99 R1100RT Rear ABS Brake Effectiveness?

[Witty_Low]

Hi all. When I brake, I use mostly front brakes and some rear brakes until I slow down to about 10mph and then I gradually shift from front to rear brakes to bring the bike to a stop. It feels like the rear brakes by themselves at 10mph and slower does not stop the bike and I have to use the front to help the rear stop the bike. Is this normal for this bike? I just got it a week ago. All fluids are ok and lines look ok,  although I just ordered stainless braided lines. Thanks in advance!

[dirtrider]

29 minutes ago, Witty_Low said:

Hi all. When I brake, I use mostly front brakes and some rear brakes until I slow down to about 10mph and then I gradually shift from front to rear brakes to bring the bike to a stop. It feels like the rear brakes by themselves at 10mph and slower does not stop the bike and I have to use the front to help the rear stop the bike. Is this normal for this bike? I just got it a week ago. All fluids are ok and lines look ok,  although I just ordered stainless braided lines. Thanks in advance!

Evening Witty_Low

 

Difficult to tell without feeling the rear brake. It should easily be able to stop the motorcycle from 10 mph. If your ABS is still working see if you can lock the rear wheel up at 10 mph.   

 

The rear brake on the BMW 1100rt was a little problem as it could force the braking into rear-wheel anti-lift mode if stopping hard on chatter bumps, road ripples,  or with gravel on the pavement so a number of riders (including myself) would put the 1100R  organic brake pads on the rear brake to tame the rear braking down a little.  

 

Is your rear brake rotor clean with no oil or contamination on it? 

 

Is the rear caliper brake caliper free on the pins?

[Witty_Low]

7 minutes ago, dirtrider said:

Evening Witty_Low

 

Difficult to tell without feeling the rear brake. It should easily be able to stop the motorcycle from 10 mph. If your ABS is still working see if you can lock the rear wheel up at 10 mph.   

 

The rear brake on the BMW 1100rt was a little problem as it could force the braking into rear-wheel anti-lift mode if stopping hard on chatter bumps, road ripples,  or with gravel on the pavement so a number of riders (including myself) would put the 1100R  organic brake pads on the rear brake to tame the rear braking down a little.  

 

Is your rear brake rotor clean with no oil or contamination on it? 

 

Is the rear caliper brake caliper free on the pins?

Good evening dirtrider,

Rotors are clean and the rear wheel spins freely.  I'll try to lock up the rear and report back.  Thank you!

[Paddler]

If it's any help, the rear brake on thr R1100R never did much.  I recently switched to SS braided lines and it seems to work a little better, but it's not as effective as the rear brakes on my R1250RS.

[Witty_Low]

10 hours ago, Paddler said:

If it's any help, the rear brake on thr R1100R never did much.  I recently switched to SS braided lines and it seems to work a little better, but it's not as effective as the rear brakes on my R1250RS.

Paddler, That's good to know. I ordered the stainless lines for mine, so we'll see what happens. I was supposed to report back to dirtrider on whether I can lock up the rear, but it will be raining for a few days so that test will be delayed. Thanks for the input!

[Witty_Low]

On 10/20/2023 at 5:09 PM, dirtrider said:

Evening Witty_Low

 

Difficult to tell without feeling the rear brake. It should easily be able to stop the motorcycle from 10 mph. If your ABS is still working see if you can lock the rear wheel up at 10 mph.   

 

The rear brake on the BMW 1100rt was a little problem as it could force the braking into rear-wheel anti-lift mode if stopping hard on chatter bumps, road ripples,  or with gravel on the pavement so a number of riders (including myself) would put the 1100R  organic brake pads on the rear brake to tame the rear braking down a little.  

 

Is your rear brake rotor clean with no oil or contamination on it? 

 

Is the rear caliper brake caliper free on the pins?

So I took it out today and was not able to lockup the back tire. My braided lines just happened to come in today as well. I'll try again after changing out the lines. Weird. Thanks for your help!

[dirtrider]

42 minutes ago, Witty_Low said:

So I took it out today and was not able to lockup the back tire. My braided lines just happened to come in today as well. I'll try again after changing out the lines. Weird. Thanks for your help!

Evening Witty_Low

 

Did the rear ABS engage? That will prevent rear wheel  lock-up, but if the ABS activated when you applied enough rear braking to get ABS action then your have enough rear braking.  

[Witty_Low]

1 minute ago, dirtrider said:

Evening Witty_Low

 

Did the rear ABS engage? That will prevent rear wheel  lock-up, but if the ABS activated when you applied enough rear braking to get ABS action then your have enough rear braking.  

Good evening dirtrider,

Let's put it this way, everytime I'm coming to a stop, I have to use the front brakes at the last minute because the rear is not stopping the bike at slow speeds. Once I start changing out my lines to braided lines, I should be able to inspect it more closely. I can't tell if the ABS engaged. It might be something simple. Thank you for your follow up!

[dirtrider]

18 minutes ago, Witty_Low said:

Good evening dirtrider,

Let's put it this way, everytime I'm coming to a stop, I have to use the front brakes at the last minute because the rear is not stopping the bike at slow speeds. Once I start changing out my lines to braided lines, I should be able to inspect it more closely. I can't tell if the ABS engaged. It might be something simple. Thank you for your follow up!

Evening Witty_Low

 

Once you are under 4 or 5 mph the ABS should not intervene so you go to non ABS braking. 

 

If you absolutely need the front brake then you definitely have a problem with  the rear brake. 

 

When you install the new lines make sure that the rear caliper is free to move on it's mounting pins. If it is seized up that can prevent proper braking ability. 

[Witty_Low]

1 hour ago, dirtrider said:

Evening Witty_Low

 

Once you are under 4 or 5 mph the ABS should not intervene so you go to non ABS braking. 

 

If you absolutely need the front brake then you definitely have a problem with  the rear brake. 

 

When you install the new lines make sure that the rear caliper is free to move on it's mounting pins. If it is seized up that can prevent proper braking ability. 

Thank you dirtrider. I will.

[Dave P]

Witty- there was a thread somewhere on here about bleeding oilhead lines. I mentioned when I replaced the lines on my 96 RT, I bled the ABS block as well as at the calipers. The fluid in the abs block was filthy! Id suggest bleeding the abs block when your lines are back on there. Dave

[Witty_Low]

1 hour ago, Dave P said:

Witty- there was a thread somewhere on here about bleeding oilhead lines. I mentioned when I replaced the lines on my 96 RT, I bled the ABS block as well as at the calipers. The fluid in the abs block was filthy! Id suggest bleeding the abs block when your lines are back on there. Dave

Dave P,

You read my mind! I was going to bleed the ABS for good measure anyway. That takes care of the ABS and brake lines for a while. Thank you!