Does the R1150RT have the dreaded servo assisted brakes?

[DavidR8]

I can't seem to find definitive information. In videos I see an ABS pump that looks very similar to what is on a 2005 R1200RT which has the servo assist brakes.

 

Edit: on the BMWMOA there are posts which indicate servo assisted brakes were in use from 2002-2006 so that would be 2002-2004 R1150RTs and the 2005-2006 R1200RTs

[Jim Moore]

In a word, yes. The R1150GS did not have servo brakes from 2000-2002. The R1150RT had them th whole time.

[RPG]

17 hours ago, DavidR8 said:

I can't seem to find definitive information. In videos I see an ABS pump that looks very similar to what is on a 2005 R1200RT which has the servo assist brakes.

 

Edit: on the BMWMOA there are posts which indicate servo assisted brakes were in use from 2002-2006 so that would be 2002-2004 R1150RTs and the 2005-2006 R1200RTs

Just a FYI, the word "dreaded" is a touchy subject for those of us who maintain ours and have never had an issue. :)

[DavidR8]

10 minutes ago, RPG said:

Just a FYI, the word "dreaded" is a touchy subject for those of us who maintain ours and have never had an issue. :)

True enough, no offence intended.  :)

[46nto]

The servo assist isn’t nearly as bad as folks make it out to be although I’m a short time owner/rider of them. I could definitely see a major problem if they failed thousands of miles from home -it would be tough to ride that far without the assist, that’s for sure. I’ve been thinking about picking up the front non abs union to carry with me as I could easily swap it in & bleed the brakes on the road. 
 

Now riding with them is another thing altogether. They’re weird & sometimes, they bite hard, especially if you stab the rear brake pedal with your foot. Don’t do that! I’m used to bikes with wooden feeling rear brakes so my right foot sometimes reverts to a few decades of muscle memory & I’m rewarded with an abrupt application of both front & rear brakes. I’m not a huge fan. I bet in a panic situation they could save my bacon though so I’m sticking with the ABS as it is. 

[JamesW]

The servo assist on the 1150 bikes is reason enough to never own one.  I bought a new 2004 R1150RT and sold it in 2012 when I found my 2010 FJR and I've never regretted it.  I would never consider another 1150 but the 1100 is a different story altogether.  I've completely given up trying to figure BMW out.  Oh, and their high tech wonders of today just leave me totally cold along with their cost of just routine DIY maintenance that BMW wants to eliminate.  

 

I still wish Henry Ford would have gone into motorcycle production which he considered early on.  Yup you guessed it I'm a Ford guy.

[szurszewski]

The servo assist brakes work just fine and if they are functioning and the service history is good, I'd not worry about it. (Currently two bikes, both 2004, in the garage - one came to me with gunky not well maintained non functioning leaky servo brakes which were removed without much hassle; the other was very well maintained and the servo system still works as it did from the factory and will likely continue to do so.)

 

If they do fail it's not that much work to remove the ABS entirely and be left with very good direct hydraulic non abs brakes.

 

What is expensive to do is to repair or replace the failed ABS servo unit. 

[46nto]

3 hours ago, JamesW said:

The servo assist on the 1150 bikes is reason enough to never own one.  I bought a new 2004 R1150RT and sold it in 2012 when I found my 2010 FJR and I've never regretted it.  I would never consider another 1150 but the 1100 is a different story altogether.  I've completely given up trying to figure BMW out.  Oh, and their high tech wonders of today just leave me totally cold along with their cost of just routine DIY maintenance that BMW wants to eliminate.  

 

I still wish Henry Ford would have gone into motorcycle production which he considered early on.  Yup you guessed it I'm a Ford guy.

Yeah, I love my 04 RT for what I enjoy riding & how I like to apply power, it’s head & shoulders above an inline 4 or 6 -for me. And if you have even basic mechanical skills, maintaining the braking system is a breeze. Different strokes for different folks, I guess. 
 

To my mind, nothing beats an air cooled twin. 

[1150RSSSS]

I had servo "problems" on my 1150RS 04. Discovered the hard way that it was a remote electrical issue (grounded rear brake wire and other things), not the mechanics of the unit itself. I'll never know how or where those wires were compromised deep in the wire harness, but I did learn that a lot of wiring goes through the ABS/Servo unit and it can be hard to trace a problem. I removed my ABS, and have manual brakes now which feel great, but require one to pay very close attention when emergency braking - the rear wheel likes to lock up first. I've read that more than few people remove the ABS out of preference. Removing it can be done without buying a single part (in theory). I've also noticed better battery life on around-town riding, no scientific measurements, but the servo does use a bit of electrical power so I have to assume there is some truth to it. 

[gmcjetpilot]

My 2004 R1150RT does. 19 yrs old works great. At 48K mi I just repaced all 5 flex brake lines (Galfer), new brake pads F&R, flushed fluid (11 bleeders I recall) fresh DOT 4. Was not hard. Forgot what I paid gor all the parts, about $400, not including $35 "funnel" tool. I guess all in 8 hrs. 4 hrs researching, getting stuff together and 4 hrs doing it (slowly). Now start to finish 2 hrs. Now that the learning curve is over I'll do it once a year. Only cost $16 for 1 liter Liqu Moly DOT4 and 2 hrs (RT you have to take Tupperware off).

 

I would not avoid the Oil Head RT's for fear of servo brakes. If all else fails it fies not take super human abilities to delete ABSi, save weight and complexity.

My 2004 R1150RT does. 19 yrs old works great. At 48K mi I just repaced all 5 flex brake lines (Galfer), new brake pads F&R, flushed fluid (11 bleeders I recall) fresh DOT 4. Was not hard.

 

Forgot what I paid for all the parts, about $400, not including $35 "funnel" tool. I guess all in 8 hrs. 4 hrs researching, getting stuff together and 4 hrs doing it (slowly). Now start to finish 2 hrs aftert  learning curve. I'll start doing it once a year. Only cost $16 for 1 liter of Liqu Moly DOT4 and 2 hrs.  (RT you have to take Tupperware off. Actual bleeding 30 min.

 

Brake pads are wear items as all bikes. The hoses do suck and should be replaced although ppl report getting 100K miles. Others report failure in 30K. Age is a big factor.  LACK of maintenance us a problem. Flush regularly should out live you.

 

I would not avoid the Oil Head RT's for fear of servo brakes. If all else fails it does not take super human abilities to delete ABS, save weight and complexity. Used parts are around. ABS is good but if you have skill the benifits are not drastically better with ABS.

[DavidR8]

1 hour ago, gmcjetpilot said:

My 2004 R1150RT does. 19 yrs old works great. At 48K mi I just repaced all 5 flex brake lines (Galfer), new brake pads F&R, flushed fluid (11 bleeders I recall) fresh DOT 4. Was not hard. Forgot what I paid gor all the parts, about $400, not including $35 "funnel" tool. I guess all in 8 hrs. 4 hrs researching, getting stuff together and 4 hrs doing it (slowly). Now start to finish 2 hrs. Now that the learning curve is over I'll do it once a year. Only cost $16 for 1 liter Liqu Moly DOT4 and 2 hrs (RT you have to take Tupperware off).

 

I would not avoid the Oil Head RT's for fear of servo brakes. If all else fails it fies not take super human abilities to delete ABSi, save weight and complexity.

My 2004 R1150RT does. 19 yrs old works great. At 48K mi I just repaced all 5 flex brake lines (Galfer), new brake pads F&R, flushed fluid (11 bleeders I recall) fresh DOT 4. Was not hard.

 

Forgot what I paid for all the parts, about $400, not including $35 "funnel" tool. I guess all in 8 hrs. 4 hrs researching, getting stuff together and 4 hrs doing it (slowly). Now start to finish 2 hrs aftert  learning curve. I'll start doing it once a year. Only cost $16 for 1 liter of Liqu Moly DOT4 and 2 hrs.  (RT you have to take Tupperware off. Actual bleeding 30 min.

 

Brake pads are wear items as all bikes. The hoses do suck and should be replaced although ppl report getting 100K miles. Others report failure in 30K. Age is a big factor.  LACK of maintenance us a problem. Flush regularly should out live you.

 

I would not avoid the Oil Head RT's for fear of servo brakes. If all else fails it does not take super human abilities to delete ABS, save weight and complexity. Used parts are around. ABS is good but if you have skill the benifits are not drastically better with ABS.

Thanks @gmcjetpilot, appreciate the insight.
I had a hard think about what I'm looking for in a replacement for my ST1300 and top of the list is less weight. At 730 lbs wet but without anything in the bags of top case it is a real beast to move around.
The R1150RT is about 115lbs less which is not insignificant.
Heated grips would be a treat but the ESA on the newer RTs is not a big deal as we ride two up about 90% of the time so I just leave the preload cranked up on the ST.

[dirtrider]

23 minutes ago, DavidR8 said:

Heated grips would be a treat 

Evening Dave

 

Heated grips might or might not be as big a deal as you think, depends on the rider. Personally I never even use them. My hands don't get that cold on the palms but the hand backs do (heated grips don't do anything for the backs). Heated grips only heat the palm side of the hand. Plus you need to keep a good tight grip on the bars to get the heat to filter through good winter gloves. I typically ride with a very light grip on the bars as that prevents hand cramping & allows me to ride loose & relaxed.  

 

About the only time I even think of using heated grips is in cool (not cold) weather & a constant cold rain. 

 

To me (personally) the heated seat is the BIG cold weather riding aid. If I can keep my butt & lower (core)  body warm that seems to flow out through my entire body.  It even seems to help my legs &  feet stay a little warmer. 

 

This is where the hexhead & camhead shine, as they offer a heated riders seat & heated passenger seat. As my wife got older she  wouldn't ride with me in cool weather without a heated seat. The pillion doesn't get any gain from heated grips but sure does from a heated seat.

 

 

 

 

[DavidR8]

2 minutes ago, dirtrider said:

Evening Dave

 

Heated grips might or might not be as big a deal as you think, depends on the rider. Personally I never even use them. My hands don't get that cold on the palms but the hand backs do (heated grips don't do anything for the backs). Heated grips only heat the palm side of the hand. Plus you need to keep a good tight grip on the bars to get the heat to filter through good winter gloves. I typically ride with a very light grip on the bars as that prevents hand cramping & allows me to ride loose & relaxed.  

 

About the only time I even think of using heated grips is in cool (not cold) weather & a constant cold rain. 

 

To me (personally) the heated seat is the BIG cold weather riding aid. If I can keep my butt & lower body warm that seems to flow out through my entire body.  It even seems to help my legs &  feet stay a little warmer. 

 

This is where the hexhead & camhead shine, as they offer heated riders seat & heated passenger seat. As my wife got older she  wouldn't ride with me in cool weather without a heated seat. The pillion doesn't get any gain from heated grips but sure does from a heated seat.

 

 

 

 

To be perfectly honest I have a heated grip kit for my ST but have never installed them because we don't ride in cool weather too much. I also have a heated vest that I've never used because it seems like a lot of hassle and I tend to run a bit hot. Now my wife could benefit from it though so maybe that's a solution.
 

[gmcjetpilot]

On 8/15/2023 at 3:25 PM, DavidR8 said:

Thanks @gmcjetpilot, appreciate the insight.
I had a hard think about what I'm looking for in a replacement for my ST1300 and top of the list is less weight. At 730 lbs wet but without anything in the bags of top case it is a real beast to move around.
The R1150RT is about 115lbs less which is not insignificant.
Heated grips would be a treat but the ESA on the newer RTs is not a big deal as we ride two up about 90% of the time so I just leave the preload cranked up on the ST.

ST is a fantastic bike. A 2004 RT can be found (nice one) $4k to $6k. I would suggest going to the Wet head 1200RT . I saw an oh so nice one for $6k, good history, resonable history. Regret not buying. But love the R1150RT.

 

The 2004 Tupperware is a thing of beauty over any later RT IMHO. However also yohave e to remove it for maintenance as I recall I mentioned. I have a woid board, with a sketch of fastener pattern, holes drilled in the board, to hold screws in proper order...

 

The dreaded spline issue is infamous if not over blown. However if you hot one, bad. Some apparently came off Assy line with mis aligned holes that caused early spline destruction.

 

I'm going on the theory if it is still working well at 46K miles it will goto 146K or 246k.miles.. The clutch is dry and transmission is very goid but not jaoaneese wet clurch good.

 

Lube of spline is another topic ppl have discussed at nauseum, as I will continue the tradition. The spin issue is not lack of lube but manufacturers error on some units. The disign us farm tractor simple and durable. However it is impossible  to lube (fully or properly) with bike assembled. My opinion you don't need to di anything. It shoukd be good for life of clutch.  There are believers of removing starter abd trying to lube some way with limited access.

 

Dirtrider can advise, he us my BMW Sherpa climbing the BMW maintenance moutain. Dirtrider is my BMW Sensei in kicking maintenance gremlins.

 

My point is shop around and look for smooth shifts, ease of getting into gear and no excessive drive train play. Research the topic. 

 

It is a very well balanced bike. It has 6.5Gal of gas and long range, 279 miles I look for fas. However that is 36lbs. It is a low center gravity bike but fuel does move weight and CG up a little. It comes w/ 3 integrated bags, 2 side 1 top. They have a cool dual handle system to release and to open. 

 

I'm going to Riders Association Rally then full length of Blue Ridge Pkwy N to S, camping out 2 nights alongvthe way. Then straight to , Triple Tree Aerodrome Fly In at Woodruff SC. Then Deal Gap NC (Tail of the Dragon), then to friends near Nashville, then home near Memphis TN. 13 days, 2000 miles, camping out 10 days, 2 of those days primitive. So I trust this 19 yr old bike. The variable is the rider, me,  x3 older than bike. 

 

The new stuff, with cruise control, electronic wizardry from cruse contol, adaptive electronic suspension, lean angle and other sensors to control ABS and traction contol, mapping of engine power is amazung.  Integrated display and Navigation and a dozand buttons on grips is amazing.  The R1150RT is basic goodness with the right amount of farkke it'sa great ride. Electronic cruise woukd ve nuce. I have throttle lock and throttle helper. I can ride 500 miles and not feel beat *although the heat takes it out of me.* Hope mid to end of Sept is cooler and dry 

 

I like heated grips a lot. The RT grips  gets nice and toasty on highest of 2 settings. It is very fast acting. With air blocked by rear view mirrors, in mild winter wx and regularglives tge heated grios should di well.

 

The bike has 2 DC outlets behind Riders knee, made to plug in electric heated gear / clothes for both rider and Pax. Also doubkws to charge battery.  The fairing, with electrically adjustable wind screen and rear view mirrors that block wind on hands as mentioned it is great. I love mild winter weather (above 32F). Very comfortable without heated gear. Summer fairing may be too good. When 97F and 97% humidity fairing or not it's hot. Engine heat on legs non existant. With wind screen down, jacket partly zipped open, helmet visor cracked open at speed there is enough airflow to be as comfortable as possible.

 

HOWEVER yesteday my phone was warning me of being too hot. My normal Nav is a Garmin Nuvi on a ram mount. Well I decided to use my phone for Nav. I put that in the X grip. When I reached up I felt warm air than ambient. I relized warm air from oil cooler (nose of fairing) goes aft, some air going down towards engine, and some air blows up between bottom of  instrument cluster and fwd of  handlebars. So it is warmer air, and it gets little pure "cool" air from outside fairing, since that area is so well protected.  SEE PICTURE BELOW  The Garmin GPS does not care. When ambient Temps are +90F nothing is cool 🥵

 

I typically have phone in jacket or tank bag. I stream music via BT sometimes or wired headset.   However phones overheat when being charged in direct sunlight light and high ambient Temps on any bike, even if in the breeze on the handlebar.

 

ST is a great bike. Never road one. Never road a Kawasaki Concourse 1300 I belive. I read rave reviews. Weight is a deal but test drive one before you buy. I'd let you ride my bike... if in the area.

 

I can tell you I dropped my bike twice. Once at rally on grass. it was off camber and bike leaned over too far with foot down and slowly laid it down. The other was parking garage going ip the ramps when a car going down, going fast undercut corner of and was headed for me. Locked it uo in at slow speed turn with handle bars turned. Again let it down slowly. BMW may be easier to pick up with engine cylinders sticking out, plus sude bags. To be honest so long ago I don't know what touches ground. My handle bar ends are virgins.  One of my mirrors has some rash. Minor and thunk it was the parking garage incident.

 

.Valve covers should have optional guards. I drove mine 12 yrs with no valve cover guards. Just put some on recently The valve covers had some scuffs on the bottom you can't normally sed standing, but I dressed them out and touched it up. Can't tell. 

[Joe ds]

On 8/11/2023 at 6:10 PM, szurszewski said:

The servo assist brakes work just fine and if they are functioning and the service history is good, I'd not worry about it. (Currently two bikes, both 2004, in the garage - one came to me with gunky not well maintained non functioning leaky servo brakes which were removed without much hassle; the other was very well maintained and the servo system still works as it did from the factory and will likely continue to do so.)

 

If they do fail it's not that much work to remove the ABS entirely and be left with very good direct hydraulic non abs brakes.

 

What is expensive to do is to repair or replace the failed ABS servo unit. 

What I understand is if you disable a defective abs servo brake system your insurance will void if discovered.
If you sell the bike with disabled abs brakes you are opening yourself to a giant liability law suit for disabling the abs system.

l would consider the long turn chances of liability.

[9Mary7]

1 hour ago, Joe ds said:

What I understand is if you disable a defective abs servo brake system your insurance will void if discovered.
If you sell the bike with disabled abs brakes you are opening yourself to a giant liability law suit for disabling the abs system.

l would consider the long turn chances of liability.

Insurance doesn't care, as the bikes come both with and without ABS.

I personally tell buyers of my bikes about any modifications that have been done and are sold as-is on a bill of sale stating so.

Your belief is far-fetched.

[szurszewski]

21 hours ago, Joe ds said:

What I understand is if you disable a defective abs servo brake system your insurance will void if discovered.
If you sell the bike with disabled abs brakes you are opening yourself to a giant liability law suit for disabling the abs system.

l would consider the long turn chances of liability.

 

 

This is an interesting choice for first post.

 

I'm going to go with @9Mary7 on this one and not worry about it. I mean, I don't know the answer 100%, but I am certain I've never known of this to happen. 

 

In any case, I do want to say, welcome to the board! If you've got some bikes, start a hello thread and post up some pics - we love bike pics! 

[RogerC60]

When I discovered the iABS module on my '03 RT was bad and decided to remove it, I contacted my insurance agent. He told me it would make no difference to my coverage nor to my premium.