Throttle cable replacement

[Hadabadachada]

So my throttle cables are all pretty tight, no slack. Went to balance the TB and there’s just nothing. I even went to the left side to try and adjust just a liiiiittle bit of slack to get something, no luck. 
 

Going to get new cables, but I don’t find anywhere where where it walks though the process. I’m sure someone has done a write up but I haven’t found it.

 

I remember when I did the job on my oilhead, there was work to do to zero the TPS in line with the throttle cable on the left side, then adjusting the right from there.

 

can anyone link me to a tutorial for the job?

 

thanks, I shoulda just let it be till I got some cables, oh well.

[dirtrider]

7 hours ago, Hadabadachada said:

So my throttle cables are all pretty tight, no slack. Went to balance the TB and there’s just nothing. I even went to the left side to try and adjust just a liiiiittle bit of slack to get something, no luck. 
 

Going to get new cables, but I don’t find anywhere where where it walks though the process. I’m sure someone has done a write up but I haven’t found it.

 

I remember when I did the job on my oilhead, there was work to do to zero the TPS in line with the throttle cable on the left side, then adjusting the right from there.

 

can anyone link me to a tutorial for the job?

 

thanks, I shoulda just let it be till I got some cables, oh well.

Morning  Hadabadachada

 

The cables are kind of a pain as the cable splitter box is PITA to get all the cables back in place and  the pullies & spring back in correctly. 

 

Cable routing is just to route the new cables as they are now.  

 

On your tight cables that might be easy, up by the twist grip there should be a rubber boot on the cable. Slide that rubber boot & there should be a main cable adjuster under that boot. You can adjust that to get more cable slack.  

 

Also, make sure the cables are not partially pulled out of the splitter box as that can make them tight.

 

The balance typically doesn't change much on the camhead so if your part throttle balance is off then you might check for cracked throttle body plastic cams. 

 

If you are not holding (locking) the steppers then don't take too long to check the balance after engine starting as they will go independent after running for a while. 

 

You can't change the idle balance so you only have  the above-idle (part throttle) balance that you can change.

[Hadabadachada]

So I have the GS911 to shut off the actuators. 
I do that, balance the throttle bodies, they look nice and even at 2000 ish, but when I hook the steppers back up is when I get the problem.

with a little twitch of the throttle, just a little rev, it’ll rev up to like 3000, and kinda step down to 2000, then step down to idle, weird deal, I’m trying to find where a cable might be getting hung or something, but I don’t get this when I disable the steppers.

I can crack the throttle and idle goes right straight back to 1100.

 

in the clip you see just a little twitch of the throttle and it kinda hovers there for a sec till I drops back to idle. 

 

 

[Hadabadachada]

[Hadabadachada]

I also notice that when I pull the throttle and try to get it to stick at say 3000, it’ll step down.

holding it at 3 and it’ll drop to 2500 or something, something not right here 

[dirtrider]

7 minutes ago, Hadabadachada said:

So I have the GS911 to shut off the actuators. 
I do that, balance the throttle bodies, they look nice and even at 2000 ish, but when I hook the steppers back up is when I get the problem.

with a little twitch of the throttle, just a little rev, it’ll rev up to like 3000, and kinda step down to 2000, then step down to idle, weird deal, I’m trying to find where a cable might be getting hung or something, but I don’t get this when I disable the steppers.

I can crack the throttle and idle goes right straight back to 1100.

 

in the clip you see just a little twitch of the throttle and it kinda hovers there for a sec till I drops back to idle. 

 

 

Morning  Hadabadachada

 

I can't tell a lot from you video, but if it doesn't hang with steppers disconnected then you don't have a problem with the cables it is the stepper operation. 

 

Do keep in mind that the steppers are also throttle followers as they also open as the throttle is opened &  have a slight delay on following the throttle back to closed. This delay is to prevent engine stalling on a snap throttle release.  

[dirtrider]

23 minutes ago, Hadabadachada said:

I also notice that when I pull the throttle and try to get it to stick at say 3000, it’ll step down.

holding it at 3 and it’ll drop to 2500 or something, something not right here 

Morning Hadabadachada

 

Will it also do this with the steppers locked?  The engine electronics give you a dynamic condition so holding a steady RPM in neutral is sometimes difficult.  

[Hadabadachada]

27 minutes ago, dirtrider said:

Morning Hadabadachada

 

Will it also do this with the steppers locked?  The engine electronics give you a dynamic condition so holding a steady RPM in neutral is sometimes difficult.  

No

Throttle response is sharp, revs drop smooth when stepper motors are off while balancing.

when I “finish” and turn the steppers back on and rev it, it kinda sticks, revs don’t drop smoothly.

 

 

[Hadabadachada]

Does the left side throttle adjustment effect the TPS like it does on the oil heads?

I know they say to just adjust from the right.

but since I had to create some slack, both sides have been fiddled with.

[dirtrider]

55 minutes ago, Hadabadachada said:

Does the left side throttle adjustment effect the TPS like it does on the oil heads?

I know they say to just adjust from the right.

but since I had to create some slack, both sides have been fiddled with.

Morning Hadabadachada

 

Not as long as you didn't mess with the base idle screw! 

[dirtrider]

59 minutes ago, Hadabadachada said:

No

Throttle response is sharp, revs drop smooth when stepper motors are off while balancing.

when I “finish” and turn the steppers back on and rev it, it kinda sticks, revs don’t drop smoothly.

 

 

Morning Hadabadachada

 

Then the steppers are probably just doing what they do & not allowing it to abruptly return to curb idle. If the engine slows down too quickly with a closed throttle it can stall.  Plus a slightly slower RPM drop makes shifting less abrupt.

 

See if you notice that slower throttle return when riding the motorcycle.   

[Hadabadachada]

Okay cool, didn’t even know there were additional idle screws, will never mess with them.

 

I rode it to work this morning, and it seemed to kinda smooth out. Blips of the throttle kinda went back close to “normal” or what I’m used to. I just never noticed that slow “return” to idle. 

I’m assuming there’s some “computer learning” in the stepper operation? As in when I adjust the cables, maybe the computer is relearning the idle ? I dunno. I clicked calibrate a number of times through the process. 
 

I was thinking, do those stepper motors/actuators get dirty or fouled? Any way to clean them? 
 

Maybe I just go into everything and try to spray clean, wipe down, lube the cables. 

 

[dirtrider]

10 minutes ago, Hadabadachada said:

Okay cool, didn’t even know there were additional idle screws, will never mess with them.

 

I rode it to work this morning, and it seemed to kinda smooth out. Blips of the throttle kinda went back close to “normal” or what I’m used to. I just never noticed that slow “return” to idle. 

I’m assuming there’s some “computer learning” in the stepper operation? As in when I adjust the cables, maybe the computer is relearning the idle ? I dunno. I clicked calibrate a number of times through the process. 
 

I was thinking, do those stepper motors/actuators get dirty or fouled? Any way to clean them? 
 

Maybe I just go into everything and try to spray clean, wipe down, lube the cables. 

 

Morning Hadabadachada

 

The stepper idle control has short term learn (per ride session) but that goes away at key-off.  

 

You c-a-n clean the stepper pintle threads but that requires running the pintles out, & THAT is dangerous, IF a pintle screws all the way out (only takes a nano second to happen) you will play hell getting them back in.

 

Plus if you clean the threads you will need to re-lube with a proper grease, if that isn't used they will be very slow to react in cold weather. 

 

Personally I wouldn't mess with them if they are working & not getting lost.

[Hadabadachada]

Heck yeah. 
what’s your cash app? You deserve tips. For your time and knowledge.

[Hadabadachada]

Took my balancing rig to work and messed with it awhile. A couple on and offs, since the dang thing gets HOT! 
I think I was able to get a bit of slack out of the handlebar and into the throttle bodies like you said. 
got it pretty close to balance at about 2800ish RPM. 
didn’t feel like that slow drop to idle stuck around after a ride to work. I guess it’s a learning thing after a calibration. 

thanks for the info. 
 

I think I’m good until I get my spark plugs.

I didn’t realize they say to check the valves every 6000 miles. And I’m almost at 13 without having my first checkup. I’m interested to see what they say. 

ill again be checking the balance after that as they recommend.

 

well, maybe not since I won’t make any adjustments. Hopefully I don’t have to. Will balance again if I have to adjust.