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Which tires do you like the best for SPORT-touring on your 1250?


JCtx

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On 10/2/2023 at 9:19 PM, JCtx said:

 

I bought a set and they were shipped and delivered from Idaho in just a couple of days.  The codes say they were made in week 28 of 2021.  I am thrilled to have them at about $100 less than most other tire retailers recently. 

 

I have an extra set of rims, and I manage my tire wear by swapping partly-used sets on and off depending on the expected duration of my next trip.  I had a set of Bridgestone T31's with about 2000 miles of wear remaining, and I recently used up most of that on a short trip.  So, these new Dunlops are going on those rims.   Now I need to gather my energy for the battle to dismount that last set of Bridgestone T31 GT's.  :)

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I like the Michelin Road 6 GT on the rear and a regular Road 6 on the front of a K1300S.  I know, it not the same bike as yours.  It's longer, lower, sleeker, sexier, more beautiful, more powerful, and much faster, but I do understand about battling those 'stone GT's.

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So early July '21. Okay, thank you for that info, brother; greatly appreciated. And yes, if you tour often, having 2 sets of wheels/tires is a great idea, to maximize tire life. Mine could have maybe 1K left tops, but they're more worn out on the sides, and both front and rear, than at the center, which is the first time that happens to me. But that's what happens in the TX Hill Country, with its ultra abrasive asphalt. At any rate, my current Z8 set is 50/18, so basically 5 years old, so whether I make it to one more time mountain run or not, they'll be out during the winter. And I could tell they were a bit squirrely on my last trip, so if I make it to Cloudcroft, I'd take it easier there, since the asphalt is a lot smoother, especially from SunSpot to Timberon. I can always see DTC intervention there.

 

What I'll do is call all other tire suppliers I can find, and if somebody can tell me they have newer RS4s, even at full price, I'd buy them there. I called Revzilla, to see if they could tell me that info, or at least assure me the tires weren't older than 2 years, and they said no. So right now between that guy and Revzilla, I'd probably go with that guy too. But prefer fresher tires, since they might last me several years, and I don't want to throw good rubber away due to age, rather than being worn out. Otherwise, I wouldn't care. I'll make that decision this week. Thanks again for your help.

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8 minutes ago, Lowndes said:

I like the Michelin Road 6 GT on the rear and a regular Road 6 on the front of a K1300S.

May I ask why a GT on your bike, especially if you ride solo? Just curious. It's supposed to handle worse than the regular version, but needed on heavier sport-touring bikes, especially when ridden 2-up, for better longevity. I always change tires in pairs, and always ride solo, so for me, I always use the regular version, including on my ex-2009 K1300S, like yours.

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Well, of course I didn't mention that that my bike is also heavier than yours, 512 lb dry I think, plus me (225 suited up) and two side cases with 20-30 lbs of junk, tools, rain gear, water, oil, etc.  But, I'm solo, too.  Anyway, i found that on my K1200RS (you may remember "The Flying Brick" - even heavier than the K13) the GT tires felt much firmer and surer (if that's a word) than the regular Road series, and I just continued on this bike.  And I like 'em.  

 

To continue a little: As i understand it, the main difference is that the GT is built for heavier bikes with heavier/thicker sidewalls, mainly.  As far as handling I've always found stiffer is better with suspension when comparing handling for "sport touring".  Maybe not as comfortable, but much better feel and feedback with stiffer.  I'm NO authority on any of this or anything else, please remember.

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Hey, I also owned a 2002 K1200RS brick, so an R1250R might be in your future. Ha ha. And yes, it was a heavy beast at 628 lbs without bags. The K1300S was 569, and my R is 527. I'm only 160#, so for me (no luggage; just a small tail bag) a hard GT tire is way too stiff. You want a little compliance from the tires, and non-GT tires at 36/40 psi give me just that. Plus they're lighter, so they also feel and handle better, due to less unsprung weight. And yes, the difference is minor, but when pushing a relatively heavy bike hard, everything helps:). By the way, you'd be perfectly fine with the regular Road6s riding solo (although at 36/42, in your case), but there's nothing wrong using GT tires if you like them better.  But it was a good idea to leave the front one non-GT, which is the most important one. Without pushing the bike hard, like I do, it'd make little to no difference.

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Just called the only local CycleGear (owned by Revzilla), and they have the RS4s in stock, with DOT codes 1423 R (April '23), and 1823 F (May '23), so it doesn't get much better than that. So will pay the $80+ more ($447 vs $365) than the eBay guy, to basically get 2-year fresher tires. Looking forward to give them a try in the mountains, but doubt it'll be before next year. We'll see.

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For what it’s worth, the last two sets of Roadsmart 4s I bought had build dates of 2721. Makes little difference to me since I usually run through 4+ sets of tires in a season.

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39 minutes ago, Rockosmith said:

....I usually run through 4+ sets of tires in a season.

 

Wow, that's the kind of rider I want to be when I grow up!!!

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Four sets in a season? You're crazy. Ha ha. I'm at the opposite side of that spectrum. I might go 3 to 4 riding seasons on those tires (if they last that long), so need them fresh, to avoid having to throw them away due to age. But of course I'll try to finish them off sooner than that:classic_biggrin:.

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Some of ya'll sound like high school girls that have to have the latest and most up to date fashion stuff or the newest iphone (remember next year will be new latest and greatest that you will need to replace).  Me, I buy the old fashion stuff, cuz it's cheaper.  A set of Pilot Road 2's ran me $244 last year and Pirelli's ran me $219 from ebay (Angel STs), the GSA has some Continental's.....if they were the best/near best when in their prime, they're still good enough currently.  I scrape the pegs on both bikes and haven't slipped one out yet.  In a couple of years, those tires you all are paying $400+ for will be sold at half/more than half off and still in production.   I also run through four sets, but not a season, it's a year since I ride all year, so, I'ma save where I can.

 

Also,.....as I've stated in some other thread,......ya'll over, waaaaay over analyze the simplest of things.

 

Buy your own set of tires, cuz what you like/feel ain'ta gonna be what someone else likes and feels......sheesh, if you dig deep enough, somebody's gonna pimp some Shinko's or Kendas up in here.   Run 'em to the threads and be happy,.......anyone got some rotella to sell:grin::grin:

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2 hours ago, syntorz said:

 

Wow, that's the kind of rider I want to be when I grow up!!!

When stuff like this happens on a 500 mile tire it sure runs up the tire cost per mile.

88D3E9A7-7135-40F9-A9C1-BE106F145E48.thumb.jpeg.91bffeaacaba1141bce19ea44b62f629.jpeg

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9 hours ago, Rockosmith said:

When stuff like this happens on a 500 mile tire it sure runs up the tire cost per mile.

88D3E9A7-7135-40F9-A9C1-BE106F145E48.thumb.jpeg.91bffeaacaba1141bce19ea44b62f629.jpeg

 

You're gonna need a bigger plug

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1 minute ago, Rougarou said:

 

You're gonna need a bigger plug

I got it plugged enough to get the last 35 miles home but it lost 8 psi overnight. Afraid to run it with that much damage so off it came.

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On 10/2/2023 at 10:19 PM, JCtx said:

Hey gang, has anybody here bought from this guy on eBay? https://www.ebay.com/itm/115724373260?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=21562-222008-2056-1&mkcid=2&itemid=115724373260&targetid=296227501805&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9030616&poi=9142636&campaignid=19868683663&mkgroupid=145907810526&rlsatarget=pla-296227501805&abcId=&merchantid=6296724&shqty=1&isGTR=1#shId These RoadSmart4 tires are $365 shipped. Already asked the seller for the DOT codes, to make sure they're relatively fresh. They're 80 bucks cheaper than Revzilla, which is a lot. Thank you.

 

EDIT: The eBay guy replied with only 'I sometimes drop ship'. I replied back saying he didn't answer the question at all. To either tell me who he drop-ships from, to call and check for DOT codes. Or just give me the codes if he has physical possession of the tires. Otherwise, will order them from Revzilla. I'm done taking chances to buy something cheaper. If I know the tires are just as fresh, then yes. Otherwise, no thanks.

I ordered a set of RS IV tires and only the Rear showed up- I think a drop shipper mistake so messaged the ebayer to correct that.

 

But, the Rear tire I got has a 2324 date code so pretty good and I have some RS IIIs from JP Cycles that were a 22 date code so this was better.

 

I'll update if the missing front isn't resolved but he has a good rating so I'm sure he'll get that corrected.

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57 minutes ago, Mellow said:

But, the Rear tire I got has a 2324 date code

2423 code? Pretty fresh if so.

2324 code? So fresh you're still waiting on it for another year...

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Just now, Hosstage said:

2423 code? Pretty fresh if so.

2324 code? So fresh you're still waiting on it for another year...

OOps... lol 2423... HA!!!

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On 10/12/2023 at 6:10 PM, Rougarou said:

 it's a year since I ride all year, so, I'ma save where I can.

Hey, if you want to be a cheap skate, and roll the dice with old tires, be my guest:classic_biggrin:. But to me, even my cancerous body is worth more than 200 bucks, so I'll buy fresh tires. But to each is own, of course.

 

16 hours ago, Rockosmith said:

I got it plugged enough to get the last 35 miles home but it lost 8 psi overnight. Afraid to run it with that much damage so off it came.

I'd have replaced it too; looks like a massive hole. I'm very careful where I tread, and since my first and only flat a long time ago, it hasn't happened again (thankfully)... and hope it stays that way. Ha ha.

 

9 hours ago, Mellow said:

I ordered a set of RS IV tires and only the Rear showed up- I think a drop shipper mistake so messaged the ebayer to correct that.  But, the rear tire I got has a 2423 date code, so pretty good.

Yeah, that's as new as it can get indeed. But the other guy got a 2018 tire, so not sure what's going on. Due to no online seller confirming DOT codes, will physically buy the tires from CycleGear, to guarantee they'll be fresh. I went to the mountains today, to finish off my Z8 tires, and won't use the bike again until next year, so no rush to buy the tires yet. It was colder today in Cloudcroft, and the tires felt even more squirrely than last Friday at Gila, so didn't push the bike too hard. But still had a lot of fun; it was a nice day up there (53-62F). Tires are almost 5 years old, and the front is at the wear bars on the sides, and both almost at the wear bars in the middle, so they're done at 3,300 miles.

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6 hours ago, JCtx said:

Hey, if you want to be a cheap skate, and roll the dice with old tires, be my guest:classic_biggrin:. But to me, even my cancerous body is worth more than 200 bucks, so I'll buy fresh tires. But to each is own, of course.

 

Price does not equate to best quality and as long as the tires are within their warranty and decently stored, they're fine.   Newer doesn't mean better and as you've stated it takes some years for you to go through tires so in essence you will be riding "nonfresh" tires at some point, unless you replace tires annually without seeing the threads, but to each their own you money spend how it makes you "feel" comfortable

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On 10/12/2023 at 6:10 PM, Rougarou said:

Some of ya'll sound like high school girls that have to have the latest ..., I buy the old fashion stuff, cuz it's cheaper.  A set of Pilot Road 2's ...(Angel STs),...some Continental's.....

 

That makes sense for you and your riding profile.  I think if you ride mostly local and short trips, and you can change the tires yourself, then using cheaper older models of tires is a workable strategy.  I have a friend who is VERY frugal, which is the kindest way I can phrase it, and he hunts for tire bargains and runs them until they start to show cords.  And the problem with that approach was revealed on our latest long trip together  -- he was running an old Pirelli up front when we started the trip, and he thought it had plenty of tread remaining for our planned route.  But that old model tire had an increasing rate of wear as we progressed.  So, halfway out, at our furthest distance from home, on a Sunday morning, he takes a look at his front tire and sees cord emerging in a spot. 

 

We end up limping home as a group to conserve his tires, which somewhat spoils the trip for the rest of the group.  And by the time he got home, he had cord showing all the way around the tire.  Yikes. 

 

My point is that there are good reasons that some of us may choose to keep fresher tires on our bikes.  I like to start long trips with new tires, because I want to maximize the likelihood of enjoying my precious free time.  I usually get only one chance each year to get all my buddies together for a long trip, and I don't want to mess that up by being THAT GUY.  Also, for those who do not mount their own tires, the cost and hassle of having them mounted for you is enough to provide an incentive to install the latest and longest-treadlife version of your favorite brand. 

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I think @TEWKSis the only witness to the tires I ride for a “long” ride. 
 

unfortunate that your friend was not situationally aware of his tires and life left, I kinda am. 
 

point being, that a current year tire does not mean that it will run better/last any longer than a two or three year old tire

 

I don’t exactly baby these things and do get leaned over for my fun rides even those daily commutes involve some twisty fun at an hour each way

 

 

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4 hours ago, Rougarou said:

 

Price does not equate to best quality and as long as the tires are within their warranty and decently stored, they're fine.

And who said price equates quality? Not me. I said only buying from CycleGear guarantees fresh tires, because they're the only ones willing to go look at them, and tell me in advance what the DOT codes are. And rubber deteriorates with age, no matter how you store it. But yes, stored properly it lasts longer. The problem is you never know how they were stored. And you were the one insulting people looking out for their safety as 'high school girls'. If you like to gamble with yours, that'd be perfectly fine. But don't insult others who take safety seriously. And again, I don't ride much, and at full lean angles when I do (zero chicken strips on my tires), so it's very important to me to get the best AND freshest rubber possible. If I was wearing out a set in a season, then I wouldn't be paying nearly the attention to freshness I do now.

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30 minutes ago, Rougarou said:

I think @TEWKSis the only witness to the tires I ride for a “long” ride


Could have played a country tune by strumming the cords that were showing. :spittake:

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24 minutes ago, JCtx said:

And who said price equates quality? Not me. I said only buying from CycleGear guarantees fresh tires, because they're the only ones willing to go look at them, and tell me in advance what the DOT codes are. And rubber deteriorates with age, no matter how you store it. But yes, stored properly it lasts longer. The problem is you never know how they were stored. And you were the one insulting people looking out for their safety as 'high school girls'. If you like to gamble with yours, that'd be perfectly fine. But don't insult others who take safety seriously. And again, I don't ride much, and at full lean angles when I do (zero chicken strips on my tires), so it's very important to me to get the best AND freshest rubber possible. If I was wearing out a set in a season, then I wouldn't be paying nearly the attention to freshness I do now.


Throw a rock at a pack of dogs and one will yelp,… if you felt insulted thats on you

 

Buy what you wanna buy, no guarantees that even cyclegear stores in climate controlled area, after all, they are a business out to make money. It takes you 3-4 years/seasons to change your at that time 3-4 year old tires. It takes me less than six months to do that with less than two year old tires. 
 

Fresh tires can have anomalies in them so theres that too

 

enjoy

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6 hours ago, Rougarou said:


Throw a rock at a pack of dogs and one will yelp,… if you felt insulted thats on you

Really? I never feel insulted by any comments regarding my ethnicity, race, or anything else, especially when true. But they you throw your 'funny' insult, then pretend using old tires is safe? So if not an insult, then just being a d*ck? Either way, not worth arguing with you any more (we're not going to get along), so ignored. And already decided on which tires, so I'm out of here. Thread served its purpose, and went down the toilet now.

 

By the way, even if not properly stored, nothing is going to happen to tires only a few months old... and THAT is exactly my point. And who the hell even mentioned defective tires? We're only discussing rubber aging here. Geez. And if less than a year old, by the time I wear them out in 3 to 4 years, they won't be 5 years old, which is my age limit the way I ride, which is harder than most, so my skin/life literally depends on my tires.

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1 hour ago, JCtx said:

Really? I never feel insulted by any comments regarding my ethnicity, race, or anything else, especially when true. But they you throw your 'funny' insult,

 

Ok, how ever you see it

 

Most on this board think of it as a campfire type community, sorry for not being prim and proper in how I respond. 

 

 

1 hour ago, JCtx said:

 

then pretend using old tires is safe?

 

Three year old tires ARE safe as day old tires, but you believe what you desire. 

 

1 hour ago, JCtx said:

 

So if not an insult, then just being a d*ck? Either way, not worth arguing with you any more (we're not going to get along), so ignored.

 

See campfire community comment above. 

1 hour ago, JCtx said:

And already decided on which tires, so I'm out of here. Thread served its purpose, and went down the toilet now.

 

By the way, even if not properly stored, nothing is going to happen to tires only a few months old... and THAT is exactly my point. And who the hell even mentioned defective tires? We're only discussing rubber aging here. Geez. And if less than a year old, by the time I wear them out in 3 to 4 years, they won't be 5 years old, which is my age limit the way I ride, which is harder than most, so my skin/life literally depends on my tires.

 

Most on this board ride hard (read around some) and wear out tires waaaaay quicker than 3-4 years. Sooo, if you are replace  your four year old tires and I just bought those unsafe 3 year old tires ill still rep!ace them before they hit your limit,soooo which is safer in your mind,....nevermind, your four year old tires would be safer than my three year old tires, cuz you bought them newer right......make it make sense

 

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Ive never met Roug....I've never seen his bike....but  I'm pretty sure he gets among the best $$ per mile whether it be bike, riding gear, gasoline, etc.  From my virtual interactions through BMWST and the amount of miles he does weekly.....I take his recommendations under strong consideration.  Now on another note....he will ride in crazy hot weather/humidity which I totally ignore his view on that :19:  If he recommends a place to eat, I would highly recommend you go with it.  Not many Cajuns get that wrong.

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From the 'LT' forum, owner reports the following mileages of the RoadTec vs a couple sets of Roadsmart IV's (mileages listed on the right,)

(Promising, as I can't see more than 6,000 out of my Pilot 6 GT's currently on the bike,)

 

Information from my 2022 R1250RT - Just installed a new pair of the Dunlop RSIV.

Tires - Mileage When Installed, Brand, Model, (Mileage When Removed), Cost (Tires, M&B)

0000 miles - Metzeler Roadtec Z8 (5576)
5576 miles - Dunlop Roadsmart IV (8261)
13837 miles - Dunlop Roadsmart IV (10901)
24738 miles - Dunlop Roadsmart IV (TBD)

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Dunlop returned my call today from Monday, where I inquired about the availability of 'GT' Roadsmart 4's vs the 'SP' line, allegedly designed for lighter bikes.

(I'd read the reviews. but no sellers knew what I was talking about (GT vs SP))

 

It turns out that Dunlop doesn't distribute the GT's in the states, but only in Europe. So any RS 4 sold here is an SP.

Regardless, he assured me that the current SP should deliver 8,000 to 10,000 miles for the rear on my RT as lighter bikes report getting closer to 15,000. (???)

 

If true, that beats heck out of the 6,000 rear, 9,000 front I've been getting now on 2 sets of Pilot 6 GT's. I'll try a set next time around, but I'll look to see what a tire from Europe might set me back (probably won't work out.)

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1 hour ago, Stiggy said:

...he assured me that the current SP should deliver 8,000 to 10,000 miles for the rear on my RT ...

 

Yeah.  No. 

 

 

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1 hour ago, Cap said:

 

Yeah.  No. 

 

 

Fortunately, we won't have to find out ( on the SP.)

Tyre Pro, Greece sold me a 180/55-17 IV GT (Fingers crossed?)

(Included $39.90 shipping.)

 

Order total: $293.70
 
Shipping to:
 
 Oxford, NC 27565-8280, United States
Order number: *********
Dunlop Roadsmart IV GT Rear  180/55ZR17 73W 636518
Dunlop Roadsmart IV GT Rear 180/55ZR17 73W 636518
You should get it by Nov 8.
 
 
 
 
 
Dunlop Roadsmart IV GT Rear  180/55ZR17 73W 636518
 
 
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2 hours ago, Cap said:

 

Yeah.  No. 

 

 

Do you have concrete proof it will not last? Or is that your conclusion given the difference between SP and GT designation?

 

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5 hours ago, Etienne Lau said:

Do you have concrete proof it will not last? Or is that your conclusion given the difference between SP and GT designation?


I have personal experience with multiple sets of them.  And I have replaced sets that were mounted on other heavy touring bikes owned by my friends.  The results for me and my buddies are fairly consistent— between 4500 and 6000 miles on the rear.  
 

I posted about this earlier.  I documented the initial tread depth, and current tread depth after 2500 miles.  At 2500 miles, about one-third of the initial tread is gone.  Optimists among us might conclude that the tire will have another 5000 miles of wear remaining.  In my experience, the tire wears more rapidly towards then end, and the result is that after 5000 miles they are approaching end of service.  
 

I suppose if one’s ride profile was short daily trips to work, then one could leave the tire in place and extract the last bit of life before replacing it.  In my case, where most of my riding is longer distances, I would not start a 1000-mile trip on a rear Dunlop RS4 having 5000 miles on it.

 

And I don’t expect that the GT version will do much better.  And certainly for $300 per tire, I would not bother trying.  I like the RS4, and I am content with the way it performs and the tread life I get.

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Good post Cap....

 

With the Pilot 6 GT's as a base line (6,000 miles and $285 each,) I'll be sure to let you guys know how this RS 4 GT ($293.00) works out. I really don't concern myself about tire cost (+/- $100, and I change my own tires as well,) but I hope to find a tire that gives me 10,000 on the rear, as changing tires is not up there on my favorite things to do.

I do one or two trips per year, the rest is commuting on some wonderful aggressive, twisty country back roads between here and the office that does wear tires down (as even the Metzelers on my Harley have demonstrated.)

 

(Assuming it all doesn't blow up running that Ultra One Plus oil .... (cross thread points?):))

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That was 11 minutes well spent, thanks 9Mary7!  I thought I knew about 90% of it beforehand. This just confirms everything for me,

(Now if I could only get one lousy year out of a set of tires :grin:)

 

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12 hours ago, 9Mary7 said:

I've posted this before......but for the newer members y'all should watch these worthwhile 11 minutes.

 

 

 

Thank, now I can really go cheep and get 8-9 year old tires that are equally as safe as day old tires.......hadn't seen this before but confirms my point with "older" tires being just as good as new tires.

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4 hours ago, Rougarou said:

 

 

Thank, now I can really go cheep and get 8-9 year old tires that are equally as safe as day old tires.......hadn't seen this before but confirms my point with "older" tires being just as good as new tires.

Having ridden many laps on that very same track they used (mostly coaching), that is the best testament to the quality of what is available today. YMMV:revit:

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  • 2 weeks later...

Just my quick input.....on my 4th set of Dunlop RS4 tires.  Best "bang for the buck" out there!  Meaning that they perform as advertised  Getting to be less of a deal.... Dunlop is charging more now that they're staring to sell.

I've 32K on a 16R-1200 RS on the RS4 since about 11k, won't put anything else on.  The lowest mileage I've gotten was approx. 7.5k after a hard ride in Cal.  The front went 1st from heavy trail braking.  I've convinced an RT and an FJR driver to switch, they are both sold!  The tires are great!  Try them, you will also be glad you did!

Note:  The tire is very responsive, ready to tip in and hold a solid, responsive line,  not be confused with nervous, so don't be judgmental.  Ride two or three days and all should be good.  If you can ride the Z8 oem tire and get comfortable, you have a very pleasant surprise to look forward to.

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My RS4 (GT) arrived from Greece on Monday. ($235 + $40 shipping + $20 tax,) I've got about 2,000 miles left on the Pilot 6 (GT) currently on the bike.

Let's compare notes next year as to whether the "GT" makes any difference in mileage vs the regular RS4.

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12 hours ago, Stiggy said:

My RS4 (GT) arrived from Greece on Monday. ($235 + $40 shipping + $20 tax,) I've got about 2,000 miles left on the Pilot 6 (GT) currently on the bike.

Let's compare notes next year as to whether the "GT" makes any difference in mileage vs the regular RS4.

You should also compare the weight of the different versions of tires. 

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7 hours ago, Bernie said:

You should also compare the weight of the different versions of tires. 

Good idea Bernie. If someone can report the weight of a standard RS4 and I’ll post the weight of my GT this evening.

Dave

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180/55-17 RS4-GT weighs just under 14 lbs. (13.84 ish)

 

Anybody have a new RS4 'standard' weight available?

 

IMG_5417.jpg.75f410e622ed2546668df3b3cc7c2e3f.jpgIMG_5418.jpg.1013a1de4c1b63615f11fe313fc8b844.jpgIMG_5419.jpg.64c0cb6c64e9de7bd497704457ae2186.jpg)

 

Anybody have a new RS4 'standard' weight available?

 

 

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Stiggy,

 

Sorry for the delay, but I didn't trust my bathroom scale as the weight that I came up with was 17-lbs?

This is the "standard" RS4 that I was weighing.

So to provide an accurate weight, I grabbed the tire and headed over to the local UPS store and had them give me the accurate weight of .......17-lbs.

 

I don't know what to say?

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On this topic I just used Cycle Gear for a set of Michelin Road 6 it cost me $597 mounted and front balanced. Rear one they could not balance as they only do doouble swingarm and front tires.................. TPMS they would do I think but not replace. 

This was for a 2007 RT

I did not even look at other ones and here I learned about the 6GT. Will have to study some more for my 2021 RT and nowadays I'm so far from mountains that it leads to a lot of chicken strips on the tires, unless I trailer the bike north from South FLorida. 

 

Learned a lot from this thread thanks to all contributors.

 

H

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1 hour ago, bimmers said:

... Rear one they could not balance as they only do doouble swingarm ...

 

They must not have a BMW wheel adapter.  I use this one from Marc Parnes.  You can still balance the wheel yourself in a few minutes.  I bought a package of stick-on weights from Amazon, which is a multi-generational lifetime supply.  With the Marc Parnes balancing kit, and a set of jack stands, you have all you need.

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Cap,

interesting, which adapter do you use or is suitable for the 1250RT? Would it be all late K1200  and R models? 

 

I think I will spring for one when I can be sure of the adapter type.
 

Thanks

 

H

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22 hours ago, bimmers said:

....which adapter do you use or is suitable for the 1250RT? ...

 

It is the BG12 kit.  Click on the link, and it takes you to an order page.  And on the order page for BG12 kits, there is a note that tells you to specify your year and model.  The same adapter for my 2017 R1200RT also fits my 2019 R1250RT.  In any case, he will send you the correct one for your bike.

 

Here is the link to the wheel weights I bought from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DG376VV

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