attention to EXACTLY when the lights start flashing alternately.

 

If at the instant of initial key-ON?

 

Or at engine cranking? 

 

It makes a difference.

 

The flashing together doesn't tell you much, it's instant they go from flashing together to flashing alternately that you need to define. 

 

 

[P1k1968]

As soon as I turn the key, the ABS lights flash alternately.

 

When I do the reset procedure, they never vary from flashing alternately.  No solid lower light when restting.

 

Andy

[dirtrider]

26 minutes ago, P1k1968 said:

As soon as I turn the key, the ABS lights flash alternately.

 

When I do the reset procedure, they never vary from flashing alternately.  No solid lower light when restting.

 

Andy

Morning Andy

 

That usually points to one of 3 things. 

 

It needs to be reset (you did that & it didn't help) 

 

Or a failed ABS module (typically a stuck piston or pistons). If it sat a long time then possibly also etched pistons & cylinder bores). 

 

Or possibly a failed ABS motor relay (under a sliding cover on the side of the ABS module). 

 

Maybe a 4th possibility, no 12v B+ on the red wire going to that ABS motor power relay. That red wire comes directly from the battery B+ post (no fuse). 

[P1k1968]

I guess the next steps are to pull the tank and look at the relay and the battery connection then.  I don’t hear any relays when I turn the key on.

[dirtrider]

13 minutes ago, P1k1968 said:

I guess the next steps are to pull the tank and look at the relay and the battery connection then.  I don’t hear any relays when I turn the key on.

Morning Andy

 

You won't hear that ABS motor relay as it only comes on to run the ABS shaft motor. 

 

You can hear the ABS relay in the fuse box click but that just lights and/or flashes one of the ABS dash lights (has no effect on the actual ABS operation).

 

  

 

[P1k1968]

Is the relay part of the self check that could be causing the alternating flashing lights?

If it is not, then I guess its not the immediate cause of the problem

[dirtrider]

2 minutes ago, P1k1968 said:

Is the relay part of the self check that could be causing the alternating flashing lights?

If it is not, then I guess its not the immediate cause of the problem

Morning Andy

 

Yes & no, it is part of the ride away test but I don't think it is part of the key-ON electrical test. 

 

If your dash  lights are flashing alternately at initial key-ON then that is well before the ride-away motor test. 

 

But that relay is controlled by the ABS electronics so it might be looking for the relay pull-in coil low side B+ at key ON. (I don't think it makes a difference but I can't say for certain without testing a known good system) 

 

I have seen both a failed ABS motor power relay & the motor itself trigger a fault after ride-away but I can't remember seeing it set a key-ON alternating light flash (but that doesn't mean that it doesn't, it just means that I can't remember seeing it).  

[P1k1968]

Making progress, while bleeding the brakes (again), I heard a faint "whistle", found a compromised brake line.  I ordered the Spiegler Performance SS brake kit.

While having the fuel tank lifted out of the way, I checked out the battery voltage and connections.  All seemed good.

 

So, ABS no closer.  But I should at least have a functioning non abs system soon.

 

Cheers,

Andy

[P1k1968]

Installed the Spiegler hoses, now i have fluid coming out the right side of the abs unit, about half way up.

 

Going to look at bypass kits or a replacement used unit.

 

Andy

[dirtrider]

20 minutes ago, P1k1968 said:

Installed the Spiegler hoses, now i have fluid coming out the right side of the abs unit, about half way up.

 

Going to look at bypass kits or a replacement used unit.

 

Andy

Afternoon  Andy

 

It almost sounds like someone had that ABS module apart & didn't get it back together & sealing properly. 

 

You don't really need a kit, front parts will work as-is with a flip/minor grind of front hose to line junction block. Rear will just need a new short pipe between master cylinder & hose, or just a slightly longer hose (direct from master cylinder to caliper).  

 

Then just remove the ABS light relay from the fuse box.

[P1k1968]

I found a decent looking used unit on ebay.  For the $100 i might get lucky and get a functioning unit, or at the very least one that is not leaking.  

[P1k1968]

Progress made.  

 

Brakes fully bled, ABS unit replaced with a used one.  Still have alternate flashing abs lights, resetting the ABS does not work, but at least its not leaking and i can ride it now.

 

New problem, won't rev above 4k, starts missing, like its fuel related.  Bike has been sitting for a while, I put fresh gas in and a treatment for water in gas.  We shall see.

Maybe fuel filter/pump?  I had the tank over on its side while i was working on the ABS, left everything connected..

 

Any ideas?

 

Andy

[dirtrider]

On 4/30/2024 at 9:22 PM, P1k1968 said:

I found a decent looking used unit on ebay.  For the $100 i might get lucky and get a functioning unit, or at the very least one that is not leaking.  

Afternoon P1k1968

 

Start at the throttle bodies, make sure that both side throttle cams lift off the base idle screws at the exact same time. Then make sure that both sides hit the wide open throttle stops at the exact time. You might have a throttle cable not properly seated in it's adjuster.

 

You could also have a fuel flow issue, best test for this is to do a fuel return flow test.  See how much fuel is coming out of the fuel return hose that comes from the rear.

 

You didn't plug off an intake with a rag then forget to remove it did you?

 

Does the exhaust note sound normal??? If not then you might have a loose muffler baffle  or plugged cat issue. 

 

While you have it apart measure the resistance on the front & rear wheel speed sensors (they should be close to the same resistance). 

 

  

[dirtrider]

More:

 

I forgot this one. Sometimes when working on or around the under tank area you can pull a spark plug wire partially out of the coil tower so also check for that.

[P1k1968]

I checked the hoses and found the top drain hose had come loose.  

 

After the bike sits for a day its starts and revs freely, once ridden a few miles it generally starts to have trouble revving above 5K then 4.5, 4, etc. until its starts bucking and hesitating around 3.5K.

I ordered a fuel filter, clamps and an O ring and plan to change out the fuel filter.  Been reading that its recommended to remove the carbon cannister too?

 

Andy

[dirtrider]

1 hour ago, P1k1968 said:

I checked the hoses and found the top drain hose had come loose.  

 

After the bike sits for a day its starts and revs freely, once ridden a few miles it generally starts to have trouble revving above 5K then 4.5, 4, etc. until its starts bucking and hesitating around 3.5K.

I ordered a fuel filter, clamps and an O ring and plan to change out the fuel filter.  Been reading that its recommended to remove the carbon cannister too?

 

Andy

Afternoon Andy

 

Yes, especially if you find black goo & carbon particles inside the tank & in the fuel filter. 

 

If you find a lot of carbon residue then you should also replace the fine-mesh screens in your fuel injector inlets. 

[P1k1968]

So I changed the fuel filter, no change, changed the fuel pump and its running much better.  Need to take it on a longer ride to be sure.

Still have the slow alternate flashing abs lights all the time.  But at least i can ride it again.

 

Andy

[P1k1968]

Update.  I always have slow flashing alternate ABS lights as soon as power is turned on.  On the ride home yesterday, I stalled on a hill; on startup i had two solid abs lights on for the rest of the ride home.  i.e. they were on solidly the whole time.

 

I also have a weird "stumble' hesitation going up thru 3k to 4k.  going up or coming down the rev range.  Am going to check coil, HT leads (for resistance) and the plugs to start with.  

 

I don't know if the used abs unit I bought is bad or if its something else.  I cleaned all the contacts when installing the abs.

[dirtrider]

46 minutes ago, P1k1968 said:

Update.  I always have slow flashing alternate ABS lights as soon as power is turned on.  On the ride home yesterday, I stalled on a hill; on startup i had two solid abs lights on for the rest of the ride home.  i.e. they were on solidly the whole time.

 

I also have a weird "stumble' hesitation going up thru 3k to 4k.  going up or coming down the rev range.  Am going to check coil, HT leads (for resistance) and the plugs to start with.  

 

I don't know if the used abs unit I bought is bad or if its something else.  I cleaned all the contacts when installing the abs.

Morning  P1k1968

 

Have you done an ABS reset since you installed the new (used) ABS module? If not then try that. 

 

On the 3k to 4k stumble, that is an odd place for a coil, HT leads (for resistance), and spark plugs to only happen there. That RPM is usually an o2 sensor,  fueling issue, or an exhaust reversion area.  (does your motorcycle still have the stock exhaust system)?

 

Is your motorcycle a USA motorcycle? if so then try riding with the CCP removed (if your 95RS even has one). The early 1100 RS bikes didn't have a CCP just an in-harness wire).

 

If your motorcycle has an o2 sensor then try disconnecting that & riding the motorcycle. 

[P1k1968]

It is a US model, has the charcoal canister on the right side.

Stock exhaust.

 

Never heard of a CCP, can you elaborate?

 

I've red somewhere about an O2 pigtail near the right HT lead but have not looked for that yet.

 

Tried multiple resets on the abs, middle socket jumped to ground, hold ABS button.  No change.

[dirtrider]

1 hour ago, P1k1968 said:

It is a US model, has the charcoal canister on the right side.

Stock exhaust.

 

Never heard of a CCP, can you elaborate?

 

I've red somewhere about an O2 pigtail near the right HT lead but have not looked for that yet.

 

Tried multiple resets on the abs, middle socket jumped to ground, hold ABS button.  No change.

Morning P1k1968

 

IF, big IF, you have a CCP it will be about where this pictures shows. 

 

Have you been able to get any fault codes out of the ABS system using an analog voltmeter or an LED? 

 

[P1k1968]

I do not know how to generate the pulses that the analog meter would measure, or the led's would pulse to.

 

 

I will check for the CCP when I get home.

[dirtrider]

48 minutes ago, P1k1968 said:

I do not know how to generate the pulses that the analog meter would measure, or the led's would pulse to.

 

 

I will check for the CCP when I get home.

Afternoon P1k1968

 

Check your personal messages as I sent you some info on how to test the ABS.

[P1k1968]

I have a yellow CCP.

its storming here tonight so no test ride

[P1k1968]

Pulled the yellow CCP, bike would barely idle.  Am I suppose to pull the O2 sensor wire at the same time?

[dirtrider]

13 hours ago, P1k1968 said:

Pulled the yellow CCP, bike would barely idle.  Am I suppose to pull the O2 sensor wire at the same time?

Morning P1k1968

 

No, removing the CCP also deactivates the o2 sensor input on the 1100. 

 

Usually the idle RPM increases when the CCP is removed. 

 

If it is ridable see if your 3k-4k stumble is gone. 

 

You can leave the choke on to increase the idle RPM if needed to ride it. The choke is ONLY a fast idle device as it has no actual choking ability. (it is just a fast idle lever)

[P1k1968]

CCP out.  Trying to get the idle good enough for a ride.  I noticed if I rev quickly it goes thru the 3-4K range a lot better than if I slowly twist the the throttle.  I’m going to try riding it

 

well forget a ride.  It won’t really run with the CCP out.  It’s a lot smoother with it back in.  
 

big finding is that it goes thru the trouble area a lot smoother if I am quick on the throttle and slow twists it’s hesitating and stumbling.

[dirtrider]

33 minutes ago, P1k1968 said:

CCP out.  Trying to get the idle good enough for a ride.  I noticed if I rev quickly it goes thru the 3-4K range a lot better than if I slowly twist the the throttle.  I’m going to try riding it

 

well forget a ride.  It won’t really run with the CCP out.  It’s a lot smoother with it back in.  
 

big finding is that it goes thru the trouble area a lot smoother if I am quick on the throttle and slow twists it’s hesitating and stumbling.

 

IMG_9877.mov 11.74 MB · 3 downloads

Morning  P1k1968

 

They usually run better with the CCP removed. 

 

The earlier 1100RS bikes can be a bit of an outlier so CCP thing might be normal or might be an indication of a problem to look for. 

 

Put the CCP back in then disconnect the o2 sensor then see how it runs. 

 

You will probably end up having to do a TPS (Throttle Position Sensor)  voltage sweep to verify TPS function. 

[P1k1968]

I think there are two outputs for the tps.  I measured resistence from pin 4, closest to front wheel and pin 3.

and separately pin 4 and pin 1.

 

[P1k1968]

Pins 4 and 3.

 

both ranges look like as soon as I come off idle the resistance drops then builds back up and then drops linearly.  Then it builds back up.  Bad TPS??

[P1k1968]

Back to the abs problem, I hooked up the analaog meter to the center port and ground.  Powered up gave me 4 swings indicating a rear sensor issue, correct?

 

 

[dirtrider]

On 6/8/2024 at 12:55 PM, P1k1968 said:

I think there are two outputs for the tps.  I measured resistence from pin 4, closest to front wheel and pin 3.

and separately pin 4 and pin 1.

 

IMG_9882.mov

Morning P1k1968

 

You can't tell a lot from resistance, you need to measure (and look at) the voltage output not the resistance.

 

 (with choke completely off)__  You need to find a way to connect your voltmeter between the TPS terminals 1 & terminal 4 with TPS connector plugged into the TPS. TPS wire colors are   pin 1 = white/red, pin 2 = green/yellow, pin 3 = white/gray, pin 4 = brown/gray. 

A small strand (or couple strands) of thin copper wire inserted between the TPS terminals & the connector terminals work without damaging wire insulation or terminals. Some use opened safety pins, personally I use a dedicated break-out harness between the TPS & wire harness.  

 

You need your digital voltmeter on the lowest DC scale that will read up to 5+ volts  (usually 12v dc or 20v dc). Meter connection polarity doesn’t really matter but meter red (+) lead to TPS terminal (1) will give the correct voltage polarity reading on the meter.  

 

You need a very accurate meter reading to thousandths of a volt so before connecting the meter you might put it on the Ohm setting then touch the meter leads together to verify that your meter doesn’t have any resistance in the meter leads or lead connections.

 

Once your meter is connected to the TPS terminals 1 & 4, & your meter is back on the DC voltage setting, and you are SURE that the L/H side throttle body cam is solidly contacting the base idle screw, you are now ready to check or re-set the TPS.

 

With key turned on (engine not running) & throttle cam solidly on the base idle screw (but don’t hold it their by hand), you need to see the TPS voltage under .399 volts. Anything between .365v & .385v is good. Personally I set the 1100 (Ma 2.2 Motronic) to .380v-.385v. 

 

After checking (or re-setting) the TPS per above you next need to s-l-o-w-l-y open the throttle to wide open throttle while watching your voltmeter. It needs to smoothly scroll from your base setting of .365v-.385v to 5v then smoothly scroll back to the base setting. If the TPS voltage doesn’t scroll smoothly up to 5v then back down to under .399v  find out why.   

 

Then measure between pins 3 and 4, it should go smoothly from 0 to 5 V from closed to full open throttle. 

[dirtrider]

17 hours ago, P1k1968 said:

Back to the abs problem, I hooked up the analaog meter to the center port and ground.  Powered up gave me 4 swings indicating a rear sensor issue, correct?

 

Morning P1k1968

 

That sure looks like either a bad rear wheel speed sensor or the sensor is not fully connected to the ABS controller. 

[P1k1968]

[P1k1968]

Voltage swing between 1&4 in previous video.

 

this video four and three

need to borrow a more accurate DVM to get the voltage reading at rest.  

[P1k1968]

Okay so I borrowed a Fluke meter.  

 

As found, voltage between pins 1 & 4 at rest was .265VDC.  I adjusted that to .385VDC.  When twisting the throttle voltage built to 4.7VDC and then plateaued.  The last 20% of twisting the throttle voltage did not change from 4.7.

 

Pins 4 & 3 voltage again plateaued, but this time at 4.03VDC.  from. a start of .002VDC.

 

Andy

[P1k1968]

Bike starts/idles/runs better.

still hesitates they the 3-4K range.  Once thru it, runs very well. 

[dirtrider]

3 minutes ago, P1k1968 said:

Bike starts/idles/runs better.

still hesitates they the 3-4K range.  Once thru it, runs very well. 

Afternoon  P1k1968

 

Remove fuse #5 for about 10 minutes, that will allow the Motronic to learn new adaptives based on the new TPS setting. 

[P1k1968]

I pulled the #5 fuse for ten minutes, much worse at the 3-4K range, bucking and hesitating to the point of being dangerous.  On the odd time i could thru to 5k it ran like normal.

 

Andy

[dirtrider]

21 minutes ago, P1k1968 said:

I pulled the #5 fuse for ten minutes, much worse at the 3-4K range, bucking and hesitating to the point of being dangerous.  On the odd time i could thru to 5k it ran like normal.

 

Andy

Afternoon Andy

 

That is telling us something, I'm just not sure what? 

 

It should eventually re-learn the adaptives but it shouldn't have to as it should not have that 4k-5k hesitation. 

 

My guess (from afar) is that you are either going lean in the 4k-5k range or somehow the o2 sensor is lazy or has problems & that is causing the 4k-5k hesitation. 

 

Possibly even an exhaust issue.  

 

See how it runs with the o2 sensor disconnected.

 

Ohm out the secondary (from one side spark plug wire to the other side spark plug wire, all the way through the coil). 

 

You might eventually need to rig up a fuel pressure gauge to see what kind of fuel pressure you have in the 4k-5k.

 

Possibly replace the very fine mesh screens in the top of the fuel injectors. 

 

If still nothing found then I (personally) would probably remove the o2 sensor then rig up an exhaust pressure gauge. 

 

You might even need to go as far as to remove the exhaust headers then look into the exhaust ports looking for excessive carbon/crud built up on the underside of the exhaust valve heads restricting exhaust flow. 

 

Unfortunately, on the old 1100 Ma 2.2 engines you can't get usable engine fueling-system data on a GS-911 so it is a guessing game & sometimes the process of elimination. 

[P1k1968]

You don't think the TPS sensor is to blame?  

[dirtrider]

35 minutes ago, P1k1968 said:

You don't think the TPS sensor is to blame?  

Afternoon  P1k1968

 

It isn't pointing to that with your fairly even voltage sweeps. The WOT is slightly lower than 5v but not enough to matter & some just do that.  

 

If it runs worse with the adaptives cleared then it HAD learned to slightly correct that area in the fueling. But that could be for a poor spark in the 4k-5k range, or for lean fueling in the 4k-5k range, or for some sort of exhaust pressure/reversion in the 4k-5k range. 

 

If it was a 1200 or later we could get a GS-911 on it to see what is happening but those early 1100 bikes are a hermit when it comes to usable fueling/operational data. 

 

It might come down to putting a voltmeter on a known good o2 sensor as that can at least show rich & lean & how long it stays on each side of center. 

 

I'm not suggesting that you do this: but personally I usually try to run the bike out to top speed for a mile or so to see if it will pull top speed. If it will then that mostly eliminates lack of fuel pressure or lack of fuel flow.