How to install a OEM Windshield on 2000 BMW R1100R

[TK1]

I have a BMW R100R (2000 model) with the OEM Windshield and brackets but I can't find instructions how to install / mount the windshield. Anyone out there have this knowledge? Thanks!

[King Herald]

The two heavier  struts, with the tabs welded on, go from the bottom holes on the screen down to the bottom ends of the handlebar bolts, underneath the top triple tree. 

 

The two longer struts go to a single tapped hole underneath the handlebars, near the switch gear. You need two short 6mm screws for them. 
 

Be very careful to route wires and cables so they don’t get pinched when you tighten it all down. 

I took some pics but they probably don’t really help much. 

 

 

 

 

[dirtrider]

9 hours ago, TK1 said:

I have a BMW R100R (2000 model) with the OEM Windshield and brackets but I can't find instructions how to install / mount the windshield. Anyone out there have this knowledge? Thanks!

Morning TK1

 

King Herald's info above will be a big help.

 

This drawing can hopefully add a little more about the upper tube mounting locations.

 

[TK1]

Thank you both - I will see if I can play around with the pictures and drawing and "find" the areas you're referencing. So I assume the bolt holes are already "there"?  No need for modification?  I just bolt the four areas into pre-existing bolt holes (or perhaps there is a bolt already there holding / mounting something and I just use the replacement bolts?  

[King Herald]

12 hours ago, TK1 said:

Thank you both - I will see if I can play around with the pictures and drawing and "find" the areas you're referencing. So I assume the bolt holes are already "there"?  No need for modification?  I just bolt the four areas into pre-existing bolt holes (or perhaps there is a bolt already there holding / mounting something and I just use the replacement bolts?  

Yes, the bolt holes for the top brackets are drilled and tapped into the handlebar castings.

 

The lower brackets slip over the lower ends of one of the handlebar bolts, take the nuts off first, then put it all together loosely, don’t tighten anything down until it’s all fitted together. 
 

I’ve just checked on mine,  I only have one bolt through the lower brackets, the front inner bolt each side. The screen bracket is drilled for two though. You may need to find a couple of longer 8mm bolts if yours don’t stick out through the bottom far enough. 

Once the screen is on, and the screws in, tighten it all up and it should pull into place.  

[TK1]

Thanks @King Herald - I think I was able to find the two bolts under the handlebars for the bottom of the windshield (see attached photo).  But I can't find where the bolt holes for the top brackets are drilled and tapped into the handlebar castings?   If it's not to much trouble would you be willing to take a picture from "underneath" so  I can see where they attach?  If it's too much trouble don't worry.  Thank you! 

[King Herald]

10 hours ago, TK1 said:

Thanks @King Herald - I think I was able to find the two bolts under the handlebars for the bottom of the windshield (see attached photo).  But I can't find where the bolt holes for the top brackets are drilled and tapped into the handlebar castings?   If it's not to much trouble would you be willing to take a picture from "underneath" so  I can see where they attach?  If it's too much trouble don't worry.  Thank you! 

 

 

 Here you go. My bikes a bit rustier than yours, I really ought to give it a good tidy up some day. 

 

The rusty tab is the end of the screen strut. These are both the right hand bar. 
 

From underneath. 
 

 

 

[dirtrider]

12 hours ago, TK1 said:

 I can't find where the bolt holes for the top brackets are drilled and tapped into the handlebar castings?  

Morning  TK1

 

Not all handlebar castings are tapped, if your handlebars have been replaced with the RT castings they are probably not tapped. 

 

King Herald's picture shows the location, here is a little better view of the casting with bolt location.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[TK1]

@King Herald and @dirtrider - both of you have been very helpful. Thank you!  I'll take a look and see what I find!  Side note - I'm getting ready to go on a longer trip with the bike and thought the windshield would be nice to have installed while on the interstate.  I've never ridden with it before (I just have the small, dark sport shield) - or I could take it off too and go naked.  Thoughts? 

[King Herald]

My BM is the first bike I’d ridden in 35 years with a screen on and after a year or so I decided to take it off and go naked… and lasted about a week before I put it back on. The wind buffeting and wrist strain above about 60 was a real pain when covering any distance. 

 

I have another bike, a Yamaha, that has no screen, and I rarely ride at much more than 50mph on that due to the wind, while the BM can cruise at 70-80 with no strain. All a question of taste really. 

[dirtrider]

9 hours ago, TK1 said:

@King Herald and @dirtrider - both of you have been very helpful. Thank you!  I'll take a look and see what I find!  Side note - I'm getting ready to go on a longer trip with the bike and thought the windshield would be nice to have installed while on the interstate.  I've never ridden with it before (I just have the small, dark sport shield) - or I could take it off too and go naked.  Thoughts? 

Morning TK1

 

It sort of depends on_ your upper body height, helmet choice, body/leg position while riding and your tolerance of wind buffeting. 

 

It looks like King Herald likes his windshield. 

 

For me personally, I haven't ever ridden an 1100R bike with a stock BMW windshield that didn't have bothersome helmet wind buffeting. 

 

My suggestion is to try a few local trips or rides with the windshield in place & at the speeds you intend to ride at on your dedicated trip. I do ride pretty fast so that makes wind buffeting worse. 

 

I added a Puig adjustable Windscreen Visor & that helped a little but didn't remove the helmet buffeting. I did some work with taped on lengths of yarn to see wind flow direction & flutter. Some was air flow over the windshield but a lot of the buffeting was caused by air flow coming from under the lower sides of the windshield colliding with air coming from around the sides & over the top then causing a turbulence. I was going to try a slot in the windshield that lets some frontal air in as sometimes a simple trick like that can smooth out the air in the pocket directly  behind the windshield. I have had this help other wind buffeting  problem motorcycles but I never kept my BMW (R)  bikes long enough to fully remove the buffeting problem. 

 

On my 1100R bikes I was never really happy with a stock BMW windshield so just removed them as the air the flow over my helmet was smoother without one. 

 

You are just going to have see how your 1100R windshield effects YOU at the speeds you ride at. 

[TK1]

You guys are great - thank you.  One last question - it appears the bolts did not come with the bike for the upper windshield brackets - @dirtrider or others, do you now the size of the bolt I need to purchase for those handlebar tapped bolts?  Otherwise I'm going to have to do trial and error.  Thanks!  

[King Herald]

9 hours ago, TK1 said:

You guys are great - thank you.  One last question - it appears the bolts did not come with the bike for the upper windshield brackets - @dirtrider or others, do you now the size of the bolt I need to purchase for those handlebar tapped bolts?  Otherwise I'm going to have to do trial and error.  Thanks!  

They are 6mm tapped holes, but not very deep. My bolts are 16mm long under the head. 

[dirtrider]

10 hours ago, TK1 said:

You guys are great - thank you.  One last question - it appears the bolts did not come with the bike for the upper windshield brackets - @dirtrider or others, do you now the size of the bolt I need to purchase for those handlebar tapped bolts?  Otherwise I'm going to have to do trial and error.  Thanks!  

Morning  TK1

 

As King Herald mentioned it is 16mm.

 

The BMW spec is___ ISA SCREW - M6X16-8.8-ZNNIV. 

 

The standard 6mm bolt thread pitch is 1.0,   the 8.8 is the bolt strength (not very strong)

 

It is basically 16mm long socket head bolt (bottom of socket head to tip) and is Zink/Nickel plated. 

 

Due to the very shallow tapped hole in the handlebar that 16mm long bolt needs a washer under the bolt head.

 

Finding a proper socket head 6mm 16mm long  x 1.0mm pitch with a non corroding plating (remember it is metal bolt into alloy casting)

 

Personally I would just use a  stainless steel socket head 6x1 bolt. Finding a 16mm long bolt might be difficult so probably a 20 mm then grind/file the length down or, just use a few stainless steel 6mm washers to get it to 16mm long minus the final assembly washer. 

 

Do not use a standard galvanized bolt for long term service as if is in there long enough it will probably seize then twist off at future removal. If you use a temporary galvanized bolt you will probably forget about it so my recommendation is go with the correct bolt to begin with.

 

You can also go with a much longer (fully threaded)  6x1 stainless bolt then cut the head off & install it as a stud with a stainless steel nut & washer to hold your windshield support on. 

 

Most hardware stores or auto parts stores should have a stainless steel  m-6x1 socket head, or cap head, bolt but the 16mm length will more difficult to find. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[TK1]

@King Herald and @dirtrider - Mission Accomplished!  Thank you.  I was able to find a 6mm 16mm long  x 1.0mm pitch socket head at a big box hardware store so that was perfect. I have a feeling this will be a bit nicer of a ride on the interstate.  It's not often you find people like you, who are willing to take the time to help someone.  Again, thank you VERY much.