Spyball Patriot alarm

[Danny01]

Hi

My 2000 R1100RS is fitted with a Sbyall Patriot 8510 alarm. It's been fitted well and was on the bike when I got it.

I'm about to change the Odyssey PC680 battery for another one and was wondering if the alarm might be draining too much.

 

The battery's been on the bike for probably nine years or so but may have lasted longer without the alarm fitted.

The Odyssey on my R60/6 lasted thirteen years with just the BMW clock 

running.

Rather than removing the alarm, was considering this plug to disable it.

Anybody have any experience?

Any help appreciated.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/255953183649?var=0&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338268676&toolid=10044&customid=CjwKCAiAmZGrBhAnEiwAo9qHicPxF_vBMA4TB9dD1lMCGMrwLr4h5LSJP8S_XZ98UT8WfJ1OeLhfvRoC89IQAvD_BwE

[dirtrider]

1 hour ago, Danny01 said:

Hi

My 2000 R1100RS is fitted with a Sbyall Patriot 8510 alarm. It's been fitted well and was on the bike when I got it.

I'm about to change the Odyssey PC680 battery for another one and was wondering if the alarm might be draining too much.

 

The battery's been on the bike for probably nine years or so but may have lasted longer without the alarm fitted.

The Odyssey on my R60/6 lasted thirteen years with just the BMW clock 

running.

Rather than removing the alarm, was considering this plug to disable it.

Anybody have any experience?

Any help appreciated.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/255953183649?var=0&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338268676&toolid=10044&customid=CjwKCAiAmZGrBhAnEiwAo9qHicPxF_vBMA4TB9dD1lMCGMrwLr4h5LSJP8S_XZ98UT8WfJ1OeLhfvRoC89IQAvD_BwE

Morning Danny01

 

I'm not familiar with that alarm but alarm systems & aftermarket turn signal relays are pretty well the biggest parasitic power drainers. Not as bad if the alarm isn't enabled.

 

In any case a 9 years on a PC-680 is good, especially of older motorcycles (like the BMW 1100) that charge at lower a voltage than the PC 680 requires.

[Danny01]

2 hours ago, dirtrider said:

Not as bad if the alarm isn't enabled.

Thanks for the reply.

That's the issue as I don't think it can be fully disabled. It does go into 'sleep' mode after five days though. I might try and check how much it's drawing on the battery with a multimeter.

[dirtrider]

15 minutes ago, Danny01 said:

Thanks for the reply.

That's the issue as I don't think it can be fully disabled. It does go into 'sleep' mode after five days though. I might try and check how much it's drawing on the battery with a multimeter.

Afternoon Danny01

 

Yes, measuring the parasitic drain is a good idea. 

 

Anything over 3.5mA (total system) will usually drain the battery over time. Some factory alarms (just the alarm part) can go up to 4.0mA all by itself if alarm is set. 

 

If your motorcycle has a Kisan signal minder then measure with that installed & removed as some of the earlier Kisan signal minders can draw a lot all by themselves.  Later ones were supposedly redesigned to lower the parasitic battery drain. 

[Danny01]

On 11/27/2023 at 4:57 PM, dirtrider said:

Afternoon Danny01

 

Yes, measuring the parasitic drain is a good idea. 

 

Anything over 3.5mA (total system) will usually drain the battery over time. Some factory alarms (just the alarm part) can go up to 4.0mA all by itself if alarm is set. 

 

Thanks.

I've fitted a new Odyssey PC680 now so will check the drain on it.

[dirtrider]

13 minutes ago, Danny01 said:

Thanks.

Just a bit confused about how to measure parasitic drain with the  battery connected.

I've fitted a new Odyssey PC680 and have checked the drain by disconnecting the negative cable and attaching a multimeter as per YT vids.

It reads -0.37mA but the alarm isn't receiving any power with the battery disconnected.

Any help appreciated.

Morning Danny01

 

Per YT vids. doesn't tell us much, might be correct way or might not. 

 

In any case, if you disconnected the (-) battery cable from the battery post then hooked your meter between the (-) battery post & the removed cable then that shows the parasitic drain as the alarm is still being powered THROUGH the meter. (the meter acts like a jumper wire between the battery post & the removed cable).

 

You have to be careful in using your meter this way as most small meters have an internal 10 amp fuse protecting the amp reading circuit  so turning the key on or trying to start the engine could blow that internal fuse.

 

On your 1100 just disconnecting the battery cable then installing the meter between battery post & removed cable is usually fairly accurate. But (for future readers) this in mainly for older motorcycles. On newer computer controlled motorcycles you need to add an additional step.   

 

You need to first connect a jumper wire (fairly decent sized wire)  between the battery post & the removed battery cable. Then turn the key to ON for long enough to allow the system to fully boot. THEN connect the meter between the battery post & removed cable, THEN turn the key to off, THEN remove the jumper wire. It can take a while for all the systems to shut down so take a reading right after jumper wire disconnect, then take another reading in about 1/2 hour later. 

[Danny01]

1 hour ago, dirtrider said:

Morning Danny01

 

Per YT vids. doesn't tell us much, might be correct way or might not. 

 

In any case, if you disconnected the (-) battery cable from the battery post then hooked your meter between the (-) battery post & the removed cable then that shows the parasitic drain as the alarm is still being powered THROUGH the meter. (the meter acts like a jumper wire between the battery post & the removed cable).

 

You have to be careful in using your meter this way as most small meters have an internal 10 amp fuse protecting the amp reading circuit  so turning the key on or trying to start the engine could blow that internal fuse.

 

On your 1100 just disconnecting the battery cable then installing the meter between battery post & removed cable is usually fairly accurate. But (for future readers) this in mainly for older motorcycles. On newer computer controlled motorcycles you need to add an additional step.   

 

You need to first connect a jumper wire (fairly decent sized wire)  between the battery post & the removed battery cable. Then turn the key to ON for long enough to allow the system to fully boot. THEN connect the meter between the battery post & removed cable, THEN turn the key to off, THEN remove the jumper wire. It can take a while for all the systems to shut down so take a reading right after jumper wire disconnect, then take another reading in about 1/2 hour later. 

Ok thanks. Yes, I see now that the tester makes the circuit.

I managed to take a reading of -03.7 with the multimeter set at 200m.

This is with the alarm in 'sleep mode'. To wake it up, I have to turn on the ignition. A reading with the alarm armed would be useful.

 

I'll try the jumper cable as disconnecting and reconnecting the negative lead causes the alarm to activate. Gets a bit noisy.

[Danny01]

This alarm is a real hassle. If battery is disconnected, then it doesn't respond to the remote after reconnecting.

Have tried realigning it as per the manual but still unable to arm/disarm it. If I turn on the ignition, the siren goes off. 

 

I'm using the spare remote as the first one wore out. It's not too bad if the bike is used daily but there's just too many settings and sequences on it.

There's a few articles online about removing the alarm but it would be quicker to take it somewhere.

[dirtrider]

3 hours ago, Danny01 said:

 

I'll try the jumper cable as disconnecting and reconnecting the negative lead causes the alarm to activate. Gets a bit noisy.

Afternoon Danny01

 

Don't disconnect that jumper if the key is on & the alarm horn is honking. Your meter probably only has 10 amp protection, the key on (headlight on/electronics on,etc ) + horn operating is probably well above 10 amps. That will probably blow the internal meter fuse. 

[Danny01]

1 hour ago, dirtrider said:

Afternoon Danny01

 

Don't disconnect that jumper if the key is on & the alarm horn is honking.  

No, that's right. I disconnected it with ignition off so I could stop the alarm sounding.

Battery drain test on hold for now as I've put the fairing panels back on. 

I had to do the emergency disarm procedure using the supplied code and also realigned the remote to get the bike ignition working. 

At least it has a new battery now.

 

[Danny01]

On 11/27/2023 at 2:08 PM, dirtrider said:

In any case a 9 years on a PC-680 is good, especially of older motorcycles (like the BMW 1100) that charge at lower a voltage than the PC 680 requires.

Didn't know about the charging thing. Thought it was sufficient on the RS. I know my R60/6 charges at a lower rate. I've also recently fitted a PC680 to that too. The previous one lasted thirteen years.

[taylor1]

35 minutes ago, Danny01 said:

previous one lasted thirteen years

Ha I have a 13 year old  PC 680 in my R60/6  I upgraded my vr years back

[Danny01]

3 hours ago, taylor1 said:

I upgraded my vr years back

Is that an electronic type regulator, just out of interest?

I fitted one and it lasted a while but then packed up. Now using the original again.

[taylor1]

If I remember correctly, been awhile, it is an Everlast adjustable v.r.  I set it for the 680 charging specs. Always thought that helped contribute to the long life of the battery. Will be 14 this spring and if it cranks like it did a month ago, I'll leave it be.