Stick plug came apart WTF

[Hadabadachada]

Went to go do the plugs and valves this morning, pulled the stick coil out on left side, looked funny, noticed it came apart and rubber is stuck.

 

any hints, tips?

guess I’m gonna have to assume I need to buy a new freaking stick coil now, unreal, I have relatively crap lucky

[BABABeemer]

If you can retrieve the rubber maybe you could glue it back on? Worth a try.

[Hadabadachada]

Finally got it out, the rubber is in pieces, the plastic parts in the rubber just broke apart. 
sprayed silicone spray, brake cleaner, used screw drivers, every kind of pick that would barely fit. Eventually got it spinning, and with a couple runs around town to get some super long super skinny pliers, it peeled off, it’s done.

 

I guess I’ll have to search the net or around town for someone who can rebuild it. 
 

I’m gonna take one off the 1100S, seems like it should work, right?

 

Spark plugs are all at their limit, 1.0 or just under.

 

valves are almost all gapped just a bit wide by one or two .01’s couple are in the upper side of the good range

double checked with two gauges. 

 

so looks like it’s gonna be a lot more work than I’d like, coming from an oilhead, lol

 

pay to play.

 

so before anything, I still have to take things apart to get the measurement on the shim and do the math from there correct? 

wish it was cheap enough to just order a few of all of the shims. Make it a one time deal.
because they say to not reuse the c clips right? 

for me to take them apart to get the numbers on the shims, and reuse the c clips to use the bike while I’m waiting for the shims to arrive. I don’t know if that’s a good idea or if it really matters

 

 Since a dealership, who would probably have all the shims, won’t work on a bike more than 10 years old, kinda have to do it myself

 

im just going to record the numbers, replace the plugs and put it all back together, check it again in awhile. 
 

and I guess this is a sign the bike gets pretty damn hot 

 

 

[dirtrider]

 

Quote

and I guess this is a sign the bike gets pretty damn hot 

Afternoon Hadabadachada

 

It's probably more of a sign that the last person that serviced the spark plugs didn't use any silicone spark plug boot grease. 

[Hati]

1 hour ago, Hadabadachada said:

wish it was cheap enough to just order a few of all of the shims

 

There is a chance that you could interchange the shims between locations on your bike to bring the clearances mid-spec. It is a small chance, but chance none the less. Since you need to measure the shims anyway...

[Hadabadachada]

Anyone know a source for the c clips? 
bmw wants almost 3 bucks per! Figure I’ll need 16 to do the job. 

[MikeB60]

Here is a source for coils RM Stator. They are in Canada and the coils are Chineseium. I've had one of their coils in my 1600 for about 5000 so far no issues.  BMW coils suck the Chinese ones cant be any worse and are about half the cost.

[Hadabadachada]

Pretty wacked out honestly, for 12500 miles. 
I don’t think the coils have ever come off the plugs, there was never a 6000 mile check.

 

[beemer chuck]

Euromoto Electric in Denver also carries the stick coils.

I would button the motor up and run a couple of tanks of fuel with Techron fuel system cleaner added, and recheck.

You may have a slight build up on the valve faces and seats that are causing the large clearance.

Extremely unusual to see all the clearances go big.

I have checked 10 or so camhead bike with mileages from 24 to 150k miles and never seen a single valve clearance go big.

[jdub53]

14 hours ago, Hati said:

 

There is a chance that you could interchange the shims between locations on your bike to bring the clearances mid-spec. It is a small chance, but chance none the less. Since you need to measure the shims anyway...

 

Good idea. I was able to do this between two valves on my previous R1200GS-LC when I found three valves out of spec at 24k miles, and then they all remained in spec until I traded it with 74k miles for my RT. 

[Hadabadachada]

12 hours ago, beemer chuck said:

 

I would button the motor up and run a couple of tanks of fuel with Techron fuel system cleaner added, and recheck.

I have this stuff here, maybe this will do the same

 

 

 

 

 

even has enzyme technology 

[Hadabadachada]

I know this was a stuck stick plug post I started, but it changed to a valve job. 
 

 

I ran about 3 tanks of fuel with Techron in it since I last checked the valve gaps. 
 

juat checked again now that I got the securing clips. 
not much change. Those variances could just be an estimate, as my gauge skips every .03

 

got the shim sizes as well, so I guess I need to add the gap to the shim and that should be the new shim that I need ??

 

 

[Hadabadachada]

I tried to do some math with my fingers, and I’m thinking that looks about right?

those smaller number should be the new shim size I’d need?

 

kinda sucks the shims that we can order are only .05 differences.
Tho on the side of the shims really tiny, it has a measurement, and they are pretty specific. 5.000

 

doesnt look like I can do much swapping around 
 

I know I’ve read, mid to loose is usually better, 

so I guess I could just leave a few of them at their limit, I’d feel better getting them more in the mid,

[Hati]

This might help. I didn't need to use it yet so check that the clearances are what you need for your camhead. Should be easy enough to modify it so suit your vintage

 

Shimulator for BMW R1200GS Wethead (LC) K50 series.xlsx

[Hadabadachada]

So I did as much math as I could.

really stinks that they only offer the shims in .05 gaps. I guess the idea is to get the loosest shim that puts the gap in range.

 

I just ordered 5 shims, and think I should be able to swap 3 of them between valves.

 

looks like I should be able to get the intakes between .17 and .20

and the exhausts between .36 and .38 by the numbers I fiddled with

 

seems good enough to me right?

 

check out my maths