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Gas Octane


Steveyacht

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I have been using 91 to 93 octane gas since I bought my RT. Is it ok to use midgrade, ie: 89 octane?  Not that I'm cheap, but if there is no upside to use the more expensive gas, sometimes $.40 per gallon more than 89 octane, why should I?  That or am I just being too frugal?

 

Thanks in advance, 

 

S

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Yes, you are being too frugal.    The cheapest thing on  BMW motorcycle...........is 

Spoiler

the NUT in the seat!!!   :grin:

 

 

I alternate between mid and high.   Mostly mid grade twice per 1 high octane.   I commute with the bike every other week.   When on rides in the twisties, I have to take what I can get.   That translates to filling up with the good stuff prior to leaving out.    

 

No performance issues so far.   

 

Your miles kilometers may vary.

 

 

:yes:

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The only thing you might see is slightly less mileage and/or power. Won’t hurt your engine. I think it’s well know that premium gas and gas grades in general have always been a way to get us to pay more for gas but is only absolutely required in very few engines.

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IIUC, the bike has a knock sensor and will retard performance to eliminate knocking.  Consequently, you would not damage the engine, but you might not have full performance.  Probably not an issue in commuting or city driving.  You might prefer premium for canyon carving.  I don't believe fuel economy would be adversely affected.  If, as I understand it, the energy content isn't any different, just the resistance to knocking varies between the grades.  In fact, it might go up since the engine might be running in a more conservative manner.  

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1 hour ago, Twisties said:

IIUC, the bike has a knock sensor and will retard performance to eliminate knocking.  Consequently, you would not damage the engine, but you might not have full performance.  Probably not an issue in commuting or city driving.  You might prefer premium for canyon carving.  I don't believe fuel economy would be adversely affected.  If, as I understand it, the energy content isn't any different, just the resistance to knocking varies between the grades.  In fact, it might go up since the engine might be running in a more conservative manner.  

 

The 1250s have knock sensors, the 1200 WC motors do not.

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From my research on the Internet (so we know it must be right ;)), BMW recommends we use 95 octane RON (which is the primary European octane standard). The 95 octane RON is equivalent to 91 octane standard used in the United States (MON/PON). 

 

Personally, I always use "premium" grade, which is usually a 91 or 93 octane. I prefer to hedge a little on the wholesale quality of whatever distributor is filling up a station's tanks. Most mid-grades in my area are 89 octane. Probably what is just as important, if not more important, is the "quality" of the fuel we use (i.e., the additive package used by the brand). That is another down-the-rabbit-hole conversation.

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Somewhat little know fact is that higher octane fuel burns at a lower temperature than fuel of a lower octane at a given power setting. Many people believe it to be the opposite. Not suggesting it will harm the engine but lower octane does produce more heat.

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My understanding is that higher octane fuel burns slower, which allows for more compression. It will actually lower horsepower in a motor set up with lower compression for lower octane fuel.

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4 hours ago, Bill Murray said:

..That is another down-the-rabbit-hole conversation.

 

And then, there is the altitude where you operate...  Sometimes at high altitude, 89 is the best you can find. 

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2 hours ago, Hosstage said:

My understanding is that higher octane fuel burns slower, which allows for more compression.

 

The higher the octane rating the more the fuel can be compressed before it self ignites. This self-ignition is what is called "knock". Since timing of the ignition is everything for an engine, doesn't take too much imagination to work out what badly timed ignition due to lower octane fuel can damage in your engine. 

 

 

6 hours ago, Daveyator said:

I think it’s well know that premium gas and gas grades in general have always been a way to get us to pay more for gas but is only absolutely required in very few engines.

 

I think you couldn't be more wrong if you tired. As per above, the higher your engine's compression ration, the higher the octane requirements so the fuel detonates on ignition from the spark plug, not self ignite like what happens in a diesel engine. There is a minimum recommendation for a reason, nothing to do with trying to rip people off. High performance engines generally need higher octane fuel because the compression ratio of those engines is higher. Higher compression = more power output.

 

The factory recommendation is there for a reason. BMW engineers do not get a retainer form oil companies to herd their customers to the more expensive fuel bowsers...

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My 200

7 hours ago, Hosstage said:

What does your owners manual recommend?

 

My 2006 RT says

Recommended fuel grade
Super Plus (premium), unleaded
98 ROZ
Fuel grade, usable with
power- and consumption related
restrictions
Regular, unleaded
91 ROZ

 

My 2019 GSA says

Recommended fuel quality

Super unleaded (max. 15 %
ethanol, E15)
89 AKI (95 ROZ/RON)
90 AKI
Alternative fuel quality
Normal unleaded (with performance
penalty) (max. 15 %
ethanol, E15)
87 AKI (91 ROZ/RON)
87 AKI

 

All that gibberish means to me is that I've been fine running regular fuel mostly

 

'memba, there's "recommended" and "required", if it is not "required", tis only a "recommendation" that you use a specific, kinda like "I recommend you to eat at McDonalds", I don't "require" you to eat there.

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18 hours ago, Rougarou said:

My 200

 

My 2006 RT says

Recommended fuel grade
Super Plus (premium), unleaded
98 ROZ
Fuel grade, usable with
power- and consumption related
restrictions
Regular, unleaded
91 ROZ

 

My 2019 GSA says

Recommended fuel quality

Super unleaded (max. 15 %
ethanol, E15)
89 AKI (95 ROZ/RON)
90 AKI
Alternative fuel quality
Normal unleaded (with performance
penalty) (max. 15 %
ethanol, E15)
87 AKI (91 ROZ/RON)
87 AKI

 

All that gibberish means to me is that I've been fine running regular fuel mostly

 

'memba, there's "recommended" and "required", if it is not "required", tis only a "recommendation" that you use a specific, kinda like "I recommend you to eat at McDonalds", I don't "require" you to eat there.

That’s kinda what I was getting at. 

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22 hours ago, Hati said:

I think you couldn't be more wrong if you tired. As per above, the higher your engine's compression ration, the higher the octane requirements so the fuel detonates on ignition from the spark plug, not self ignite like what happens in a diesel engine. There is a minimum recommendation for a reason, nothing to do with trying to rip people off. High performance engines generally need higher octane fuel because the compression ratio of those engines is higher. Higher compression = more power output.

 

The factory recommendation is there for a reason. BMW engineers do not get a retainer form oil companies to herd their customers to the more expensive fuel bowsers...

So, if the only thing standing between you and a tow truck is a gas pump with 87 octane in it you won’t gas up because it might hurt your engine? In a lot of states here in the US it’s hard to find anything higher than 91. On top of that as I’m sure you know, the octane rating of fuel starts dropping almost immediately after coming out of the pump. If these engines were so ultra sensitive to lower octane fuels, we be given stern warnings and possible directions to use octane boosters. But they’re not. Will they run their best on lower octane fuel? No. But will they be damaged or prematurely worn by using it? No. Manufacturers know there’s huge variances in fuel grades available. They account for that in engines made for general consumers.

Edited by Daveyator
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Here in Canada most 91 octane fuel is ethanol free.  87 octane contains 10% or more ethanol.  I do my best to avoid ethanol.  It may not make much difference if burned right away but when left sitting in the bike for long, it absorbs moisture and causes corrosion.

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2 hours ago, Daveyator said:

So, if the only thing standing between you and a tow truck is a gas pump with 87 octane in it you won’t gas up because it might hurt your engine?

 

No, I never said that. I simply dismissed your conspiracy theory on the usage of higher octane fuel.

 

I have used in the past and will use in the future lower octane if there is nothing else available, but under normal circumstances I go for the recommended grade or better. 

 

2 hours ago, Daveyator said:

I’m sure you know, the octane rating of fuel starts dropping almost immediately after coming out of the pump

 

No, I don't, mostly because it's not true. Most fuels will hold their octane rating for a few months. Don't just believe me, do your own research instead of repeating hearsay 

 

2 hours ago, Daveyator said:

If these engines were so ultra sensitive to lower octane fuels, we be given stern warnings and possible directions to use octane boosters.

 

Nobody, not even the manufacturers said that these engines are "ultra sensitive". There is a difference though to regular use opposed to occasional use of lower grade fuel.

 

2 hours ago, Daveyator said:

But will they be damaged or prematurely worn by using it? No.

 

Not true, if used all of the time. But hey, feel free to believe whatever you like and fill your bike with whatever grade of fuel you want. No skin off my nose :P

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We have 91 and 93 octane here locally (10% ethanol) and 90 octane non-ethanol.

 

I generally use the 90 octane "non" when the pump is available as it's a single source pump and I won't be getting two gallons of whatever went there before me while using the other pumps.

 

I have had to use the 87 octane when traveling way out west as at a lot of fueling stations, that's all they have.   When forced to use the 87 octane I simply ride a bit more conservative (no racing that 18 year old clown in daddy's Porsche) until the next decent fill up.

 

I do like the non-ethanol fuel as it appears to give me slightly better mileage but that might also be due to the higher elevations when out west.

 

I generally run through almost 2 tanks a week here at home so the ethanol problems really don't come into play with me but I still like the non-ethanol 90 octane even in spite of the higher price locally.

 

AD

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5 hours ago, ADulay said:

I generally run through almost 2 tanks a week here at home so the ethanol problems really don't come into play with me but I still like the non-ethanol 90 octane even in spite of the higher price locally.

 

AD

Well, no sooner did I post that when it turned out I needed fuel coming back from the range this afternoon.

 

Checked the prices and sunofagun it turns out that 90 octane non-ethanol is the same price as 91 octane with ethanol at my local Mobil station.

 

AD

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22 hours ago, Hati said:

 

No, I never said that. I simply dismissed your conspiracy theory on the usage of higher octane fuel.

 

I have used in the past and will use in the future lower octane if there is nothing else available, but under normal circumstances I go for the recommended grade or better. 

 

 

No, I don't, mostly because it's not true. Most fuels will hold their octane rating for a few months. Don't just believe me, do your own research instead of repeating hearsay 

 

 

Nobody, not even the manufacturers said that these engines are "ultra sensitive". There is a difference though to regular use opposed to occasional use of lower grade fuel.

 

 

Not true, if used all of the time.

22 hours ago, Hati said:

 

No, I never said that. I simply dismissed your conspiracy theory on the usage of higher octane fuel.

 

I have used in the past and will use in the future lower octane if there is nothing else available, but under normal circumstances I go for the recommended grade or better. 

 

 

No, I don't, mostly because it's not true. Most fuels will hold their octane rating for a few months. Don't just believe me, do your own research instead of repeating hearsay 

 

 

Nobody, not even the manufacturers said that these engines are "ultra sensitive". There is a difference though to regular use opposed to occasional use of lower grade fuel.

 

 

Not true, if used all of the time. But hey, feel free to believe whatever you like and fill your bike with whatever grade of fuel you want. No skin off my nose :P

But hey, feel free to believe whatever you like and fill your bike with whatever grade of fuel you want. No skin off my nose :P

My 2020 GS did fine on a steady diet of 87 octane for 93k miles of ownership.

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I have had to run a ton of 87 in my travels. On my 4th RT starting in ‘04. Sure I prefer 89 but sometimes 87 is all there is. I’ve had no pinging problems to date. 

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SteveYacht... I couldn't tell from your original question which RT you have.  My 2014 manual calls for 89.  I usually buy premium but would have no issue using 89 and I have on many occasions.  I buy ethanol free when I can find it.  Fuel is cheap, engines not so much.

 

BMW has a bit of a reputation for not always recognizing warranty when the owner uses fluids be it fuel, oil, gear, brake fluid...etc it you don't follow the recommendations and document the fluids if you are a DIY'er.  I truly believe there is no way BMW would list 89 as their recommendation if it wasn't adequate for the engine.  They don't want warranty claims based on their recommendations to use certain fluids.

 

I think that was the intent of your original post.  I'm on my 3rd RT.  I've not had any issues caused by fuel or other fluids.  I don't always buy BMW brand, but I stay within their specs.  

 

Which RT are you riding?  Sorry if I missed it.

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6 hours ago, Dave_in_TX said:

My 2020 GS did fine on a steady diet of 87 octane for 93k miles of ownership.

 

I don't remember exactly when did BMW introduce the knock sensors, but your shift cam definitely has it. It then retards the ignition to allow for the lower grade fuel and that manifests in lesser performance. Feel free to deprive yourself of performance for the sake of a few dollars. 

 

Personally I don't care what you or anyone else fills their bikes with. You bike, your money. But I do have a problem with misinformation. Misinformation such as motor vehicle manufacturers having a deal in place with fuel companies to con the public into using higher grade than necessary fuel.

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If lower octane was unacceptable, the manual would not mention it.

 

My Hexhead manual recommends (98RON/93AKI), but it runs just fine on the listed alternate (95 RON/91 AKI).  It has a sensor to detect and stop knock with a timing adjustment, which does reduce power and slightly reduces fuel mileage. A few times when 87 AKI was the only option, a  couple gallons added to the gallon in reserve got me to another station with 91 or 93 without pinging.  I only detected the power loss as reduced acceleration when passing on back roads.  

 

The Wethead R1200 engine did not have a knock sensor, and recommended only 91 AKI. The 87 AKI option required a programming change by a dealer. 

 

 The knock sensor is back on the R1250 engines, and the alternate, lower octane, fuel option is back in the owners manual.

 

Higher than recommended octane will not provide any benefit, while lower than recommended octane may damage your engine. Within the acceptable range, lower octane will slightly reduce power and fuel mileage.  You may not notice the performance difference in everyday riding, and the lower price/gallon may outweigh the reduced mileage.

 

It's not that hard to just follow your manual.

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6 hours ago, lkraus said:

Higher than recommended octane will not provide any benefit

 

Generally, you are correct. Some parts of the world though, like mine for example, the higher grade fuel is also cleaner, measurably. Leaving you with less sediments in the tank and cleaner filters for longer. Does give you a tiny bit of extra power, but not enough to balance the higher price you pay. Don't know how the American fuel industry works, so speak of only the Australian conditions in this regard.

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On 9/17/2023 at 10:16 PM, Hati said:

 

I don't remember exactly when did BMW introduce the knock sensors, but your shift cam definitely has it. It then retards the ignition to allow for the lower grade fuel and that manifests in lesser performance. Feel free to deprive yourself of performance for the sake of a few dollars. 

 

Personally I don't care what you or anyone else fills their bikes with. You bike, your money. But I do have a problem with misinformation. Misinformation such as motor vehicle manufacturers having a deal in place with fuel companies to con the public into using higher grade than necessary fuel.

Yes, the 1200 wetheads did not have a knock sensor but the 1250, 1200 hexhead and 1200 camhead did. As for lower performance, I did not notice any difference, the few times I ran higher octane in my 1250. I also ran 87 for tens of thousands of miles without problems on my 1200 wethead which had 132k miles on it when sold. If spending more on gas makes you happy, feel free to do so.

 

Personally, I am more concerned with using top tier gas when available, rather than getting higher octane.

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2014 GS manual calls for Super unleaded (95 RON). Warns that if lower octane fuels are to be used that the engine should be reprogrammed by BMW. Would be surprised if an RT  is different. Seems pretty specific. Reprogrammed means timing retarded to prevent detonation. I have looked at enough pistons with pock marked surfaces and eroded ring lands from detonation to realize detonation is a no-no. Higher octane fuel is much cheaper than engine damage. 1250's have knock sensors. Doesn't mean they prevent knock, they detect it, then retard timing to mitigate it. Don't understand using regular fuel on a regular basis in a 12.5 to 1 compression ratio high end motorcycle. Most cars running regular have 8.7 - 9.0 compression. Just goes to prove that the cheapest thing on a BMW motorcycle, is the rider!

Screenshot_20230928_192809_File manager.jpg

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8 hours ago, Toter said:

 

2014 GS manual calls for Super unleaded (95 RON). Warns that if lower octane fuels are to be used that the engine should be reprogrammed by BMW. Would be surprised if an RT  is different. Seems pretty specific. Reprogrammed means timing retarded to prevent detonation. I have looked at enough pistons with pock marked surfaces and eroded ring lands from detonation to realize detonation is a no-no. Higher octane fuel is much cheaper than engine damage. 1250's have knock sensors. Doesn't mean they prevent knock, they detect it, then retard timing to mitigate it. Don't understand using regular fuel on a regular basis in a 12.5 to 1 compression ratio high end motorcycle. Most cars running regular have 8.7 - 9.0 compression. Just goes to prove that the cheapest thing on a BMW motorcycle, is the rider!

Screenshot_20230928_192809_File manager.jpg

 

2019 GS manual says it's allowed and does not call for any reprogramming

 

Says there "may" be a knock,.......if there has been on mine, it's not been heard in the 35k of ownership of the GSA.  As to damage to pistons, maybe, maybe not, but the RT is at 155k and shows no signs of slowing down.  The sky is not and will not fall if you use r'glur fuel and rotella or go 60k on a set of spark plugs or not using LMAR8AI-10 on the 2019 or a myriad of other things that are simply "recommended".

 

 

2019 GSA Manual

image.png.083eb0e47f740119e9c427ca3f7059f1.png

 

06 RT manual

image.png.fcc56ddacae39b3b75adf5f582b30955.png

 

I'm not cheap, I'm frugal:18:

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1 hour ago, Toter said:

No reprogramming because 1250s have knock sensors. I'll spend the $1.50-$2.00 a tank. You do you.


$2.00 a tank time 70 is $140 a year savings, ya, I ride all year, commute 50 one way. 
 

 

My RT is evidence that these bikes can handle, quite well, lower grade fuel

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I always use premium on my bikes if it's recommended. And the problem here is regular is only 86 AKI. What sucks is having to pay a full dollar extra for premium. Not that bad on the bike, but about $18 on the car:classic_angry:.

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FWIW, at our Chevron stations in BC Canada, a 94 Octane is available which is what I use. 

I have tried the 91 as well and while I cannot discern much of a difference in performance, there is a noticeable difference in fuel efficiency. This is owing to the fact that the 94 (Supreme Plus) has no Ethanol and thereby packs a higher energy density. 

Higher costs yes, but if I can afford to buy a BMW, well....you know. 

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Ok I have to eat my words here...I put a request in to Chevron head office re their 94+ gasoline and the response was quite quick thankfully.

The gasoline is no longer "Ethanol free"....all grades and brands in Canada are now mandated to be minimum 10% Ethanol...no point in me buying 94 as I see it, I'll be going back to 91 .

Sorry for any confusion !!

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On 9/29/2023 at 10:39 AM, Rougarou said:


$2.00 a tank time 70 is $140 a year savings, ya, I ride all year, commute 50 one way. 
 

 

My RT is evidence that these bikes can handle, quite well, lower grade fuel

 

Almost 40 cents a day! 

 

These bikes will run and survive on most gas.

If you use really cheap, low octane stuff you risk spark knock (pre-ignition) that can cause engine damage. If you vehicle has a knock sensor, it compensates by retarding ignition timing so power and fuel economy will go down. - How much are you saving now?

In high altitudes or cold temps pre-ignition is less likely.

High octane does burn slower and has a higher flashpoint as said above which makes it less likely to pre-ignite.

Top tier fuels have better additive packages that will help reduce carbon build up (another source of pre-ignition) and keep injectors clean as well.

Personally, I always buy premium for all my vehicles and favor top tier brands if available.

 

 

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The price difference is more like nearly $5-7 a tank, depending on the bike I ride.  $3.25 r'glur and $4.04 premium at 6-7 gallons a fill up (depending on which bike),......well, it kinda adds up.   Do that for a year and you can get your self a set of tires or a new helmet. 

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2 hours ago, Rougarou said:

The price difference is more like nearly $5-7 a tank, depending on the bike I ride.  $3.25 r'glur and $4.04 premium at 6-7 gallons a fill up (depending on which bike),......well, it kinda adds up.   Do that for a year and you can get your self a set of tires or a new helmet. 

Or maybe even a motorcycle designed to burn regular. Probably Japanese! Cheaper bike, cheaper gas, cheaper maintenance. Holy cow, with all those savings over a year, you could buy another bike! Ha Ha!

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40 minutes ago, Toter said:

Or maybe even a motorcycle designed to burn regular. Probably Japanese! Cheaper bike, cheaper gas, cheaper maintenance. Holy cow, with all those savings over a year, you could buy another bike! Ha Ha!

 

I could, but the two bikes I have specifically state from the owners manual, that I can use an alternate fuel, so, as that, these bikes were designed to run on regular fuel.  Had they been designed to specifically/only run on premium, the little note would say "required" vice "recommended" and not have any alternates.

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Any premium fuel vehicle should be able to run on regular, since many times premium is not available (for whatever reason)... but it should be the exception, not the norm. But to each his own:grin:.

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On 9/17/2023 at 6:04 PM, Skywagon said:

SteveYacht... I couldn't tell from your original question which RT you have.  My 2014 manual calls for 89.  I usually buy premium but would have no issue using 89 and I have on many occasions.  I buy ethanol free when I can find it.  Fuel is cheap, engines not so much.

 

BMW has a bit of a reputation for not always recognizing warranty when the owner uses fluids be it fuel, oil, gear, brake fluid...etc it you don't follow the recommendations and document the fluids if you are a DIY'er.  I truly believe there is no way BMW would list 89 as their recommendation if it wasn't adequate for the engine.  They don't want warranty claims based on their recommendations to use certain fluids.

 

I think that was the intent of your original post.  I'm on my 3rd RT.  I've not had any issues caused by fuel or other fluids.  I don't always buy BMW brand, but I stay within their specs.  

 

Which RT are you riding?  Sorry if I missed it.

I have a 2023 that I purchased in early June.

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7 hours ago, JCtx said:

Any premium fuel vehicle should be able to run on regular, since many times premium is not available (for whatever reason)... but it should be the exception, not the norm. But to each his own:grin:.

 

Recommended vs required is the key. 

 

  • “Required” and “Only” mean you need to use it or risk engine damage—which the car’s warranty won’t cover. And yes, the dealer can tell if there’s regular-grade fuel in the tank if your “Premium Fuel Required” engine blows up.
  •  “Recommended” is more a suggestion than a requirement.

“Premium Fuel Recommended.” This means the engine might produce a bit more power and better fuel economy if you use premium (typically only about 5% or less), but it will run just fine on mid-grade or regular. The small power and economy increases come from the engine being able to run greater ignition advance without causing knock.

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8 hours ago, JCtx said:

Any premium fuel vehicle should be able to run on regular, since many times premium is not available (for whatever reason)... but it should be the exception, not the norm. But to each his own:grin:.

Morning   JCtx

 

A  premium fuel requiring vehicle can run on regular, the question is "for how long".  A "premium fuel requiring vehicle" will usually have no problems running on regular at high altitudes as the atmospheric pressure is lower at altitude.  Most newer turbo vehicles do have some sort of knock control so most of those will also do OK on regular fuel at high altitudes (some high altitude areas are typically where premium fuel is not available)

 

If a vehicle doesn't have the ability to retard spark (no knock or ping sensors) or can't be manually reprogrammed to run on lower octane fuel then there is risk of burning holes in pistons or crushing a piston top ring groove, or at the least melting the electrodes off the spark plugs. 

 

Seeing as we are talking BMW motorcycle here the BMW 1200 wethead and 700/800 F bikes come to mind as neither have knock sensors so if a rider travels to a country with only low octane (or worse) fuel available then the fueling computer should be reprogrammed to use lower octane fuel. I have seen a couple older BMW "F" bikes with melted pistons when they were forced to run fully loaded on low octane fuel without the lower octane fueling computer re-programming. 

 

As Rougarou mentioned there IS a difference between "required" & "recommended" as "required" could get expensive if it isn't followed & a rider hammers the motorcycle at higher throttle higher speeds at lower altitudes. 

 

  

 

 

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7 hours ago, dirtrider said:

A "premium fuel requiring vehicle" will usually have no problems running on regular at high altitudes as the atmospheric pressure is lower at altitude. 

You're absolutely correct on that... BUT, you didn't count on the greed of oil companies. Ha ha. I live at altitude (4K'), and regular here is 85 or 86, mid grade (which is regular and premium mixed at the pump) supposedly 88, and premium 90 or 91. So the stupid oil companies already took that 'advantage' away from consumers. So whatever fuel your vehicle requires, that's what you have to purchase at higher elevations too.

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14 minutes ago, JCtx said:

You're absolutely correct on that... BUT, you didn't count on the greed of oil companies. Ha ha. I live at altitude (4K'), and regular here is 85 or 86, mid grade (which is regular and premium mixed at the pump) supposedly 88, and premium 90 or 91. So the stupid oil companies already took that 'advantage' away from consumers. So whatever fuel your vehicle requires, that's what you have to purchase at higher elevations too.

Afternoon  JCtx

 

I count on everything, 

 

In most cases you don't have to use/buy premium if you ride locally, or at a higher elevation. But a lot of higher elevation stations do carry higher octane fuel as some vehicles with artificial boost could still require it. But more importantly a lot of riders/drivers commute to lower elevations so if their vehicle requires it they probably should fill with the higher octane if it is available. 

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