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Having issues with ESA rear preload settings. Am I missing something?


JCtx

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Hey gang, just checking if I'm the only one having issues changing rear ESA from 'auto' to 'MAX', and back. The last time I rode (about 6 months ago), I was having issues switching to 'MAX'. After 2 to 3 attempts, it finally switched. No issues switching back. Yesterday, it changed to 'MAX' right away, but it refused to change back to 'auto' (I had it in 'road'), with a warning that couldn't even find in the manual: 'wrong DTC...', which I've never seen before. After 3 attempts, started switching to every other mode, and same error. Finally got back to 'road' mode again, and was about to leave defeated, but tried once more, and it finally worked, cycling to 'min' first, then 'auto', as it should. Am I missing something, or what could be the issue? And I don't think I inadvertently switched ABS off, because it'd have been pretty obvious on the TFT (never done it before), so not sure why the error. I'm afraid to switch to 'max' for the twisties now. Might leave it in auto if nobody has an explanation what could be happening. Rather do that, than taking it to my dealer. Ha ha. One last comment: When setting it to 'max', I switched to 'dynamic pro' first. On the way back, I switched to 'road' first, then attempted to switch 'MAX' off, with the bike idling in N, and clutch lever out. Hopefully just something stupid like that. Thanks gang.

 

PS. Finally changed the left side tensioner for the updated one, and engine is sewing machine quiet at both sides now, so AWESOME 'mod':grin:. Well worth the expense. And bike started instantly after sitting 6 months.

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2023 RS ESA latest factory software > AUTO adjusts after riding off. I only have MIN & AUTO. BMW took away MAX. If you like MAX then don't get a software update or you will loose it.

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Thank you for that update. Yeah, it's definitely nice to have the 'max' option, since 'auto' doesn't constantly adjust, like I thought. It probably does when stopped, like if you get a passenger or something. But I definitely scrape several degrees sooner in 'auto' than 'max', meaning it's not adjusting constantly. I don't worry about dragging in 'max', but I do in 'auto'. I typically ride at 'the pace' in the twisties, meaning I hardly ever use the brakes, but based on the markings on the forks, the suspension is close to bottoming out due to hard cornering forces. And I imagine the back is probably similar under 'auto'. On 'max', it feels WAY harsher, meaning much less travel, which is great to increase cornering clearance... but it feels pretty rough on anything short of smooth. So only want it in the twisties. It's a shame you have to be stopped to change; with it was like riding modes, where closing the throttle changes them. Oh well. Next time will change it while in 'dynamic pro', and will wait to change to road until I change to 'auto' first. Hopefully it's just like the system doesn't like switching ride modes first. Was just curious if somebody else has that my experience, and if they found what is that the system doesn't like. But thanks for the heads up on the software update again; will definitely not getting that done. The good news is I never take the bike to a dealer, and warranty runs out in Oct, so would probably never do after that.

 

Finally, I also read that cruise control now changes speed 5 mph at a time, rather than 1 mph, like on my bike. Is that true? Hope not, but if yes, then I'd be yet another reason to never update the software. Even if I have to take my bike to a dealer, I'd only do it if they assure me they wouldn't update the software. Take care.

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My USA based 23 RS cruise control regulates by 1 mph increments. Possibly kph is quite different?

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On my 2023 RT, a short push on the speed up or down button adjusts the cruise control by 1 mph. A long push adjusts the speed by 5 mph.

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Thanks for the tip Bernie. Will check if my bike has that feature (never needed it before, as I hardly ever use cruise). I also want to check if it has different settings for the turn-signal canceling, like on RTs. Mine do self-cancels, but can't figure out the logic, other than at higher highway speeds, where it always just flashes a few times (maybe 3 to 5).

 

Going back to the subject, maybe the best time to change over preload settings is right after starting the bike, so will try that strategy next time. Hope it works flawlessly... AND that I remember to do it. Ha ha.

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