R1150RT in 2023?

[46nto]

Heck yes!!! I’ve put about 5000 miles on my new to me 04 RT & it just keeps getting better. It came to me with a Wilber’s front & Öhlins rear shock which I’ve pretty much got dialed (think I need a touch less rebound on both ends but it’s close) I put a low Sargent seat on it as I’m 5’5”. That put my legs at too tight of a knee angle so I added some Knight Designs lower pegs. My windscreen is still a bit high so I’m going to get a lower CalSci model when I figure out what height. 

It’s had a recent HES & most other wiring looks great. Going to do a set of battery cables & probably a starter (or it least take it apart & clean it. Probably do stick coils, plugs & wires too. 
 

I did Spiegler brake lines before I took a trip from MA down most of the BRP then on to Athens, GA. The bike performed great the whole trip!

 

The stock fuel delivery was not so great so I put in new style, matched injectors, adjusted valves, balanced the TBs & then I added an Afxied or whatever that thing is & it runs like a top! No more snatchy throttle & almost all lurching hesitations gone at 3700rpm. 
 

I plan to pull it apart & go through it even better this winter & add an extended spline clutch of it doesn’t have it. 
 

Today I added Denali lights on Clearwater mirror brackets. I can finally see at night!!

 

Im coming off a 14 K16GTLE & man, this RT is just such a better bike for me! I’m doing a track day this coming Tuesday, I can’t wait!
 

Here’s a pic of me from the Dragon on my trip. I’ll post a pic of just the bike but it’s filthy & needs a good wash & wax.
 

My name is Kris, btw & I’m in Springfield, MA. 
 

[RK Ryder]

I wouldn't be surprised if our Oilheads become the new dependable, reliable bikes on the roads, replacing the Airheads (hope no Airheads are reading this) for longevity.

 

Nice colour.

 

Cheers!

 

Paul

[Sam Taylor]

I miss my R1150RT a bunch.  It sits in my garage, towed back after its second spline failure, as if by clockwork, at about 120,000 miles.  It is worth a ton to me but not much to anyone else in this state.

 

It was a great bike, but BY NO MEANS was it "the new dependable".  

 

That said, I still love her.

[duckhawk64]

I put a Sargent low seat and Wunderliche peg lowering hardware on my 021150rt. I went from sitting on it to sitting IN IT.  Had the OEM large top case. Sold the bike, but still miss it. Best looking moderm  BMW bodywork in my opinion. The power brakes were a worry. 

The 19 r1250rt is convenient and the ride is better. 

[TEWKS]

Great, glad you’re loving the new bike! 

[46nto]

I have 3 concerns about reliability -the clutch slave cylinder, clutch/trans input splines & ABS. I’m a mechanic, I work on transport refrigeration units & am more or less a cross between hvac tech, diesel mechanic & electrician. At work, I have a large bay & plan to get a lift so I can work easier on bikes. There may be a Goldwing project happening with my son, also a mechanic working at a local Fire dealer. 

 

I’ll be pulling the back half of the bike apart this winter & will address the splines & slave cylinder. I’d really prefer a cable actuated clutch but I the unit on my bike currently works great. I’ve read the beemer boneyard slave lasts longer than OE so that’s a possibility. Hopefully my trans input splines are still in good shape but if not, I’ll find a good looking used gearbox & put that in. 
 

ABS failure is a real concern. The previous owner kept up on maintenance & it works great. I did SS brake lines so no sorry about hose failure. If the module fails on the road, it’ll be bad news but once home, I’ll have no issues converting to non abs. I may do that anyway but I’m still up in the air on that. 
 

Overall though, I do think this machine could be extremely reliable & since I’m capable of all maintenance/repair it won’t cost me too much to keep it that way. 
 

The shift cam bikes look great & if I could afford it, I’d love one of the newer ones that don’t have the giant TFT screen -I’m not a fan of that, I guess I’m just old. The weather protection looks fantastic, the improved power would be great for 2-up riding & esa suspension, ride modes, etc are great. I just really like the relative simplicity of my oil head. 

[dirtrider]

1 hour ago, 46nto said:

I have 3 concerns about reliability -the clutch slave cylinder, clutch/trans input splines & ABS. I’m a mechanic, I work on transport refrigeration units & am more or less a cross between hvac tech, diesel mechanic & electrician. At work, I have a large bay & plan to get a lift so I can work easier on bikes. There may be a Goldwing project happening with my son, also a mechanic working at a local Fire dealer. 

 

I’ll be pulling the back half of the bike apart this winter & will address the splines & slave cylinder. I’d really prefer a cable actuated clutch but I the unit on my bike currently works great. I’ve read the beemer boneyard slave lasts longer than OE so that’s a possibility. Hopefully my trans input splines are still in good shape but if not, I’ll find a good looking used gearbox & put that in. 
 

ABS failure is a real concern. The previous owner kept up on maintenance & it works great. I did SS brake lines so no sorry about hose failure. If the module fails on the road, it’ll be bad news but once home, I’ll have no issues converting to non abs. I may do that anyway but I’m still up in the air on that. 
 

Overall though, I do think this machine could be extremely reliable & since I’m capable of all maintenance/repair it won’t cost me too much to keep it that way. 
 

The shift cam bikes look great & if I could afford it, I’d love one of the newer ones that don’t have the giant TFT screen -I’m not a fan of that, I guess I’m just old. The weather protection looks fantastic, the improved power would be great for 2-up riding & esa suspension, ride modes, etc are great. I just really like the relative simplicity of my oil head. 

Morning  46nto

 

On the slave cylinder?-- Watch the color of the brake fluid in the master cylinder reservoir, if that starts getting dark or turning black that usually indicates a slave failure is in your future.

 

On the splines?-- You can get an idea on spline wear condition by removing the starter,  zip tying the clutch hand lever in to the grip, then using a pointed stiff pointed wire or a scribe to reach in & rotate the clutch disk within it's play on the trans input shaft. The somewhat good news is, from what I have seen anyhow, the 2004 BMW 1150 6-speed bikes had fewer spline failures than the earlier 1150 6-speed bikes.

 

On the I-ABS braking system?-- The stainless steel brake lines can help that as they don't allow moisture to wick through them into the brake fluid.  Even so the best thing you can do is a total bleed of both the control side & the wheel circuit side every year. If you store the motorcycle for winter (or off season) then try to do the brake service just before storage. 

[46nto]

42 minutes ago, dirtrider said:

Morning  46nto

 

On the slave cylinder?-- Watch the color of the brake fluid in the master cylinder reservoir, if that starts getting dark or turning black that usually indicates a slave failure is in your future.

 

On the splines?-- You can get an idea on spline wear condition by removing the starter,  zip tying the clutch hand lever in to the grip, then using a pointed stiff pointed wire or a scribe to reach in & rotate the clutch disk within it's play on the trans input shaft. The somewhat good news is, from what I have seen anyhow, the 2004 BMW 1150 6-speed bikes had fewer spline failures than the earlier 1150 6-speed bikes.

 

On the I-ABS braking system?-- The stainless steel brake lines can help that as they don't allow moisture to wick through them into the brake fluid.  Even so the best thing you can do is a total bleed of both the control side & the wheel circuit side every year. If you store the motorcycle for winter (or off season) then try to do the brake service just before storage. 

 

Good morning dirtrider,

 

I really appreciate the tips here! The previous owner(s) did a great job on routine maintenance as far as I can tell. The fluid for both clutch & brake are clean as can be. I did a good chunk of the brake system bleed when installing hoses so I can see a full bleed should be pretty easy.
 

Great idea to check spline wear! I’m going to pull the starter at some point anyway so I’ll definitely use this method to estimate their condition. 
 

A PO installed a set of Denali lights -he took the lights but left the harness. I installed a set of their driving lights & it makes a huge difference at night, I can actually see!! Unfortunately, the relay coil wiring leaves a lot to be desired. He used a 12v wire from the fog light switch using a posi tap connector. Ugh. In my transport refrigeration world we fight corroded wires constantly & that connector sets off all my alarm bells. That & I don’t necessarily want fogs on at the same time as the Denalis. I’ll likely repair that wire & re route the relay coil wire -maybe an add a fuse type thing from the fuse box. I’ll need to figure it out when I get a chance. 
 

Thanks again for the advice!

[dirtrider]

36 minutes ago, 46nto said:

 

Good morning dirtrider,

 

I really appreciate the tips here! The previous owner(s) did a great job on routine maintenance as far as I can tell. The fluid for both clutch & brake are clean as can be. I did a good chunk of the brake system bleed when installing hoses so I can see a full bleed should be pretty easy.
 

Great idea to check spline wear! I’m going to pull the starter at some point anyway so I’ll definitely use this method to estimate their condition. 
 

A PO installed a set of Denali lights -he took the lights but left the harness. I installed a set of their driving lights & it makes a huge difference at night, I can actually see!! Unfortunately, the relay coil wiring leaves a lot to be desired. He used a 12v wire from the fog light switch using a posi tap connector. Ugh. In my transport refrigeration world we fight corroded wires constantly & that connector sets off all my alarm bells. That & I don’t necessarily want fogs on at the same time as the Denalis. I’ll likely repair that wire & re route the relay coil wire -maybe an add a fuse type thing from the fuse box. I’ll need to figure it out when I get a chance. 
 

Thanks again for the advice!

Morning  46nto

 

I agree, I also hate posi-taps, Scotch-Locks,  & devices similar to those as they don't seal the wire intrusion so can allow water (especially salt water) to gain access & cause corrosion, then you end up with future high resistance issues. 

 

I almost always use splice clips, properly soldered after crimping (with correct crimp tool), then covered with sealing type (glue lined) heat shrink tube. That gives me a water tight joint that is probably good for at least 10 meter submersion.  

[46nto]

I figured I'd dredge up my thread to report a clutch slave cylinder failure...

 

I rode from western MA to Athens, GA for work again. This was my second trip down on my RT. I began to notice a bit of a change in clutch lever feel but didn't pay nearly as much attention as I should have during my stay. As I was leaving the hotel in Athens heading for Robbinsville, I had my bike warming up a bit & backed out of my parking spot. There was a truck full of guys in a work truck behind me. As I grabbed the clutch lever, I noticed almost no resistance & as soon as I clicked down into 1st the bike lurched & stalled. Uh oh. I got out of the way & was able to pump enough pressure up to get to a gas station around the corner. I pulled the clutch reservoir & the mucky gray oil in there told me all was not well with the slave cylinder. I got some brake fluid with the intention of trying a bleed but damn, that bleed hose was nowhere near where I needed it to be & really, I'd need three hands anyway. Oh man, this is a big problem 1000 miles from home... I took a look at the bleeder & low & behold, a previous owner put a speed bleeder fitting in there. There was now hope! I cracked the fitting & did a lousy bleed but it got me on my way.

 

Decisions, decisions... Do I hop on a highway & only stop for gas bleeding along the way? Do I call Beemer Boneyard when they open & have Mike overnight night a slave cylinder to my brother's house near Charlotte & try to fix it there? Or do I continue out to western NC & TN to get some riding in knowing I might be tempting fate.

 

Well, I'm not the sharpest bulb in the drawer so I elected to keep heading toward Robbinsville & try to get some good riding in. Winter is on the way up north & I love riding down south so to the mountains I went. I made it from Athens to Suches without much trouble but the clutch lever kept getting mushier & mushier. I stopped & got a roll of paper towels to catch soak up the brake fluid & did a better bleed. Off I went trying to shift clutchless & I got pretty good at it, eventually. I checked into the San Ran Motel in Robbinsville & did another bleed then headed out to ride some local roads near Deal's Gap then back over to the Cherohala Skyway & didn't need a bleed til I got back to the motel. Before bed, I topped of the reservoir & did a really good bleed which still felt great in the morning. I began heading for home out 28 & over toward Cherokee. I hopped on the Blue Ridge Parkway not far from Maggie Valley as the entrance in Cherokee was closed. I enjoyed a good day of riding & only had to bleed a couple times.

 

From Waynesville, VA it was time to hop on the highway. I got to Hazleton, PA that night & finally made it home with a few more bleeds along the way. I ordered the parts & tackled the job Friday. When I got the failed slave cylinder out, it wasn't nearly as wet & slippery as I thought it would be. I also noticed it was a Magura branded part & didn't look that old. I managed to get the new one in but it was a pain in the butt! I didn't take out the aluminum spacer bar between the steel subframe & it was tough to access. I wanted to get the battery tray out but realized it also was part of the mount for the ABS module/pump -at least I think it was. I pulled the battery but didn't mess with the ABS or do anything with the airbox so I couldn't fold up the subframe but I managed to do the job anyway. I ended up needing a hand vacuum pump to get the fluid through the system but once I got it going, I pumped the system til the fluid was clean as can be & then some.

 

I've been out for a few rides since & the clutch feel is back to the way it should be with just one follow up bleed. That part was the one I was most worried about failing & I honestly don't think it was super old. I know I put 15000 miles on it but don't know how long that other one had been in there for. I *really* hope this one goes more than 15k. I still love the bike but unfortunately my girlfriend doesn't, it's a bit uncomfortable for her on the back. I'm just entering into a job where I should be making really good money (for an uneducated mechanic) & might be able to get a newer touring bike for 2 up travels. I've been looking hard at newer RT's but I wouldn't need two regardless of the changes in the platform. I've always wanted a Harley & am considering a Road Glide. I didn't like the K16GTLE I had at all, it was too complex for me & me being a fool & putting a Corbin seat on it made it a real challenge at 5'5". I'll definitely thoroughly test ride a few different brands & models before getting something, though. In the meantime my 04RT is a great fit for solo touring, commuting & fun weekend riding.

[46nto]

Oh and I finally dropped it! I went to lean it on the kickstand I hadn't put down & over we went hahaha! no real damage as it has cylinder guards & bags. You can barely see any sign of it on the beg, thankfully.

[RPG]

On 7/28/2023 at 10:13 PM, 46nto said:

Heck yes!!! I’ve put about 5000 miles on my new to me 04 RT & it just keeps getting better. It came to me with a Wilber’s front & Öhlins rear shock which I’ve pretty much got dialed (think I need a touch less rebound on both ends but it’s close) I put a low Sargent seat on it as I’m 5’5”. That put my legs at too tight of a knee angle so I added some Knight Designs lower pegs. My windscreen is still a bit high so I’m going to get a lower CalSci model when I figure out what height. 

It’s had a recent HES & most other wiring looks great. Going to do a set of battery cables & probably a starter (or it least take it apart & clean it. Probably do stick coils, plugs & wires too. 
 

I did Spiegler brake lines before I took a trip from MA down most of the BRP then on to Athens, GA. The bike performed great the whole trip!

 

The stock fuel delivery was not so great so I put in new style, matched injectors, adjusted valves, balanced the TBs & then I added an Afxied or whatever that thing is & it runs like a top! No more snatchy throttle & almost all lurching hesitations gone at 3700rpm. 
 

I plan to pull it apart & go through it even better this winter & add an extended spline clutch of it doesn’t have it. 
 

Today I added Denali lights on Clearwater mirror brackets. I can finally see at night!!

 

Im coming off a 14 K16GTLE & man, this RT is just such a better bike for me! I’m doing a track day this coming Tuesday, I can’t wait!
 

Here’s a pic of me from the Dragon on my trip. I’ll post a pic of just the bike but it’s filthy & needs a good wash & wax.
 

My name is Kris, btw & I’m in Springfield, MA. 
 

Congratulations! Still riding a '04 RT myself that I bought new. Currently at 135k. Last a year a trip to the rally in Richmond, VA doing backroads from MI. It continues to impress with un-paralleled comfort, wind protection and great handling. No issues with iABS or the final drive....(knock on wood).

 

 

[Redfoxx]

Since your so good at fixing, I did TB sync, plugs, oil, diff, trans, fuel filter, hoses, quick connects, can removal, cam chain upgrade, different seat, poly head guards, rear brakes,  but I have to do brake lines, tires, likely clutch, clutch cylinder, tires, taller wind screen, alternator belt.

 

I got mine this fall with 60K miles pretty much original-someone messed with fuel tank, hoses and bath tube caulk to seal gas cap. I had charcoal in fuel tank, fuel filter was black inside cut open.  So when you got your clutch figured out. Guessing that is direction heading.

 

Riding 2 up, I came from a wing and it was fine. But it does not handle like an RT.  The RT is also a little more spartan compared to a wing.