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Sandlapper

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Got a problem with my '18RT.....Got a red light blinking on dash....When i press switch nothing happens, fob is right beside switch. I've checked battery 12.5 vdc(battery is 3-4 years old and have new one on the way) and have checked fob battery 2.9 vdc.

 

Any ideas??

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Some type of neutral dead switch in play?

Try with clutch in?

In neutral?

Kickstand down, up, switch is working?

Move bike to a different spot to eliminate EFI/RFI issue? (Rare, but happens)

What is voltage on new fob battery?

 

 

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It explains in the manual on how to unlock and start the bike with a dead key fob. You may have to use your plastic key.

If that procedure doesn’t work either, then there is something wrong with the computer. It may have forgotten your key code or what ever goes on inside of it. Time to visit the dealer.

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I’ll do some more with it tomorrow…. New battery will be here tomorrow…..

 

It’s happy hour and I’ve messed with it enough today 

 

thanks For all the replies

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I would bet that the existing battery is being drawn down too low when you hit the starter switch and the electronics won't let it start. The existing battery should be load tested to see what happens with the voltage. I would bet it drops below 10 vdc. Hope the new battery solves the problem.

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I love my key ignition… just saying… I love my mechanical gauges… just saying

 

Similar to reg26, I buy fob batteries and leave one in every vehicle that has a fob. I’m never without a fresh one

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Alrighty.....Got the scooter fired up !!

 

It was a combo of the fob battery was dead and combine that with a dead bike battery and you get a total mess ....but with an added wrinkle the first fob battery I installed was also dead

 

Thanks for the help guys

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I carried a spare 2032 in the package in my tankbag for about a year.  Started getting low fob battery indication so I installed the spare.  Didn't work.  Good news is that I was at home and could get another new 2032 right away.  Seems that even with name brand batteries (Duracell, Energizer) having one in the packaging is no guarantee it will be good.  No telling how long it sat on the shelf before you bought it or what conditions is was stored in.

 

Frank

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1 hour ago, duckbubbles said:

I installed the spare

 

My 2032 batteries came on a card of 12.  It's plastic on the front and cardboard on the back.  When I get them I test them with a meter without taking them out of the package.  I just poke through the front and back with pointed leads on the meter.

 

A lesson....some thing in my boat require 2032's, double and triple A's.... So I'm so smart I put a few of each in a small zip lock sandwich bag, put them in my pelican sealed tool kit, and leave them.  Well about a year later I needed one.  All of them had corroded to the point they were garbage.  I don't know if that is cause of the sea air that got in the bags or something else.  I replaced them all by leaving them in their original cardboard packaging.  It's been about 6 months and so far so good.

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18 hours ago, Sandlapper said:

but with an added wrinkle the first fob battery I installed was also dead

This is more common that one might think with button batteries.  It has happened to me enough times that I test the new one before installing every time.  The new dead battery issue can be mitigated some by purchasing them from a big box store that turns a lot of volume (eg Costco, Wally World, and in the Midwest Menards), but I have had DOA button batteries from those sources too. Grocery and local hardware stores seems to have been the more frequent source of   my DOA button batteries.

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