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Running rough after throttle cable repair


steve68

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steve68

Successfully slid out throttle junction box, cleaned it out, reinstalled, all good.

 

Started the bike up and seems to be running rough, kinda like when the R throttle cable sheath is not seated fully in the knurled connector (checked - not the issue).

 

When I reconnected the cables (the shorter ones from the junction box to the TBs) was I supposed to perform some sort of procedure to determine how far to screw in the knurled connectors?  I just sort of screwed them in random amount.   Seems like needs an adjustment.

 

Steven

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Michaelr11

You certainly have to perform a throttle body/cable sync after working on the cables and bowden box. You should also peer into the bowden box and make sure that the cables are seated there too.

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steve68

I know how to do a TB balance,  but what is the procedure for a throttle cable sync? 

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King Herald
6 hours ago, steve68 said:

I know how to do a TB balance,  but what is the procedure for a throttle cable sync? 


That’s the TB balance with the throttle opened a bit to give a few thousand rpm. 

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steve68

New to me. Would anyone be able to give me a quick how-to?  I do have the throttle body sync tool.

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dirtrider
9 hours ago, steve68 said:

I know how to do a TB balance,  but what is the procedure for a throttle cable sync? 

Morning Steve 

 

You first need to make sure that ALL cables at the bowden box are FULLY pushed in & seated. You don't have to open it but you do need to verify that all outer cables housings are fully pushed into place.

 

Then, assuming the upper main cable adjustment near the twist grip is not too far out of adjustment  (based on a new cable so no real verification on this starting adjustment). So basically assume it is close then go from there. 

 

Next, with choke OFF, set both side cable adjusters at the throttle bodies so there is almost no inner cable slack (not guitar string tight but just starting to go somewhat snug). Then, turn each side IN EQUALLY  to slacken the cables slightly. (you need some cable slack to do a proper TB balance, not a lot but enough to not have a cable go tight at choke-off idle).

 

Now have someone s-l-o-w-l-y move the twist grip in the opening direction while you feel each side throttle cam for lifting off their idle stop screws at the exact same time.  The closer you get those now the easier it will be to do the above-idle cross side balance. Then do the same with the twist grip twisted all the way open (verify that both sides reach their wide-open stops at about the same time)

 

If the cable adjusters at the throttle bodies  look too far out or too far in after the above then adjust them both equally in or out,  then adjust the upper main cable adjuster until you have a little slack back in the lower cables.

 

This should get you back close enough to do your actual idle & above idle (3000 RPM +/-) throttle body balance. 

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King Herald

When I fitted new throttle cables a few years ago I painstakingly did all the installation, balancing, tuning etc…. then found I’d left too much slack in both cables, so the high idle lever barely added any rpm when pushed right over. 
 

I’d omitted this part of DR’s  process. :ohboy:
 

Next, with choke OFF, set both side cable adjusters at the throttle bodies so there is almost no inner cable slack (not guitar string tight but just starting to go somewhat snug).

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dirtrider
45 minutes ago, steve68 said:

Time will tell which parts of the process I missed....

Morning Steve

 

The only part that will possibly be off is the choke (fast idle speed),  if it is then there is a cable adjuster under a rubber sliding boot up by the choke lever. Usually that has enough adjustment to get it back to working properly.

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steve68

I rode to work today, all seemed in same working order except a clutch engagement issue - willl send in separate thread.

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