Motoscan update - ESA calibration

[alexvtr]

The latest Motoscan update has brought among other features ESA calibration on the K52.

Since Motoscan has very little useful documentation on the use of the - MANY - functions it can perform, I was wondering if anyone has ever performed this calibration procedure on a 1200RT LC?

I believe the GS-911 had this function for a while so I guess experience with this tool may apply to Motoscan (like, what setting the bike has to be in before initiating the procedure, any pre- or post- other function that should be done when calibrating the ESA, etc.).

TIA!

[Bernie]

You can do the ESA calibration in any setting. The GS911 user interface will tell you to support the bike on the center stand, with both wheels in the air.

This usually requires a jack under the motor to take the weight of the front wheel.

I have done the procedure several times, and I always do it in the "One Rider" and "Normal" position of the suspension.

The GS 911 has 2 suspension functions. One is ESA calibration the other lets you operate the Pre-Load motor, if I am remembering this correctly.

 

[alexvtr]

13 hours ago, Bernie said:

You can do the ESA calibration in any setting. The GS911 user interface will tell you to support the bike on the center stand, with both wheels in the air.

This usually requires a jack under the motor to take the weight of the front wheel.

I have done the procedure several times, and I always do it in the "One Rider" and "Normal" position of the suspension.

The GS 911 has 2 suspension functions. One is ESA calibration the other lets you operate the Pre-Load motor, if I am remembering this correctly.

 

Thank you for your input.

 

You mention that you performed this procedure a few times.

I was wondering if this is something that should be done once in a while to keep on top of things? Like make sure the suspension performs optimally throughout it's lifespan?

Or is it something that should only be done if there's a problem with the suspension or when you change a component?

[Bernie]

I don’t know how often it should be done. I know BMW and Hexcode recommend it to be done when you change suspension components. I have been doing it every 6k mile service for the last 97K miles. I been using the oem suspension until recently and have not seen any negative effects. 

I also try to cycle the suspension settings on the handlebar controls every few rides or at least once a month. Exercising my suspension. 

[alexvtr]

Yeah, I like gadgets and use the suspension settings almost every ride.

Thanks again for your input. 

I'll give the new Motoscan feature a try soon.

[Bernie]

Great, keep us posted on how it worked for you.

[alexvtr]

So I hooked up the device and everything went smoothly (I heard the preload motor in rear shock cycle, etc.).

However, I have (another!) question:

After completing the calibration routine, the app mentions that the bike has to be ridden in each of the 6 gears for 10 seconds and upshifted using the quickshifter.

Easier said than done when you live downtown with stop signs and traffic lights like 200ft from home.

I was wondering what if I refrain from using the Q/S until I'm on a empty streach of road where I can run through the 6 gears 10 seconds each?

Will the "brains" of the Q/S be pleased with that or do I have to redo the procedure on the side of an empty road?

[Bernie]

You must have reset the transmission. To relearn transmission, speed is not as important as the 10 seconds in each gear. On my 2018, the gear number display will actually flash for those 10seconds. When it goes solid, shift up to the next gear. If for some reason you can’t reset it because of traffic, take the app and the interface with you to a large parking lot on Sunday morning and reset it there and then relearn the transmission. 

[alexvtr]

Just a quick update: I finally manage to get the bike out for a ride where I could find an empty and long enough strech of road to perform the "10-seconds in each gear" routine.

 

Just a heads up: When I left home after my initial recalibration of the Q/S (so without having the chance to do the relearn routine), everything was as usual (no warning light or anything else) but the Q/S was simply not working.

 

So once I found a quiet strech of road, I had to remove the lower fairing, plug the OBD2 adaptor, re-wipe the Q/S parameters on my Motoscan app and then, I used the chronometer display in my cluster to count 10 seconds in each gears (I erred on the plus side to be safe). I did not try to use the quick shifter while doing so. After 10 sec in 6th, I stopped and turned off the engine for +/- 2 minutes.

 

Q/S operation after that was fine.

I don't know if it was placebo effect, but I believe it was a little smoother after the re-learn procedure.

I hope this helps someone!

[Stiggy]

Motoscan related: My Android friendly Chromebook laptop bit the dust unexpectedly, and Motoscan reminded me that the original download still exists in my Google App account so new devices that use Android are automatically equipped to run the app, no charge.

What was a pleasant surprise is that the $30 (from Amazon) smart phone that I bought to run OBD Link and Motoscan works just fine. (This particular unit is locked into Trac Fone if I ever wanted to use that service, but I know that I won't so not an issue.)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BBXBXCFC?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

[LAF]

I have done many re learns.  I do them live on the road.  I have seen the results of running this process on the center stand, and it does not give the same results as on the road live reset, and the motor chop when done.

 

I have done 6 or 7 for people and it has improved all of them.  I have a road, where you can get the first 4 then onto a highway for 5th and 6th to the next exit and chop it and let canbus shut down completely.

 

Holding the 10 seconds is very important, and then shutting down is very important for the learning process to take.

 

No matter what, your never going to get a snick into 1st from neutral at a stop.  BMW's just not built that way.  At least any I have rode.  The LT was the closest, but dry clutch and all that.

[lkraus]

7 minutes ago, LAF said:

No matter what, your never going to get a snick into 1st from neutral at a stop.  BMW's just not built that way.  At least any I have rode.  The LT was the closest, but dry clutch and all that.

A Hexhead (dry clutch) will make a silent N ->1 shift, or it will CLUNK, depending on how long you take to shift after pulling the clutch.

 

Lightly preload the shifter and complete the shift as you squeeze the lever and you will need to watch the gear indicator to know it is in gear.

 

Pull in the clutch, wait a bit before poking the shifter, and you can watch as bystanders start looking for transmission pieces on the ground.