Replace R1150R Cracked Fuel Line

[AZDoug]

I recently decided to get my 2002 R1150R going after about 2 year of just sitting.  First, I found that even on the maintainer, my battery had gone bad.  So I got a new battery and went through the arduous task of removing the tank to get to the batter, replaced it, checked if it was working, all good.  However, when I went to re--connect the fuel lines, the positive feed side started spewing gas all over the place.  I traced to leak to just behind the quick disconnect, but unfortunately, it's the follow on line that goes up under the battery box to who knows where.  I am trying to get the battery box out of the way so I can trace it and try to replace it, but the battery box has a couple of cables attached to the bottom side that keep you from removing the box, and I can't figure out how to get to that area.  Anybody have any helpful hints?  Thanks in advance.

[dirtrider]

1 hour ago, AZDoug said:

I recently decided to get my 2002 R1150R going after about 2 year of just sitting.  First, I found that even on the maintainer, my battery had gone bad.  So I got a new battery and went through the arduous task of removing the tank to get to the batter, replaced it, checked if it was working, all good.  However, when I went to re--connect the fuel lines, the positive feed side started spewing gas all over the place.  I traced to leak to just behind the quick disconnect, but unfortunately, it's the follow on line that goes up under the battery box to who knows where.  I am trying to get the battery box out of the way so I can trace it and try to replace it, but the battery box has a couple of cables attached to the bottom side that keep you from removing the box, and I can't figure out how to get to that area.  Anybody have any helpful hints?  Thanks in advance.

Afternoon  AZDoug

 

You shouldn't have to remove the battery box. 

 

Mark that leaking hose with a piece of masking tape or paint,

 

Then remove the fuel tank again, 

 

If the leaking hose has a quick disconnect then it is either the pressure or return line & both of those attach to the inside of the wing on the right hand side of the fuel tank. (remove fuel tank & you will figure it out)

 

Be sure to use a proper high pressure fuel injection rated fuel hose (it doesn't have to be submersible rated).

[AZDoug]

I wish it was that easy, but it is not the line coming from under the tank.  It is the line that goes from the disconnect to the fuel distribution gizmo that is up under the battery box.  Thanks for the info, but I’m afraid I may have to raise the rear sub frame to get at it.  I certainly hope not.

[dirtrider]

26 minutes ago, AZDoug said:

I wish it was that easy, but it is not the line coming from under the tank.  It is the line that goes from the disconnect to the fuel distribution gizmo that is up under the battery box.  Thanks for the info, but I’m afraid I may have to raise the rear sub frame to get at it.  I certainly hope not.

Evening  AZDoug

 

OK, it sounds like the line running BACK to the pressure regulator?

 

You are going to have to dig for that one.

 

It's been years since I have removed just the battery holder on the (R) bike. On the GS, the battery holder will come out without lifting the frame but I can't remember if the (R) will also do that. 

 

To access that pressure regulator area you usually need to remove the air box (RT) & the frame has to lifted to do that. I think there is a hidden attaching bolt inside the air box so look for that if you have remove the air box. 

 

 

[Jim Moore]

I've heard there's a way to do it without lifting the sub frame, but I almost don't believe it. Lifting the subframe makes it easy though, and it's not that bad. You don't need to remove the swingarm. I don't even think I took the rear wheel off.

[AZDoug]

Thanks.  Maybe I'll give it a try.  This is just so stupid.  All that happened is that the line from the disconnect to the distributor cracked.  I've been thinking that if I could cut the hose clean just beyond the break, and trim the front part behind the disconnect, and then put an insert into the line and clamp it down with a pressure resistant clamp, then put the other end on and clamp it, MAYBE it would hold. Or, If I am able to lift the sub frame to get the air box out of the way, I could probably do the swap out of the (actually just fine fuel distributor), but it would cost $150 for a new one.  Or I could just have a local shop do it.  That would only cost $450!  for a cracked fuel hose!    Arrrrrgh.......

 

[AZDoug]

Have any of you seen a write up or a video on how to raise the rear sub frame to get at this part?  I can't find a YouTube Video that relates to this.  

 

[dirtrider]

10 hours ago, AZDoug said:

Thanks.  Maybe I'll give it a try.  This is just so stupid.  All that happened is that the line from the disconnect to the distributor cracked.  I've been thinking that if I could cut the hose clean just beyond the break, and trim the front part behind the disconnect, and then put an insert into the line and clamp it down with a pressure resistant clamp, then put the other end on and clamp it, MAYBE it would hold. Or, If I am able to lift the sub frame to get the air box out of the way, I could probably do the swap out of the (actually just fine fuel distributor), but it would cost $150 for a new one.  Or I could just have a local shop do it.  That would only cost $450!  for a cracked fuel hose!    Arrrrrgh.......

 

Morning  AZDoug

 

You first need to determine if the rubber hose is leaking  or if the fuel distributor plastic line is cracked. Typically the plastic line gets bent during service then it cracks & leaks.  A cracked plastic line is not easily repaired to operate safely as the fuel system can run at over 50 psi so all hose connections should have proper fuel injection clamps & the plastic line should have proper hose retaining barbs to prevent hose blow-off.

 

If just a hose leaking then that is not that difficult to replace. 

 

If the plastic fuel distributor line is cracked then you most likely will have to lift the rear frame.

 

I don't watch those online videos so can't help you with that (just be careful in what you watch as there is a lot of incorrect info online).

 

You probably need to look for transmission or clutch replacement as the rear frame lift is needed for that. 

 

Or look for fuel distributor or fuel pressure regulator replacement as rear frame lift is part of that. 

 

You probably should get a Clymer manual as that can be big help in explaining things that need to be moved, removed, or worked around.  

[Lowndes]

11 hours ago, AZDoug said:

... I've been thinking that if I could cut the hose clean just beyond the break, and trim the front part behind the disconnect, and then put an insert into the line and clamp it down with a pressure resistant clamp, then put the other end on and clamp it, MAYBE it would hold...

 

I wouldn't trust the remaining part of that hose, or for that matter, the other original fuel hoses outside or inside the tank.  It's much easier to do it at home with tools, parts, refrigerators,  bathrooms, and beds than on the side of the road somewhere. Might as well get it all done while you're in there.  Plus, if the quick disconnect is plastic, replace it, too.  Use the chrome plated brass disconnects from EME or Beemer Boneyard, but save the plastic units for doing a fuel pump flow test or draining the tank.

 

For removal of the one piece fuel regulator and four hoses, the Clymer manual (M503-3) says (page 315) to: "4. Remove the transmission case assembly as described in Chapter Seven or Chapter Eight."  Chapter Eight is your six speed trans.  Clymer has several copyrighted pages of instructions and photos of just the Transmission Case removal. I think you can do the "quick" method if you have an overhead lift of some kind by pivoting the rear subframe group up.  I think I have a Chris Harris vid or the link to it somewhere.

 

Your "Arrrrrgh......." doesn't do it justice.

 

 

[Lowndes]

Not a Chris Harris vid but a "Quick" clutch job on a R1150 by The BMW Guy:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3C0nEu8qW3I

 

A vid by "Christian EV" that shows the removal of the trans and swing arm:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g3GQGaPg8ec

 

This may be the Chris Harris vid I was thinking about, a clutch job on a R1150RT the "EASY" way.  You will also learn some new words that will liven up the conversation and help with the disassembly and reassembly.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-PdVvxMwz_A

[AZDoug]

Hey, thanks so much everybody.  I’m going to take my time and go through the procedure to lift the rear frame.  The  crack is actually in the harder plastic line going to the fuel distributor.  So it’s got to be replaced.  You could get at it from the top if the throttle cable wasn’t firmly attached to the bottom of the battery box.  Kind of miss my old K75S and my R90/6.  Both much easier to work on.

[Lowndes]

I think it's really the fuel pressure regulator, but, hey, that line should be replaced with any others the same age, just the same.  Do you replace brake pads or spark plugs one at a time??

 

Take a good look at your clutch, clutch splines, trans input shaft splines, and lube them if everything is OK.

 

Replace your clutch slave cyl and drill a weep hole while you have the trans out.  You really don't want to do all this again anytime soon.

 

"Everything is relative" so they say.  If you think that RT is hard to work on, try a honda ST1300.  It has 22 side-panel connectors ON EACH SIDE, 8 different types, ALL hidden.  And that's the easy part (they also say!!).

[dirtrider]

16 hours ago, Lowndes said:

I think it's really the fuel pressure regulator, but, hey, that line should be replaced with any others the same age, just the same.  Do you replace brake pads or spark plugs one at a time??

 

Take a good look at your clutch, clutch splines, trans input shaft splines, and lube them if everything is OK.

 

Replace your clutch slave cyl and drill a weep hole while you have the trans out.  You really don't want to do all this again anytime soon.

 

"Everything is relative" so they say.  If you think that RT is hard to work on, try a honda ST1300.  It has 22 side-panel connectors ON EACH SIDE, 8 different types, ALL hidden.  And that's the easy part (they also say!!).

Afternoon Lowndes

 

BMW parts manual calls it a  " FUEL DISTRIBUTOR/PRESSURE REGULATOR"      It's a 2 part deal, the spider looking part with the lines is the distributor, the pressure regulator part fits into the distributor with a big horseshoe looking clip. He only needs to replace the distributor part as that has the leaking line.   New, the parts are separate, used they usually come as both parts assembled as that is the way they usually get removed.  

 

As far as transmission things go, the transmission does not get removed to replace the fuel distributor/regulator.  The air box needs to be removed to access it but unfortunately the rear frame needs to be lifted to get the darn air box out, trans isn't messed with.