Oil Filters and Oil Filter Wrenches 2023

[gmcjetpilot]

There was an old thread that is 6 yrs old, last post 3 yrs ago. Starting a new thread about what filter you use, where you buy, cost and wrench you use.

 

My 74mm plastic wrench slipped on my new Bosch 72161 filter. I ended up buying PN# W54108   Performance Tool Cap Filter Wrench: Fits 73 mm 14 Flute. Fit perfect. I don't recall what filter I used last time. I did not try new wrench on old filter.  I know this is a common issue, oil filter wrench slip.

 

Here is a list I have collected from many sources.

I did not verify the bypass pressure (1.5 bars / 21.7psi). I assume the first 4 are within form, fit, function specs.

 

BMW 11 42 1 460 845 

Bosch 72161 , 3330

Mahle OC91 

MANN W712/38 

 

Other unverified

AC DELCO: PF-53
AMSOIL: SMF-122?
BMW 11 42 1 460 697
BMW 11 42 1 460 858
BMW 11 42 2 325 751
Bosch 3312
Caltric AH8859FL138JU
Champion Laboratories PH7025
EMGO 10-26720
Fram PH-3614
Fram PH-6063
Hastings: 157A, LF157

Hiflo HF-163

K&N KN-163 (has 17 mm sheet metal nut tack welded on bottom for wrenching, eliminating slipping oil wrench issue)
LUBER-FINER PH2835
LUBER-FINER PH7025
Mobil 1 M1 - 102
Mobil 1  M1 - 103
Motorcraft: FL-271, FL-793
NAPA #1348
Purolator ML16825
Purolator: FCO-201, PER-241
SAAB 9144445
STP PH7025
WARNER PH7025
Wix: 51348, 51785, 57936

What wrench do you use with what filter?

What filter do you recommend or like and why?

What filter do you NOT recommend?

 

[Michaelr11]

I use the Oilhead filter wrench 11 4 650 from Max BMW. Same wrench, using it for almost twenty years. It has never slipped, and never failed.

Mahle OC91, but I buy the OC91D which is identical to the OEM filter kit with the bag of new crush washers. Purchase all my filters from Rock Auto dot com. Usually buy about a year’s supply at one time.

Haven’t had any issues, but have stuck with OEM, Mahle.

 

[jacksdad63]

I had loads of trouble removing the filter when I got my1100RT. I tried 4 removers that were said to be correct size, one was totally wrong and the others either wouldn't grip the filter or just didn't fit in the engine casing.

I ended up wrapping emery tape round the removal tool that was the best fit and knocking it over the filter...then it came off very easily. The filter was some obscure brand and poorly made, so the removers just couldn't grip it, without the emery tape. 

Next time I'll get a K&N filter as they have a socket fitting on the outer centre which will ensure I can get it off without a fight.

[dirtrider]

28 minutes ago, jacksdad63 said:

I had loads of trouble removing the filter when I got my1100RT. I tried 4 removers that were said to be correct size, one was totally wrong and the others either wouldn't grip the filter or just didn't fit in the engine casing.

I ended up wrapping emery tape round the removal tool that was the best fit and knocking it over the filter...then it came off very easily. The filter was some obscure brand and poorly made, so the removers just couldn't grip it, without the emery tape. 

Next time I'll get a K&N filter as they have a socket fitting on the outer centre which will ensure I can get it off without a fight.

Afternoon jacksdad63

 

Those K&N filters are not all roses either, over the years I have had to help a number of riders remove those darn K&N filters as once they get tight that center nut can break off then they are a real pain to remove. 

 

Standard fluted filters are not at all difficult to remove, but before installing make sure that you have a proper tight fitting filter wrench, or take the filter to a local auto parts store & buy a proper fitting filter wrench so you can remove it when the time comes.  

[Joe Coastie]

Another trick I have used throughout the years on both car/trucks and bikes is to drill 3-4 holes in my cup type filter wrench

big enough for decent size sheet metal screws to be screwed into the offending filter to prevent the filter wrench from slipping.

But the easiest solution is to have the correct filter wrench for the job.

Just my 2 cents

 

[ADulay]

Have used an old NAPA strap wrench forever when revoving filters.

 

Takes every filter off of every BMW I've ever owned.

 

AD

 

 

[dirtrider]

10 minutes ago, ADulay said:

Have used an old NAPA strap wrench forever when revoving filters.

 

Takes every filter off of every BMW I've ever owned.

 

Afternoon ADulay

 

Yes, those work pretty good  (IF)  you can get the strap on the filter. 

 

But on BMW engines like the BMW 1150 that is about impossible to do as the filter is recessed. 

 

 

[ADulay]

Aha!  Well that changes everything for sure!

 

AD

[gmcjetpilot]

1 hour ago, ADulay said:

Have used an old NAPA strap wrench forever when revoving filters.

Takes every filter off of every BMW I've ever owned.

AD

So what kind wrench. With the filter recessed in a well and plastic fairing no room for my old "strap wrench". You have pic or pn?

[gmcjetpilot]

12 hours ago, Joe Coastie said:

Another trick I have used throughout the years on both car/trucks and bikes is to drill 3-4 holes in my cup type filter wrench

big enough for decent size sheet metal screws to be screwed into the offending filter to prevent the filter wrench from slipping.

But the easiest solution is to have the correct filter wrench for the job.

Just my 2 cents

 

The problem is once you install new filter, remove wrench and wood screws, it will leak oil. Ha ha.

 

Good tip but my problem was tightness of new replacement filter. 

 

My  recent thread of engine oil leak was traced to my new oil filter. Ir was leaking. I can only guess it was under torqued and got loose and started to drip about 400 miles after oil change.

 

My old wrench with with old filter was OK, not great. New filter fit? Wrench slipped. I shimmed it and got it tight enough to torque it, I thought.

 

Using a new wrench that fit with stubby socket wrench, I removed new filter to check for double gasket. It was too easy to spin off. No double gasket. So I put filter back on and torqued it, no wrench slip.  So this was good news. It explained leak. Filter was loose.

 

When it was leaking it was only a few drips, but it was getting worse I think.  A good fitting wrench is needed to get good torque. Yes I used a torque wrench and recommended torque the first time... I thought. The ill fitting wrench I think contributed to it being under torqued. May be I did not read the torque wrench right, regardless a good fitting filter wrench is important. All the work arounds (e.g., sand paper wrap around fitler) is less than ideal.

 

I just road 80 miles since I checked filter and re-torqued it. Bike parked for 6 hours. Dip free. Yeah. I will check torque in a few 100 miles.

 

My theory is oil filters are not all the same and no one size wrench fits all brands of filters that is suitable for BMW R1150RT. Also different brands of oil wrenchs are not the same. Stick with OEM brand filter and BMW wrench you are good. OR if you have a wrench and filter combo that works, stick with that combo. 

 

This design is a bit odd ball from my experience. Yes I known German Engineering is perfect. My VW automobile has oil filter housing with screw on cap, drop in filter cartridge. I can change oil and filter standing from top (with vacuum oil extraction). Clean and efficient. Doing it from bottom  is pain due to jacking car and belly pan and 20 screws. Love oil extraction on the car.

 

Other engines I serviced that use spin on filters,  I could access with strap filter wrench.  You have to have the right tool for the job as always. 

 

[RK Ryder]

13 hours ago, Joe Coastie said:

Another trick I have used throughout the years on both car/trucks and bikes is to drill 3-4 holes in my cup type filter wrench

big enough for decent size sheet metal screws to be screwed into the offending filter to prevent the filter wrench from slipping.

But the easiest solution is to have the correct filter wrench for the job.

Just my 2 cents

 

Another less intrusive way of removing  a filter that is a bit loose is line the filter wrench with a rag.