Lug nuts and speedbleeders

[Skywagon]

Do you ever replace non-damaged rear lug studs and if so why?  How about speedbleeders...yes or no.

 

My rear wheel has been off (currently off) maybe 5-8 times.  Nothing visually wrong with the lug studs, but wonder if after a period of time and several times of breaking loose and torquing they should be replaced.

[JCtx]

With only 44 ft/lbs of torque each, I wouldn't worry about that at all. If it was necessary, you'd for sure find that recommendation in the manual. Having said that, if you see any sort of damage on the threads, the heads getting rounded, or any other form of wear, then I'd definitely replace them, as they shouldn't be that expensive.

[dirtrider]

8 hours ago, Skywagon said:

Do you ever replace non-damaged rear lug studs and if so why?  How about speedbleeders...yes or no.

 

My rear wheel has been off (currently off) maybe 5-8 times.  Nothing visually wrong with the lug studs, but wonder if after a period of time and several times of breaking loose and torquing they should be replaced.

Morning  David

 

I only replace if damaged (usually inside the torx head worn or damaged), or if the threads are showing signs of damage or corrosion. Those darn bolts are about $10.00 apiece. 

 

If possible I usually do a torque recheck (on alloy wheels) at about  500 miles.

 

Most know my feeling on speed bleeders but some riders do use them. I haven't ever found that speed bleeders are needed on a motorcycle if a proper bleed bottle is used with the bleed hose exiting below fluid level. 

 

Over the years I have removed a number of broken speed bleeders from motorcycles (they can be a REAL PAIN to remove).  

[strataj]

David, I really like speed bleeder.  Living in the country I don't have a helper, speed bleeders make is easy and fast to change the fluid.  One important thing, keep and eye on the fluid level, too easy to pull the lever. 

[JCtx]

8 hours ago, dirtrider said:

Most know my feeling on speed bleeders but some riders do use them. I haven't ever found that speed bleeders are needed on a motorcycle

I'll NEVER use speed-bleeders either (and same thing with those 'Fumoto' oil drain valves). And they're NOT needed on a motorcycle OR car for a 1-man job at all. All you need is a vacuum fluid extractor, which is what I have used for decades. Very quick and simple. And to avoid running the reservoir dry on cars, there are large special bottles that auto-feed fluid, but I just keep an eye on fluid and top off reservoir as needed when level gets to the 'min' line. Vacuum bleeding goes slowly enough that it's easy to keep track of fluid level. On my bike, it's super easy to do. On cars, I have to get up and down behind the wheels to open/close the valves, but it's good exercise. Ha ha. Recently did the 2nd brake bleed job on my bike (first when new, since it was 2 years old from build date), when both wheels were at dealer for new tires. And cleaned calipers/pistons perfectly too.

[realshelby]

Well, I absolutely LOVE my speed bleeders! Yes, there may be compromises to using them. I just have not run into them yet. 

 

Still on my original wheel fasteners. I do clean the threads each time they are out. No lubrication, just a wire brush and clean off with a blast of air. I also blow out the hub threads. 

[MikeB60]

The kbike has 65000 miles and has been through a metric s*** ton of tires.  Then there is 160 hp and 130 lbft of torque and I'm not shy about using them. The rear wheel fasteners are original. 

[Scotto336]

I've used every imaginable method of bleeding over the last 50 years for brakes and hydraulic clutches and was always able to get the job done.  There have been some stubborn ones that needed the bleeder threads wrapped in Teflon tape or needed both pressure and vacuum treatments to get that last bit of air out (the clutch on a ZX14R).  So, I agree that speed bleeders aren't needed as stated above.  Vacuum bleeders seem the best in my opinion as stated by JCtx. Having said that, I did recently purchase some speed bleeders that I do look forward to trying out just out of curiosity.  I did go with the rather pricey ones from Stahlbus.  There are some very cheap ones out there that I avoided for obvious reasons.  I'll report back once I try them.  Bike is due for a brake fluid change.  Regarding difficulty of removal, I've run into that with stock bleeders multiple times.  I suspect it's mostly related to the last person who tightened it not understanding torque with small threads and/or buggering the flats with the wrong type/size wrench.

[Dave_in_TX]

I agree with DirtRider that "I haven't ever found that speed bleeders are needed on a motorcycle if a proper bleed bottle is used with the bleed hose exiting below fluid level." I have also used vacuum bleeding and find that the bleed bottle method is the easiest.

[alexvtr]

Never used speed bleeders on any of my previous bikes, always relied on the good old bleeding method.

I was kind of wary of putting this on such a critical system of my bikes.

Recently, I came across an online deal for a vacuum bleeder (20-odd $, very cheap).

 

I'll never bleed another brake system without this tool. Such a breeze!

1-man job, 10 minutes for 3 calipers (and that's taking my time since it was the first time using the vacuum pump).

I'll probably change my brake fluid and bleed my brakes more often just for fun!

[Etienne Lau]

Have both 2010 R1200RT and 2022 G310R, bled brakes on both and never needed speed bleeders. Granted I use a vacuum bleeder because I have 2 cars/suv, used to have 3 cars/suv....But even if I was strictly motorcycle only, I still would not use speed bleeders.

 

[Skywagon]

1 hour ago, Etienne Lau said:

still would not use speed bleeders

I’m curious… why?

 

Some people swear by them and some swear at them. 

[alexvtr]

21 minutes ago, Skywagon said:

I’m curious… why?

 

Some people swear by them and some swear at them. 

As far as I'm concerned, I don't like them too much because essentially, you're putting a faucet instead of a bolt to plug and seal off the calipers where brake pressure is applied. 

They're supposed to be very reliable, but it's something more to malfunction on a rather critical component.

All for a very limited benefit (contrary to a car where it's almost impossble to "regular" bleed a break system without a helper).

[Hosstage]

2 hours ago, alexvtr said:

As far as I'm concerned, I don't like them too much because essentially, you're putting a faucet instead of a bolt to plug and seal off the calipers where brake pressure is applied.

Isn't that what a regular bleeder is? The difference is that speed bleeders add a one way valve in the faucet. 

[Skywagon]

I think DR is one of the folks that swears at them, but not sure why.  I think I remember some of them breaking off, and creating a mess to drill out… or I could have just dreamed that. I’ve never seen DR give advice not well founded in fact so hoping he will weigh in. 
 

I have them on a boat trailer (stainless) and they work fine. I could not purge brakes without them. 
 

 

[Rougarou]

I know I'm the extreme minority.  The RTs brakes have been flushed once, just once in its nearly 160k existence.  I've squoze them pretty hard and haven't had a failure.  And, the whizzy brakes are still whizzying.  Mebbee its just grunt luck, I dunno.

 

Lug bolts are original as well, see no reason to change those guys.

 

I've never, in my existence, flushed brakes on any vehicle I've ever owned,......like I said, may be the extreme minority on these issues.

[Stiggy]

With cars (including a couple of Porsches,) I only bled the brakes when I had to work on the system.

(Nissans scheduled 2 year flush cycle is ridiculous IMO.)

With the motorcycles, I test the fluid (boil tester,) every year or so and flush if the temp range starts to fall or the fluid begins to change color.

Never an issue with any vehicle I've ever owned.

 

[Etienne Lau]

4 hours ago, Skywagon said:

I’m curious… why?

 

Some people swear by them and some swear at them. 

It ain't broke why fix it. And 2nd, is it really that hard to reach the rear brake lever and loosen the bleeder at the same time? Same Question applies to bleeding the front and reaching for the front brake lever. It's not like a car where my leg and/or arm ain't long enough :):):)

[dirtrider]

11 minutes ago, Etienne Lau said:

It ain't broke why fix it. And 2nd, is it really that hard to reach the rear brake lever and loosen the bleeder at the same time? Same Question applies to bleeding the front and reaching for the front brake lever. It's not like a car where my leg and/or arm ain't long enough :):):)

Evening  Etienne Lau

 

You don't even need to reach both the lever/or/pedal & bleed screws at the same time if you use a bleeder bottle. The fluid in the bottom of the jar with the bleed hose exiting below fluid level acts like a check valve. Just open the bleed screw & pump away.

 

That's the best way that I know to flush air out of a hard to bleed system as it moves a lot of fluid quickly. 

 

Things like vacuum bleed devices are OK for a simple fluid replacement but they move the fluid slowly so won't always get all the air out of a difficult system.  

[Hosstage]

3 hours ago, Etienne Lau said:

is it really that hard to reach the rear brake lever and loosen the bleeder at the same time? 

It can be a little more challenging with 16" Apehangers on your bike. Ask me how I know!

[Etienne Lau]

4 hours ago, dirtrider said:

Evening  Etienne Lau

 

You don't even need to reach both the lever/or/pedal & bleed screws at the same time if you use a bleeder bottle. The fluid in the bottom of the jar with the bleed hose exiting below fluid level acts like a check valve. Just open the bleed screw & pump away.

 

That's the best way that I know to flush air out of a hard to bleed system as it moves a lot of fluid quickly. 

 

Things like vacuum bleed devices are OK for a simple fluid replacement but they move the fluid slowly so won't always get all the air out of a difficult system.  

I'll have to try this technique next time. Thank you.

[Hosstage]

56 minutes ago, Hosstage said:

It can be a little more challenging with 16" Apehangers on your bike. Ask me how I know!

I meant to quote the front brake lever, rather than the rear, but you got the idea! I have to lower the bike lift to make it work for me, can't really reach the lever too well, much less see if the master is running low.

[randy]

I have had speedbleeders on every bike I have owned probably since mid 2000's.  Not sure when I first started.  Always buy from speedbleeder USA.  never a failure, easy (for me) one man bleed process.  Great lever feel, never had a failure.  I would recommend them to anyone.  Like 99% of parts on a bike, there are cheap ones and quality ones.  I get the best quality ones I can find.  Just my 0.02

[MikeB60]

17 hours ago, Rougarou said:

 Mebbee its just grunt luck, I dunno.

 

 

God loves the infantry, at least that's what my Drill Sergeant told us although it damn sure didn't seem like that at times. Might be that he loves Marines as well!

[Twisties]

Hmmmpppphhh..... hadn't realized speedbleeders were controversial.  Used to be people around here swore by them and I always felt I was lagging because I didn't have them.  Finally switched a few years ago, and oh my, so much easier.  Love them and so far no problems.  

[92Merc]

If a SpeedBleeder were to fail, it would only affect your ability to bleed the system.  Once the bleeder is closed, it operates the same as a standard bleed unit.  Closed.  Once closed, I don't believe the fluid pressure is making to the check valve.  So I don't consider the SB to be an added risk.

[Hosstage]

Correct.