Anyone Who Replaced Rear Shocks on a Wethead/Shifthead...

[GreyWarden]

I am curious to hear your experience on the matter. I am presently on my third Wethead/Shifthead shock replacement (both on mine and others's) bikes and I have found an installation issue with the rear shock in two cases.

 

There seems to a pressed-in spacer in the swingarm on the final drive side that slides out of its position by about 1mm and makes installing the rear shock on the bottom side extremely difficult. There isn't any trace of this spacer in any piece of BMW literature that I am aware of. Pressing that collar back in place is... something. As I was pressed for time in both cases I ended up simply pressing in the lower shock bushings as much as I safely could and then using a rubber mallet and engineer's hammer + wooden wedge to cram the shock absorber in place. It took quite some time and I realize it's far from an optimal solution but beggars can't be choosers.

 

Has anyone run into this issue? If so did you manage to press in that accursed spacer? How? Thanks.

 

[RTmutter]

I recently had the (OEM) rear shock out on my 2015 R1200RT. I needed a wooden rod and hammer to get the bottom to release from the swingarm. I cleaned up everything and put a light coating of grease on the swingarm mounting surfaces. I noticed the slight protrusion on the final drive side of the swingarm that you are describing. I was thinking that the surface should be completely flat but it definitely was not. When reinstalling, I needed a few good whacks with a rubber mallet to get the shock to slide into position on the swingarm. All in all, not a big deal. Sounds like your situation was a little more serious than mine.

[GreyWarden]

Thanks for replying, it seems like I am not the only one.

[Bernie]

I had a similar experience with my rear shock on my WetHead and on my Hexhead.

The left side of the mount has a sliding bushing, that presses against the bottom mounting lug of the shock.

The mounting bolt has a shoulder, that forces this bushing against the shock mounting lug and creates a tight fit, when the bolt is properly torqued.

I did notice that it maybe a good idea to replace the bolt, since there is a lot of stress from the up-down movement of the suspension on this bolt.

I had a friend who had his bottom shock mount break while riding in Alaska on his GSA.

 

[dirtrider]

On 3/14/2024 at 6:11 AM, GreyWarden said:

I am curious to hear your experience on the matter. I am presently on my third Wethead/Shifthead shock replacement (both on mine and others's) bikes and I have found an installation issue with the rear shock in two cases.

 

There seems to a pressed-in spacer in the swingarm on the final drive side that slides out of its position by about 1mm and makes installing the rear shock on the bottom side extremely difficult. There isn't any trace of this spacer in any piece of BMW literature that I am aware of. Pressing that collar back in place is... something. As I was pressed for time in both cases I ended up simply pressing in the lower shock bushings as much as I safely could and then using a rubber mallet and engineer's hammer + wooden wedge to cram the shock absorber in place. It took quite some time and I realize it's far from an optimal solution but beggars can't be choosers.

 

Has anyone run into this issue? If so did you manage to press in that accursed spacer? How? Thanks.

 

Afternoon GreyWarden

 

It's in the parts book for the wethead  RT        33358532150 BUSH (bushing)

 

I just wiggle the strut out. Then use a piece of wood & a small prybar to move the bushing out just a little so the new strut will easily slide back in.

 

If the bushing is really stuck I run a piece of all-thread through the bushing from the outside in then put a nut (ground to slightly smaller than the bushing OD) on the bolt then use my slide hammer to pull the bushing out. 

 

I then either clean the bushing, grease it & reinstall, or replace, (or make a new stainless steel one). The outer end of the strut bolt tightens against that floating bushing then pulls it tight to the strut as that is what clamps the lower end of the strut in place (the outer end of bolt & the bushing  floats in the swung arm outer hole.