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any one use a PC-8 from eastern beaver


randy

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I need a new power block.  I am looking at the easternbeaver PC-8.

Not sure I understand the wiring diagram.  It says to run TWO power wires from the battery, AND run a trigger wire (from a relay) to one of the PC-8 power connectors.

That makes NO sense to me.  It should be a Bike trigger wire  (i.e. tail light etc.) to one post and the battery wire to the other post, then battery ground to PC-8 ground post.

 

If anyone has experience with a PC-8  PM please, thanks

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John Ranalletta
57 minutes ago, randy said:

I need a new power block.  I am looking at the easternbeaver PC-8.

Not sure I understand the wiring diagram.  It says to run TWO power wires from the battery, AND run a trigger wire (from a relay) to one of the PC-8 power connectors.

That makes NO sense to me.  It should be a Bike trigger wire  (i.e. tail light etc.) to one post and the battery wire to the other post, then battery ground to PC-8 ground post.

 

If anyone has experience with a PC-8  PM please, thanks

Randy,

 

The RT I bought from @DBULL has a Fuzeblock installed.  I like the fact that it supports switched and unswitched circuits that might eliminate bolting wires to the battery terminals.

 

https://www.fuzeblocks.com/

 

image.thumb.png.3c1f8d3234f4f2c3784e1c4e00471145.png

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10 minutes ago, randy said:

Not sure I understand the wiring diagram.  It says to run TWO power wires from the battery, AND run a trigger wire (from a relay) to one of the PC-8 power connectors.

 

Looks like the power post labeled "BAT" is for the 2nd line which skips the relay and provides unswitched power to the last two fuses ... although on a standard bosch 5 pin relay I'd just use pin 87a rather than run a second line from the battery.

 

Screen Shot 2023-09-03 at 11.26.27 AM.png

 

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The fuses in that diagram are over sized for the wires they are supposed to protect. The capacity of 12 gauge wire is to 20 amps, the limit for 14 gauge is 15 amps.  I'd use both if you might be using all the circuits at one time.  And bump up the ground wire size, or ground some accessories to the frame.

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I used the PC-8 on my Suzuki DL650, mostly because they offer a pre-configured kit with connectors for the OEM wiring harness.  As mentioned already, yes, the two power leads are for switched and unswitched .  With respect to the total amperage and proper fusing, mine came with lots of extra fuses and you can choose the size independently for the switched and I unswitched lines by installing main fuses inline with the supply leads.  And of course you also choose the fuse for each circuit that you connect.

 

Depending on how many accessory circuits you have, this might be more complex than it’s worth.  I am not sure I would buy another one.  But it works fine, and is well made.

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yes I missed it in the wiring diagram.  but I see how it works now.  Original I liked the PC-8 because it had 8 connectors, the FZ-1 only has six, and the PC-8 is 30.00 cheaper.  but I do not want to do the whole relay thing.  So just get a FZ-1 again. 

I have
moto ligts

running lights

GPS

Voltmeter/usb 
gerbing connector

after market horn

so I am right at six.

 

and I have never added a 7th so maybe just stick with the FZ-1.

 

my prior FZ-1 lasted two bikes and about 6 years, so no complaints.

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ok I missed this, Eastern Beaver has a switched (no relay needed model)  PC-8R, the switching capability is built into the board itself.
PC-8R_Combo_650.jpg

so now it becomes more interesting.

I am leaning towards trying the PC-8R.  my only complaint, the original PC-8 has ring terminals for the power/ground connectors (which I really like) this PC-8R has gone to the FZ-1 screw type connectors which I do not like.

seems the PC-8R is somewhat new, does anyone have experience with the PC-8R?

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8 hours ago, John Ranalletta said:

Randy,

 

The RT I bought from @DBULL has a Fuzeblock installed.  I like the fact that it supports switched and unswitched circuits that might eliminate bolting wires to the battery terminals.

 

https://www.fuzeblocks.com/

 

image.thumb.png.3c1f8d3234f4f2c3784e1c4e00471145.png

 

Yes I currently have a FZ-1.  Been using it for 6-7 years, on my last two bikes.  It has finally gone bad, and that is why I am looking at my options.
my only complaint regarding the FZ-1 is, the power/switched/ground connectors are so close, and they are screw type connections, not the ring type like on the PC-8.

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8 hours ago, randy said:

 does anyone have experience with the PC-8R?

 

That's the one I installed on my Suzuki.  If you want testimonials, you might look at some different sites -- I learned about the Eastern Beaver stuff on StromTrooper.  I think their primary market is for lower-priced bikes that get lots of farkles, rather than BMWs that come with a lot of upgrades as standard equipment.

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3 hours ago, Cap said:

 

That's the one I installed on my Suzuki.  If you want testimonials, you might look at some different sites -- I learned about the Eastern Beaver stuff on StromTrooper.  I think their primary market is for lower-priced bikes that get lots of farkles, rather than BMWs that come with a lot of upgrades as standard equipment.


ok so I thought you had installed a PC-8 Not the PC-8R

thank you

PC-8R will be ordered  

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5 hours ago, Lowndes said:

So what's wrong with the screw type, if I may ask??


Just  based upon my limited 30 years experience, for the battery power/ground, I like the ring/nut connection VS the screw connection.  For all other connections the screw type is fine.  Again just my 0.02

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so one item, I wish auxiliary fuze boxes had a standard.  the FZ-1 has positive connectors on left side and negative on right side, the PC-8R is exact opposite.  so basically, I will have excess ground wire and not long enough positive wires.  and IF I flip the orientation, the wires from the battery will be opposite routing.  IT is always something.

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8 hours ago, randy said:

so one item, I wish auxiliary fuze boxes had a standard.  the FZ-1 has positive connectors on left side and negative on right side, the PC-8R is exact opposite.  so basically, I will have excess ground wire and not long enough positive wires.  and IF I flip the orientation, the wires from the battery will be opposite routing.  IT is always something.

Just flip the bike over - no problem!

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not sure how I missed this, but Eastern Beaver is a China company.  My item was ordered 9/4 shipped from China on 9/8 and still no ETA.  To be honest if I had seen this, I would have bought a FZ-1 again.  

I really wanted it to arrive this week so I could install it and be tested prior to Sparta.

I am really worried it will come in next Monday and I will be time constrained.

or worse it will not even make it before FART.

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20 hours ago, randy said:

not sure how I missed this, but Eastern Beaver is a China company.  My item was ordered 9/4 shipped from China on 9/8 and still no ETA.  To be honest if I had seen this, I would have bought a FZ-1 again.  

I really wanted it to arrive this week so I could install it and be tested prior to Sparta.

I am really worried it will come in next Monday and I will be time constrained.

or worse it will not even make it before FART.

My understanding is that EB is a very small company built by an ex-pat Brit........ not exactly your typical Chinese company.

You can also call him...

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Eastern Beaver gets lots of good reviews, so no worries there.  this was just a case of needing the product quickly.  Time was more of an issue than the product itself.  If this was a typical winter project I would not be concerned.

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Jim is in Japan - in the past all items I have ordered have been shipped from there, and all have arrived quickly. @randy are you sure your package started in China? 

 

If so, maybe he has outsourced production there...

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so far, my only complaint is the same with all auxiliary designs, NO WAY 14-gauge wire fits into the screw type connectors.  The screw type connectors are fine/great for the standard 16-18 gauge wire used for our Farkles, but the initial battery to fuze box is always 14-gauge wire and it is too big/thick for inserting into the screw opening.

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PC-8R installed, tested and working perfectly.  As noted above, other than trying to get a 14 gauge wire into a 16 gauge hole, it worked very well.  Unless something happens that I cannot foresee, I give it an A+

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17 hours ago, randy said:

so far, my only complaint is the same with all auxiliary designs, NO WAY 14-gauge wire fits into the screw type connectors. 


I’ve found one of these works well for screw connectors - and it makes it easy to remove/replace wires from the screw terminal without mashing them all up. 
 

image.thumb.png.cbe32cbdd0b5c3ec393d3f17fd92d56e.png

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On 9/13/2023 at 9:16 PM, randy said:

so far, my only complaint is the same with all auxiliary designs, NO WAY 14-gauge wire fits into the screw type connectors.  The screw type connectors are fine/great for the standard 16-18 gauge wire used for our Farkles, but the initial battery to fuze box is always 14-gauge wire and it is too big/thick for inserting into the screw opening.

Randy - an old Indian trick is to peel back a few strands of that 14 AWG - surely you are using stranded conductor wire, aren't you?? - just enough to get the rest of the stands into the 16-18 ga screw connector.  Besure to trim the excess strands so they don't short on something, also get the whole wire just as close to the screw connector as possible.

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41 minutes ago, Cap said:

Crimper tool

 

I like this one.  It works with Deutsch connectors, and is adjustable

Well sure - it’s got a high tenacity spring and is designed for stripper wire - who wouldn’t  like it? ;)

 

 

Seriously that does look like a fine one - I just couldn’t resist poking a little fun at the interestingly translated description in the listing. 
 

 

 

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2 hours ago, Lowndes said:

Randy - an old Indian trick is to peel back a few strands of that 14 AWG - surely you are using stranded conductor wire, aren't you?? - just enough to get the rest of the stands into the 16-18 ga screw connector.  Besure to trim the excess strands so they don't short on something, also get the whole wire just as close to the screw connector as possible.


Lownedes of course that is what we all do.  we make it a "15" gauge wire by cutting the outer strands.  And yes that is what I did.  But I just do not like that.  I am going to look at that idea above, I never considered a 16 gauge butt end connector.  I have tons of those in my 12 volt "junk box" and I am going to look at that today.

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ok standard butt end connectors are not the answer.  so looking back at the crimper (which was only casually at first) I realize it is for  Deutsch DTP Connectors.  Which are a lot smaller in diameter than the butt end connectors. 

so going to pick up some Male Deutsch connectors as that looks like the solution.  I have a commercial grade crimper, so may pass on the specialized tool, but will purchase one if the deutsch connector is the solution, but my crimper does not work.  IF this works, one I will be pumped, and two I will post a picture.

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The one I use is just a generic ferrule crimped. Mine is four part so you get square ends. You can also get ones that do hex or round (like the Deutsch one above, I believe). I like that the ferrule itself covers the stripped bit of wire right at the connection so you don’t have as much a chance of a short - especially when putting a bunch is wires into something like fuzeblock. 

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I  will get my Deutsch connectors on Wednesday.  I am very excited ( I know sad) to test this out.  I have done a lot of research and to be honest, I have been wiring motorcycles for 20+ years, and never seen this.  I really like this and some variant of this will be my solution.

Now the only down side is, I will have to recreate my wiring harness.  I already "thinned" out the 14 gauge wire to fit into the screw connector so not going to re-use the current wire loom.  But a two 14 gauge wire loom is easy to make.

Again I know it is sad but I am excited to have a solution to an issue I have dealt with for many years.

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