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2014 R1200GS fuse exam


Toast

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Was riding the other day and my red triangle and battery icon lit up.  I continued to ride to work and the instrument cluster began going on/off/on/off and ultimately shut down altogether.  I replaced the battery but the triangle and battery icons did not go away.  I rode it home, about 25 miles and the bike shut down altogether in my driveway.  In the rain, of course!  I'm trying to visually examine the 50 amp fuse below the seat but can't for the life of me figure out how to access it.  How do you open this damn thing!?  Likewise for the two fuses below the pillion seat.  Any input would be appreciated.

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Have you done a voltage test on the battery? If low, it sounds like the charging system may not be working. Not sure if the fuses you want to check have anything to do with that, but if the battery is low, charge it, get the bike running, and check the voltage while running.

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3 hours ago, Toast said:

Was riding the other day and my red triangle and battery icon lit up.  I continued to ride to work and the instrument cluster began going on/off/on/off and ultimately shut down altogether.  I replaced the battery but the triangle and battery icons did not go away.  I rode it home, about 25 miles and the bike shut down altogether in my driveway.  In the rain, of course!  I'm trying to visually examine the 50 amp fuse below the seat but can't for the life of me figure out how to access it.  How do you open this damn thing!?  Likewise for the two fuses below the pillion seat.  Any input would be appreciated.

Afternoon Toast

 

There was a BMW service bulletin on that possibility     "BMW Motorrad has ascertained that in isolated cases the fuse for the voltage regulator is not correctly secured in the holder by the threaded fasteners. This can prevent the battery from being charged while the motorcycle is being ridden"

 

To open that fuse cover there is a little tang or tab on the cover's non-hinged side, that tab needs to be pulled or lightly pried away (then held there)  away from the cover to allow it to open.

 

If that big fuse in not making good contact, or is blown, then IT WILL NOT CHARGE. 

 

This is NOT the 2 fuse plug as those don't have anything to do with the charging, the fuse that you are looking for is in that long black box that runs along the side of the fueling computer. If there is a wire taped running along the top then you might have to cut the tape to get the door open. 

 

F9Swt6Z.jpg

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On 8/9/2023 at 2:56 PM, dirtrider said:

Afternoon Toast

 

There was a BMW service bulletin on that possibility     "BMW Motorrad has ascertained that in isolated cases the fuse for the voltage regulator is not correctly secured in the holder by the threaded fasteners. This can prevent the battery from being charged while the motorcycle is being ridden"

 

To open that fuse cover there is a little tang or tab on the cover's non-hinged side, that tab needs to be pulled or lightly pried away (then held there)  away from the cover to allow it to open.

 

If that big fuse in not making good contact, or is blown, then IT WILL NOT CHARGE. 

 

This is NOT the 2 fuse plug as those don't have anything to do with the charging, the fuse that you are looking for is in that long black box that runs along the side of the fueling computer. If there is a wire taped running along the top then you might have to cut the tape to get the door open. 

 

F9Swt6Z.jpgDr, my volt regulator doesn’t look like that, I’ve added a photo.  There is a black plastic “thing” attached to the other side but im not sure if that is what you mean

image.jpg

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12 hours ago, Toast said:

Dr, my volt regulator doesn’t look like that, I’ve added a photo.

 

Morning Toast

 

That is not your voltage regulator that is the BMS-KP (fueling computer)

 

Put it back where it was then post a picture of that area from a little farter out (so it shows a larger surrounding area) 

 

 

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Well, I feel kinda dumb about that, but we all gotta start somewhere…!  Here it is, put back and farther out.  I really appreciate your input, thank you

image.jpg

image.jpg

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5 minutes ago, Toast said:

Well, I feel kinda dumb about that, but we all gotta start somewhere…!  Here it is, put back and farther out.  I really appreciate your input, thank you

Morning Toast

 

Well, you don't seem to have that fuse box. I will look into that so look back here later today. 

 

 

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Morning Toast

 

OK, we have a little problem here__ It looks like you have an early (built in 2013) 2014 1200GS, I don't have a wire diagram for the early 2014GS. My BMW parts manual shows a fuse  but I have other Info that doesn't show one on the late 2013 built 2014 1200GS.

 

It doesn't look (at first look anyhow) like your early 2014 GS has a regulator fuse. (at least the manual doesn't refer to one).

 

We might be able to work around that if you can assist. 

 

Can you locate the voltage regulator if so clean the wires up going into it then tell me the wire colors & wire size of the wires. Should be 3 wires going into one connector & 2 larger wires going into the other connector.  

 

 

Should look something like the below picture. 

 

NERlIas.jpg

 

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17 minutes ago, Toast said:

I will look into it tonight when I get home.  Thanks for your help!

Morning Toast

 

Do you have a digital volt/ohm meter & know how to use it?  

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On the RT, the voltage regulator that Dirtrider posted a picture of is mounted under the fender, just below the fueling computer. You may have to remove your rear wheel to access it. 

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8 hours ago, dirtrider said:

Morning Toast

 

Do you have a digital volt/ohm meter & know how to use it?  

I have one and can use it…mostly

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37 minutes ago, Toast said:

I have one and can use it…mostly

Afternoon Toast

 

Check your personal messages as I sent you a picture.

 

With that  volt/ohm meter  we can probably track the problem down. 

 

So once you access the voltage regulator, unplug both connectors (you might have to drop the regulator down to unplug the connectors)

 

Once you get the connectors loose (one 2 wire & one 3 wire) find the 2 wire connector. Put your meter on 20 volt DC scale then test between the 2 terminals in the 2 pin connector (not the regulator itself but the wire  pigtail end) you need to see 12 volts +/- but it should be the same as battery voltage.   (polarity should not matter as it will just read  -12v if backwards).

 

If you have 12v +/- across the 2 pin connector then you don't have a fuse problem or open in that area, this is actually a bad sign as it probably means a bad voltage regulator/rectifier  (not likely but possible) but probably more indicates a stator failure. 

 

Do the above then we can test farther as the above readings indicate a direction.   

 

 

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