removing rear brake rotor r1100rt 1995

[dmsantam]

hello, I am trying to remove the rear brake rotor. It appears that it is mounted to a carrier with some Allen head bolts, and the carrier is then attached to the final drive housing with two countersunk Allen head bolts. 

 

my Haynes manual doesn't mention this setup, only bolted to the final drive, OR to the wheel. 

 

I assume that I need to remove the countersunk bolts first (with heat to soften Loctite), and then the other bolts when the carrier is on the bench?

 

Please let me know if that is correct and if you have any other advice before I dig in and mess it up 😅

 

cheers

[dirtrider]

21 minutes ago, dmsantam said:

hello, I am trying to remove the rear brake rotor. It appears that it is mounted to a carrier with some Allen head bolts, and the carrier is then attached to the final drive housing with two countersunk Allen head bolts. 

 

my Haynes manual doesn't mention this setup, only bolted to the final drive, OR to the wheel. 

 

I assume that I need to remove the countersunk bolts first (with heat to soften Loctite), and then the other bolts when the carrier is on the bench?

 

Please let me know if that is correct and if you have any other advice before I dig in and mess it up 😅

 

cheers

Afternoon  dmsantam

 

Yes, remove the entire carrier from the drive first. 

 

THAT can be a pain on some bikes. Definitely use heat, then a hand impact-driver usually helps a lot. But some will still strip the hex out.

 

If that happens then try using a center punch at a angle on the bolt head (about 1/2 way between the hex & the outer diameter.

 

If the bolt STILL won't budge then  drill a couple of small holes in the bolt head then use the punch in those holes at an angle. 

 

If they STILL wont budge then weld a washer on the bolt head, then weld a nut to the washer (with the welding heat I have yet to find one that won't come out this way!

[dmsantam]

Thanks dirtrider. I shall get it done as soon as I get some new bolts from the local dealer, hopefully today. cheers

[King Herald]

I swapped my rear rotor a few months back and was expecting a nightmare of seized screws etc. I dug out some star drive bit that fitted very closely, got the blow torch out, gently heated each screw in turn, and leaned on the handle..... and each one came loose fairly undramatically. I was almost disappointed.

 

They've been in the 26 years, so I guess the Loctite had kept the usual English salty road winter corrosion at bay. 

[Dave P]

DM- I also recently replaced my rear rotor and brakes R1100RT. The countersunk Allen bolts came out easier than I expected. Torx screws same deal. When I reinstalled the 5 torx, I attached the carrier backwards and lightly installed the old Allen bolts, put the bike in gear and then installed the rotor and torqued the 5 torx bolts. It was a nice way to hold the carrier while installing the bolts. Then flipped the disc over and installed the allens. D

[dmsantam]

Thanks all, got the job done today. heated up the countersunk bolts to 120C, and one came out easily, but the other was a real pain. time, heat, and some effort, and I got it out. seemed to have corroded in there. it is 28 years old afterall. 

 

the 5 bolts holding on the rotor to the carrier were easy to remove, and I reused those bolts with a drop of blue Loctite. 

 

New countersunk screws went in, they had some kind of blue Loctite from the factory.