Is this where you wire accessories?

[Joe Frickin' Friday]

'23 1250RT, getting ready to install Hex ezCAN.  I finally got the panels off yesterday.  Great googly moogly, it's a lot of separate pieces:

 

 

 

Battery is visible on the right side of the bike, below the fuel tank.  I can see/access the battery's negative terminal, but not its positive terminal.  There is, however,  a connection just forward of the battery that has 12 volts present on it.  Shown here with a red plastic cap on it:

 

Is that thing intended for connecting accessories?

[MikeB60]

3 minutes ago, Joe Frickin' Friday said:

Is that thing intended for connecting accessories?

That's where mine are connected on the GS and RT.

[TSConver]

5 minutes ago, MikeB60 said:

That's where mine are connected on the GS and RT.

 

Same here

[dirtrider]

24 minutes ago, Joe Frickin' Friday said:

'23 1250RT, getting ready to install Hex ezCAN.  I finally got the panels off yesterday.  Great googly moogly, it's a lot of separate pieces:

 

Battery is visible on the right side of the bike, below the fuel tank.  I can see/access the battery's negative terminal, but not its positive terminal.  There is, however,  a connection just forward of the battery that has 12 volts present on it.  Shown here with a red plastic cap on it:

Is that thing intended for connecting acces

sories?

Morning Mitch

 

That is most likely a remote jump starting (B+) post as you can't access the actual battery (+)  post.

 

No reason that you couldn't connect accessories there, just make sure that anything connected there is fused for wire size & load.   

[Joe Frickin' Friday]

1 hour ago, MikeB60 said:

That's where mine are connected on the GS and RT.

 

1 hour ago, TSConver said:

Same here

 

53 minutes ago, dirtrider said:

That is most likely a remote jump starting (B+) post as you can't access the actual battery (+)  post.

 

No reason that you couldn't connect accessories there, just make sure that anything connected there is fused for wire size & load.   

 

Funny, you still can't access it without removing screws to take a body panel off.  

 

In any event, the ez-CAN includes a in-line fuse, so I should be all set.  

 

Thanks to all of you guys for the quick responses.   

 

[Skywagon]

With all those panels off, its a great time to change the air filter....even if not quite time yet.

[duckbubbles]

That terminal is wired direct from the battery positive and is hot all the time.  You may need to find a switched wire to operate a relay to control the on/off of your accessories unless you can remember to turn them off with a switch each bike shut down.

 

Frank

[MikeB60]

1 hour ago, duckbubbles said:

That terminal is wired direct from the battery positive and is hot all the time.  You may need to find a switched wire to operate a relay to control the on/off of your accessories unless you can remember to turn them off with a switch each bike shut down.

 

Frank

Not an issue with the ez-CAN

[Joe Frickin' Friday]

1 hour ago, Skywagon said:

With all those panels off, its a great time to change the air filter....even if not quite time yet.

 

A bit premature; I don't even have 1000 miles on it yet.  

 

1 hour ago, duckbubbles said:

That terminal is wired direct from the battery positive and is hot all the time.  You may need to find a switched wire to operate a relay to control the on/off of your accessories unless you can remember to turn them off with a switch each bike shut down.

 

 

I finally watched the ezCAN installation video through to the end.  Two things of note:

1. They specifically refer to wiring the power leads as has been discussed in this thread (see video below at 8:03).
2. The ezCAN includes a pass-through pair of connectors for tapping in the TPMS, presumably for access to the CAN bus messages that wake up the ezCAN and whatever accessories you are trying to operate with it (see video below at 4:20).  

So...when in doubt, RTFM...or in the modern era, WTFV, I guess.  

 

 

 

[Cap]

When I installed the EZCAN on my 2017 R1200RT, it plugged into the wiring harness under the pillion seat.  I didn't need to remove all the bodywork as you have done. 

 

But now that you know how to remove all the bodywork, it is a good time to perform some other tasks... like change the air filter (probably not on your new bike), or route some auxiliary wiring for stuff like heated clothing.  Maybe install some crash bars.  And it's a great time to make a mod to your gas tank filler neck - AKA "Brad gas."

 

Cap

[JCtx]

The battery cover should only require removal of ONE Torx screw, and a screw driver for that should be under the seat (for what I remember, so same as my R). So not that difficult to achieve if needed.

[Bernie]

It’s 3 screws on the 23 RT.

[Hati]

3 hours ago, JCtx said:

The battery cover should only require removal of ONE Torx screw

 

Maybe on your R bike. Like Bernie said, 3  on an RT.

[Joe Frickin' Friday]

On 1/4/2024 at 2:19 PM, Joe Frickin' Friday said:

1. The ezCAN includes a pass-through pair of connectors for tapping in the TPMS, presumably for access to the CAN bus messages that wake up the ezCAN and whatever accessories you are trying to operate with it (see video below at 4:20).  

 

Since my bike does have the TPMS, I fully expected to see the "RDC" module they described at 4:40 in the video.  Instead, I've got a harness plug with a blanking plug installed in it, like they describe at 5:00 for bikes that don't have the TPMS.  What's going on here?  

[MikeB60]

@Joe Frickin' FridayLet me pull the seat and I'll take a photo. 

[MikeB60]

16 minutes ago, Joe Frickin' Friday said:

 

Since my bike does have the TPMS, I fully expected to see the "RDC" module they described at 4:40 in the video.  Instead, I've got a harness plug with a blanking plug installed in it, like they describe at 5:00 for bikes that don't have the TPMS.  What's going on here?  

 

[MikeB60]

The tip of the chisel is the module it plugs into

[Joe Frickin' Friday]

1 minute ago, MikeB60 said:

The tip of the chisel is the module it plugs into

 

Is that your TPMS I'm seeing? 

 

Here's my harness and blanking plug:

 

 

There's even an "RDC" label on the harness.  

[MikeB60]

It is mine is a 22 wonder if they moved the module 

[MikeB60]

The cable on mine is marked the same

[Bernie]

I pulled mine into the wire with the label “ RDC”. It had a cap on  the connector.

I think on the TFT bikes or on the 23 version they use another device to get the Tire pressure readings.

[dirtrider]

13 hours ago, Bernie said:

I pulled mine into the wire with the label “ RDC”. It had a cap on  the connector.

I think on the TFT bikes or on the 23 version they use another device to get the Tire pressure readings.

Morning Bernie

 

On CanBus connectors those are usually not just a connector cap, those CanBus connector caps usually contain a 120 ohm terminating resistor. 

 

I haven't done much work with the newer 1250 bikes in the CanBus or LinBus areas (as that usually is still under warranty) but I have no reason to believe that the, non-used-connector caps, are not resisted to prevent RFI issues. 

 

If you removed a terminating cap to install your add-on then if that add-on has a CanBus out connector be sure to reinstall that resistor cap on the open connector. (you most likely have done that),  this is just a reminder  for other readers that find this thread in the future.

 

If you (or Mitch) find the cap doesn't contain a 120 ohm resistor then let me know & I will delete this post.

[Bernie]

Yes I reinstalled the cap, but I didn’t actually inspect it. I just remember ClearWater LED instructions saying to reinstall the cap on the unused outlet cable. I think it is most likely the same with the Hexcode controller. 

[TSConver]

On the 2023 bikes the rdc is integrated into another module.

[Joe Frickin' Friday]

4 hours ago, dirtrider said:

If you (or Mitch) find the cap doesn't contain a 120 ohm resistor then let me know & I will delete this post.

 

My cap is an empty piece of plastic:

 

[RadioFlyer]

BMW switched RDC manufacturers from Schrader to LDL Technology. The two systems are not compatible and different tire pressure sensors are used. The LDL Technology RDC is integrated into the keyless ride module (also manufactured by LDL). If there is no termination resistor in the plug cap it is highly probable that the CAN-bus no longer apears at that connector as the CAN-bus must be properly terminated for reliable operation.

[Joe Frickin' Friday]

1 hour ago, RadioFlyer said:

BMW switched RDC manufacturers from Schrader to LDL Technology. The two systems are not compatible and different tire pressure sensors are used. The LDL Technology RDC is integrated into the keyless ride module (also manufactured by LDL). If there is no termination resistor in the plug cap it is highly probable that the CAN-bus no longer apears at that connector as the CAN-bus must be properly terminated for reliable operation.

@Bernie, you said your Clearwater controller is plugged into this connector.  I assume your lights are working properly, i.e. your controller is seeing CANbus messages at that connector?

[Bernie]

39 minutes ago, Joe Frickin' Friday said:

@Bernie, you said your Clearwater controller is plugged into this connector.  I assume your lights are working properly, i.e. your controller is seeing CANbus messages at that connector?

Yes they are working fine. I am only using the Billie Brake Light and I am using the can opener to activate a standard relay to power my Valentine 1 and a USB charger, located under the seat. The turn on when start the bike and turn off with the bike. 

[Joe Frickin' Friday]

33 minutes ago, Bernie said:

Yes they are working fine. I am only using the Billie Brake Light and I am using the can opener to activate a standard relay to power my Valentine 1 and a USB charger, located under the seat. The turn on when start the bike and turn off with the bike. 

 

Cool, thanks. It's weird that there's no terminating resistor in the blanking cap, but if your setup is working without it, then I guess that's good news for me.

[Bernie]

I am not using the aux lights, since the bike came with driving lights. I am reusing the same Can OPener that I used on my 2018 RT.  Clearwater said it would work the same way.

The only difference I noticed is that when I turn on the bike, the radar detector doesn’t receive power till I start the motor and it turns of when I turn off the ignition, no delay or time out aas with the 2018 RT. 

[dirtrider]

1 hour ago, Joe Frickin' Friday said:

 

Cool, thanks. It's weird that there's no terminating resistor in the blanking cap, but if your setup is working without it, then I guess that's good news for me.

Evening Mitch

 

Yes, something is going on with this & I'm not sure what. I only see one 120 ohm termination resistor listed for the 1250RT's. It isn't stated as location or CAN branch specific. 

 

I don't even see a specific 120 ohm termination resistor for the RDC area (the parts book used to show the 120 ohm termination resistor in the same picture as the RDC box for the hexhead & camhead. 

 

It might just be that BMW has some new internal programing that deactivates a Can branch until it identifies something plugged into it (this is a stretch though). 

 

I do see a termination cap (various sizes) listed for the 1250 but the price is way too low for those caps to include terminals & a resistor.

 

Or possibly they now have a way to filter the CAN signals to eliminate RFI interference built into the latest electronics. 

 

I will try to dig into this as time goes by & we gain more information on the how the latest system works. 

 

Or it's even possible that the latest RDC is now on the LIN system as it is pretty well a one way input system. (but this wouldn't explain the ezCAN accessing the CAN system, as far as I know). Things like the horn button are on the LIN I believe. 

 

The new CAN/ LIN systems are going to take some serious investigation & research to fully understand their hidden operations. 

[Bernie]

I know that there is an extra shield installed in the rear section of the bike. I don’t know if it shielding a device from interference or electrical noise . It is a little bit too big for just mounting a cable plug with a cap.

The Can Opener is laying on the shield in the picture. I think the alarm module is located under the shield or shelf?

[RadioFlyer]

The purpose of the termination is to eliminate reflections along the CAN-bus. The CAN H and L wires are a twisted pair forming what electrical enginerrs refer to as a transmission line which has a characteristic impedance. The terminations must have a matching impedance if reflections along the transmission line are to be minimized. The reflections form standing waves along the length of the transmission line. The standing waves are what can cause issues with the reliability of correctly receiving the CAN messages. The terminations are found at either end of the CAN-bus. 

 

 

[profbodryak]

I have two wiring sets for heated gear connected to that + with a red cap on it and a - to the battery lead. I also have a Noco wire connected directly to + and - battery leads in case of a dead battery. Nav is connected to an available switched power on the left side of the gas tank. And my wireless phone charger is connected to switched power going to the right auxiliary socket through a motorrad splitter. 

[profbodryak]

On 1/5/2024 at 5:28 PM, Joe Frickin' Friday said:

 

Is that your TPMS I'm seeing? 

 

Here's my harness and blanking plug:

 

 

There's even an "RDC" label on the harness.  

Where exactly is this? Under the passenger seat? Is it unused? 

[Joe Frickin' Friday]

8 minutes ago, profbodryak said:

Where exactly is this? Under the passenger seat? Is it unused? 

Unused, located in tail compartment (just behind passenger seat).

[Joe Frickin' Friday]

22 hours ago, Joe Frickin' Friday said:

22 hours ago, Bernie said:

23 hours ago, Joe Frickin' Friday said:

@Bernie, you said your Clearwater controller is plugged into this connector.  I assume your lights are working properly, i.e. your controller is seeing CANbus messages at that connector?

 

Yes they are working fine. I am only using the Billie Brake Light and I am using the can opener to activate a standard relay to power my Valentine 1 and a USB charger, located under the seat. The turn on when start the bike and turn off with the bike. 

 

Cool, thanks. It's weird that there's no terminating resistor in the blanking cap, but if your setup is working without it, then I guess that's good news for me.

 

Turns out it's not good news for me.  My ezCAN is not working when it's installed on the bike.  "Installed" here means:

 

* ezCAN's power leads are connected to the battery and accessory terminal as described way up at the beginning of this thread

* ezCAN's CAN plug is connected to the bike's harness plug labeled "RDC"

* the empty plastic blanking plug that was on the bike's "RDC" plug is now on the only ezCAN plug it can fit on

 

Using my PC, I had previously configured the ezCAN so that the red-wire circuit and white-wire circuit would turn on/off with ignition:

 

 

However, when I turn on the bike's ignition, I don't get any voltage across the pins on the white or red plug.  Am I correct in thinking that I don't actually have to start the engine, i.e. key-on (instrument cluster awake) delivers the CAN signal that will wake up the red/white circuits?

 

I grabbed a laptop PC and tried connecting to the ezCAN while it was still installed on the bike, but the ezCAN wouldn't wake up (no green/other LED light near USB port, and laptop couldn't see it).  Tried pulling the RDC plug, but the ezCAN still wouldn't wake up.  Had to actually remove the power leads from the battery and accessory terminal before the laptop would talk to it.  Laptop then confirmed, as above screenshot shows, that the circuit function configurations are what I had set up yesterday.  

 

I'll be sending a message to the Hex folks to ask for their advice.  The 2023 bikes have been around for over a year now, so surely they've heard from someone who has had to deal with this issue.

 

I expect they won't get back to me until tomorrow at the earliest.  Meanwhile, wondering if any of you have any ideas what to try next. 

 

[Bernie]

I have to start the motor to get the Clearwater Canopener to turn on the accessory relay.

Try to start the motor. It maybe something unique to the 23 models.

@Joe Frickin' Friday Update: I just checked. My brake light (Billie) turns on with the ignition and stay’s on until the CanBus times out. My accessory relay, turns on when the motor starts. It turns off when the ignition turns of. It does not time out with the CanBus, light the brake light. I don’t know if this is because it is a ClearWater Can Opener or if the Hex Unit will do the same.

[JCtx]

Any high power component doesn't energize until engine is on (like the headlight and heated seats, I believe), so it's entirely logical a separate CANbus module capable of high power accessories (like an air horn) would do the same. So I'd actually expect that to be the case. Give it a try, and report back.

[TSConver]

On 1/7/2024 at 3:18 PM, Bernie said:

I have to start the motor to get the Clearwater Canopener to turn on the accessory relay.

Try to start the motor. It maybe something unique to the 23 models.

@Joe Frickin' Friday Update: I just checked. My brake light (Billie) turns on with the ignition and stay’s on until the CanBus times out. My accessory relay, turns on when the motor starts. It turns off when the ignition turns of. It does not time out with the CanBus, light the brake light. I don’t know if this is because it is a ClearWater Can Opener or if the Hex Unit will do the same.

 

The hex unit can definitely be pituitary to remain on after key is turned off.

[Joe Frickin' Friday]

After completely uninstalling the ezCAN yesterday, I contacted the manufacturer for support.  They advised reconnecting to the bike and plugging in my laptop:

 

Quote

Thanks for the details provided. Everything sounds to be installed correctly, the RDC connector on your bike is the one you want to connect to, usually the blanking plug has a small resistor inside to avoid open circuits. 

 

While connected to the laptop and the bike with the ezCAN (if you're having trouble with it connecting while on the bike as well, I suggest attempting the selective suspension removal here , it's an update from Windows 10 that we're struggling to get completely sorted), navigate to the diagnostics screen from the top right menu > diagnostics (or click the triangle). Check firstly, whether the ezCAN is detecting battery voltage? Secondly, when turning the ignition on, does it display that CAN data is active and a CAN voltage? Some images of what you're seeing would be great.

 

I wasn't optimistic, since yesterday the ezCAN wouldn't talk to my laptop while it (the ezCAN) was installed on the bike.  But tonight I wired the ezCAN back on the bike, and waddya know, it's working fine now.  Best guess is that I might not have had the RDC's CAN plug fully seated in the ezCAN's connector.  

 

This was just a temporary electrical hookup to the bike.  Tomorrow I'll be disconnecting/reconnecting as I tuck the ezCAN's harness into its final installed location.  Hopefully it's still working after that.  

 

The tiny USB port cover seems tailor-made for easy disappearance.  I already lost mine.    And of course, they sell replacements, at a pretty dear price: $4 for two.  Plus another $4+ for shipping.