Milky FD oil

[Hadabadachada]

Went to change my FD fluid as well as drop the FD and look at the splines. 
pulled the abs sensor and dropped the FD only to see straight white/tan goop more or less fall out, said uh oh.

 

im wondering if water gets into the FD when the FD boot isn’t seated properly?

I noticed a couple times that the boot came loose, so I generally push it back in place. It seems to come loose periodically, and I’m sure it’s been loose/open, through rain.

 

im gonna try and flush out as good as possible and refill.

 

thinking either that boot coming loose and water some how gets in through there, or maybe that plastic outside ring cover thing maybe?

 

any pointers?

[6speedTi]

If you are focusing on the boot, you need to inspect it thoroughly.  Check all the bellows. You need to stretch it out to get a good look at it. Do you ride in wet weather often? Check the seal on the sensor. You also need to look at the input shaft seal on the FD. 

That's all I can think of for now. 

[Hadabadachada]

I do ride in the rain and heat often here in Miami. 
The boot kept coming loose on the top swing arm side. I would think rain has gotten in there but I assumed there is a seal on the FD there. 
In addition, everything in there, u joint, drive, everything looks clean, no rust or anything. 
 

I guess I’m going to have to change the oil a few times to make sure everything is clean. 
 

last change was 6000 miles.

Since I noticed the boot would repeatedly come off, I got a replacement which is going on today. 
 

I’ll inspect the breather, maybe it’s cracked.

[dirtrider]

18 minutes ago, Hadabadachada said:

I do ride in the rain and heat often here in Miami. 
The boot kept coming loose on the top swing arm side. I would think rain has gotten in there but I assumed there is a seal on the FD there. 
In addition, everything in there, u joint, drive, everything looks clean, no rust or anything. 
 

I guess I’m going to have to change the oil a few times to make sure everything is clean. 
 

last change was 6000 miles.

Since I noticed the boot would repeatedly come off, I got a replacement which is going on today. 
 

I’ll inspect the breather, maybe it’s cracked.

Afternoon Hadabadachada

 

That white slime usually indicates water contamination. 

 

The water didn't get in at boot area as there is a pinion seal between the boot area & the interior of the final drive. If the pinion seal is compromised then you would also have a boot full of gear oil.  

 

Do you power wash that motorcycle, if yes then stop doing that.

 

If you use a wand type spray car wash then do not direct the spry at the final drive vent or transmission vent area. 

 

If you do neither of the above then riding in the rain could be the issue, it shouldn't if the vent is working properly but riding with hot final drive then riding into cold road water can allow the drive to cool off & the interior to go to negative pressure. Still shouldn't suck water in through the vent.

 

Is the vent cap still in place?

 

You might replace the vent just as a precaution.  

 

 

 

[Hadabadachada]

Maybe I’ll have to start changing the FD oil with the engine oil at 3000, at least for now.

probably check it every few hundred miles for the next couple months. 

[Skywagon]

Just now, Hadabadachada said:

changing the FD oil with the engine oil

I always do. Cheap and easy. Brake fluid once a year. 

[dirtrider]

25 minutes ago, Hadabadachada said:

Maybe I’ll have to start changing the FD oil with the engine oil at 3000, at least for now.

probably check it every few hundred miles for the next couple months. 

Afternoon Hadabadachada

 

What you need to do is get that motorcycle out on the freeway & give it an hour or two run at 80 mph every so often.  That usually heats the gear oil enough to cook the moisture out of it. 

 

You sure don't want to park that motorcycle for a while with moisture in the gear oil that can pit the bearings & if bad enough pit the gear teeth.  

[Hadabadachada]

Well maybe it really did turn into egg nog like blood into wine.

Since I ride everyday and at least 3 times a week on the highway at high speeds, but I guess only for about 30-60 minutes at a time. 
 

as far as rain, it sits outside at work in the rain we will say maybe 10 times a month depending. Don’t ride much in the rain, few times a month. 
 

as far as washing, I just use a hose, and I guess I have sprayed the FD directly. Not like a mad man, I always think about NOT spraying certain areas too hard or long. I’ll have to not do that anymore.
 

breather doesn’t look cracked or anything.
I’ll just have to have a look in 500 miles or a few rain storms, whichever is first. 

[TSConver]

That is a lot of moisture

 

I would fill it ride it and change it again after getting it good and warm.

[dirtrider]

Afternoon Hadabadachada

 

Was that motorcycle in a flood before you bought it? 

 

Any other signs of water in anything like the engine oil or transmission gear oil? 

 

I haven't seen that much moisture in a BMW final drive since I got my old 1150GS stuck knee deep in a flowing river & it had to sit there for a while until other riders showed up to help me get it unstuck & out of the river. 

 

Was that motorcycle regularly ridden before you bought it? Or was it sitting on a dealers lot taking a while to sell it?  

 

 

[Skywagon]

 If just water, that’s the worse I’ve ever seen even with a cracked head/block. 

[Hadabadachada]

I bought it with 3400 miles, in April, changed all fluids when I got it. It was in their showroom. FD oil was changed at 5,000. I found out that the dealer had changed all the fluids, as everything I changed was brand new. I’ve been changing the motor oil every 3000 miles and the FD and gear box every 6000.

 

I am at 17,000 so I’ve changed the FD 3 times now. Once at 5,000 when “new” to me, once at 11,000 after my road trip, which came out fine no issues, and now at 17,000 and it came out like this. 

 

bike doesn’t go in water other than rain. And FD had no leaks that I’ve ever seen.

oh and I’ve always used the little 207ml bottle of the bmw 75-90 stuff.

[Dave_in_TX]

38 minutes ago, Hadabadachada said:

 

oh and I’ve always used the little 207ml bottle of the bmw 75-90 stuff.

The bottle may contain 207ml but you should only be using 180ml at each fluid change.

[Skywagon]

22 minutes ago, Dave_in_TX said:

only be using 180ml

^^^^this^^^^

[Twisties]

4 hours ago, Hadabadachada said:

Well maybe it really did turn into egg nog like blood into wine.

Since I ride everyday and at least 3 times a week on the highway at high speeds, but I guess only for about 30-60 minutes at a time. 
 

as far as rain, it sits outside at work in the rain we will say maybe 10 times a month depending. Don’t ride much in the rain, few times a month. 
 

as far as washing, I just use a hose, and I guess I have sprayed the FD directly. Not like a mad man, I always think about NOT spraying certain areas too hard or long. I’ll have to not do that anymore.
 

breather doesn’t look cracked or anything.
I’ll just have to have a look in 500 miles or a few rain storms, whichever is first. 

 

Ohhh!  Now that is spectacular!  

[Hadabadachada]

2 hours ago, Dave_in_TX said:

The bottle may contain 207ml but you should only be using 180ml at each fluid change.

Affirmative.

I do measure 180, more or less since it’s kind of a pain, I usually lose a few, add a few drops when filling.
 

 

[6speedTi]

I would perform a good flush of the Final drive. I would drain the FD then fill it up to almost full. With the bike on the center stand rotate the wheel by hand to get a good mixing of the gear oil. Then drain it all out and see how it looks. Then properly service it. As previously suggested, take a good look at the vent and it's not a bad idea to replace it for precautionary reasons. 

[Hadabadachada]

Got it. 
I did fill it up and just spin it back and forth for awhile with my leftover transmission oil. Then filled it with the BMW stuff to 180 +\- .

 

Any off the shelf auto store gear oil that people use for the FD? I’d like to just get something down the street that I can use to change it often. Like after rains for a look.

i mean, if it was running like that and i couldn’t notice any difference, I’m not too worried about what it is as long as it’s GL-5 right?

 

I’ll have to order some gaskets with the vent. 

[dirtrider]

Morning Hadabadachada

 

Other camhead riders have noticed white milky final drive gear oil. 

 

You should probably check with your dealer as possibly BMW has service bulletin or service advisory on what is going on. 

 

Very possible that you have a venting issue as that is about the only way the water can get in. If your motorcycle has that problem then some other camhead riders must have the same issue.  

 

Pop your vent cap out & see if is damaged or looks like it could allow water in.  If not sure then replace it.

 

If it was my motorcycle, & I had water getting into my final drive, (I have had that problem before on my 1100 & 1150 bikes ridden off road through water & mud).

 

I removed the factory final drive vent cap then added a hose coming out of the final drive vent hole to vent up under the seat, with the factory vent cap on the top of that hose (Proper side up on the vent cap).

 

On my old 1150 GS I actually vented the final drive into the intake air box (that solved my water in the drive issue).

 

You can use any GL-5 of the proper weight, use a NON LS  (non Limited Slip) gear oil if possible. Problem is, a lot of the better modern gear oils of the proper viscosity for your motorcycle  are only sold locally as LS gear oils as most automobiles can use an LS gear oil even if they don't have a Limited Slip differentials. You c-o-u-l-d use an LS related gear oil if that is all you can find but it isn't the best choice for a BMW final drive. 

 

Check you PM's on this site I sent you some info__

 

 

[jdub53]

9 hours ago, Hadabadachada said:

Any off the shelf auto store gear oil that people use for the FD? I’d like to just get something down the street that I can use to change it often. Like after rains for a look.

i mean, if it was running like that and i couldn’t notice any difference, I’m not too worried about what it is as long as it’s GL-5 right?

 

 

I was pleased to find my local NAPA carried Liqui Moly 75w90 gear oil for non-limited slip applications, and that's what I'm using now in my RT's final drive. GL5 SAE 75W-90 AIC LM22090 | Buy Online - NAPA Auto Parts (napaonline.com)

 

As dirtrider mentioned earlier, I too believe a missing or defective FD vent cap would be the most likely reason for water entry into the FD. A couple of times when I'd lowered the FD on my old GS-LC and on the RT to lube the driveshaft splines, that vent cap was accidentally knocked out of place but fortunately I found it and reinstalled. Especially because this water contamination is a new development on your FD with nothing else changing in your riding or maintenance, might be worth installing a new vent cap.  Good luck.

[6speedTi]

https://www.liqui-moly.com/en/fully-synthetic-hypoid-gear-oil-gl4-5-sae-75w-90-p004272.html#tab-label-description-title

 

OR...

Mobil One Delvac 75w90 gear oil.

Both do not have limited slip additives. 

 

I use the Delvac on my Colorado truck with a G80 locker. Very sensative and damaging if a limited slip gear oil is used. 

I've been using the liquimoly 75w90 on my RT since new. Both good choices. No issues to date. 

 

[Hadabadachada]

I’ll have a look for the oil today and give it another flush tomorrow to see what it’s looking like, since we are set to get some rain tomorrow afternoon. 
 

ordered a new vent and seals so they should get here next week since the dealer is useless. 
 

I always try to call my local dealer and they never pick up. Leave a message like they ask, and they never call back. I doubt they’d be any help anyway. Miami is weird. So many people but doesn’t seem like many of them know what they are doing in life.

 

maybe I’ll run a test and hose everything down back there like it was raining or I was washing it, then drain it and have a look. 
wouldn’t be surprising if the vent has maybe shrunk or something over the last 10 years with little use, allowing water in. 

[6speedTi]

1 hour ago, Hadabadachada said:

I’ll have a look for the oil today and give it another flush tomorrow to see what it’s looking like, since we are set to get some rain tomorrow afternoon. 
 

ordered a new vent and seals so they should get here next week since the dealer is useless. 
 

I always try to call my local dealer and they never pick up. Leave a message like they ask, and they never call back. I doubt they’d be any help anyway. Miami is weird. So many people but doesn’t seem like many of them know what they are doing in life.

 

maybe I’ll run a test and hose everything down back there like it was raining or I was washing it, then drain it and have a look. 
wouldn’t be surprising if the vent has maybe shrunk or something over the last 10 years with little use, allowing water in. 

Miami BMW off the Palmetto has questionable business ethics. It's all about money. They have a high turn over rate in the shop.

I don't use them anymore.  

[Hadabadachada]

40 minutes ago, 6speedTi said:

Miami BMW off the Palmetto has questionable business ethics. It's all about money. They have a high turn over rate in the shop.

I don't use them anymore.  

I stopped using them way back in 2008 when I had my F800. Started to use the lauderdale shop on peters, or Longs for small things. Back then there were two great mechanics who no longer work there. But I’d still trust lauderdale over Miami. Even though their policy is, they don’t work on anything more than 10 years old. I don’t know if this is standard BMW practice across the board or what. Used to be able to take airheads in for work, no more, not at lauderdale at least.
 

Miami it’s still the closest to get parts. 
mucho South American business. Back in 2006-2010 maybe, there were a few really cool guys in the parts department who I’m still friends with today, they were great. 
 

Miami has really upped their inventory at this point, super nice, loaded shop, if you’re looking for gear. Or a used RnineT, lol, they must have 20 of those.
Just trash customer service and that’s a killer. 

[Hadabadachada]

So this kinda makes me wonder….

Got a reply for my order today, I wonder if this has anything to do with it….

id assume a lot of people have the old part on their bikes though…who knows, I look forward to seeing the difference.

[dirtrider]

50 minutes ago, Hadabadachada said:

So this kinda makes me wonder….

Got a reply for my order today, I wonder if this has anything to do with it….

id assume a lot of people have the old part on their bikes though…who knows, I look forward to seeing the difference.

Evening  Hadabadachada

 

Well, BMW changed it for a reason, either an improved version, or they are commonizing (sp) the vent cap with other usages.

 

In any case, it might very well eliminate your problem.

 

Some of the  camhead/wethead GS/GS-A riders in my offroad riding group are either using this  ____  https://touratech-usa.com/Store/Final-Drive-Breather-Relocation-Kit-BMW-R1200GS-ADV-2010-on-Oil-Water-Cooled  __ Or have made their own due to getting water in the final drive when  crossing rivers, streams, or long deep water/mud holes.  

[Camhead64]

I've had milky oil in the final drive on my '11 R1200r on several occasions, usually after running long trips with multiple days in the rain. I suspected water vapor intrusion through the vent, I like the idea of the breather relocation kit, wonder if it would fit my bike. I decided early on to drain and change it when ever I did oil changes, 5k intervals, I now change final drive twice each year just because regardless of oil change time or not.  It takes 15 minutes and costs only couple of bucks as I was using Mobil 1 gear lube and only paying about 12 bucks per quart. 

[dirtrider]

10 hours ago, NewportCycle said:

I've had milky oil in the final drive on my '11 R1200r on several occasions, usually after running long trips with multiple days in the rain. I suspected water vapor intrusion through the vent, I like the idea of the breather relocation kit, wonder if it would fit my bike. I decided early on to drain and change it when ever I did oil changes, 5k intervals, I now change final drive twice each year just because regardless of oil change time or not.  It takes 15 minutes and costs only couple of bucks as I was using Mobil 1 gear lube and only paying about 12 bucks per quart. 

 

 

Quote

"I like the idea of the breather relocation kit, wonder if it would fit my bike"

 

Morning NewportCycle

 

The 2011 1200R takes the same breather cap as 2011 1200GS so the lower fitting should fit your final drive. The breather cap between your 1200R & the 1200GS is the same so that should fit on the upper fitting in the kit.

 

The only thing that you might need to be modify is the hose length if you aren't happy with the upper vent mounting location. (you probably need to find a mounting location that keeps it out of the road water spray)

 

You can always call or E-Mail "Touratech USA" to get their input. 

 

 

[Camhead64]

Thanks, there should be a good spot up behind the adjuster somewhere.

[Redfoxx]

On 1/17/2024 at 1:28 PM, Hadabadachada said:

Well maybe it really did turn into egg nog like blood into wine.

Since I ride everyday and at least 3 times a week on the highway at high speeds, but I guess only for about 30-60 minutes at a time. 
 

as far as rain, it sits outside at work in the rain we will say maybe 10 times a month depending. Don’t ride much in the rain, few times a month. 
 

as far as washing, I just use a hose, and I guess I have sprayed the FD directly. Not like a mad man, I always think about NOT spraying certain areas too hard or long. I’ll have to not do that anymore.
 

breather doesn’t look cracked or anything.
I’ll just have to have a look in 500 miles or a few rain storms, whichever is first. 

My outboard motor does not even get that much water in gears and it sits underwater and is 60 years old. 

[Hadabadachada]

Just got my replacement vent.

 Compared them both for 5 minutes and can’t say it looks any different than the one on my bike at all. Maybe my bike already has that style, just old? 
does seem to fit a tad snugger in there. 
maybe that’s where it was getting in from. Maybe the rubber shrunk a bit and let water in?

now I just wait for a rain storm.

next time it goes through rain, I’ll probably hose the area as if I was washing the bike as well. 

after that; drain the oil and have a look, and proceed from there.

I ended up getting a gallon of that delvac stuff mentioned above, and some fresh drain plug seals. so I have a few oil change’s available 

 

[dirtrider]

20 minutes ago, Hadabadachada said:

Just got my replacement vent.

 Compared them both for 5 minutes and can’t say it looks any different than the one on my bike at all. Maybe my bike already has that style, just old? 
does seem to fit a tad snugger in there. 
maybe that’s where it was getting in from. Maybe the rubber shrunk a bit and let water in?

now I just wait for a rain storm.

next time it goes through rain, I’ll probably hose the area as if I was washing the bike as well. 

after that; drain the oil and have a look, and proceed from there.

I ended up getting a gallon of that delvac stuff mentioned above, and some fresh drain plug seals. so I have a few oil change’s available 

 

Afternoon Hadabadachada

 

You will probably have to cut them open to see the difference. Could be different internal baffling or the internal membrane could be different.   

[Hadabadachada]

I guess the only thing I’m curious of now is, does this thing have to be on there a certain way?
The way there is a dot in a spot on the top and the way the tube on the bottom is angled. I see no indicators to line up the dot with anything or any easy clues, so I just put it on.

[Old School]

Changed the oil in my final drive today.. The only gear oil I could find without friction modifiers and anti-slip additives was STP 80W 90, rated GL5. The old oil that I drained appeared to be fairly low viscosity and red in color, but no contamination. I'm guessing it must be a RedLine product. Refilling was a real PITA without the proper tool. I'm definately going to order the BMW tool.

[jdub53]

7 hours ago, Old School said:

Refilling was a real PITA without the proper tool. I'm definately going to order the BMW tool.

 

Two alternatives, at what I'll guess are substantially lower prices, to whatever FD oil fill tool BMW offers:

 

8 oz. LDPE Applicator Bottle with 38/400 Black Slant Tip Applicator | U.S. Plastic Corp. (usplastic.com)

 

Final Drive Gear Oil Dispenser Bottle (beemerboneyard.com)

 

Mine is like the first example, graduated in both fluid ounces and milliliters for easy measurement, and I've been using it for 20 years or so.

[dirtrider]

7 hours ago, Old School said:

Changed the oil in my final drive today.. The only gear oil I could find without friction modifiers and anti-slip additives was STP 80W 90, rated GL5. The old oil that I drained appeared to be fairly low viscosity and red in color, but no contamination. I'm guessing it must be a RedLine product. Refilling was a real PITA without the proper tool. I'm definately going to order the BMW tool.

Morning Old School

 

That low viscosity red gear oil sounds like the old BMW super synthetic 75w90 GL-5 as that was red & was actually pretty decent gear oil for the final drive.

 

That STP 80W 90, rated GL5 would be way down on my personal list of BMW final drive gear oil choices.

[Old School]

11 hours ago, dirtrider said:

Morning Old School

 

That low viscosity red gear oil sounds like the old BMW super synthetic 75w90 GL-5 as that was red & was actually pretty decent gear oil for the final drive.

 

That STP 80W 90, rated GL5 would be way down on my personal list of BMW final drive gear oil choices.

Yeah, I live in a small town where there aren't a lot of choices. I'll probably order a good synthetic and change it again at the next oil change. I already ordered the BMW calibrated syringe, so it should be easier next time. I've been trying to think of any logical reason for putting a 1/4 inch filler hole behind the brake rotor.

[Camhead64]

" I've been trying to think of any logical reason for putting a 1/4 inch filler hole behind the brake rotor."

Finite element analysis of the final drive casting most likely picked the spot.

[dirtrider]

On 1/31/2024 at 5:19 PM, Old School said:

 I've been trying to think of any logical reason for putting a 1/4 inch filler hole behind the brake rotor.

Morning  Old School

 

That is actually a well thought out location for the filler plug. 

 

The newer BMW final drives are a very thin-wall casting with the ring gear running extremely close to the inside surface (real close). This means that adding a fill plug (above gear oil level)  in the alloy casting would need to have a thicker area in the casting with the plug boss protruding this also leaves a big wart on the smooth looking housing. Plus it would take a separate operation to machine & thread that wart.

 

So it was just a simple change to add a small boss on the "side cover"  for the filler plug. 

 

The cover is already in the machine in the proper attitude to machine the bolt holes, the ABS speed sensor hole, etc so it is just a simple auto tool change to machine & thread that filler hole in the already fixtured up side cover. 

 

You have to remember, that in todays world, design for service is way/way/way down the list when it comes to priorities. 

 

Eliminating manufacturing steps, reducing material, assembly line handling tooling, quicker machining, & the big one, ease of assembly line assembly & fluid filling. The assembly process most likely fills the drive from the same side other operations are done and before the rear wheel is bolted on.   

 

 

 

 

[Hadabadachada]

Well hadabadachada

[Hadabadachada]

Update

finally went through two days of rain after changing the breather, so the bike got wet.

 

drained the FD to have a look, seems nice and clean. 
guess it was probably the breather letting water passed. 
 

so I know I said I didn’t notice any difference in the riding, but after riding a bit with the milk oil and now with the clean oil, I can say there was one thing that has gone away.

i would notice making some turns, usually lower speed, 15-30ish maybe, when I’d lean I’d feel some vibration in my right foot.

thought it was kinda weird, so I figured, when I go in to replace the rubber boot, I’ll grab the final drive and move it around, check to see if the U joints maybe loose, causing a vibration when I’m turning.

 

now that I have new oil in it, I don’t feel that vibration in my right foot/footpeg.

 

im assuming it had to do with the consistency of the watered up oil causing a vibration sometimes. Maybe it was a certain speed or cadence that brought it out.

 

that seems to be gone now

Just wanted to add that to the forum.

[dirtrider]

20 hours ago, Hadabadachada said:

Update

finally went through two days of rain after changing the breather, so the bike got wet.

 

drained the FD to have a look, seems nice and clean. 
guess it was probably the breather letting water passed. 
 

so I know I said I didn’t notice any difference in the riding, but after riding a bit with the milk oil and now with the clean oil, I can say there was one thing that has gone away.

i would notice making some turns, usually lower speed, 15-30ish maybe, when I’d lean I’d feel some vibration in my right foot.

thought it was kinda weird, so I figured, when I go in to replace the rubber boot, I’ll grab the final drive and move it around, check to see if the U joints maybe loose, causing a vibration when I’m turning.

 

now that I have new oil in it, I don’t feel that vibration in my right foot/footpeg.

 

im assuming it had to do with the consistency of the watered up oil causing a vibration sometimes. Maybe it was a certain speed or cadence that brought it out.

 

that seems to be gone now

Just wanted to add that to the forum.

Afternoon Hadabadachada

 

I can't figure how a little water in the final drive could give you a vibration in your right foot only in a turn. There is no differential or posi-traction in a single track motorcycle.

 

Most likely it was the exhaust system slightly grounding out to a hanger or being bound up that got repositioned during the work. Or  something slightly loose that got tightened properly during final drive work. 

[Hadabadachada]

Fair enough.

I was thinking maybe the rotation/vibration or frequency or something was resonating differently through the changed viscosity of the oil. 
 

guess I’m just thinking way too much into it.

 

what about the increased vibration at about 3200 RPM? I always just assumed that was caused by something like that. 
 

Or maybe my bike is a lime

[dirtrider]

8 minutes ago, Hadabadachada said:

Fair enough.

I was thinking maybe the rotation/vibration or frequency or something was resonating differently through the changes viscosity of the oil. 
 

guess I’m just thinking way too much into it.

 

what about the increased vibration at about 3200 RPM? I always just assumed that was caused by something like that. 
 

Or maybe my bike is a lime

Afternoon Hadabadachada

 

Put it through a common sense filter. Does the  3200 RPM vibration only happen in a right hand turn?  Or would it still happen going straight & while turning left? 

[Hadabadachada]

I’m sorry, the 3200 vibration is just any gear, and it’s more of an engine vibration rather than a footpeg vibration. 
 

I figured that was an engine harmonic, the 3200 RPM vibration. 
 

the footpeg one was at certain speeds only in turns, but not all turns,  it seemed like it depended on the speed
 

I’ve just been trying to pay less attention to stuff like this, picking every little thing apart wondering.

few more beers before each ride aught to solve that.

[dirtrider]

36 minutes ago, Hadabadachada said:

I’m sorry, the 3200 vibration is just any gear, and it’s more of an engine vibration rather than a footpeg vibration. 
 

I figured that was an engine harmonic, the 3200 RPM vibration. 
 

the footpeg one was at certain speeds only in turns, but not all turns,  it seemed like it depended on the speed
 

I’ve just been trying to pay less attention to stuff like this, picking every little thing apart wondering.

few more beers before each ride aught to solve that.

Evening Hadabadachada

 

The engine vibration is more of a BMW boxer thing as the pistons are not directly across from each other. This is not effected by turning or leaning.

 

On your R/H foot peg thing, that does seem to be turn or lean induced so it isn't a constant (not there going straight). There is nothing in the final drive that really changes when turning (no differential) so if you have an issue with the final drive due to gear oil contamination or whatever ??? then it should be there going straight as well as turning.  

 

If your final drive crown bearing is starting to go then you should feel that in both foot pegs costing, engine off, in neutral & in a straight line, &  showing up as you coast  slower & slower. (kind of subtle, almost muffled feeling) 

 

What you are feeling when tuning right might even be a slight off-center cupping type tire wear. 

[Hati]

1 hour ago, Hadabadachada said:

the footpeg one was at certain speeds only in turns, but not all turns,  it seemed like it depended on the speed

 

Maybe you just load the peg in a turn helping your body position, without realising. Load peg - squash rubber - feel more vibrations.

[Hadabadachada]

1 hour ago, dirtrider said:

 

What you are feeling when tuning right might even be a slight off-center cupping type tire wear. 

This. Didn’t think about that as I still had a lot of tread depth, but I do drive on mostly straight roads. 
There was probably a deviation.

since I had changed the tires recently.

And it went away. I guess I was in shock from the gear oil and automatically stuck the vibes to that harsh discovery. 

 

I remember on my r1100s my second trip to the dragon, on pilot road 4 I think they were. 
they were worn in such a way that along with the tread pattern, it gave me a wobble at 43ish mph. Come on and stop, only 43mph. 
did the ride up and camped at the dragon, did a few roads and continued onto PA, where I got a new set installed and the wobble went away.

 

thanks for getting my brain in gear on that one. 
always the best source.