I change the oil, oil filter, transmission and final drive fluids on my 2005 R1150R recently, now it's running rough and making popping sounds

[jeffjames]

I change the oil, oil filter, transmission and final drive fluids on my 2005 R1150R recently, now the engine is running rough and making popping sounds. Any suggestions on what to check or what I could have done wrong? I'm a novice at this, but followed very good instructions on how to do it. 

Much appreciated,

Jeff

[dirtrider]

13 minutes ago, jeffjames said:

I change the oil, oil filter, transmission and final drive fluids on my 2005 R1150R recently, now the engine is running rough and making popping sounds. Any suggestions on what to check or what I could have done wrong? I'm a novice at this, but followed very good instructions on how to do it. 

Much appreciated,

Jeff

Evening Jeff

 

Start by checking that your right hand throttle cable is FULLY seated in it's adjuster on the throttle body. (if it was tugged on then it's possible the cable housing could be sitting on the top of the adjuster instead of down in it) 

 

If nothing found with R/H cable then maybe remove the L/H side lower spark plug & look for signs of oil fouling. If you poured the oil in too fast it could have filled the L/H valve cover allowing some oil to get past one of the valve seals.  

 

Otherwise we probably need to know more about what you did & what you touched or moved during the service.

 

How much oil did you put in when re-filling the crankcase?

[jeffjames]

Thanks for your reply. I checked the throttle cable and is fully seated. I pulled out the LH spark plug and didn't see signs of oil, but there is definitely carbon buildup. As for what I did specifically, per a instructional video I followed:

1. Removed oil filter and filler cap.
2. Removed the oil drain plug and let drain until dry.
3. Removed the transmission plugs and FD plugs and let drain.
4. When all was drained, I put on a new oil filter and gasket. (K&N Performance KN-163)
5. replaced oil drain plug with new crush washer. 
6. Filled up with Shell Rotella T6 Synthetic Extreme Temperature 5W-40. (about 3.5 qts, although my measurements weren't precise. I basically filled while on center stand until the oil was just below the top line.) I've checked the oil multiple times since after running to operating temp., 10 min on side stand, and then 10 min on center before checking the measure. Each time the oil level comes to the center line. 
7. Replaced tran and fd drain plugs with new crush washers, and then filled the transmission with Mobil 1 Synthetic Gear Lubricant LS 75-140, and the FD with Castrol Axel Limited Slip SAE 80w-90 GL-5, closing both up with new crush washers. 

That's about it. It ran great for a few days, but today when I started it, it sounded crappy. Seemed to want to stall a couple of times.

Thanks again!

-Jeff

[Hosstage]

So the poor running did not start after changing all the fluids, but rather days later? Doesn't sound related. Maybe, but seems less likely.

[jeffjames]

That’s correct, but less than a week later. Changing air filter and plug’s tomorrow. Not sure they’re related either, but both need it. 

[Hosstage]

Check for loose battery cables, check voltage, both standing and running.

The rest of the troubleshooting is all dr's territory.

[dirtrider]

8 hours ago, jeffjames said:

That’s correct, but less than a week later. Changing air filter and plug’s tomorrow. Not sure they’re related either, but both need it. 

Morning  jeffjames

 

Did you put any gasoline in the fuel tank between the oil change & when the problem started happening?

[jeffjames]

Morning,

No, I haven’t filled it since then. 

[dirtrider]

52 minutes ago, jeffjames said:

Morning,

No, I haven’t filled it since then. 

Morning  jeff

 

OK, then this is going to be a bit difficult to diagnose until we know a lot more about the problem, how it acts, how long you need to ride it before it starts acting up, what throttle settings does it act up the most, is it ridden every day, once or twice a week, once or twice a month, etc.

 

How long have you had that motorcycle? (we need a quick short history of your ownership)

 

Also, we need you know your mechanical ability as some tests you will need to run, or do, can be a little much for a non mechanical rider.

 

Do you ride that motorcycle all year or store for the winter months?

 

If you store it for the off-season how much have you ridden it since the last storage period? (how many gallons of gasoline used since last storage?

 

Has it had a new battery installed  or had a dead battery shortly before the problem started? 

 

 A quick guess from very/very limited information would be we are dealing with an upper stick coil starting to die, or an o2 sensor causing an issue, or possibly fuel pressure/flow problem a but those are just the most obvious based on similar BMW motorcycles with a similar problem. 

 

Think of this in doctor terms, call your doctor up & tell him that you are not feeling good then without telling him any more information ask him what is wrong with you?   He will ask you a LOT of questions & possibly have you come in for some tests before even suggesting a possible cause.      Yes, same thing with your motorcycle as we can't see it, can't ride it, can't hear it run, & can't look at things over the internet, so you have to be our eyes, ears, & explain all the little details that we can't see, feel, or hear over the internet.

 

We can can guide you with pretty on-point guidance but you can't be cryptic in your reply back or we could miss important small facts that could be very important to solving the problem. 

 

So lets start  with a little history of that motorcycle,

 

How long have you owned it,

 

Has it had a dead battery since you have owned it? If so how long ago?

 

How many miles have you ridden it after the  last fuel fill up before the problem showed up?

 

How many miles have you ridden it after the oil change until the mis-fire problem showed up?

 

How far do you need to ride it after cold engine starting before the problem shows up?

 

 

 

 

 

 

[dirtrider]

Jeff,

 

The best place to start is to do a new TPS relearn so the fueling computer knows exactly where full open & full closed throttle is. 

 

At some point it needs to be done so might as well do it now & have it out of the way.

 

                                ---TPS re-learn procedure---

 

(with choke OFF)__ make sure the choke is OFF__

*Remove fuse #5 for about 5 minutes, then re-install the fuse. __ fuse #5 is 5th fuse in from the L/H (shifter side) of the motorcycle__

 

Then

*Switch on the ignition switch.   __do not start the engine__

 

Then

*Without starting the engine, fully open & fully close the throttle twice so that 
the Fueling Computer can register the throttle-valve position.

 

then

*Switch off the ignition.

 

That's it, that re-teaches the TPS where closed & open throttle is.

 

Then ride the motorcycle to see if it makes any difference in how it runs.

[jeffjames]

Thanks a bunch! I’ll give this try, and get back to you with a full detailed history of my time with this bike, which isn’t very long. 
I really appreciate all the suggestions.

cheers!