TB Vacuum Line Elimination

[PopPop]

I've seen were oilhead owners have placed a cap over the nipple on the bottom of the throttle body. Even heard it said capping is preferred.

Can anyone explain what should be done with the unattached hose if you go this route. Should it be plugged? Removed? Where the blazes do the hoses lead to?

[dirtrider]

44 minutes ago, PopPop said:

I've seen were oilhead owners have placed a cap over the nipple on the bottom of the throttle body. Even heard it said capping is preferred.

Can anyone explain what should be done with the unattached hose if you go this route. Should it be plugged? Removed? Where the blazes do the hoses lead to?

Morning  PopPop

 

If you plug the TB nipples then just remove the hoses then remove the purge solenoid from the L/H side of motorcycle. If you plug the nipples that stops the Evaporation  canister from purging so that should also be removed & the fuel tank vent going to the Evap can terminated behind the riders foot peg (cut the vent hose lower end to have a 45° angle so it doesn't suck road water into the fuel tank.

[PopPop]

Thanks Dirtrider. It appears the canister was removed prior to my ownership. I would've mentioned but failed to consider its relationship to the TBs. The tank has two open hoses that terminate behind the right heel. There's also a 3rd open-ended hose tied in with those two. I reckon it's not from the TBs since that'd be the opposite of capping them. I'll try to find a schematic and determine if the bike is still sporting evap related components/hoses even though the canister is gone.

Thanks again,

Clay

[dirtrider]

51 minutes ago, PopPop said:

Thanks Dirtrider. It appears the canister was removed prior to my ownership. I would've mentioned but failed to consider its relationship to the TBs. The tank has two open hoses that terminate behind the right heel. There's also a 3rd open-ended hose tied in with those two. I reckon it's not from the TBs since that'd be the opposite of capping them. I'll try to find a schematic and determine if the bike is still sporting evap related components/hoses even though the canister is gone.

Thanks again,

Clay

 Afternoon PopPop

 

If the Evap canister is gone then a schematic will be of little help as the hoses could have been messed with.

 

Basically remove all the  rear hoses & hoses going to & from the purge solenoid. 

 

There should be 2 smaller diameter hoses coming out of the fuel pump pass through (same place the fuel pressure/return hoses come from). 

 

With no canister in place those 2 hoses don't need to be identified by where they originate as both hoses need to terminate behind the riders R/H foot peg. 

 

One of those small diameter hoses is the fuel filler cap drain & the other small dimeter hose is the fuel tank vent hose. 

 

The small diameter hose from the fuel filler cap drain should already be running to behind the R/H foot peg.

 

You will need to route the tank vent hose to behind the riders foot peg, if it isn't long enough then use a portion one of the removed hoses to extend the vent hose to be long enough.  

 

 

 

[PopPop]

1 hour ago, dirtrider said:

 Afternoon PopPop

 

If the Evap canister is gone then a schematic will be of little help as the hoses could have been messed with.

 

Basically remove all the  rear hoses & hoses going to & from the purge solenoid. 

 

There should be 2 smaller diameter hoses coming out of the fuel pump pass through (same place the fuel pressure/return hoses come from). 

 

With no canister in place those 2 hoses don't need to be identified by where they originate as both hoses need to terminate behind the riders R/H foot peg. 

 

One of those small diameter hoses is the fuel filler cap drain & the other small dimeter hose is the fuel tank vent hose. 

 

The small diameter hose from the fuel filler cap drain should already be running to behind the R/H foot peg.

 

You will need to route the tank vent hose to behind the riders foot peg, if it isn't long enough then use a portion one of the removed hoses to extend the vent hose to be long enough.  

 

 

 

I appreciate that Dirtrider. I just wanted to reference a schematic to learn where the emissions components are located and what they look like. I discovered that although the charcoal canister was MIA, the bike still has the purge valve and related tubing (albeit the tube is plugged with a small bolt). 

As soon as I'm able, I'll pick up some rubber caps so I can delete the valve and superfluous plumbing.

Questions:

Is there a specific cap size for TB unions?

Also, what should I do with the electrical connector currently attached the the valve? Seems possibly problematic to leave the disconnected plug open to the environment. 

Lastly, will the bike's computer have an issue with a missing purge valve? 

I add a photo of the valve present condition and one of the hoses behind the right heel...

Thanks for any guidance. 

Clay

[dirtrider]

40 minutes ago, PopPop said:

I appreciate that Dirtrider. I just wanted to reference a schematic to learn where the emissions components are located and what they look like. I discovered that although the charcoal canister was MIA, the bike still has the purge valve and related tubing (albeit the tube is plugged with a small bolt). 

As soon as I'm able, I'll pick up some rubber caps so I can delete the valve and superfluous plumbing.

Questions:

Is there a specific cap size for TB unions?

Also, what should I do with the electrical connector currently attached the the valve? Seems possibly problematic to leave the disconnected plug open to the environment. 

Lastly, will the bike's computer have an issue with a missing purge valve? 

I add a photo of the valve present condition and one of the hoses behind the right heel...

Thanks for any guidance. 

Clay

Afternoon PopPop

 

On the cap size, it's metric but just find a couple that will fit tight.  A lot or riders just cut off an inch or so of the removed hose then stick a short screw in it then push that on the TB nipple.  

 

If you use auto parts store caps, or E-Bay caps, just make darn sure that they are fuel proof, non fuel proof will eventually swell then a leak, or fall off. 

 

Just stick the removed connector up in a safe place then zip tie it there (that is what the factory did on non Evap equipped boxer bikes) 

 

On the existing hoses in your picture, 2 are for the ABS pump reservoir cap vents (if you have an early 1150) Or one could be that your tank vent is already vented to behind the foot peg if you have a late 1150 motorcycle. The third hose should be the fuel cap ring drain hose. (so you might only need to add the fuel tank vent hose unless it is already there)

 

Your Motronic 2.4 (computer) won't have any idea that it is missing as there is no purge valve feed back & no code to store. 

[PopPop]

Excellent reminder to ensure the caps are not only tight, but impervious to fuel.  Thanks!

Another happy takeaway - the factory sent charcoal free models out with the servo's electrical connector just zip-tied out of the way.  Thanks very much for little nugget!

 

For clarification, I just double-checked and two of the three hoses terminating behind the right heel (pictured) run to the fuel pump flange.  The shortest one of the trio appears to go to the area of the ABS system.  Does this mean I'm missing an ABS hose?

 

Apologies for the barrage of questions. 

[dirtrider]

14 minutes ago, PopPop said:

Excellent reminder to ensure the caps are not only tight, but impervious to fuel.  Thanks!

Another happy takeaway - the factory sent charcoal free models out with the servo's electrical connector just zip-tied out of the way.  Thanks very much for little nugget!

 

For clarification, I just double-checked and two of the three hoses terminating behind the right heel (pictured) run to the fuel pump flange.  The shortest one of the trio appears to go to the area of the ABS system.  Does this mean I'm missing an ABS hose?

 

Apologies for the barrage of questions. 

Afternoon PopPop

 

No, some of the early 1150 bikes had a hose going to each ABS  reservoir, later 1150 bikes had a single hose that had a "Y" up by the ABS system so both reservoirs shared the one hose. Real late 1150 bikes  had a shared a fluid catch container up by the ABS pump with a single vent hose to R/H foot peg area. 

 

No, 

[PopPop]

56 minutes ago, dirtrider said:

Afternoon PopPop

 

No, some of the early 1150 bikes had a hose going to each ABS  reservoir, later 1150 bikes had a single hose that had a "Y" up by the ABS system so both reservoirs shared the one hose. Real late 1150 bikes  had a shared a fluid catch container up by the ABS pump with a single vent hose to R/H foot peg area. 

 

No, 

Roger that.  I don't know how to determine the date of manufacturer; however, it's late enough that it's equipped with two plugs per cylinder.  I gather that's an indication of a later model 1150.

 

Thanks and best,

Clay