braided brake lines for ABS disabled R1100RT 1995 model

[dmsantam]

Greetings all, my 95 1100RT has had ABS disabled by the previous owner. The master cylinder rubber hose goes to a joiner around the bottom of the triple tree, and another rubber hose goes down to the calipers. A metal line goes across to the other front caliper, and there is a very short rubber hose down to the other front caliper. 

 

On the rear, there is a single rubber hose from the rear caliper to a fitting where a metal line goes to the master cylinder. The metal line looks like it was fabricated to bypass the ABS unit. 

 

I am looking to replace the hoses with braided lines, as they're 28 years old now. Is there an existing off the shelf setup that will work? or do i need to remove the hoses and take them to a supplier to custom make? I would like to avoid the join in the front hoses. 

 

I am based in Australia, in case that matters. 

 

cheers,

[szurszewski]

Here in the states I'd say call Ted Porter at Beemer Shop (in California) and tell him what you just told us. He is a Spiegler dealer and would know exactly what you need and could tell you what was stock and not. 

 

Max BMW here in the NE US has what might be some useful parts diagrams for you:

https://shop.maxbmw.com/fiche/DiagramsMain.aspx?vid=51680&rnd=09082020

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Lowndes]

Hi, dmsantam, welcome to the forum.

 

I replaced the lines on a '99 R1100S several years back, did the same thing you are doing at the front end.

 

There are several makers of these PTFE lines for bikes.  I chose Spiegler back then for some reason.  Galfer was another choice. 

 

I'm in the states and used  https://spieglerusa.com/  The main office is in Germany, I think.  You may have one down under.  These US links may help you see how to do it.

 

Spiegler shows several solutions for the front brakes:

 

 

I chose to far right solution (Rennsport??).

 

At the time they told me that all "kits", stock or special, were made up after the order is placed because there are so many possible combinations of colors (lines and end fittings) plus custom length requirements for barbacks and such.  Plus guys like you and me that want to do things a little different.  It only took them a day or two to ship my order.

 

 

There are also many pages of special fittings.   https://spieglerusa.com/brakes/brake-lines-accessories-tools/brake-line-accessories.html

 

You will need to specify the lengths of the hoses, the color, and the end fittings and colors for each individual line.  https://spieglerusa.com/brakes/brake-lines-accessories-tools/custom-brake-lines.html

 

Don't forget to measure the front lines with the front fork fully extended (off the ground).  On the rear replace the line to the reservoir, too.  They have that also.

 

 

What else??

 

Take pics and post 'em.  

[Dave P]

DM- I used an off the shelf set of lines from Galfer for my 96 RT. went on pretty easy. D

[Lowndes]

I forgot to mention two things about doing the brake lines:

 

There are a few suppliers that use the "braided stainless steel reinforced PTFE" without the plastic coating on the outside of the SS.  Avoid these.  The unprotected SS braid with a little vibration will eat thru plastic panels, fenders, sheaths, wiring insulation and whatever else they can find.  Spiegler and Galfer both use the much better coated lines.

 

While you have the system apart, it is a very good time to clean the calipers, inside and out. There are usually some exterior sliding pins or rails that need to be cleaned and lubed.   Then the calipers are at the very bottom of the hydraulic systems and collect any crud from the decomposing OEM brake lines AND the contaminated DOT4 brake fluid.  AMHIK.  The DOT4 gets contaminated from moisture in the air that is admitted whenever the system is opened.  The water is heavier and sinks to the bottom, and the bottom is the calipers.  And, the pistons and galleries in the calipers are NOT flushed when you open the bleed nipple, strange as it may seem.  Remove the pistons and wipe out the cylinders and blow out the galleries with compressed air.  Otherwise you are reassembling with dirty parts. 

 

I split my calipers but it isn't necessary to remove or clean the pistons and cylinders.  My pics here:  https://photos.app.goo.gl/kN8PyDxEirl9iVS02

 

If you still have one of these fittings on your calipers or hydraulic clutch, you can safely remove it and replace with a standard bleed nipple.  These are disposable quick fill fittings installed at the factory to speed-fill the system.