Oil change procedure? Unexpected valve clatter !

[009jim]

Hey Folks, Yesterday I changed my oil and filter on my 2012 RT for the first time. Bike has 26,000 km, of which I have done 7000 km. Oil was nice and hot and drained quickly. After I replaced the oil and started her up, there was about 5 -10 seconds of loud valve clatter from the LHS until the oil flow got there. Is this normal? I filled the filter with oil before I installed it. The bike was on the centre stand. Should I have put it on the side stand to move some oil to the LHS head? Should I crank the engine with the kill-switch "off" first, to restore the oil to the galleries, before I start?

[Hati]

13 hours ago, 009jim said:

After I replaced the oil and started her up, there was about 5 -10 seconds of loud valve clatter from the LHS until the oil flow got there. Is this normal?

 

It is factory normal, yes, due to the chain tensioner losing oil and allowing the chain to run somewhat looser for a little while after start-up. The only real problem is the noise it makes. They do have an improved version that holds oil longer, at least they did for the hex head RT I had (one before your cam head design). They even have one for the current water-cooled 1250 RT as well, so likely cam head tensioners are available too. Not sure if the DOHC upgrade meant different tensioners, but you can look that up easy enough.

[6speedTi]

My camhead has that same sound. First start after oil change.  Lasts about 2 seconds or so. Makes me cringe when I hear it but nothing I can do about it. Like most owners I fill the oil filter up with oil before installing it. You'll notice after it starts the sound lasts as long as the oil pressure light stays on. Then both go away simultaneously. 

[Hosstage]

17 hours ago, 009jim said:

Should I crank the engine with the kill-switch "off" first, to restore the oil to the galleries, before I start?

Not sure how you'd do that unless you jump the starter. 

Yes, that would help get oil circulated before start up, but not sure it's really necessary. As long as it quiets down relatively quickly you should be good to go.

I've found that it takes two or three times of pouring oil into the filter before install to get it mostly filled. The first pour soaks in and is not a lot of oil, takes a couple more times to get it saturated. That seems to quicken the circulation at first start up.

[jdub53]

Timely thread. Just this morning, I finished the second oil and filter change since buying my '13 RT (plus a whole lot of other items done to it). I've normally always filled the filter with oil on my past Oilheads and Hexhead, but never even thought about it this morning.

 

Can't say that I noticed any difference after starting as the oil light was on and the engine was noisy for about two seconds before idling quietly. I couldn't fill the filter first on my previous Wethead GS, as the filter screws horizontally onto the side of the crankcase and it acted the same upon initial start up.

[Hosstage]

My filter is also horizontal, I fill it a couple times, let it soak into the pleats, no oil leakage when I install it.

[jdub53]

19 minutes ago, Hosstage said:

My filter is also horizontal, I fill it a couple times, let it soak into the pleats, no oil leakage when I install it.

 

My Camhead has a vertically mounted filter like my Oilheads and Hexhead (screws upward into the crankcase).

[Skywagon]

Normal noise. Will be the same on your car. I never fill the oil filter first. I don’t put in the full amount at first because there is always some residual. I’ll keep about a pint or two and wait until I’ve run it first to top it off. Overfilling these engines is not good. 

[Indy Dave]

On 10/1/2023 at 7:39 AM, Hati said:

 

It is factory normal, yes, due to the chain tensioner losing oil and allowing the chain to run somewhat looser for a little while after start-up. The only real problem is the noise it makes. They do have an improved version that holds oil longer, at least they did for the hex head RT I had (one before your cam head design). They even have one for the current water-cooled 1250 RT as well, so likely cam head tensioners are available too. Not sure if the DOHC upgrade meant different tensioners, but you can look that up easy enough.

 

I have the latest CCT for the left side, it hasn't stopped the start-up noise on the left side.