clunky sounding

[flyingfrogs19]

14,000 miles garage kept.  Just got this thing running after 7 years years.  The engine sounds great.  It purrs!  New to this style bike and engine.  Used to ride '02 honda VTX 1800.  So much more power than this one and less clunky.  Part of the fix was new Oem clutch and brake master cylinders, break lines and clutch line. oil change, air filter change, fuel pump, washed out tank,  Looks really good too.  Anyway when I engage the clutch it clunks.  When my rpms are high upon switching gears it slips in smooth, but if I am off a bit it clunks in.  Is this just the way it is or is something off, besides me.  Thanks yall.  Gotten some great advise on here.   Oh  it is an '98 R1200C.   

[Rougarou]

Completely, 100% normal.

[Etienne Lau]

The bike has a dry clutch and not a wet clutch. So it's not bathed in oil to "smooth" engagement. My 2010 R1200RT clunks as the clutch reaches the friction point. I kind of like it when I am creeping along in slow traffic, it let's me know the bike will start rolling forward....

[flyingfrogs19]

I've gotten used to this now.  And knowing when the sweet spot is to shift helps for smoothness.  It is funny how this is normal.  Seems like this would wear after some time.  Thanks again for the reassurance.  Holler!

[Rougarou]

24 minutes ago, flyingfrogs19 said:

I've gotten used to this now.  And knowing when the sweet spot is to shift helps for smoothness.  It is funny how this is normal.  Seems like this would wear after some time.  Thanks again for the reassurance.  Holler!

 

If it gets really loud, may be an issue.

 

I ended up replacing the tranny out of concern of the "what if, will it fail"

 

 

[Hosstage]

They all do that...

[Rougarou]

1 hour ago, Hosstage said:

They all do that...

 

Not that loud.  The normal rattle was "normal", but the bike started rattling really loud, outside the "normal" rattle levels,.....even my deaf ass noticed it.  Two shops as well thought it outside the "normal" rattle.

[Hosstage]

My sarcasm doesn't always translate well...

"They all do that" is considered the standard answer at the Harley shop, especially under warranty, whether normal or not. It could sound like shaking a paint can full of marbles, the answer would be the same. "That's normal..."

[The Fabricator]

Check the drain plug for metallic shavings/chunks [assuming the plug IS magnetic].  

I stuck a magnet on the drain plug of my transmission.

Drain the oil into a pan with a flat floor.  Reduce the volume so when the pan is tipped it will uncover the floor.

Stand in the sun light and slosh the oil around so the floor is exposed.

Look for metal bits that will reflect the sun light.

I call it 'Panning for Gold' [mostly relevant for connecting rod bearings which have a brass underlay which looks 'golden' in sunlight.]

Be aware the transmission gears will shed some metal normally.

Some is ok, a lot is not.

Post pictures, consult experienced mechanics, etc.

Chunks on magnet definitely Not Good.

 

These transmissions WILL rattle in neutral.  The engine is actually not turning smoothly, but speeding up and slowing down with every revolution, not detectable to a human.  Like the flickering of an incandescent light bulb powered by 60 cycle electricity is not apparent.  The up-down engine speed is reflected in the gears rattling.  The gears rattle because there is some back lash built in to the gear pair meshing and there are a lot of gear pairs.

Some rattling is ok, a lot is not.  Compare to another BMW of that vintage.  Not necessary to be a 1200c..

 

If the clutch is dragging, the transmission will clunk when engaging a gear from neutral.

2 reasons for the clutch to drag.

   1.  It is   not fully disengaged because it is out of adjustment which prevents it from fully disengaging.  If not already, adjust so there is about 1/2 inch freeplay at the lever tip.  Test by engaging a gear from neutral with the engine running.

A test for clutch drag is to elevate the bike so the back tire is not touching the ground.  Engine off.  Spin the wheel in neutral sort of slowly.  Note the amount of normal resistance [due to brake drag, friction in the final drive, drive shaft, transmission gears running in 90 weight oil].  Now engage a gear, bind the clutch lever to the hand grip with a string.  Now spin the rear wheel.  Spin the wheel vigorously several revolutions in each direction to cause the friction plate to rest in a 'relaxed' position.  Now spin sort of slowly like the first test.  Should be essentially the same.

  2. The splines in the friction disc and splines on the transmission shaft are worn and do not allow the friction disc to slide freely.  Instead, the friction disc is some what stuck in position and is still turning the transmission shaft instead of the transmission shaft coasting to a stop, dragged down by 90 weight gear oil and gear friction.

  2.5.  Something else rare is happening with the clutch causing it not to disengage.

 

Some clunking when shifting is probably normal.  Up shifts are the smoothest because it is easier to match the engine speed with the transmission gear speed.  Down shifts are harder, particularly when down shifting multiple gears in a row, as coming to a full stop from speed.  I do not throttle blip every down shift to match engine/transmission speed from 6th to 1st like a high school lad play-racing on public roads.  I usually slow down to target speed then start down shifting for a stop or whatever really slower speed than 6th gear speed.  Clunks result.

[dduelin]

Getting a smooth quiet shift is gratifying to a dry clutch BMW pilot as you have found out. The dry clutch turns engine speed (same as crankshaft rpm) and has more inertia compared to the VTX which turns it's smaller and lighter oil bathed clutch through a reduction gear set. This rotational speed and inertia difference makes it harder to match up the dogs on the transmission gears when engaging them in up and down shifts. Get it not exactly right and it makes some noise. Additionally Honda builds the transmission cases very heavy, stiff, and strong as they have to support the crankshaft as well as the transmission. Our BMW has a separate transmission with a thinner, lighter casing built only strong enough to support the gear shafts. The heavy steel gears sliding and engaging inside the comparatively lightweight transmission case make noises more easily heard and felt.