'11 R12RT, after revving the idle takes a long time to stabilize

January 10

Vehicle: '11 R12RT, K26 0440

Problem: after revving, the idle on my RT drops to a low, rough idle of approximately 1K RPM and then takes about ten seconds to stabilize to the proper 1.2K RPM. Any conjecture as to the issue? I made a video to show the symptom as it occurs.

January 11

1 hour ago, pwillikers said:

Vehicle: '11 R12RT, K26 0440

Problem: after revving, the idle on my RT drops to a low, rough idle of approximately 1K RPM and then takes about ten seconds to stabilize to the proper 1.2K RPM. Any conjecture as to the issue? I made a video to show the symptom as it occurs.

Evening pwillikers

Some possibilities but before we start just guessing at things a little background info might allow us to get closer.

Any work done to that motorcycle just before the problem showed up. (anything)

Have the coils been removed from the spark plugs recently?

Has the battery been disconnected or replaced recently? If so then try a battery disconnect then a throttle TPS re-learn.

The easy would be something like a spark plug or coil acting up, or an idle stepper responding slowly or getting lost.

Do have access to a GS-911 to put on the bike to see what the data shows?

January 11

Thanks DR.

Yes, I have MotoScan. Lots of work has been done immediately prior to malfunction, many unrelated for sure, but unfortunately, many variables to consider. Here's the list...

haven't touched the battery
installed new tires
greased rear drive splines
inspected drive shaft yokes
changed rear drive oil
changed trans oil
inspected valve clearances (all in spec: LIT/B:.18/.17; LET/B:.36/.38; RIT/B:.16/.19; RET/B:.38/.38)
replaced spark plugs: NGK 8765 MAR8B-JDS
balanced throttle bodies
TPS re-learn

I balanced the throttle bodies using the MotoScan app. MotoScan has a full procedure for balancing the throttle bodies that is very similar if not identical to that of the GS911. It calibrates the actuators (audible confirmation) and declares success, start your engine, monitors the engine temp until 80° C, parks the actuators and increases the RPM to around 3K. I used a home made manometer to do the actual balancing. MotoScan has very limited capability for realtime engine operation monitoring.

Per your suggestion I

pulled all the new spark plugs and reinstalled the old but known good plugs - no change
re-calibrated the idle actuators using the MotoScan function - no change
re-balanced the throttle bodies using the MotoScan procedure - no change

With the engine fully warm, the idle doesn't drop as low, when the throttle is abruptly closed, as it does when cold. When warm, the idle now stabilizes to 1K RPM. When cold, it barely idles at maybe 600 RPM.

Any testing I could perform that would assist with diagnosis?

Thank you.

January 11

1 hour ago, pwillikers said:

Thanks DR.

Yes, I have MotoScan. Lots of work has been done immediately prior to malfunction, many unrelated for sure, but unfortunately, many variables to consider. Here's the list...

haven't touched the battery

installed new tires

greased rear drive splines

inspected drive shaft yokes

changed rear drive oil

changed trans oil

inspected valve clearances (all in spec: LIT/B:.18/.17; LET/B:.36/.38; RIT/B:.16/.19; RET/B:.38/.38)

replaced spark plugs: NGK 8765 MAR8B-JDS

balanced throttle bodies

TPS re-learn

I balanced the throttle bodies using the MotoScan app. MotoScan has a full procedure for balancing the throttle bodies that is very similar if not identical to that of the GS911. It calibrates the actuators (audible confirmation) and declares success, start your engine, monitors the engine temp until 80° C, parks the actuators and increases the RPM to around 3K. I used a home made manometer to do the actual balancing. MotoScan has very limited capability for realtime engine operation monitoring.

Per your suggestion I

pulled all the new spark plugs and reinstalled the old but known good plugs - no change

re-calibrated the idle actuators using the MotoScan function - no change

re-balanced the throttle bodies using the MotoScan procedure - no change

With the engine fully warm, the idle doesn't drop as low, when the throttle is abruptly closed, as it does when cold. When warm, the idle now stabilizes to 1K RPM. When cold, it barely idles at maybe 600 RPM.

Any testing I could perform that would assist with diagnosis?

Thank you.

Afternoon pwillikers

On the Throttle Body balance, what did you actually change & how much did you change it/them????

With all that work is there any chance that you partially pulled the right hand throttle cable out of the splitter box (that can sometimes happen unknown to the person doing the work).

Are BOTH SIDE throttle levers lifting off of the idle stop screws at the exact time (this might point a finger).

Are both side throttle levers solidly contacting the idle screws when you drop the throttle to idle???

There really is no gain in doing a stepper calibration as the fueling computer does that at every new key-on. It's the only way the fueling computer knows where the stepper pintles are at re-start.

You might also see if it will run on JUST the upper spark plugs then see if it will run/idle on just the lower spark plugs. (you might need to hold the throttle slightly open to stay running)

Verify the exhaust pipes are getting to about the same temperature when running on just the uppers or lowers.

Can you see the o2 sensor real time data on the MotoScan? If so then see if they are ACTIVE and about the same before dropping the throttle to idle, then see if they are staying close during the idle issue.

I don't have a lot of time now so look back later as I might add to the above list.

January 11

3 hours ago, dirtrider said:

Afternoon pwillikers

On the Throttle Body balance, what did you actually change & how much did you change it/them????

I didn't touch the factory set throttle stop screw. I only adjusted the 10 mm cable slack nuts and lock nuts. I initially did the "von baden" method of removing slack until the manometer responds and tighten one full turn. This left too much play at the throttle so I redid it with half a turn which was much better.

With all that work is there any chance that you partially pulled the right hand throttle cable out of the splitter box (that can sometimes happen unknown to the person doing the work).

I checked all cables are seated properly.

Are BOTH SIDE throttle levers lifting off of the idle stop screws at the exact time (this might point a finger).

Yes, both nearly identical as far as I can tell.

Are both side throttle levers solidly contacting the idle screws when you drop the throttle to idle???

Yes, both throttle body butterfly valves return to the stop with a good clack.

There really is no gain in doing a stepper calibration as the fueling computer does that at every new key-on. It's the only way the fueling computer knows where the stepper pintles are at re-start.

You might also see if it will run on JUST the upper spark plugs then see if it will run/idle on just the lower spark plugs. (you might need to hold the throttle slightly open to stay running)

With both upper spark plug coils removed, it runs smoothly at 2K RPM but won't idle.

With both lower spark plug coils removed, it ran smoothly at 2K RPM and barely idles.

Verify the exhaust pipes are getting to about the same temperature when running on just the uppers or lowers.

Virtually the same temperature rise L/R header pipes with either uppers and lowers disconnected as measured with an infrared laser thermometer.

Can you see the o2 sensor real time data on the MotoScan? If so then see if they are ACTIVE and about the same before dropping the throttle to idle, then see if they are staying close during the idle issue.

Yes, I have to retract my prior statement. MotoScan can in fact monitor lots of real time parameters (see 16 attached MotoScan screenshots for posterity's sake).

"Lambda controller output, Bank 1" and "...Bank 2" hover around a value of "1".

I don't have a lot of time now so look back later as I might add to the above list.

January 11

46 minutes ago, pwillikers said:

On the Throttle Body balance, what did you actually change & how much did you change it/them????

I didn't touch the factory set throttle stop screw. I only adjusted the 10 mm cable slack nuts and lock nuts. I initially did the "von baden" method of removing slack until the manometer responds and tighten one full turn. This left too much play at the throttle so I redid it with half a turn which was much better.

With all that work is there any chance that you partially pulled the right hand throttle cable out of the splitter box (that can sometimes happen unknown to the person doing the work).

I checked all cables are seated properly.

Are BOTH SIDE throttle levers lifting off of the idle stop screws at the exact time (this might point a finger).

Yes, both nearly identical as far as I can tell.

Are both side throttle levers solidly contacting the idle screws when you drop the throttle to idle???

Yes, both throttle body butterfly valves return to the stop with a good clack.

There really is no gain in doing a stepper calibration as the fueling computer does that at every new key-on. It's the only way the fueling computer knows where the stepper pintles are at re-start.

You might also see if it will run on JUST the upper spark plugs then see if it will run/idle on just the lower spark plugs. (you might need to hold the throttle slightly open to stay running)

With both upper spark plug coils removed, it runs smoothly at 2K RPM but won't idle.

With both lower spark plug coils removed, it ran smoothly at 2K RPM and barely idles.

Verify the exhaust pipes are getting to about the same temperature when running on just the uppers or lowers.

Virtually the same temperature rise L/R header pipes with either uppers and lowers disconnected as measured with an infrared laser thermometer.

Can you see the o2 sensor real time data on the MotoScan? If so then see if they are ACTIVE and about the same before dropping the throttle to idle, then see if they are staying close during the idle issue.

Yes, I have to retract my prior statement. MotoScan can in fact monitor lots of realtime parameters (see 16 attached MotoScan screenshots for posterity's sake).

"Lambda controller output, Bank 1" and "...Bank 2" hover around a value of "1".

Afternoon pwillikers

Don't use white text as it is difficult to read on a white background screen.

See if you can look at the Lambda Control factors on 1 & 2 with a hot engine. Should probably be in the .75 to .9 range (probably won't match side to side on the same time line (ms) line.

Also, (If possible) look at the Lambda Sensor voltage (mv) on a hot engine, they probably won't match side to side on the same line but both 1 & 2 should be varying above & below .450mv & in constant change (you don't want one side stuck with all below .450mv or all above .450mv.

If something doesn't look right send me a screen shot or send me the .xml data.

There should be a cable adjuster up by the twist grip, as a test try putting a little more slack in the throttle cable (pull side) then see if your dropped-throttle idle dip goes away.

Also look at the idle actuator counts, you want them fairly even side to side & probably in the 150 count range +/- 20 counts or so (the closer to each other the better) but keep in mind they will be identical until they go independent (that can take a while).

January 11

Thanks DR. (I changed my text responses to red. I use a "dark" theme so my background is black. Sorry for the difficulty.)

Increasing throttle cable slack at the twist grip produced no change.

The Lambda values seem to be in range.

The Stepper motor positions for both 1&2 never got off 0% regardless of throttle position or RPMs.

January 12

12 hours ago, pwillikers said:

Thanks DR. (I changed my text responses to red. I use a "dark" theme so my background is black. Sorry for the difficulty.)

Increasing throttle cable slack at the twist grip produced no change.

The Lambda values seem to be in range.

The Stepper motor positions for both 1&2 never got off 0% regardless of throttle position or RPMs.

Morning pwillikers

I don't use a MotoScan but have worked with a few riders that have sent me MotoScan data (mostly fault codes). Some of the fault codes don't seem to match what I think they should be & don't match my fault code info. It seems (from what little I have dealt with MotoScan data) that it is basically an automotive tool that has been not quite fully vetted for motorcycle usage.

So, it shows your IDLE SPEED active, but with stepper position at 0% that doesn't look right. I'm not used to seeing stepper position as precent so that is different. BUT, even with showing precent, or counts, it should be moving around.

Any chance that you locked the steppers for idle balance & they stay locked (or you didn't unlock them if that is an option or even needed).

If the MotoScan isn't reading the stepper position then 0 % means nothing. If it is reading them at 0% or they aren't working then that could be your dropped idle problem as the BMW system uses the steppers as throttle followers (basically an electronic dash pot).

In any case, see if you have other options in your menu for stepper control or unlocking. If you can't find anything then try a 1/2 hour battery disconnect with turning the key-ON with the battery disconnected to deplete fueling computer capacitors. Then do a new TPS relearn after battery re-connect.

Possibly someone with a camhead (or even a hexhead) that is fluent with the MotorScan can chime in tell us what (working) stepper control options are available & how to access/use them.

You might also check for a MotoScan update.

January 12

I have the latest version, 1.92, of MotoScan. It has no unlock feature for the idle actuators.

The symptoms would certainly point to the idle actuators being at fault. The engine runs just fine off idle, cold or hot.

I disconnected the battery, turned the key to the on position and walked away for an hour.
I reconnected the battery, performed a TPS reset and started the engine - basically no change.
When I started the cold engine and it ran fine at 2K RPM but died immediately when the throttle was closed.
I disconnected the idle actuator connectors and started the still cold engine. It ran fine and settled into an unsteady 1.2K RPM idle, much better than with the idle actuators connected.

I agree with you that it seems the idle actuators are permanently parked. What is the "adaptation" process for this bike? Is it possible it'll relearn optimum operating parameters and fix itself? This seems unlikely. I'd think there'd be default function that would provide acceptable operation in the absence of learned parameters.

Is there a way to bench test the idle actuators? Should I look at replacing them?

Again, thanks so much D.R. for working through this with me.

January 12

14 minutes ago, pwillikers said:

I have the latest version, 1.92, of MotoScan. It has no unlock feature for the idle actuators.

The symptoms would certainly point to the idle actuators being at fault. The engine runs just fine off idle, cold or hot.

I disconnected the battery, turned the key to the on position and walked away for an hour.

I reconnected the battery, performed a TPS reset and started the engine - basically no change.

When I started the cold engine and it ran fine at 2K RPM but died immediately when the throttle was closed.

I disconnected the idle actuator connectors and started the still cold engine. It ran fine and settled into an unsteady 1.2K RPM idle, much better than with the idle actuators connected.

I agree with you that it seems the idle actuators are permanently parked. What is the "adaptation" process for this bike? Is it possible it'll relearn optimum operating parameters and fix itself? This seems unlikely. I'd think there'd be default function that would provide acceptable operation in the absence of learned parameters.

Is there a way to bench test the idle actuators? Should I look at replacing them?

Again, thanks so much D.R. for working through this with me.

Morning pwillikers

Probably not BOTH steppers going bad at once. Especially if it ran OK before the work (& MotoScan stepper parking).

It sounds like it is homing them but THEN not retracting to proper starting counts. And then they are not active once engine is started.

I would sure like to see what a GS-911 has to say on the stepper (commanded) counts, if it shows them active, & what the hot curb idle counts are.

I don't know what capability the MotoScan has as far as resetting adaptives.

You might try warming the engine, then riding it a little ways to see if that allows the steppers to follow the throttle & re-learn positions.

January 12

I have a buddy who, as it turns out, owns a GS911 he says it's very old and requires Windows XP! That is old. I'll see if I can borrow it. In the meantime I'll replace the Tupperware and buzz around the neighborhood. When I get the GS911 set up, I'll report back.

I'm getting quite adept at this. I timed myself... not rushing it took nine minutes and twenty-three seconds to remove the necessary four body panels. I'm not so sure I should be proud of this newly acquired skill. :-)

January 13

I've gotten the GS-911 set up (I'm a neophyte). Immediately after cold start, the "Idle Position Sensors" were both zero and subsequently woke up to the following values.

Live data: (relevant parameters, please let me know if these are necessary and sufficient for diagnosis). Snapshot take about a minute after cold start. I need to figure out how to capture values over time.

Lambda control factor 1 : 1.0
Lambda control factor 2 : 1.0
Engine temperature : 83.3 °F
Temperature (cylinder head 1) : 102.2 °F
Temperature (cylinder head 2) : 102.2 °F
Throttle valve position : 0.00 %
Knock sensor 1 : 20.47 V
Knock sensor 2 : 16.15 V
Idle actuator position 1 : 27.0
Idle actuator position 2 : 27.0
Lambda sensor voltage 1 : 507.8 mV
Lambda sensor voltage 2 : 488.3 mV
Tank venting valve : OFF
Lambda sensor heating 1 : ON
Lambda sensor heating 2 : ON
Additive Trim bank 1 : -0.19 %
Additive Trim bank 2 : 0.61 %
Multiplicative Trim bank 1 : 1.1
Multiplicative Trim bank 2 : 1.0

Full complement of available engine controller live data (a minute after cold start):

Injection time : 2.0 ms
Lambda control factor 1 : 0.9
Lambda control factor 2 : 0.9
Speed : 0.0 mph
Engine RPM : 1122 rpm
Air temperature : 61.7 °F
Engine temperature : 81.9 °F
Temperature (cylinder head 1) : 123.8 °F
Temperature (cylinder head 2) : 123.8 °F
Ignition angle : 41.2 °KW
Throttle valve position : 0.00 %
Engine load : 11.85 %
Battery voltage : 14.11 V
Knock sensor 1 : 25.49 V
Knock sensor 2 : 16.76 V
Ignition dwell time : 2.6 ms
Odometer : 53852.4 mi
Front wheel speed : 0.0 mph
Rear wheel speed : 0.0 mph
Gear position : N
Idle actuator position 1 : 13.0
Idle actuator position 2 : 11.0
Ambient air pressure : 14.5 PSI
Lambda sensor voltage 1 : 97.7 mV
Lambda sensor voltage 2 : 605.5 mV
Side-stand switch 1 : Extended
Side-stand switch 2 : Extended
Side-stand switch calculated : Extended
Clutch switch : Not Actuated
Kill switch : RUN
Oil switch : NOT OK
Start switch : Not Actuated
Tank venting valve : ON
Engine over-temperature light : OFF
Actuation of starter relay : OFF
Lambda sensor heating 1 : OFF
Lambda sensor heating 2 : OFF
Fuel pump : ON
Engine safety cut-out (of BMSK) : OFF
Starter safety cut-out (of BMSK) : OFF
Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) : OFF
Additive Trim bank 1 : -0.19 %
Additive Trim bank 2 : 0.61 %
Multiplicative Trim bank 1 : 1.1
Multiplicative Trim bank 2 : 1.0

January 13

I just ran the GS-911 | Detected Vehicle (R1200RT) | Engine Controller | Service Functions

Engine Controller, BMKS Output Tests on: Idle Actuators 1&2, Oxygen Sensor Heating 1&2, and Tank Venting Valve. All completed successfully.

Still barely idles, particularly after abrupt throttle closure.

January 13

Morning pwillikers

I only have a minute or so as I am out plowing snow & needed to make a phone call.

Anyhow, your Lambda sensors are not active yet in either of the above events.

The idle actuator position 1 : 13.0 & idle actuator position 2 : 11.0 is mighty low for only one minute of running. Are you 100% sure that you don't have tight throttle cables?

Post another one after the Lambda sensors start doing something.

January 13

PLOWING SNOW! Long time since I've had to do that. Where are you located? I see the NE is getting hit.

I don't think it's possible to make GS-911 capture engine controller output over time. So, the following are snapshots taken when the engine was cold and hot.

Following is the output at idle just after a cold start:

Lambda control factor 1 : 1.0
Lambda control factor 2 : 0.9
Engine RPM : 1260 rpm
Engine temperature : 103.6 °F
Temperature (cylinder head 1) : 138.6 °F
Temperature (cylinder head 2) : 138.6 °F
Throttle valve position : 0.00 %
Battery voltage : 14.11 V
Knock sensor 1 : 25.43 V
Knock sensor 2 : 19.73 V
Idle actuator position 1 : 70.0
Idle actuator position 2 : 65.0
Lambda sensor voltage 1 : 136.7 mV
Lambda sensor voltage 2 : 117.2 mV
Tank venting valve : ON
Lambda sensor heating 1 : ON
Lambda sensor heating 2 : ON
Additive Trim bank 1 : -0.05 %
Additive Trim bank 2 : 0.66 %
Multiplicative Trim bank 1 : 1.1
Multiplicative Trim bank 2 : 1.0

Following is output at idle after fully warmed up:

Lambda control factor 1 : 1.0
Lambda control factor 2 : 1.0
Engine RPM : 1098 rpm
Engine temperature : 202.1 °F
Temperature (cylinder head 1) : 239.9 °F
Temperature (cylinder head 2) : 239.9 °F
Throttle valve position : 0.00 %
Battery voltage : 14.11 V
Knock sensor 1 : 17.62 V
Knock sensor 2 : 19.57 V
Idle actuator position 1 : 15.0
Idle actuator position 2 : 15.0
Lambda sensor voltage 1 : 742.2 mV
Lambda sensor voltage 2 : 820.3 mV
Tank venting valve : OFF
Lambda sensor heating 1 : OFF
Lambda sensor heating 2 : OFF
Additive Trim bank 1 : 0.00 %
Additive Trim bank 2 : 0.80 %
Multiplicative Trim bank 1 : 1.1
Multiplicative Trim bank 2 : 1.0

With each subsequent startup, warm up cycle, the engine seems to be performing better. The idle is still low and very lumpy but at least it isn't dying outright when the throttle is closed. Is it possible it's fixing itself? I won't know for sure until tomorrow morning when it'll be stone cold.

GS-911 has a "reset adaptation" function. What parameters are "adapted"? How long does adaptation take? Is there some documentation on the adaptation function I could peruse?

Again, D.R., thank you for your impressive diligence in the midst of a snow storm.

January 14

14 hours ago, pwillikers said:

PLOWING SNOW! Long time since I've had to do that. Where are you located? I see the NE is getting hit.

I don't think it's possible to make GS-911 capture engine controller output over time. So, the following are snapshots taken when the engine was cold and hot.

Following is the output at idle just after a cold start:

Lambda control factor 1 : 1.0

Lambda control factor 2 : 0.9

Engine RPM : 1260 rpm

Engine temperature : 103.6 °F

Temperature (cylinder head 1) : 138.6 °F

Temperature (cylinder head 2) : 138.6 °F

Throttle valve position : 0.00 %

Battery voltage : 14.11 V

Knock sensor 1 : 25.43 V

Knock sensor 2 : 19.73 V

Idle actuator position 1 : 70.0

Idle actuator position 2 : 65.0

Lambda sensor voltage 1 : 136.7 mV

Lambda sensor voltage 2 : 117.2 mV

Tank venting valve : ON

Lambda sensor heating 1 : ON

Lambda sensor heating 2 : ON

Additive Trim bank 1 : -0.05 %

Additive Trim bank 2 : 0.66 %

Multiplicative Trim bank 1 : 1.1

Multiplicative Trim bank 2 : 1.0

Following is output at idle after fully warmed up:

Lambda control factor 1 : 1.0

Lambda control factor 2 : 1.0

Engine RPM : 1098 rpm

Engine temperature : 202.1 °F

Temperature (cylinder head 1) : 239.9 °F

Temperature (cylinder head 2) : 239.9 °F

Throttle valve position : 0.00 %

Battery voltage : 14.11 V

Knock sensor 1 : 17.62 V

Knock sensor 2 : 19.57 V

Idle actuator position 1 : 15.0

Idle actuator position 2 : 15.0

Lambda sensor voltage 1 : 742.2 mV

Lambda sensor voltage 2 : 820.3 mV

Tank venting valve : OFF

Lambda sensor heating 1 : OFF

Lambda sensor heating 2 : OFF

Additive Trim bank 1 : 0.00 %

Additive Trim bank 2 : 0.80 %

Multiplicative Trim bank 1 : 1.1

Multiplicative Trim bank 2 : 1.0

With each subsequent startup, warm up cycle, the engine seems to be performing better. The idle is still low and very lumpy but at least it isn't dying outright when the throttle is closed. Is it possible it's fixing itself? I won't know for sure until tomorrow morning when it'll be stone cold.

GS-911 has a "reset adaptation" function. What parameters are "adapted"? How long does adaptation take? Is there some documentation on the adaptation function I could peruse?

Again, D.R., thank you for your impressive diligence in the midst of a snow storm.

Morning pwillikers

The cold start cyl head temperatures (actually only one side cyl head temp sensor that is shared by both sides) look fairly warm for a cold start engine (138.6 °F) how long was it allowed to cool off?

Your cold-start Idle actuator position's are looking better.

GS-911 has a "reset adaptation" function. What parameters are "adapted"?---- Mainly the fueling Additive Trim & Multiplicative Trim. It won't hurt to reset but it might take a little riding for the adaptions to return to nominal.

You can ride it with the plastics removed, I usually use small zip ties through the U nuts that the panel screws thread into so one doesn't slide off & get lost on the road. I also zip tie any hanging wires & controls that would otherwise hang free to flop around.

January 14

Since I've recently become a proud borrower of a GS-911, I've simultaneously become aware of the HEX CODE technical forums in which I've discovered a relevant thread that describes the exact same problem I've encountered. In this thread, it is offered: "After the (throttle body) sync, it is essential to reset the adaptations" - thank you Jughead.

Consequently, I've gone on a half hour ride to allow the adaptations to re-adapt, which they have. Although it may be premature to declare success, initial observations would indicate ALL IS NOW WELL.

January 14

16 minutes ago, pwillikers said:

Since I've recently become a proud borrower of a GS-911, I've simultaneously become aware of the HEX CODE technical forums in which I've discovered a relevant thread that describes the exact same problem I've encountered. In this thread, it is offered: "After the (throttle body) sync, it is essential to reset the adaptations" - thank you Jughead.

Consequently, I've gone on a half hour ride to allow the adaptations to re-adapt, which they have. Although it may be premature to declare success, initial observations would indicate ALL IS NOW WELL.

Morning pwillikers

That is good news, it was probably the riding that allowed the idle actuators to re-adapt as those should have been cleared when you did the battery disconnect.

January 14

Thanks D.R. for your ardent support of myself ant the members of this forum. Stay warm amidst your snowy winter.

A bit more detail from the HEX CODE forum:

"On R1200 Twincam models, after doing a Idle Actuator Calibration, once the engine is started, the idle is very rough. The solution is to do a "Reset All Adaptations Values" (and remember to follow the re-learn procedure afterwards). "

January 21

A postmortem in the hope of saving others from the same ordeal ...

The issue really started when I (un)synchronized the throttle bodies (TBs) with a failing TwinMax...

The idle was a little lumpy
So I balanced TBs using MotoScan and a 25yr old TwinMax
The balancing act required very large throttle cable adjustments. In hindsight, way too large.
Then, the engine would not idle at all but ran fine at higher revs (see attached YouTube)
I repeatedly attempted re-balancing the TBs with the TwinMax, each adjustment required large adjustments one way or the other and lots of head scratching.
I ultimately discovered that the TwinMax was giving grossly inconsistent readings. I replaced the 9V battery but the readings remained inconsistent. The TwinMax was dying a slow and very painful (to me) death.
I re-balanced TBs with MotoScan and a home made manometer. Initially the TBs were way, way out of balance, given the prior TwinMax shenanigans. But after this re-balance, the TBs were now in sync.
The engine still would not idle.
I re-balanced TBs again but now with a GS911 and the home made manometer. This confirmed that the TB's were in perfect balance and required no adjustment.
The engine still would not idle.
Buried in the HEX CODE fora, I discovered the requirement for "re-adaptation" of engine operating parameters following a TB sync on Camheads. Nowhere in either MotoScan's or HEX CODE's throttle body synchronization instructions, is it suggested to do this.
Hoping for "adaptation" to occur, I rode around for a half hour in all gears at all throttle openings. The idle got better and better.
"Adaptation" of the engine operating parameters by the ECU was ultimately achieved. The idle, as well as all other engine operation, are now perfect.

I believe my initial attempts at balancing the TBs with the failing TwinMax put the TBs so out of wack that the ECU couldn't adapt. When I ultimately corrected the TB balance, it took the ECU a long time to recover from the way out of wack settings to something that would permit the engine to idle. All is now well. :-)

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'11 R12RT, after revving the idle takes a long time to stabilize

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