Art.. Posted June 9, 2006 Share Posted June 9, 2006 Somehow, I warped my front rotors. Actually, it could be just one, I won't be sure until I do a run-out check. I ordered new rotors, just wondering if I should replace the pads also....... Link to comment
DaveyMac Posted June 9, 2006 Share Posted June 9, 2006 At the cost of new Rotors YESSSSSSS! Old pads wear to the old uneven surfaces. Link to comment
DEF Posted June 9, 2006 Share Posted June 9, 2006 If you want your new rotors to wear properly (without overheating and again warping) and your brakes to operate at optimum, replace the pads. Link to comment
SWB Posted June 10, 2006 Share Posted June 10, 2006 Somehow, I warped my front rotors. Actually, it could be just one, I won't be sure until I do a run-out check. I ordered new rotors, just wondering if I should replace the pads also....... New rotor's, about $250.00 a piece. # of rotors: 3 New brake pad set, about $60 a set. # of sets required: 3 After market prices, 1/2 each for a better product. Piece of mind, and that perfect, "new brake" feel? PRICELESS! Link to comment
bmuuEd Posted June 10, 2006 Share Posted June 10, 2006 I'm installing virtually new, used rotors and am using new bmw pads. Question, I cannot remember if the bevel on the pads face the front or the rear. Link to comment
DEF Posted June 10, 2006 Share Posted June 10, 2006 I do not have an answers for you regarding the bevels.......which way do YOU think they go? Link to comment
John Ranalletta Posted June 10, 2006 Share Posted June 10, 2006 Art, when I bought my GS used a couple of years ago, the front brake exhibited what I thought was an out-of-round condition of one of the front rotors. It was really annoying and it seemed to increase with use (temps). I fretted about replacing the rotors, but changed the pads. I used stock pads. Fortunately, the pulsing disappeared. I can only imagine one of the pads was at fault. I'd be interested to hear if your rotors are really out of round. Since changing my pads, I've had plenty of opportunity to overheat the rotors, riding 2-up, fully packed on hot days through the Smokies with a couple of panic stops thrown in. Link to comment
Art.. Posted June 10, 2006 Author Share Posted June 10, 2006 Thanks John, I'll definitely do a runout check before ripping the rotors off. After a week in the Smokies, I thought I was the cause but if it's something as simple as the pads I'll be in great shape. I have (barely)used rotors coming from the boneyard. Link to comment
johnt650 Posted June 10, 2006 Share Posted June 10, 2006 Both of the front rotors on my 1150RT warped and the dealer confirmed it with a runout check. Link to comment
John Ranalletta Posted June 10, 2006 Share Posted June 10, 2006 Thanks John, I'll definitely do a runout check before ripping the rotors off. After a week in the Smokies, I thought I was the cause but if it's something as simple as the pads I'll be in great shape. I have (barely)used rotors coming from the boneyard. I've always wondered if you can really check runout with the rotor on the wheel; or, whether it'd be better to chuck them up in a good lathe, especially with spoke wheels as on the GS. I had difficulty stabilizing the wheel on the bike and tried to use Marc's balancer, but I've got the original threaded rod model and the wheel "creeps" laterally because of the threads on the rod. That doesn't affect a good balance but I couldn't trust side-to-side stability. Link to comment
bmuuEd Posted June 10, 2006 Share Posted June 10, 2006 Sorry for being sarcastic. I just asked a question. Thanks. Link to comment
SWB Posted June 10, 2006 Share Posted June 10, 2006 Which aftermarket? Check around. For $250 a rotor, I'd do some serious searching on ebay and after market suppliers, and yeah, at the beemerboneyard too, if all else fails. But I hate the idea of replacing consumables from a junkyard, and particularly, brake components. Link to comment
SAAB93driver Posted June 10, 2006 Share Posted June 10, 2006 If you want EBC's they are about $190 each for the front and 140 each for the rears + freight. onle mail order sources are http://www.accwhse.com/ http://www.bikebandit.com/ Application lists for EBC http://www.ebcbrakes.com/catalogues.html Link to comment
John in VA Posted June 10, 2006 Share Posted June 10, 2006 I just paid $176.80 for a new rear rotor for my 1100RT from Chicago BMW. Link to comment
SAAB93driver Posted June 11, 2006 Share Posted June 11, 2006 I just paid $139 for a new EBC rotor for my R1150RS. Link to comment
Art.. Posted June 11, 2006 Author Share Posted June 11, 2006 Wayne, where did you get the rotors from? Link to comment
RFW Posted June 11, 2006 Share Posted June 11, 2006 Somehow, I warped my front rotors. Actually, it could be just one, I won't be sure until I do a run-out check. I ordered new rotors, just wondering if I should replace the pads also....... It it were me. I wouldn't bother. Unless the old pads are in God-awful shape, they will very quickly wear in to the new disks. Just take it easy on the braking for a few weeks and you'll be OK. Bob. Link to comment
SAAB93driver Posted June 11, 2006 Share Posted June 11, 2006 Got part numbers from EBC catalog and ordered the rear rotor and pads at: http://www.accwhse.com/ Link to comment
Hulka Posted June 19, 2006 Share Posted June 19, 2006 Just replaced my shocks and saw my rear pads are toast. What is the BIG diffrence between the "organic" and the "HH" models of the ECB. I assume one is better than the other. I read the blurb about it but it did not tell me to much. Link to comment
Boffin Posted June 19, 2006 Share Posted June 19, 2006 Just replaced my shocks and saw my rear pads are toast. What is the BIG diffrence between the "organic" and the "HH" models of the ECB. I assume one is better than the other. I read the blurb about it but it did not tell me to much. The HH are harder but have high grip levels. They will wear your discs faster and give more braking power. On the rear, more braking power is not needed and can be counter productive. Stick to the Organic pads on the rear. On the front, HH can give more power to the brakes, at the expense of higher disc wear. It is your choice which way to jump there. Andy Link to comment
Hulka Posted June 19, 2006 Share Posted June 19, 2006 OK, thanks. I will go for the HH up front since that is where your most stipping power is and the organic to the back. I will probally put new rotors on next change anyway just for piece of mind. Besides with summer temps in 110 out here some aftermarket one with better cooling will be better anyway I would assume. Link to comment
RFW Posted June 19, 2006 Share Posted June 19, 2006 OK, thanks. I will go for the HH up front since that is where your most stipping power is and the organic to the back. I will probally put new rotors on next change anyway just for piece of mind. Besides with summer temps in 110 out here some aftermarket one with better cooling will be better anyway I would assume. Be aware that "better braking power" simply means less effort for the same deceleration, or (conversely) more deceleration for the same force on the lever. The maximum stopping ability does not change, since that is related to tire adhesion. Also, the HH pads do not "cool" better; they just "grab" better, and as Andy says, they are a bit harder on your disk. One other thing is they make a nasty corrosion couple with the disk in the event you ride in the winter and get salt on them. The disk starts lightly rusting and even pitting a bit under the pads when left, if you don't hose off the bike immediately. Ask me how I know! Bob. Link to comment
Hulka Posted June 20, 2006 Share Posted June 20, 2006 OK thanks. I live in Phoenix Az., so the winter out here is like and Eskimo beach party. As for the cooling I was refering to new rotors, sorry my bad. Thanks. Link to comment
313_Matt Posted June 20, 2006 Share Posted June 20, 2006 I ordered new rotors, just wondering if I should replace the pads also....... Depending on how worn the pads are and how thrifty you are, re-using the pads is certainly an option. However, I would check for uneven wear and deglaze them to remove glaze and any ridges. I usually deglaze with a sheet of 120 grit sandpaper and moving the pad in a figure 8 motion. Work long enough to get to fresh pad material. 313-Matt Link to comment
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